plus 3 golfer

Here's a link to my post several months ago. "In the documents, Ford engineers fret about the system’s many flaws, calling it “unsaleable.” They describe a later update — cobbled together with the help of Microsoft engineers in the wake of very harsh reviews — as a “polished turd.... The 2012 update didn’t win many fans in the engineering department either. In addition to the “turd” comment, another engineer called it “lipstick on a pig.” I haven't got a letter yet but why would you opt out and forgo a possible monetary settlement? IMO a settlement, if any, will be monetary. What if it goes Ford's way? They've basically stopped supporting Sync 2 now. Don't expect any additional updates past V 3.10 (about 2 years old). 12M02 is a 5 year extended warranty on MFT Sync which (in my case will expire in 2 days) provides for "free" software installation by dealer of V 3.10.

It sounds like a change in torque may be causing the clunk and jerk. Check your CV joints. Look for signs grease indicating a bad CV boot. Also, like I said above, it could be engine / transmission mounts or suspension issues like failed bushing. Have someone shift back and forth releasing brake to start movement while you look for any abnormal engine movement under the hood (from the side of the car) and where the clunk is coming from. So, to me it sounds like when you release the brake and torque is applied, a part has "excessive movement" causing the clunk and jerk. My guess: the issue is external to the transmission.

Not sure what you mean by "when you're shifting between gears". Shifting between P - R, P - D, or something else? Shifting between EV and ICE operation? Did you demonstrate the "clunk" to the dealer? Maybe it's a suspension or drivetrain mount issue.

Are you sure ETM wasn't up as it will be "hidden" behind other screens. When ETM comes up you should see only the letters ET in the upper left ( the rest of the ETM is behind other screens. To clear the front screens, one needs to push the OK button. Also, if ETM was really not coming up, then you may have an issue with the IPC or other module and the HVAC blower motor working intermittently is symptom of the issue not the cause. I don't recall any reports of the blower motor failing.

Also, are you the orginal owner? If no, is this the first winter you are driving the car? If yes, there were software updates (13B07) that enhanced engine warmup time and FE and thus how quickly the coolant would warm up. If no, I assume you didn't have the problem in previous winters. Do you know if 13B07 was done as it expired in 2014? I never drove my car in cold weather prior to having 13B07 done in the summer of 2013 so I don't know how the HVAC performed prior to 13B07 in the winter.

Also, post any DTC that are on the DTC screen in ETM.

USE ETM to monitor coolant temperature as you will see a digital readout of temperature in ETM rather than the gauge in my view. Scroll through the screens to find coolant temperature. You can also start the car (ready to drive mode) with the ETM display up while you drive and note at what temperature the fan comes on.

Get the VIN and date of manufacture. Go here and look up the VIN for outstanding FSAs or recalls. Go here as "Thumping" could be an "expensive" issue once out of warranty.

"Owners in Arizona, Florida, Nevada, New Mexico, Oregon, Texas, and Utah were notified in January, 2017. Owners in the other 43 states will be notified in phases beginning in Second Quarter 2017. Dealers should repair any affected vehicles that arrive at their dealerships, whether or not the customer has received a letter." Maybe the issue is the red highlighted text - too many repairs with no letter and hence such repairs "used up" parts for AZ owners as AZ was suppose to be in the first wave as heat is a contributing factor of failure.

Disconnect the negative cable from the chassis which is the black cable in the upper left corner of the pic. The negative cable is attached to the chassis with a bolt located to the left of the red positive terminal of the battery. The bolt is not shown in the pic.

Download the 2013 owner's manual and look at the fuse layouts and descriptions. There's are two fuses. ;) :) There are, IIRC, three locations for the fuses.

I believe there should be a DTC for the message. Is there any listed on the service order? The SO should describe what the dealer did / found on the issue. Evidently, the modules are not resetting without turning car off / on. It may be designed that way. Make Sync inoperable for a camera failure so customer becomes frustrated and ops for a new camera rather than restarting after every reverse to enable Sync. :) What version of Sync is installed? Make sure you have the latest version. Dealer will install latest version free per 12M02. Unfortunately, if a non-warranty item (camera) causes a warranted item (APIM) to malfunction (not reset when the car is taken out of reverse), 12M02 would not apply. How does an owner determine what is causing the problem - the camera or the processing of the video by the APIM without replacing the camera or the APIM and testing.

