plus 3 golfer

Filtered air (plus some exhaust gas via the EGR valve) flows through the throttle body. There is no fuel injection on the intake side of the throttle body. So, either the throttle body was contamined when built / assembled or contamination (dirt / carbon from EGR maybe) is entering the throttle body stepper motor / electrical connection due to a manufacturing defect. Ford doesn't tell us. All Ford says in 16B32 attached below is " the electronic throttle body internal motor contacts may develop contamination resulting in increased electrical resistance." Can you scan and post 17B28 as it is not readily available on the internet yet to compare with 16B32.. If I were you, I'd get it done as Ford can discontinue a CSP at anytime and you may have to pay for a new throttle body if it fails if you are out of warranty. Like I said in my previous post 17B28 sounds like 16b32 (thanks to Bill-N) attached below. 16B32 exired on 9/30/2017 and did not include the C-Max. The problem identified in both programs apparently is contamination of the throttle body. The fix in both programs is to replace the throttle body. From the service manual, it appears that the mode of operation if the throttle position is deemed incorrect not controllable is as below: RPM Guard With Default Throttle In this mode, the throttle plate control is disabled due to the loss of throttle position, the throttle plate position controller, or other major electronic throttle body concern. Depending on the concern detected, the throttle plate is either commanded to the default (limp home) position or the motor is disabled and the spring returns the throttle plate to the default (limp home) position. A maximum allowed RPM is determined based on the position of the accelerator pedal (RPM Guard). If the actual RPM exceeds this limit, spark and fuel are used to bring the RPM below the limit. The powertrain malfunction indicator (wrench) and the MIL illuminate in this mode and a DTC for an ETC related component is set. EGR and VCT outputs are set to default values and cruise control is disabled. 16b32.pdf

LOL, I also think the Ford reps on the site left a long time ago. I agree with you, I believe we are on your own on Sync 2. Many of us had to install Sync 2 V 3.10 (which I believe is the last update) as we could not get the version directly from the Ford site. What version do you have? I don't recall ever seeing that Ford has "officially" abandoned Sync 2. But there is a Class Action Suit that was given status by the court with respect to MFT, Sync 2 although I haven't seen anything lately on the status (within the last year or so) on what is going on. Who knows maybe someday we'll get a check from Ford. :) The class-action lawsuit goes to trial in California in April 2017. In a statement, lead plaintiff’s attorney Steve Berman claimed, “At best, what consumers paid for amounted to a pricey inconvenience, failing to live up to even the most basic of Ford’s gilded promises. But in the worst scenarios, the failed MyFord Touch system’s defects can be a hazardous distraction to drivers.”

When my rear washer wasn't working, my first thought was plugged nozzle, leaking connection, and last a bad rear pump. Then when I looked at the manual, I was surprised to see only one pump. I recall filling the reservoir up because I couldn't see any fluid not because I thought the level was low as the front washer worked. I never suspected my fluid was too low for the rear to work. I then started looking for obvious fluid leaks. I don't recall how many times I operated the rear looking for the leaks but then fluid starting flowing out the rear. I assume that the long rear line was empty and took many activations to fill the line. After reading your post, I looked at the complete operation of the washers in the manual and looked at parts diagrams and noted the reservoir had a level sensor. Hence, it makes sense that when the sensor triggers a low level, the BCM likely stops activation of the rear washer to save fluid for the front. Now, I also wonder if the sensor is more than a simple float switch.

Do you have a source for this? NBC? :) I think you are correct on the actions of the rear and front washer but for the wrong reason. There is one pickup tube in the washer tank feeding a bi-directional pump controlled by the BCM. However, there is a level sensor. My guess is that when the level triggers the sensor, the BCM may not activate the rear washer but only the front washer. I seem to recall a few years ago, my rear washer didn't work but the front did. I thought the rear might be clogged / line leaking, then checked the service manual, added fluid, began troubleshooting, and then the rear srarted working. I'm trying to remember whether I ever got a low washer reservoir message. Anyone ever get a low washer message?

Here's the post showing the installation and the post below gives the part number.

A couple comments: 1. Do you have an SE or SEL? 2. Are you saying the fan shuts down or the fan is still on but no / little air is coming out of the vents? 3. The next time it happens shut the car off and start up with Engineering Test Mode in the left hand display. There are posts telling how to enable ETM. Scroll to the screen that shows diagnostic trouble codes and take a pic of it and post if it has stored codes. 4. Better yet spend $30 or so and get the Forscan App for a smartphone and ELM 327 to scan modules for DTCs. IMO, forscan is worth it just to monitor / set tire pressure and view other data. 5. If the fan is still running and little to no air is coming from the vents, buy a temp sensor and replace it. I'm fairly sure I posted pics on replacing it. It's accessed from the driver's side center console foot well area. IIRC, you pop off a small cover on the console and it is easily changed.

