plus 3 golfer

I don't know how the Niro DCT and motor are connected but I suspect that the electric motor is connected to one of the two DCT gear shafts. So, the dual clutch only connects ICE to the transmission. I doubt clutch wear is an issue due to torque of the electric motor. The algorithms must make sure that ICE and the motor are spinning at the correct speeds when a clutch is engaged if using the motor and ICE at the same time. I'm not aware of any DTC that can't / wouldn't be designed to handle the torque of ICE. Why would the Niro be any different. If both ICE and the motor are supplying full torque on acceleration, the clutch would only have to handle ICE torque even though the torque to the wheels is ICE + motor. When charging the max. torque the clutch would see is the torque of ICE. Now it the electric motor is on the input side to the transmission, then one might be concerned about the torque of ICE + Motor. Here's a video of the Honda DCT and how it works. I would think the Niro would be similar.

Exactly. "Real world" FE testing has always been a challenge to "get right". I doubt most consumers understand how complicated the EPA testing and subsequent adjustment to the test results are. But physics doesn't "lie". A heavier less aerodynamic car with a larger frontal area will use more energy in FE testing than a car that weighs less, is more aerodynamic, and has a smaller frontal area. The C-Max will lose to the Niro and Iconiq virtually every time. Consumers can achieve higher FE than EPA numbers by operating each car to its maximize efficiency and can achieve worse FE numbers by operating the car less efficiently than in the EPA tests (CR testing). IMO, a hybrid vehicle will allow a consumer to operate it in a wider range of efficiency and hence ones driving style can significantly affect FE.

"Cargo area Looking at the outside of the C-Max, you might expect more cargo volume than you get. Cargo space behind the rear seats is tight, largely because the hybrid battery makes for a high load floor, even in the Hybrid. The Hybrid can fit three large suitcases in the cargo area with the 60/40-split seatbacks set up for passengers. Folding them forward leaves a flat floor for larger items. A retractable cover keeps cargo out of sight, and an assortment of bag hooks, netted compartments, and tie-down loops all add to utility. The C-Max Energi has even less cargo space, because its large hybrid battery robs much of the room. It can hold only one large, upright suitcase and a duffle bag on top of the battery. There is a small section inside the tailgate that sits flush with the sill for small items. Folding the rear seats doesn't open up any flat space that connects to the tailgate." - consumerreports What CR is saying is that one would expect more cargo space in the C-Max than exists as the C-Max is larger than the Ionic and Niro. They are not saying that the C-Max has less cargo space than the others but that the C-Max battery (I'm assuming unlike the others) has the HVB taking up cargo space (cargo floor raised up in the Hybrid and even more in the Energi). So, yes the HVB is taking up cargo space. With respect to FE, my wife can show you how to get 35 mpg in the city. :) She turns the AC set temp down, doesn't coast to stops, doesn't time lights, accelerates brisky, doesn't get good brake scores and so forth - pretty much like most drivers I observe.

A fuse tap simply plugs into the existing fuse slot. The fuse that was in the fuse slot plugs into the fuse tap. There is also a wire off the load side of the fuse tap. Thus, you have a positve wire lead to connect to the camera. You will also need to find a good ground point. There should be a ground point around the lower right hand A-pillar. You may have to remove a panel to get to it. Look for a larger black-white wire maybe bolted to a stud in the area. Also, you should be able to use any part of the frame as a good ground you can find near the BCM fuses.

"With 188 total horsepower, the regular C-Max Hybrid has adequate power for highway merging, but acceleration falls short of anything you could call brisk. Still, it feels like a rocket sled compared to its main Toyota Prius V rival. And it can run on electric power alone up to about 35 mph as long as you're easy on the throttle and even cruise at highway speeds on electric power as long as it's below 85 mph. The Hybrid posted an impressive 37 mpg overall fuel economy."-consumerreports

In the footwell under the glove box is the BCM fuses. F58 and F63 should be spare slots (may have a fuse in it but not used) where one side is hot at all times (test with volt meter). Then, find a fuse tap to plug in the spare slot. I assume you want "hot all the time" to run the cam in park mode. One word of caution: the C-Max 12 volt battery has a reserve capacity of only 60 minutes which converts to about 25 Ah. Most car batteries are around 100+ minutes which equates to about a 42+ Ah. So, the cam draw in park mode and the potential recording draw when parked could be enough to drain the C-Max battery if you don't start the car for several days. For example, if your park mode draw averages around 500 mA, you should be able to go around 70+ hours based on typical battery discharge curves before the battery discharges to about a 50% level. So, try to find a camera with very low power requirements in park mode. We are still not sure how low the C-Max battery can discharge before the car won't start (operate the modules and relays to connect the HVB to the DC/DC converter). If it is down to say 10 % state of charge, you could probably go a week.