The BCM communicates with the camera module via a Local Interconnect Network line and the video from the camera goes to the APIM module (aka the SYNC module).. Since you got the message that the camera is unavailable, perhaps the BCM got a response from the camera module that the camera system failed or got no response from the camera module. It's also possible that the response from the camera module was OK but the APIM did not detect a video signal from the camera and hence the message. I assume the touch screen starts working again after one shifts out of Reverse?

There are many inputs to the algorithm which determines the operation of the radiator fan. It is also a variable speed motor. One other point on coolant temperature. The monitoring of closed loop ICE operation has an exit point at 235F coolant temperature. So, ICE is likely not operating at an ideal fuel/air mixture resulting in more emissions and lower ICE efficiency above 235F. There are certainly unknowns with respect to using grille covers. I very rarely used them in for the two years we spent in eastern TN and virtually never in the Phoenix area even though we see morning lows below between 35 - 50F very frequently in the winter in the Phoenix area. It is simply not "cold enough" for me to spend the time to mount / remove on a frequent basis for the benefit. Of course, hypermilers will look at it differently. Only you can decide what makes you feel "good".

If you don't know, there is no sensor to measure coolant temperature. Coolant temperature is inferred from the Cylinder Head Temperature sensor data. IIRC, when I monitored both coolant temperature and CHT, coolant temperature = CHT less 5-7*F under normal operating temperatures. If CHT > 270F, DTC P1299 is thrown, the MIL illuminates immediately and fuel shut-off strategy is activated to reduce engine and coolant temperature. So, there is monitoring and controls in place to protect the engine from damage due to high engine temperature. 231F coolant temp. = about 238F CHT. 238 F is a long ways away from 270F. So, I doubt one would ever get to 270F unless there was loss of coolant or coolant circulation. I've seen coolant temps as high as about 235 -238 F going up steeper, long hills in the West at 75+ mph with temps in the 40's.

One more thought: I assume that the BCM monitors the light circuits and there may be a DTC. Check for DTCs in Engineering test mode. When I have time I'll look at what DTCs are avaiable in the BCM. Hopefully it's the bulbs. It's a pain to troubleshoot wiring. If it's not the bulbs, I would think that it would take less than an hour for a tech to pull the connector from the BCM and check the continuity of the wiring from the BCM connector to the light fixtures.

There are no fuses for individual light circuits. The BCM controls the park lights, turn signals, reverse lights and so forth. Since other lights work the BCM fuses are good. Given that the lights are out on the tailgate (separate fixture and wiring) and also on rear fender (separate fixture and wiring), the single contingency fault to take out both lights exists from the splice where the two park light circuits split from the single wire connected to the BCM that controls the right rear park lights or the BCM is bad. It's also possible that you had a double fault for example both lamps failed around the same time so you didn't notice that one lamp was out. It's also possible that the two wires from the splice to the fixtures were damaged at different times or the same time. IMO, the least unlikely double contingency condition would be that the two fixtures failed around the same time. Has anyone done work under the dash, or in the fixture / tailgate area that could have damaged something (likely wiring)? I'd first make sure the bulbs are good. If good, then I'd find the splice as IMO that would be a likely point of failure. Check splice and continuity from the splice to fixtures with an ohmeter. Attached are two diagrams from the service manual.

Change the batteries in the key FOBs. Look in the owner's manual or on YouTube. You can also take your FOBs to a Battery Plus store and have them change the batteries.

