cr08

First thing at that mileage would be to check with the owner to see if they've had transmission work done. The average mileage where problems start to crop up seems to be between 80 and 100k miles. Looks like both of the vehicles you've linked are hybrid models and not the Energi's. These usually don't have battery longevity issues compared to the Energi as they aren't stressed as much. There's also no way to really check battery capacity with them either. So ultimately the transmission's going to be the big thing. 12v battery issues are another potential one, though this is going to be much less of a pain to deal with than the transmission and isn't an absolute. It's just a toss of the dice and also kinda depends on if the owner's done any work to correct it already. There were many software updates made to various modules over the years to correct 12v battery drain issues. You can ask the owner if they've had any issues needing jump started regularly and if any diagnoses or dealership work has been done to fix that. That all said, just checking KBB and private party puts $9k at the very top end of the 'Excellent' condition scale for those two so take that as you will. As an FYI: A transmission replacement is going to run you between $3000 and $5000 on average. If it was me buying: A 2013 with that high of mileage and no transmission work, I'd seriously haggle down the price given the potential repair work down the road. Talking $13-$14k all in worst case scenario with a transmission replacement, you should be able to find a (late) 2015 or newer easy and those don't have the same transmission issues. Late 2015 builds and newer are trouble free. As an example, for a 2016 hybrid SEL with a conservative 80k miles in Very Good condition they're showing $12k-$14k at the high end.

Another thing I just thought of more as an additional test point: If yours has the automatic wipers, you can try disconnecting the sensor on the windshield. There should be a connector up there behind the plastic cover you can pull. Last I recall this will revert the 'auto' selection on the stalk to old school intermittent operation. A long shot, but another relatively easy check/workaround.

I've added a couple of wiring diagrams from the service manuals for '13s if you're interested in them. I imagine it's probably not gonna differ much between years. PG1.pdf Pg2.pdf Pg3.pdf Pg4.pdf

Not sure if anything has been tried yet on the software/OBD tool side, but as a quick attempt in ForScan you can try doing a reset of the BdyCM. That'll basically force it to hard reboot. You'll know it rebooted as you'll get a nice light show as the car seemingly shuts down 100% and all lights go dead and then come back up a few moments later. Reflashing the BdyCM would be my next guess if that doesn't resolve it. If you're adventurous, this can be done with ForScan on Windows with a proper OBD adapter (OBDLink EX seems to be preferred for this process) but given it controls a LOT of critical components in the car including the ignition process, I'd be wary of DIY'ing that. It's the one module I have not messed with myself for that particular reason. Last thing beyond that would maybe go old school with a multimeter and verify the lines going from the BdyCM to the wipers (including through the relays) are getting the signal through and there's not possibly a broken wire in the harness somewhere. That's probably going to be a bit more involved. That's basically all I can think of right now. You've exhausted a lot of possibilities at this point.

Has Android Auto worked previously on this vehicle? I know in the early Sync 3 equipped model years, the USB hub needed to be replaced or it would throw up a similar message. Though Android Auto would still function (Apple CarPlay is the only feature that does -not- work with the older USB hubs). And I believe 2017's had the updated hubs, not sure. If AA worked before, here's some simple things I'd check: 1) Ensure your phone is fully up to date and your apps are up to date. 2) Ensure Sync is fully up to date (check Ford's site here: Ford Support | Update Your SYNC® System with a Flash Drive. If you are more adventurous, you can go look up the Syn3Updater tool by Cyanlabs. Ford's only going to officially update Sync 3 so far for your vehicle, but unofficially you can update to much newer versions, which this tool will help accomplish.) 3) Try different cables and make sure you are trying ones that do data transfer and are not charge only. 4) Ensure your phone isn't defaulting to a USB mode like charge only. I believe 'File Transfer' mode is required for AA to function. Some brands seem to misbehave in this area and requires manual intervention. As a simple FYI, AA or other issues are unrelated to the 3G/4G modem upgrade.

Glad you were able to figure it out. And yeah, a few days definitely won't make much of a difference here.

Looks like I forgot to reply here. Ooops. So I did end up checking what data was available via ForScan. Quite a few interesting bits of info with a small quirk. Wiper stalk position (on mine this is a bit quirky. Both the 'Off' and Intermittent/Auto positions both indicate 'Low'. Medium and High full time positions show accordingly. Single wipe shows as single wipe Wiper motor activity - It'll show active and parked There are others, but those seem to be the key ones. ForScan has these under the BdyCM module. If using the mobile app, you can just search for 'Wiper' in the PIDs under the Dashboard tab and it should be clear. Maybe that'll help add a little extra diagnostic info to the search. I'm very interested in seeing what the final outcome of this is!

