plus 3 golfer

See my reply in thread above.

It is almost certainly a bad injector. Your transmission likely not the issue. Injector replacement is straight forward and relatively easy to do. Any auto shop can do it. There's likely youtube videos on it if you can DIY. Figure $50 for part including o-rings. But you probably need to replace all o-rings on other injectors - probably $10 for o-ring kit at Auto store or $20 at dealer. Labor might be as much as 2 hours charged including diagnosis, replacement, and test drive. Some shops might try to clean injector - probably not worth it. It sounds like PCM is not shutting fuel off to the injector yet - grumbling sounds. You should be able to drive it to shop if it's not very many miles. Do you get the codes every time you drive it? If it's a clogged injector, one might be able to add injector cleaner to tank and clear the deposits. The violent shaking during regen - how fast were you going? Was CEL on?

Air inlet when charging is from the right wheel well. There's a door that opens. I believe exhaust is ducts running up the sides of the rear hatch to vents on top where the seat belts connect to body. But, I believe you also would need to remove the floor and likely other panels to get to the fan and duct work. Look on you tube for videos. Weber State has videos on all the main components of the C-Max. Look for ones on the HVB. I also believe there are some videos showing the cooling fan. There is no filter as far as I know. When the car is not charging the inlets are underneath the rear seat on the back wall.

The HVB has an air cooled not liquid cooled system. There is no radiator cooling system for the HVB. The second coolant system is for the Inverter. You are having both cooling systems flushed twice a year by the dealer? Now I now why some call them a "Stealership."

Battery Charge Control Module Performance Check Operation: DTCs P0D24 - Battery Charger Temperature Too High P0562 - System Voltage Low P0DAA - Battery Charging System Isolation Fault Monitor execution Charger active, on-plug, connected to EVSE and charging Monitor Sequence None Sensors OK Monitoring Duration 60 sec Where are you located. Could be ambient temperature is too high. Maybe too low air flow due to blockage or fan speed too low. So make sure no blockage of cooling air ducts. Could be bad SOBDM but you'll need a scan tool to monitor PIDs and run self check. See FORScan.org Get the FORScan App and an appropriated OBDII Adapter. The SOBDM is air-cooled by a cooling fan pulling in cabin or outside air (via outside air duct mode door). The SOBDM monitors its temperature internally and monitors the air inlet temperature of the High Voltage Battery via HS-CAN . If the temperature increases higher than normal, a P0D8F:00 sets and charging will be derated. This DTC is often the result of high environmental temperatures. If the temperature becomes excessive, DTC P0D24:00 sets. The SOBDM stops charging and goes to a fault status until the over-temperature condition clears. Presence of this DTC illuminates the Charger Service Required indicator in the IPC . DTC Description Fault Trigger Conditions P0D8F:00 Battery Charger Cooling System Performance: No Sub Type Information This DTC sets when the SOBDM reaches a higher than normal temperature. P0D24:00 Battery Charger Temperature Too High: No Sub Type Information This DTC sets when the SOBDM senses high internal temperature. Possible Sources High environmental temperatures SOBDM cooling fan SOBDM outside air duct mode door stuck closed SOBDM cooling fan inlet duct damaged SOBDM Visual Inspection and Diagnostic Pre-checks Inspect the SOBDM cooling fan inlet and outlet ducts for damage

Did you not know that the end of the emergency key is stuck into the slot in the fob to get mechanical advantage to turn key in lock.

If the cells are never balanced in a group, the strongest cell(s) in the group will be overcharged and the weakest cells in the group will be undercharged. Over charging cells lead to premature aging (faster loss of storage capacity). Also, as the battery pack is being discharged, the weaker cells could be discharged below their minimum operating voltage which could lead to failure. The BECM monitors voltage variances among cells in the group and will set a DTC should the voltage exceed limits. So, if cells never get balanced, my guess is that eventually a DTC would be set for voltage difference exceeded. So, until one sees these DTCs, I doubt again there is anything to do.

P0DD6 - Hybrid/EV Battery Cell Balancing Circuit "K" Stuck Off. Your High Voltage Battery consists of 84 individual lithium ion cells. The 84 cells are grouped in 14 groups of 6 cells per group. PDD6 indicates Group K was "stuck off" meaning that group of cells will not be balanced if it would be stuck off prospectively. However, since in only happened once, I wouldn't be concerned and besides there's really nothing to do. It may simply by a one-off anomaly and never happen again. Below is an excerpt from the Ford 2017 OBD System Operations Manual for HEVs on cell balancing. Cell Balancing: Individual cells can deviate over the life of the high voltage battery. The purpose of cell balancing is to equalize the individual cell charges. By balancing the cells the high voltage battery maintains top efficiency. The BECM continuously monitors individual battery cell voltages and will perform balancing automatically only when required. When balancing is performed BECM discharges individual cells with the highest voltage to match the remaining cells. Monitor execution: At a power up before contactors are closed, and two consecutive power cycles.