"A maximum of 8 keys can be programmed into the vehicle."

At first, I wondered what you were smoking. Then, I adjusted my bifocals and saw the decimal point. Just so others don't think the miles are off that much. I never needed bifocals until after my cataract surgery. But it's amazing how much brighter the world is especially at night. :)

Get yourself the ForScan App and an ELM327. BTW, I just measured the DC/DC LV amps and agree with SnowStorm on the Watts at high blower speed (around 220 W). Second, the coolant fan runs at variable speeds. "The PCM monitors certain parameters (such as engine coolant temperature, vehicle speed, A/C on/off status, A/C pressure) to determine engine cooling fan needs." Slow speed driving and AC on is likely a fairly bad condition relative to required airflow through the condenser resulting in the coolant fan on at a higher draw (higher speed). If you set the HVAC to auto, the algorithms will likely efficiently cut compresser, blower, and coolant fan demand as the AC requirements diminish. Appropirate AC pressure of the refrigerant circuit is easier to maintain as the cabin cools. Bottom line again is that running the AC on short trips kills FE. One last point: for likely less than 15 cents a day in additional gas on your two 4 mile commutes each day you run your AC, you can stay "cool". Staying "cool" for me is worth it. ;) :)

I have a bluetooth and wifi ELM327. Both work with ForScan. I spent somewhere around $15 - $20 for each. Get on the ForScan forum as I believe posters have indicated which ELM327s work and some that don't. If I were going to buy one now, i'd look for one that has a toggle switch built in as that will allow one to toggle scanning between the High Speed and Medium Speed modules. At 48 psi I could feel a lot of the road but I had them that high because most of my miles are on the interstates and I have extra weight in the car. I recently got a new set of tires on the car and of course the tire shop set them at 38 psi. The ride was exceptionally smooth but I didn't like the way the car handled at that pressure. I put them up to 42 psi and hardly noticed much change in ride comfort but handling improved slightly. I then put them up to 48 psi and the ride felt bone jarring when going over potholes. So, I settled at 45 psi as a compromise on the new tires.

But your compressor is hardly working with the ambient at 78F. About the only thing the compressor is doing is likely reducing the humidity of the air since the set point is only 1F lower than ambient. I hate to beat a dead horse but the energy content of air is significantly higher at 100F than 78F. Second, you do not have to remove very much energy content of the 78F ambient incoming air and the likely higher temperature of the cabin air and cabin surfaces to a comfortable level (say a drop to 72F). But there is a significant amount of work that has to be done to get 100F ambient air and the likely higher cabin temp. (which if out in the sun could be 120F) down to 72F cabin temperature. IMO, your 4 mile trip is the issue not your fan setting which is just a small part of the equation. You need to understand the energy content in air (enthalpy) to understand how much work is really required to reduce the cabin temperature to a comfortable level. It's a lot more than most think it is. Excluding humidity of the air, about 5 times as much energy must be removed from 100F dry air than 78F dry air to get to 72F. To get to only 77F instead of 72F, it's a very high number. You also need to cool the cabin air and surface areas of the cabin which are likely higher than the ambient temperature and factor in humidity. This is why AC is such a big hit on short trips. It takes a lot of energy to get the cabin down to a comfortable level initially. Using the tips in the video that raadsel posted will help to initially cool the cabin.

So, it will not unlock / lock doors and not allow starting of vehicle? Does the other FOB work? If yes to both, my guess is you have a dead FOB (I assume you checked the new battery is good and inserted correctly) or it needs programmed. I believe you need a to go to a dealer or I believe that there are "certified shops" that Ford was required to give access to their system for programming FOBs.