Make sure you aren't restricting yourself to a given module like the BECM. That's only for the HVB. The 12v battery PID is going to come from the BCM/BodyCM.

A bit late on this one and more of an obvious/common sense kind of thing but it still shouldn't be recommended to run with no 12v battery even if the car doesn't complain, regardless of whether it is a traditional ICE vehicle or a hybrid with a DC-DC converter. The biggest benefit of the 12v battery other than starting the vehicle is acting as a smoothing capacitor of sorts and keeping voltage spikes in check when high loads kick on or off. And there's quite a few in modern vehicles. Not running with the 12v battery can leave room for voltage spikes and surges to wreak havoc on expensive modules in the vehicle. The DC-DC converter may have the benefit of having some components on the 12v side for this, but until someone has torn it down to confirm, I wouldn't bet the multitudes of expensive modules on it. Paid version is not required for that data. You'll find it under the 'Dashboard' where you can view various PIDs. Be aware there are two battery age PIDs available. One for the 12v and one for the HVB. If memory serves, the HVB is counted by months and the 12v battery is counted by days.

Anything available through the MyFord Mobile app/site. So remote start just from the app (the fob will still function), lock/unlock from the app, statuses, etc.. Depending on the version of Sync you have will determine how Go Times and Value Charge settings will be affected. Sync 2 seems to be the most affected from my experience. Sync 2: -- Go Times: Make sure the feature is enabled in the app/site. If it is disabled, to the best of my knowledge it cannot be re-enabled in the vehicle. A Master Reset may do it but I did not have a chance to try it before my Sync 3 upgrade. As long as it is enabled though, the Go Times can be edited in the vehicle. -- Value Charge: Ensure any locations and Value Charge times you wish to use for the foreseeable future are entered in the app/site. Again, to the best of my knowledge, this cannot be edited in vehicle. You are only able to toggle between Value Charge and Charge now for your current location. Sync 3: -- Go Times: It appears Ford added an on/off toggle for this feature in Sync 3 so the above warnings aren't a concern. -- Value Charge: I have not dug deep into it, but it also seems like the option is there to edit VC times in vehicle. I'll have to mess with this a bit more in the coming days.

As another 2013 owner, I'd say forget about it especially at that price. Not worth it for the limited value the car will ever see. At BEST you may be lucky and get one of the newer batteries I think the Fusion and C-Max started receiving around 2017 or so? But as far as I recall the improvement was very small. If you are stuck on replacing the battery, I'd at least look at some of the third party/aftermarket options that exist. There's not many, but most seem to be offering refurbed batteries for a fraction of the price you listed. Sounds like if your battery is in such a poor state now, it was likely not managed properly. These cars are not very smart on their own unfortunately and do require some hand holding to maintain the life and capacity of the battery. It's been well documented in the various communities including this one regarding steps that can be taken to better manage the battery. I'd recommend reviewing those even now, but especially if you go forward with replacing the battery.

There's a second coolant system for the hybrid inverter. This is the small tank on the driver side of the engine compartment. Ensure that is at a proper level too. If it needs topped up, use the same called for Motorcraft coolant that's used for the ICE side. The high coolant temp message you got can come up for either the hybrid cooling system or the engine cooling system.

No. You must upgrade the screen. The old Sync 2 screen not only has a different connection type and resolution but also a different touch screen that is not compatible.

This is just an FYI and documentation here for those members here that own Energi models. With the upcoming 3G shutdown by AT&T in February '22, anyone who has an updated 3G modem (this particular recall was done years ago. If you currently use the MyFord Mobile app or website successfully, you've had this recall completed already) will lose the ability to use the associated services and features. Ford has recently come out with a Customer Satisfaction Program (#21B09) to upgrade the current modems to 4G/LTE capable models in certain models and years of vehicles. I've attached a screenshot that a member on one of the Facebook Groups posted. The key details that have been found so far: 1) The primary group of eligible C-Max energi vehicles is 2014-2017. It is unknown if '13 models will be allowed to receive this. 2) For those with VINs covered under this program, you will be required to pay for the parts cost, but labor and installation will be covered. Currently it's been noted that the parts cost is to be expected around $300-$500 on average. This will likely vary by dealer and location. 3) For those with VINs not -explicitly- covered in this program, you may still request the upgrade but will be responsible for the full cost both parts and labor/installation. I have not yet inquired with my dealer for my '13 Energi. If anyone else with a '13 reaches out to their dealer, it'd be nice to know if they are permitting the upgrade for you. This process will also forcibly migrate you to the FordPass app from MyFord Mobile. One user has been posting in the MyFord Mobile forums who did a DIY upgrade using a TCU from a wrecked '16 Escape and was able to successfully register with FordPass and eventually have EV related items show up as well as the remote access tools. MyFord Mobile Discussions - PHEV MyFord Mobile Discussion -&nb... --- EDIT 1-25-22: I've attached the full bulletin PDF to this post. This includes further details on the kit part numbers as well as installation instructions for the different vehicles supported. As a note, the listed kit part numbers do appear (based on info from other forums/sites) an internal only number that is not applicable to normal parts ordering methods. These may only be available through this particular program. The actual TCU included in the kit, in theory, should be able to be purchased separately. It is unknown what TCU models are being used as part of this kit officially. If anyone has done this upgrade through their dealer and is willing to or has access to ForScan, the model number of the new TCU can be pulled for documentation purposes. MC-10204043-0001.pdf