Here's link to 15N04. https://ford.oemdtc.com/2653/15n04-embedded-modem-replacement-2012-2016-ford-2015-lincoln

I assume when you say "cell radio updated" you mean dealer preformed CSP 15N04 which replaced the TCU (2G modem with a 3G modem TCU). If not, IIRC, then you will no longer be able to use the MyFord mobile system on your Energi as 2G service was axed. I don't recall the service date when Ford stopped 2G service. If you had 15N04 done, then you should scan all modules for DTC especially those listed below. Search under my user name for ForScan in forum and also go to FORScan.org for info on APP for smartphone and an ODDii Elm327 adapter (<$30 total for App and knockoff ELM adapter.) which will enable you to Scan all modules. DTC Chart: TCU - PHEV Diagnostics in this manual assume a certain skill level and knowledge of Ford-specific diagnostic practices. REFER to: Diagnostic Methods (100-00 General Information, Description and Operation). DTC Description Action B116C:04 External SIM Cable/SIM Card: System Internal Failure GO to Pinpoint Test AE U0100:00 Lost Communication With ECM/PCM "A": No Sub Type Information GO to Pinpoint Test AI U0140:00 Lost Communication With Body Control Module: No Sub Type Information GO to Pinpoint Test AJ U0155:00 Lost Communication With Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) Control Module: No Sub Type Information GO to Pinpoint Test AL U0253:00 Lost Communication With Accessory Protocol Interface Module: No Sub Type Information GO to Pinpoint Test AR U2100:00 Initial Configuration Not Complete: No Sub Type Information CHECK vehicle service history for recent service actions related to this module. This DTC sets due to incomplete or incorrect Programmable Module Installation (PMI) procedures. If there have been recent service actions with this module, REPEAT/PERFORM the Programmable Module Installation (PMI) procedure as directed by the diagnostic scan tool. REFER to: Module Configuration - System Operation and Component Description (418-01 Module Configuration, Description and Operation). See Programmable Module Installation (PMI). If there have been no recent service actions, INSTALL a new TCU to correct the failure to retain configuration data. REFER to: Telematic Control Unit Module (TCU) (415-00B Information and Entertainment System - General Information - Vehicles With: AM/FM/CD/SYNC/Touchscreen Display, Removal and Installation). U2101:00 Control Module Configuration Incompatible: No Sub Type Information CHECK vehicle service history for recent service actions related to this module. This DTC sets due to incomplete or incorrect Programmable Module Installation (PMI) procedures. If there have been recent service actions with this module, REPEAT/PERFORM the Programmable Module Installation (PMI) procedure as directed by the diagnostic scan tool. REFER to: Module Configuration - System Operation and Component Description (418-01 Module Configuration, Description and Operation). See Programmable Module Installation (PMI). If there have been no recent service actions, INSTALL a new TCU to correct the failure to retain configuration data. REFER to: Telematic Control Unit Module (TCU) (415-00B Information and Entertainment System - General Information - Vehicles With: AM/FM/CD/SYNC/Touchscreen Display, Removal and Installation). U3000:04 Control Module: System Internal Failure CLEAR the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). WAIT at least 10 seconds. REPEAT the self-test. If DTC U3000:04 is retrieved again, INSTALL a new TCU . REFER to: Telematic Control Unit Module (TCU) (415-00B Information and Entertainment System - General Information - Vehicles With: AM/FM/CD/SYNC/Touchscreen Display, Removal and Installation). U3000:41 Control Module: General Checksum Failure CLEAR the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). WAIT at least 10 seconds. REPEAT the self-test. If DTC U3000:41 is retrieved again, INSTALL a new TCU . REFER to: Telematic Control Unit Module (TCU) (415-00B Information and Entertainment System - General Information - Vehicles With: AM/FM/CD/SYNC/Touchscreen Display, Removal and Installation). U3000:42 Control Module: General Memory Failure CLEAR the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). WAIT at least 10 seconds. REPEAT the self-test. If DTC U3000:42 is retrieved again, INSTALL a new TCU . REFER to: Telematic Control Unit Module (TCU) (415-00B Information and Entertainment System - General Information - Vehicles With: AM/FM/CD/SYNC/Touchscreen Display, Removal and Installation). U3003:16 Battery Voltage: Circuit Voltage Below Threshold GO to Pinpoint Test AV U3003:17 Battery Voltage: Circuit Voltage Above Threshold GO to Pinpoint Test AW Symptom Charts Symptom Chart: General Audio System Diagnostics in this manual assume a certain skill level and knowledge of Ford-specific