The Ford "fixes" were several CSPs /TSBs that you've likely had done. I don't recall all of them but after the last Ford CSP 15b04, the reports of dead batteries / no start declined significantly. I note that 15b04 expired in May 2016. My guess is you have an intermittent, abnormal low or high resistance in wiring / connectors / modules / sensors that prevent certain modules from going to "sleep" when the car is off. After so many hours, the "awake" modules drain the 12V battery to a SOC insufficent for the modules to operate (voltage is too low) when trying to start the car. Some of those with the "dead battery" issue had specific modules replaced and one had the module that attaches to the battery post replaced (can't recall the name, but it has a fuse and metering sensors for the 12V battery monitoring algorithm). My guess in these "rare" instances where the dealer found a specific cause, the conditon was a "hard" failure which a good tech could isolate. But, intermittent issues are very difficult to isolate as there are likely no DTCs stored and are virtually impossible to troubleshoot when the modules are active and the abnormal condition doesn't exist. I assume the "lemon law" in your state is no longer applicable to your car.

Just checked my records and I've put 13.35 gallons in. I never "try" to run out of fuel ... anymore. It's only happened twice to me a long, long time ago (not C-Max) when climbing longer steeper hills on the interstate. Also, IIRC, a few have run several miles (maybe 15 or so) after "zero miles to empty". I believe you can get near 14 gallons in the tank. Fuel tank usable "rated" size (13.5 gallons in the C-Max Hybrid) is less than "fill up" size. There is a standard for tank size rating. For example, filler pipe, vapor air space at top of tank, fuel lines, low area at bottom where fuel pump usually sits and can't be reached by the pump are excluded from the volume calculation of rated tank capacity. In addition, if you fill the tank beyond the pump shut off, fuel can enter the EVAP system. Filling when not on flat ground, can result in fuel in the air space. So, if you want to test the tank size, drive until you run out of gas making sure gas stations are near and where the ground is level as you will be able to drive in EV for likely 1/4 - 1/2 mile at low speeds once ICE stops running. Maybe you can set the fillup record! :)

I initially had the same thoughts. But, what we don't know is how the 12V battery is cycled. Is it charged to near 100% and allowed to deplete down to 20% when car is off, is it cycled to limits like our HVB from about 70% max. charge to 30+% minimum depletion when car is off or something else. So, life of the 12V battery may be different than the HVB.

IMO, those kits are primarilty for aesthetics just like the wheels in the pic. ;) Look at the marketing hype. There's no spec data on aero improvement just "Ultimate in design and aerodynamics" which to me means the kit has the lowest practical aero drag for looks not that the kit reduces total aero drag on the car. They wouldn't sell if they were ugly. :)

No super cap. "The 2017 Hyundai Ioniq Hybrid is the first modern production car without a traditional 12-volt battery. Instead, engineers left open space at the furthest left section of the hybrid’s main battery housing, and installed a lithium-ion starter battery inside. One engineer likened this battery setup to a computer hard drive with two partitions: They operate in the same box with the same materials, but function as separate units. (The Kia Niro uses similar battery hardware)." My guess is that the 12 V reset button simply allows the HBV to "jump start" the small battery through a DC/DC converter. Once the car is turned on a converter would supply power to the 12 V system and recharge the 12 V lithium ion battery. This though begs the question: how long is the small battery going to last?? and how much to replace the modules that make up the 12 V battery.

I've used this 3M tape on many outdoor projects. Never had an issue with it holding up in high heat, wind, and sun. Look at the link for the product details, specs, uses, surface prep, and so forth. IMO, surface prep is critical and on rougher / uneven surfaces, pushing the tape into the surface with sufficient force. There are charts / tables showing adhesion when exposed to various contaminants / solvents like gasoline and showing tensile and shear strength. I bought a 1/2" large roll (about 100 feet) on ebay about 3 years ago and unused tape (shelf life) is still good.

Attached is the safety recall attachment showing the latch which is part of the assembly mentioned in above posts. From what I can see, a tech should not have "damaged" the "bracket" but from the service manual it appears the latch is attached to the reinforcement bracket and the exterior door handles must be removed to service the part. But who knows what an inexperienced tech may have done. ;) I'd certainly argue that your issue was more than likely (99.9%) due to negligence on the part of the tech replacing the latch. The bracket was likely cracked during removal / installation and took many open / close cycles before the handle broke loose. I've also attached a few pics from the service manual. R16S303S4.pdf