Rather than take it to the dealer, spend $30 or even less and get the ForScan App for a smartphone and an ELM327 adapter to plug into the OBDII port. You can then check for DTCs and also monitor stuff like brake pressure, abs components, and virtually all data and status on the scanned control modules. IMO, ForScan is worth it just to monitor tire pressure. You can throw away your tire gauge. :)

Now, your FE is getting ridiculously too low. I assume the CEL is not lit. Does the mileage seem more normal if you drive for longer distances at higher speeds? Have you tried turning off the AC on your trip to work and home? Check the battery symbol gauge as to level when you park the car at home and the next morning when you start the car to see if there is any noticeable drop in level. Same thing when you arrive at work and leave to go home. Is the battery symbol gauge showing charging and discharging arrows when driving? Put the climate screen up on MY VIEW and watch the climate gauge with AC on. It should start very high maybe 2-4 bars initially and should drop likely below the first bar after the interior begins to cool down. You may need to make a trip to the dealer and let them know of the poor mileage. They can check for DTCs that don't set off the CEL and monitor other data when the car is running.

I think it's more deformation / deflection of the asphalt rather than sticking to the tire. Like the truck ruts you see sometimes in asphalt. I think it was in the same study that I can't find, where the author believes the deformation causes contact patch of the tire to increase when the asphalt deforms from weight and heat and hence rolling resistance increases. Anyways, I don't think this is contributing much to why the OP is getting significantly less FE at 100F+ than at a lower temp. When I lived in Phoenix I found that when I wanted to get the highest FE, I tested in very high heat 100F with no AC, windows cracked, and took side streets which have at minimum a top layer of asphalt. Here's the link where ambient was approaching 100F and it was early afternoon with full sun. Over 67 mpg. I don't think my tires were sticking to the asphalt or deforming the alphalt payment much. ;) Phoenix, Austin, Houston would likely have asphalt specs for high ambient temps. Otherwise, the roads would continually form ruts from vehiclular traffic. I think maybe we are thinking of the old days ('60s) when many roads were tar and chips. When you walked across one of these roads on a hot day, the tar would stick to ones shoes, you'd track it into the house, and get yelled at by your mother. :)

I couldn't find the study I was refering to but found this info below. It appears the higher temperature up to a point makes the tire easier to flex and thus reduces the energy loss associated with tire flexing when rolling. Also, there appears to be virtually no difference between asphalt and concrete in rolling resistance if the surface smootness is the same. The one study refered to IIRC suggested less than 1% increase in rolling resistance due to pavement deformation (asphalt vs concrete). Bottom line is that rolling resistance due to ambient temperature increase should likely not go up especially since the 4 mile commute is city traffic and likely goes down. 1) Temperature: with both solid and pneumatic tires, rolling resistance has been found to decrease as temperature increases (within a range of temperatures: i.e. there is an upper limit to this effect). For a rise in temperature from 30°C to 70°C the rolling resistance decreased by 20-25%. http://www.ajer.org/papers/v3(7)/R037141148.pdf 2) Overall, the literature review indicated that a smoother road can decrease fuel consumption by decreasing the vibrations of the tire and suspension. However, pavement deformation and energy loss will vary based on the scale of roughness, vehicle speed and vehicle type. Pavement deforms when it comes in contact with the tire and, therefore, dissipates some energy. Figure 1 Schematic of the effect of aggregate on different scales of texture. While one study suggested that a stiffer pavement may be best for this reason, other references concluded that most deformation and energy loss is associated with tire rather than with pavement deflection. ... > Pavement stiffness does not appear to have a significant effect on the rolling resistance or fuel economy. > Rolling resistance on concrete or asphalt pavements with the same surface texture should be almost identical. https://www.eng.auburn.edu/research/centers/ncat/files/research-synopses/rolling-resistance.pdf

Also, the MAX A/C button initiates recirculation automatically. I don't use MAX A/C as I find normal A/C cools down the car quick enough for me and I can't stand the air and blower noise at MAX A/C. Since I'm moving back to AZ in a few months, I'll test MAX A/C to see what the power demand is compared to normal A/C at high ambient temps. Although the demand is likely significantly higher at MAX A/C than normal, the total energy requirements may not be that much higher assuming efficiency stays about the same at normal and MAX A/C.

A properly maintained modern vehicle will always run with a proper fuel / air mixture not lean or rich because the PCM is monitoring the variables and continually adjusting the mixture to a stoichio mixture. Humidity will affect the AC demand. That's why it's hard to compare AC usage / affect on FE in Houston vs Phoenix vs Austin even though the ambient temp. may be the same. What's common though is that short commutes affect FE more than long commutes when using AC.