Page 192 of 2015 Owner's Manual. 2015-C-Max-Hybrid-Energi-Owners-Manual-version-2_om_EN-US_03_2015.pdf

So, when you open door, nothing happens? No lights and so forth? Car knows when door is open. So, when you push start button and FOB is present, you should get a message if car won’t go to ready to drive. Is it third try, both times? I believe fuel shutoff reset after there is an emergency shutoff of fuel (for example, accident) may be cycling PB three times to reset. There is a recent thread on this. How long was car off after charging the times the issue happened? If it happens again, can you measure your 12 V battery voltage to eliminate flaky battery before it starts. Low battery voltage has been known to present all types of issues with modules. One of the first things that happens is HVB is connected and DCDC converter powers the 12V system.

Download the owner’s manual and it will tell you what to do. I believe all you do is cycle key or PB on / off several times in succession. Can’t recall whether foot is on or off brake when doing.

I recall reading in the Owner's Manual about it. IIRC, resetting fuel shutoff procedure requires using key / push button on / off several times to enable fuel pump operation.

I bought a microprocessor smart charger maybe 10 years ago: Schumacher 8 A / 2 A. The link below looks very similar and the specs are the same. Looks like you can get it for around $50. IIRC, it should charge a dead C-Max 43 Ah battery to around 80% SOC in about 4 hours. The remaining charge is applied by reducing current flow from the 8 A down to the 2 amps until SOC is somewhere around 90%-95%, maybe another 6-8 hours. Then for the last 5%, the charger should go into a maintenance mode which could take another 4-6 hours to reach 100%. The few times I've had a dead battery (assume virtually discharged), it took over 16 hours to fully charge. I would not buy a charger much bigger than 8 A as the "ideal" charging current is between 10%-30% of the C rate of the battery (current draw to discharge battery in one hour). So, the C rate of the C-Max battery is 43 A. Thus, the ideal charger output should be between 4 A and 12 A. Even is one has a vehicle with a larger battery, this charger will be OK for batteries as large as around 80 Ah. You can price 12 A chargers but it will likely be at least 1.5 to 2 X more than the 8A charger. It will cut the charge time down though. https://www.batterychargers.com/en/products/battery-chargers/sc1363-8a-612v-fully-automatic-battery-charger

IIRC, Ford did not allow download of 3.10. You had to go to the dealer for install. If you were still under warranty, according to Ford reps on this site, one could go to dealer and have them install 3.10 free. Some went to dealer, but dealer still wanted to charge for it. There's a thread on this. Also, Ford for my 2013 showed that my C-Max and many others were up to date with version 3.6 (or 3.8) even though 12M02 had not expired for me. So, it wouldn't surprise me now if dealer would not update to 3.10 even if you tried to pay them to do it. It's a liability issue for them. The last update Ford allowed to be downloaded for my 2013 was 3.6. Version 3.8 was out there but Ford showed I was up to date with 3.6. There was no way to download from Ford. I downloaded 3.8 from online source, installed 3.8, and Ford site then showed I had 3.8 installed and again I was up to date when 3.10 came out. I couldn't even go to a dealer and get installed free as Ford rep said. Shortly thereafter, all Ford reps left the forum and we haven't heard from them since.? It one is past warranty, 12M02 does not show up on the Ford Owners site so there would be no link to a download. I would assume this would apply to everything as why would Ford allow a download which isn't covered under warranty. It can only cost them $$ to fix if person installing screws up - liability issue.

I thought my C-Max was immune to the radio / ACM / APIM issue but had my radio locked up once about a year or so ago. Pulled fuse 79 and everything has been normal since. The fact that you haven't been driving the C-Max much in the last few months likely drained the battery to a very low State of Charge just from normal drain when car is off. Thus, it likely wouldn't take much additional drain (say from ACM) to yield the no-start condition. Again I can't say enough about getting the FORScan App and an OBDII Elm327 adapter to monitor PIDs including 12 V battery SOC, tire pressure, 12 V battery charging voltage, check / reset 12 V battery age, and other data. Four times in the last 5 years or so, I noted a loss in tire pressure in one tire of just a few PSI. Upon examination of the tire, there was a screw in the tire.

No, that’s not a charger. Look for a charger that is at least 5 A, 8 or 10.would likely charge alittle faster. Make sure it is a fully automatic, smart charger. If battery voltage was that low, it will likely take at least 10-12 hours and maybe more to reach full charge. A new Motorcraft battery has a capacity of around 43 Ah. My battery is 5 years old and it’s full capacity is now around 28 Ah or about 64% of its new capacity after I fully charge it on my battery charger. BTW, I always put tire and battery receipts in glove box so I can easily find them after 5 years.?