Based on your description it is likely two of these three modules: SOBDCM (hybrid control module like the PCM and controls the cabin aux. heater for the Energi), SOBDM (controls the charging of the HVB), and the BECM (Battery Energy Control Module used to determine charging state, set points and so forth). My guess is that you have about $2000 in the two control modules and based on your description of the modules the first two modules listed (not the BECM) failed. The rest of the $3400 should be labor including diagnostics, installation, programming, and testing. If not covered under warranty, dealer may be able to get the modules from a salvage yard for significantly less (maybe $1500 less). The warranty on the salvaged parts is likely only 90 days and IIRC, should be 2 years on new dealer installed parts. Below is what the Hybrid warranty shows is covered which includes the highligted in red BECM but not the other two modules. (4) Your vehicle’s unique hybrid / electric components are covered during the Hybrid / Electric Unique Component Coverage, which lasts for eight years or 100,000 miles, whichever occurs first. • The following hybrid parts are covered during this extended coverage period: high-voltage battery, hybrid continuously variable transmission, Inverter System Controller (ISC), DC/DC converter, high-voltage battery connector, battery pack fan assembly, thermistor probe, Hybrid Battery Pack Sensor Module (HBPSM), Battery Energy Control Module (BECM), and the PHEV onboard charger. • The following Focus Electric unique parts are covered during this extended coverage period: high-voltage battery packs, high voltage charger, DC/DC convertor, Electric Drive Module Assembly (includes electric motor and gearbox), trans range and charge cord.

Sometimes you have to dig deeper and go to the sub categories: http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/PartDetail.aspx?n=vZA%2b7430QL6oxbQVdyoowg%3d%3d&id=429985479&m=2&search=true&year=2016&make=Ford&model=C-Max

Sounds like Ford has a bad batch of motors as this sounds very similar to a CSP for maybe a dozen or so other 2015/16 models. In that CSP, the motor contacts can develop high resistance causing the car to go into a "failure" mode where speed is limited. My guess is the throttle body comes as a complete assembly (you can look at fordparts.com) and thus no disassembly. It doesn't take long to remove the cover and IIRC remove the throttle body. I think if you can get the first appointment of the day, you'd be in and out in an hour or so. The problem with later appointments is the shop gets "backed up" and can't get to your car on time.

The GPSM provides the heading (compass direction) to the Instrument Panel Cluster for display.

Attached is the related TSB. This TSB has been around for quite some time and available on the internet. IMO, you should only go to the dealer if you are under warranty as the adjustment is simple. Why spend $120 at the dealer for a 5-10 minute easy fix. 14-0070.pdf

To answer the OP's question: it depends on conditions - ambient temperature, humidity, set point temperature, blower speed, whether the radiator fan runs (to get airflow through condenser). Based on likely hotter but less humid conditons and daytime sun when we'd leave our dog in a locked car for an hour or so with the AC on, I'd say ICE will start between 2-4 times an hour for just a few minutes each time ICE starts. You will only be using about 15% of the HVB capacity during the charge / discharge cycle. I don't know of any way you can force a higher use of the HVB (charge to a higher State Of Charge) as the algorithms won't run ICE just to increase SOC much past 50% when there is no driving load demands to be met. Also, just so you know, the battery display symbol does not show actual SOC of the HVB but the "usable range" of SOC - between about 30% and 70% when the very tip of the symbol shows filled.

LOL. Yes, you are right: "start" (without further explanation) doesn't fit our cars especially for new C-Max owners. I think most of our regular forum members understand how our C-Max works with respect to "starting" and knows what others mean when they are posting about "starting" the C-Max based on the context of the thread / post. But technically, for our cars "start" means getting the green "ready to drive" message. Our car is "started" if we see this message. Otherwise, our car is not "started". "Starting" (shown below) from the Owner's Manual is what we need to point all new owner's to read as a primer when discussing a "no start" condition. Did they get the "ready to drive" message. :)

I agree with you. I think Bill-N is simply looking at where the power originates from to turn ICE so it fires up. Also, Sonya clearly believed that since the Energi showed a full charge the car should start. But the starting process begins with the pushbutton and a "good" 12V battery. Anyways, I changed my previous post for clarity. Semantics - start = a beginning of an action.

Correct but the original poster believes that if the HVB symbol shows that the HBV is charged the car should start. I changed my post for clarity.