Forget about engine power. What you want to run is the correct mixture of gas and O2. This goal is to burn all the gas. You may loose power on hard acceleration with less dense air but generally the intake can handle the additional flow (to get more O2 to mix with the gas so power is not lost). The goal is always a stoichiometric mixture. Hence, the various sensors like mass flow sensor and the O2 sensor, barometric pressure sensor and so forth. Yes, you can calcalute the enthalphy of the air at a given pressure, humidity and temperature and see how much energy is required to change enthalpy (lower temp. and reduce humidity). I have also done this to get a handle on AC use in AZ. Yes, more humid air requires more energy to cool (heat of condensation same as heat of vaporization except opposite sign). Again it's not a hard calculation to make but we don't know the exact conditions that we are comparing. All you can do is make assumptions based on ones conditions. Of course, you will get different results depending on the assumptions made. Engines are generally more efficient at higher operating temperatures.

In 100F temps, your FE will take a big hit from using AC for your 4 mile compute. Let's assume your AC demand averages 2.0 kW for the 4 miles and it takes you 10 minutes. The AC used 0.333 kWh. Let's assume that the overall efficiency to produce that 0.333 kWh is 33.3%. So, the fuel used is (0.333/0.333) = 1.0 kWh. There's 3412 Btu in one kWh. So, the Btus of gas used would be about 3412 Btu. One gallon of gas has about 115,000 Btus. So, about 0.03 gallons of gas was burned for the AC. If you normally get 40 mpg for the 4 miles, you would uses about 0.1 gallons of gas. So, using AC you use 0.13 gallons of fuel to cover 4 miles. Your FE would then be 30.8 mpg not 40 mpg. Now, the uphill home requires more fuel and hence your 30.8 mpg drops to 25 mpg. Once the cabin cools down, the AC demand will likely drop below 0.4 kW. So, your gas consumption to run the AC would fall considerable and the hit to FE would be significantly less. Instead of turning off EV+ which won't help, turn off your AC for the 4 mile trip. :)

High humidity also helps mileage (water vapor molecules weigh less than N2 and O2). So, dry air is more dense than humid air and cold air is more dense than hot air. So, I don't know off hand where or if the crossover point is reached. It certainly can be calculated over a range of temperatures and humidity. And of course, higher temperature generally results in lower humidity. In PHX you can start out in early morning at 90F+ and 35% humidity and by afternoon the temp is 110F with single digit humidity. So, it's possible under the right conditions that FE might not continue to go up with temp. because humidity is falling. On road surfaces, I believe the alphalt softens and thus, the coefficient of friction increases. I don't believe it's the tire softening or "tar" per se. I believe a while back I linked to a study / paper on tire rolling resistance on various surfaces. I'll see if I can find it.

My experience from 3 yrs in Phoenix with my C-MAX at 100F+ is that AC will hit FE hard on very short trips. This is because the AC compresser load will be between 4+ and 2 kW for 2-4 miles for the initial cool down of the cabin. What is your normal FE compared to the 32 mpg? Also on short trips, if your state of charge of the high voltage battery is low to start and higher when the trip ends, FE will take a big hit. What are the length of the trips that give you 32 and 25 mpg?

How did the car get up to speed in the first place (neglecting external forces like a very, very strong tailwind ;) :) ​). by using ICE or energy from the HVB. How did HVB get charged? Regeneration simply captures some of the energy of the moving vehicle which energy was at some time provided by ICE. How did the car get to the top of the hill? by energy provided by ICE.

Fog lamps (front lamps below the head lights) are standard on the 2013 SEL. Anyways with obob's post about Amazon shipping, It would only be about $30 for the part and $10 shipping. Not bad IMO. But the windhield, if not available in Euorpe, could be expensive to ship as the windshields are very large and heavy. What's the cost of auto insurance? If body panels, hybrid parts, windshields are not readily available for a model one is insuring, does the insurer add a premium for such vehicles?

I'd reconsider. For me: windshields = 2; Fog light = 1, bulbs = 0, Hybrid parts can fail? Are euro body parts interchangeable? Consumables are nickel and dime compared to these.