The 5 year warranty extension (12M02) on the APIM (Sync module) has expired for MY 2013. So, there will be nothing on the Ford site to upgrade SYNC to the latest version 3.10 which IIRC was released in Nov. 2016. You will have to download 3.10 file from another source to a USB Stick and install yourself. You will not be able to update Sync via your WiFi. If you have 3.6 or 3.8 the only reason to update might be SYNC compatibility with newer smartphones. What version do you have? See pic.

You need to charge the battery with a battery charger until the charger indicates a full charge as even driving for 1 hour will put very little charge into the battery. Go to Ford QuickLane (no appointment needed) and they will check your battery for free.

Well P0171 has lots of potential causes. There are fairly detailed tests / checks for the probable causes in the SM. I can see a dealer spending several hours running through the numerous checks in the SM and may find nothing. Assuming no other fault codes and looking at the list (which I believe may be in order of mostly likely cause): I'd eliminate bad fuel (high ethanol content) by switching stations on the next several fillups (parents haven't been using E85 pump as it is cheaper). You can check ethanol content by mixing water and the fuel, shaking and then look at the separation of the water from the fuel. Since Ethanol absorbs water, the filled amount of water will be less than the separated water. There are charts that will give an approximation of the ethanol content of the fuel and mixing volumes. I'd puts a double dose of fuel injector cleaner in the tank (maybe next two tanks). I would also think that if the issue were low fuel pressure, there would be other DTCs. To get to the PCV, the intake manifold must come off (note there is no manifold on the pic posted above).

The link In my post above shows GA does charge $200 a year for PHEVs if it gets an Alternative Fuel License Plate. Apparently EVs are licensed as an advanced fuels vehicle and must pay the $200 (also apparently $213 for 2020). The benefit of an AFLP is the vehicle can use the HOV lanes. Georgia Ga. Code Ann. §40-2-151(19)(A)(i)/HB 170 (2015) $200 annual license fee for noncommercial alternative fueled vehicles, including BEVs $300 annual license fee for commercial alternative fueled vehicle The fees will be automatically adjusted on an annual basis, as of July 1, 2016. “Alternative fueled vehicle” means any vehicle fueled solely by an alternative fuel, including electricity. The fees do not apply to PHEVs unless the vehicle owner elects an alternative fuel vehicle license plate.

So, are you saying the keys inside the FOBs do not open door? I have seen a car door opened by one person prying the top of the door open slightly and another person using a tool inserted through the opening that can reach the door handle to pull on to open.

Here’s a link (2019 article) on states with extra charges for EVs and so forth. https://www.ncsl.org/research/energy/new-fees-on-hybrid-and-electric-vehicles.aspx

This has been discussed in almost every EV, PHEV and HEV forums as states begin to implement a mechanism to capture lost tax revenue from such vehicles for using their roads. As one knows, vehicles should fairly pay for use of roads which should be independent of the type of power train the vehicle has. The most convenient way to collect for use of roads is a tax on fuel used by vehicles. But along came EVs, PHEVs, and HEVs which still use roads but are not paying there fair share for use of roads. Hence, the registration surcharge to help equalize this. So, now EVs, PHEVs, and HEVs will pay more. Fairness will depend on what ones overall FE. The extra $100 for an Energi over an HEV, would equate to using about 260 gallons of gas a year for the average car which gets around 25 mpg paying $0.385 cents per gallon tax. The C-Max Hybrid around 40 mpg. So, that's the equivalent of driving 6500 (100 X 25 / 0.385) miles per year in a standard car and 10,000 extra miles per year in a PHEV on wall power over the C-Max Hybrid. I don't know what the average PHEV gets on a charge after several years of owneship, but the Energi is likely one of the lowest factoring in HVB capacity fade. The average EPA range of all current new PHEVs is around 20.5 miles. The Ohio extra surcharge of $100 on PHEVs over an HEV seems about right, since charging once a day for say 300 days is about 6150 miles (20.5 X 300) which is equivalent to the average car driving 6500 miles. So, the state collects about same revenue from the average car and the PHEV running in EV for use of roads for the same miles driven based on the average range of PHEVs and 300 days of charging full. Yes, the issue of fairness is taxing for road use is dependent on how many miles one drives per year. Driving only 5000 miles even if all in EV is not fair. You would be paying more than the average car driving 5000 at 25 mpg. You also pay $100 for driving it as a Hybrid and paying the gas tax on the gallons used. You get screwed again because your miles driven is low. I believe the average car is driven around 13,500 miles a year. So, my guess is that if you drove your Energi 13,500 miles per per you would likely come close to paying the same for use of roads as the average car.