That's correct. The AsBuilt/config changes like this can't be done via the app and must be done via the Windows app. EDIT: I also know that I've been putting off getting the new thread set up with the modifications I've found. I'll start working on that this weekend. There won't be much to start but I'll add things as I go and will happily solicit anything anyone else finds. You all have probably seen the F150 AsBuilt spreadsheets floating around. I'll probably design this closely to that.

I'll have to do some checking this afternoon when I'm off work, but I seem to recall ForScan had the option to view the status of some of these switch inputs as read by the BCM. At the very least I do recall being able to do this on my old '07 Focus so should be able to do the same with the C-Max. At the very least this can confirm from the software and switch ends if the theory about failure at these points is correct. But it seems like they've ruled out the other obvious points. I'll report back what I can find in ForScan regarding this functionality. The weird part though is that in theory the wipers should always return to park when the system sees an 'off' signal from the stalk or software. The only time it should ever stop in a raised position is the service mode which is activated at key-off (You turn on the car then shut it off and within a few seconds after, hold the stalk in the bottom 'single wipe' position for a few seconds and the wipers will move up and stop halfway up the windshield. You can then turn on the car and hit any position on the stalk to get the wipers to return to normal).

You can through engineering mode. Hold the ok button on the left of the steering wheel while starting the vehicle. The left side display on the dash will show a Test/engineering mode. You can then use the up/down arrows to cycle through different info and in here you will find any DTC's stored. Personally, I recommend picking up at least a cheap Bluetooth OBD dongle and then check out the ForScan application (Windows, iPhone, and Android). This is a Ford specific application and will be able to show Ford specific codes that a generic reader may not. And there's other useful functions in the app as well like being able to read all the live data from the various modules even Ford only PIDs. $5.99 for the mobile app (Windows version is free currently, but has a paid license to access stuff like module firmware updating which most people won't need) and the Bluetooth OBD dongles generally run around $10-$20. Any will work for basic diagnostic work.

Just a small nitpick, but I wouldn't pit Sync 2 as a make or break. Get it updated to 3.8 or 3.10 (the last versions released that basically fixed the major bugs and made it reliable) and you're good. Before I made the jump to Sync 3 in my '13, my Sync 2 APIM had been updated to 3.10 and has been rock solid for some times. No complaints from me. Unfortunately too many people forget the fact that we are in an age where we do have to deal with software updates that actually do provide tangible improvements and fixes. And with Sync you at least have the option to do this DIY with nothing more than a USB drive (caveat being if the PO -never- updated it from the factory specs. There was a specific version where if you are on a version prior to that you'd need to have a dealer do a low level firmware update on the APIM so it could get past that hurdle. You can infer this from Ford's SyncMyRide website and seeing what update level you are at and any updates it offers to you.). Or if you're interested, budget for an upgrade to Sync 3. The prices are slowly coming down and so many sell kits now with everything you need plus programming for your vehicle ahead of time so it is 100% plug and play with zero vehicle modifications. Sync 3 is still receiving updates (in fact just received an 'unofficial'/unreleased update on 10/20) and has been rock solid in my experience. And it gives you access to Android Auto and CarPlay which are invaluable IMHO. Other than that, the rest I agree with. The transmission is going to be one of the biggest question marks on these years and the main thing to be aware of when shopping around. Other than that the vehicles are pretty reliable. I've been very happy with my '13 Energi. 86k on the odometer and knock on wood no transmission issues just yet. Just basic maintenance so far. Oil changes and tires and that's it and I've had it for 4 1/2 years now and tacked on about 35-40k miles myself.