Sonya, you have two batteries in your car. There is the normal 12 volt battery like in all non - hybrid cars. There is also the high voltage battery (HVB) used for electric operation. The charge you are looking at on the dash battery symbol is the HVB charge. The 12 V battery is required to start the car so that the HBV can be connected to the HV electronics. What happens when you push the start button or turn the key is that the electronic modules (which all use the 12 Volt battery for their power) are activated and allow the car to start. If the 12 V battery is failing, the electronic modules may not have enough voltage to operate and nothing happens. Do you have a volt meter to measure your battery voltage? if you do, you can open the hood and look for the positive post (has red cap on it) and a negative uncoverd metal post sticking up near the positive post which are both located to the driver's side about half way back. Measure the voltage when it won't start. It's likely too low for the car to start. The question though: is it a failing battery (very likely) or is something, like a module not turning off, draining the 12V battery when the car is off (unlikely).

I looked at the service manual and this is how one removes the fuel pump: 1) Depressurize fuel system - disconnect electrical connector to fuel pump, start ICE and run until it stalls, try to start ICE again to ensure system is depressureized. 2) Drain fuel tank - insert tube down filler pipe and drain as much fuel as practicable. 3) There appears to be some sort of disconnection of the filler pipe to the tank but I can't tell what from the pics. They show what looks to be pliers and a clamp that connects the filler tube to the tank. 4) There are several shields and a cross member underneath that need removed and the exhaust system apparently needs to be lowered by removing hangers and it appears it also has to be disconnected from the converter, and another shield removed. 5) Fuel tank can now be lowered using a jack for support and removing several screws. 6) The fuel pump and sender unit can now be serviced. It's hard to tell how difficult the job is from the pics but the car will likely have to be lifted a good bit to do the job (perhaps more than just jack stands). This is one job I'd leave to a mechanic with a lift. :)

Autozone should also test it for free but they may not have a replacement battery for it.

Do you have an Energi? If not, you likely have had 15B04 done since it is not shown etis. https://ford.oemdtc.com/1696/15b04-12-volt-battery-test-and-module-software-update-2013-2014-ford-c-max. I think Ford dealers will check battery for free. They usually have coupon specials on price and free battery check. At the same time they should check to see if all recalls and CSPs were done.

The fuel pump mounts to the top of the tank and is thus inside the tank. To get to the fuel pump one must drop the tank and then one can remove the fuel pump. The reference to "located under the right rear seat" simple means that's where you will hear the sound coming from not how one gets to the fuel pump. If you look under your car from just in front of the right rear wheel well, you can see the bottom of the tank (which is pretty much under the right rear seat). :) The fuel system pressure needs to be relieved and the tank drained before removing the tank to get to the pump.

Sonya, welcome. A couple of things: 1) Did you but it from a Ford dealer? 2) Did you leave anything on like the lights or anything plugges into the 12 Volt outlet? 3) If the 12 V battery is original, it could need replaced as it is likely approaching 5 years old. 4) 2013 MY did have 12 V issues. There is a TSB to "fix" the potential causes. You need to make sure your car is up to date with respect to recalls and customer satisfaction programs.

Yes, there's a weep hole on each side. I've got 95k miles on mine.

Most significant part of the link is it only adds 50 jobs.

marlidog, welcome. The difference can likely be explained but you have given us virtually no information about your two C-Maxes. In addition to what obob asked for, can you provide the miles on both cars, model years, mpg you are getting on both cars, miles on the tires, brand and model of tires, pressure in the tires. My suggestion is to get someone to follow you on a 20 mile round trip drive in your other C-Max. Reset the trip meters in both at the start and report the fuel economy shown on the trip meters at the end of the 20 mile loop.

The hybrid battery is connected to the electronics upon startup and remains connected. There is no switching of power components on / off via relays. The inverter, the dc/dc converter, the power to the electric motors, and so forth are always connected. Torque control is seamless during ramping up / down of ICE. That's the beauty of the planetary gear set that connects ICE, the electric motors, and the drive shafts. If the noise is in the rear, then the transmission and associated components (mechanical and electrical) are not the source of the noise. The only things I can think of in the rear that are related to ICE ramping up quickly that might cause a thump are the fuel pump and exhaust system. The fuel pump is operated as a dual speed fuel pump. Upon startup, you should hear the fuel pump run for about one second. It's located under the right rear seat. When ICE is not rotating, the fuel pump is off. Under normal ICE operation, the pump runs at a slower speed. My guess is that when high ICE torque is required, the pump runs at high speed. You may be hearing the pump coming on from an off position to a high speed position. Perhaps it's failing.