Looks like you may have a thread open on the Cyanlabs forums with F150chief already providing good advice on the AsBuilt stuff. I'd stick to that since they are super knowledgeable about AsBuilt related stuff in Sync 3. That's largely outside of my wheelhouse especially for the initial Sync 2>Sync 3 migration. When I got mine, my APIM was already preprogrammed for me. That said I imagine if you get the AB file for a factory Sync 3 vehicle with the same or similar options, it should at least get you a good baseline to start from and tweak from there. Brightness issues I haven't had any problems other than the known flickering issue when the light sensor in the vehicle triggers a change. I can change the brightness slider on the APIM just fine. This may be something that is resolved with the proper AsBuilt especially if the existing config is set for a different lighting architecture. And as far as the update process, the APIM was the only thing that needed to be modified in the AsBuilt department. The rest of the car remained stock and unmodified. I much prefer sticking to stock as much as possible and this is one of many reason I made the move to Sync 3 with my '13 was it was all super easy and plug and play. It's been rumored way back in the early days of Sync 1/2 that Ford engineers wanted to build the system to be easily upgraded like this and seems like they managed to accomplish a lot of what they wanted even if Ford at the top level doesn't officially support this upgrade.

Others will probably advise differently, but I'd ensure the dealer is installing the proper called for battery for the vehicle to rule out any variables. It should Part # BXT67R. If the CCA/AH ratings are different, it could potentially impact the vehicle properly charging/discharging the battery. In addition, ensure they are resetting the internal battery age counter in the vehicle. If you are not aware, it has a complex battery monitoring system that watches age and degradation of the battery and manages charging and discharging accordingly. Not resetting this on a new battery may cause the system not to allow it to fully charge. This can also be done yourself, but you would need to use either Ford's IDS software or the free ForScan software and be familiar with its operation. There have also been some known battery drain issues over the years on these vehicles. These are some of the common causes I have seen: 1) The radio stays on after key-off (screen may go off, but you may still here audio or screen may stay on too) or the radio is unresponsive (More specifically, the touch screen is functional, but if you try to change audio sources from like FM to Bluetooth, the source will not change. Changing AM/FM stations may also not work). The workaround for this is to pull Fuse 79 temporarily. A proper fix requires the dealer to update the calibration on the ACM module. 2) Misalignment of the rear hatch. If you see any odd behavior with the car registering the hatch being open at unusual times, this may need to be checked. 3) The DC-DC converter (which takes place of a traditional alternator in our vehicles) has had some updates to improve operation and proper charging/discharging of the 12v battery. It may also be worth seeing if the dealer can run around the vehicle updating all the modules they can. These are essentially rolling computers and Ford has supplied regular updates over the years and some could improve potential parasitic drain issues. For a 2013, depending on how proactive the previous owner and dealers were, it could potentially have a lot of outstanding updates.

Bare minimum with the inverter coolant, I'd definitely recommend using the called for Motorcraft in the pre-mixed bottle. Given the smaller passages and much higher reliance on proper cooling here (given the inverter unit is operating all the time while the vehicle is running vs the ICE coolant loop), saving a buck or two on off the shelf generic coolant probably isn't a smart move. The Motorcraft stuff is very affordable.

Must be lucky with my '13 Energi then. My 12v battery is either 4 1/2 or more years old (when I bought the car) or as old as the car as the BMS counter registers the same age as the manufacture of the vehicle. But with that said I still get a good 10-15 minutes of the radio key-off and it shuts off -without- the 'powering off to save battery' message so assuming just the normal 15 minute timeout. Haven't had the need to jump start it either. Then again I do keep mine plugged in every night and it trickle charges the 12v battery at this time.

Best thing right now is to get a code reader (my personal preference: Cheap Bluetooth OBD dongle and use the ForScan app on your smartphone OS of choice. ForScan will read Ford specific codes that standard readers may not) and check them as this happens. Get the wrench light, safely pull over, check what codes there are. Without that, it is purely a guessing game what is going on especially with a prior accident in the mix. The codes will at least help narrow it down some especially if there's repeats each time it occurs.

This message will only appear if the vehicle feels the battery is at low enough health to warrant shutting off the radio that early after key-off. Nothing directly to do with Sync. Has the 12v battery been replaced since you've owned the vehicle? If so, do you know if the battery life counter has been reset? This is a vital step when replacing the 12v battery so the vehicle can manage it accordingly. Otherwise it's going to assume a brand new battery is still x years old and may not charge correctly and can result in premature wear. If the battery has not been replaced, it may be due. Most cheap battery testers aren't that thorough and can say it is ok when in fact it may be on its way out.

That unfortunately is beyond the scope of my knowledge. At minimum you will need to have it adjusted to include your current mileage as that is stored in the PCM. You may very well need to have the AsBuilt programming added to match your vehicle. Can't say about specific part numbers and compatibility though. And there's probably other steps involved such as some calibration or initialization needed. Again, this is all guessing on my part and out of my scope of knowledge.