cr08

And if the image above posted by C-MaxA2 and previous experience with these CR ratings are to be believed, the biggest thing dragging down those numbers is likely the Sync system due to the early MyFord Touch issues which would only apply to the 2013-2015 MY's. And these issues have since been resolved with the final updates (3.8/3.10) released for that platform. Personally I'm not happy about the infotainment being able to impart such a huge impact on the ratings. Especially for a vehicle like ours where the loss of the system wasn't as much of a safety issue with climate controls available as physical controls.

I usually get about 17-18 miles on the guess-o-meter on a good day. I haven't done the trusted battery capacity test in a while, but MyFord Mobile consistently shows me using around 4.0kwh on sequential trips on the same charge.

DTCs are the trouble codes. Whatever scanner you used first should be able to clear them. ForScan definitely can. Also disconnecting the 12v battery overnight should do the job as well so maybe try scanning for codes again first thing when you reconnect it. The module in the driver wheelweel is the PCM. There is a possibility it could have sustained damage and will cause issues, but I'd try the easier stuff mentioned above: Try again with a fully charged battery and see what codes remain. If nothing catastrophic has happened (ie: A damaged harness or the PCM being damaged), the list of codes should be reduced to what's actually legitimate.

Is the 12v battery healthy and charged? With all those random codes, that's a telltale of low 12v power messing with things. I'd ensure the 12v battery is good then try clearing the DTCs again. May also want to try clearing them in ForScan. If you can clear a lot of those garbage codes, it'll help see what is actually legitimate. If all the DTCs remain, and based on some of the additional symptoms you noted, there may be a wiring harness somewhere that is damaged would be my best guess.

Check the codes reported and post them here. Might also be worth seeing what the ECT temp reads. The Energi models will have two separate ECT sensors: The first isn't really an ECT sensor but is a cylinder head temp sensor that sits flush atop the engine between the spark plugs. There's another that will sit inline somewhere close to the resistive heating components near the passenger side of the firewall. This one actually reads the coolant temp as it flows through the heater core loop. Unfortunately this one I don't know the exact location. May also want to check the inverter coolant too. I think some have reported getting that same message when the inverter starts to overheat. If you have access to ForScan and a cheap OBD dongle, that can help narrow this all down as you can use it to read the individual sensors. Bog standard OBD tools reading the coolant temp for example will read an averaged/inferred number based off the two ECT sensors in the ICE cooling system.

Very curious how you got on with this and what kind of success you've had? I'll be honest that I've been tempted to try upgrading my '13 to the combined AM/FM/Sirius/GPS Sharkfin but the splitter and wire routing looked daunting.

Thanks for the information. I've went through a set and a half of tires so far in my 4 1/2 years of ownership and the uneven tire wear stock even with proper balancing and alignment has been frustrating. The cupping and associated noise is unnerving especially after doing a rotation at just 10k miles so all in all I've been on the hunt trying to find potential solutions I can look into. But so far it seems like the adjustable control arms mentioned elsewhere may be the primary option that is on my agenda once I'm due for a new set of tires. I do have to ask: Do you actually track your C-Max? Curious if you have any videos. I'm fascinated at how well it handles on the track. Just seems like it'd be a strange vehicle to see out there. lol.

Nope. For that price on a Sync 2/2013-2015MY C-Max, may as well splurge on upgrading to Sync 3 which is a BIG upgrade IMHO and it remains as stock as possible vs a hacky and potentially buggy aftermarket solution (which these 'Android' headunits usually are). If you already have Sync 3, I definitely recommend looking into updating to 3.4.x. I believe on all 2016+ C-Max's Ford only officially allows updating to 3.3.x versions, but 3.4 can be done with a small bit of extra leg work and it still remains fully functional. But you get a nicer UI (IMHO), and a bit more responsive and performant interface as well as a number of small improvements with Ford still actively providing updates (latest was late July this year and we're probably due for another release soon) with real tangible improvements and bug fixes. Since upgrading my 2013 from Sync 2/MyFord Touch to Sync 3, I've been extremely happy with it and don't anticipate any plans to upgrade or go aftermarket. It was well worth spending about $700 or so all in, IMHO.

Curious how long you've had these mods and what kind of tire wear you see with these? Anything better or worse than the normal camber/cupping issues seen stock?

You mention a 'software refresh'. What exactly was done? Was the Sync unit (APIM) fully updated when the dealer worked on it? If not, I highly recommend doing that and can do that yourself through the Ford site: Ford Support | Update Your SYNC® System with a Flash Drive if that was not already done. Second is doing a master reset which will clear out any leftover cruft on the system and start fresh. If doing those two in tandem (update and then master reset in that order) doesn't resolve the issue, then it may just be a faulty unit. As far as the cost of the replacement, the first question should be if you have factory navigation or not. That'll be a major factor in determining the price. With $1000 wouldn't seem to be out of place for dealer pricing for a nav enabled unit. Non-nav that starts to be a bit pricey to the point you could probably do the job on your own. Direct pricing on usual suspects like eBay you can probably find the APIM on its own for around $300 for non-nav and $600 for nav (prices will vary of course and I don't have current number). Replacing the APIM (the unit in charge of Sync here) isn't that difficult. The actual hardware replacement is pretty easy. For this I highly recommend looking up videos for Sync 3 -upgrades- for the Ford Escape on Youtube. They are abundant and will show you the entire process. The interior of the '13-'19 Escapes is identical to the C-Max so the same instructions apply. The screen would not need to be replaced, but the APIM attached to it will. And since your car came with Sync 3, the more difficult part would be reprogramming the replacement module with the AsBuilt for your vehicle. But since it already came with Sync 3, that's as simple as pulling the original AsBuilt from Ford and applying it via ForScan and the appropriate OBD adapter. That's like a 5 minute job for someone familiar with the process. Another option you may consider is using the CyanLabs Syn3Updater tool to bring your unit up to 3.4 and see if it improves things any as it is well known to be a little more performant than the older firmware versions. These older model year APIM's Ford only officially supplied updates up to version 3.3.x whereas there are 3.4.x updates for newer 2020+ vehicles but are 100% compatible with the older units. The Syn3Updater tool is completely unofficial but in this process will do a full format and wipe of the APIM and load the new updated 3.4 software on. Caveat: Once this process is done, it can no longer be downgraded back to any 3.0-3.3 version. It is also not sanctioned by Ford, so keep this in mind with whatever potential warranties you may have remaining that cover this portion of the car.

I'm curious with the new liquid cooled batteries what kind of temp ranges it tries to maintain now. Do we know if it is also heated or just cooled?

Are you sure it is the fuel pump? If it is only when the engine is running and it is a quite loud drone, it could also be the ANC (Automatic Noise Cancellation) system in these vehicles which is a very common thing to have create the loud droning and only runs when the ICE is operating and under certain conditions. You can check this thread for easy instructions on how to disable it and it is easily reversible so you can disable it and see if the noise goes away and decide if you want to keep it disabled or not. As an FYI on that topic: Both anecdotally with my 2013 and I've seen one or two other owners experience the same thing: Seems possibly after the vehicle accruing some mileage and normal wear and tear, the ANC system tends to behave a bit better. On my 2013 I'm at 85k miles now and have left the ANC enabled as it hardly ever creates the droning noise now. MUCH different than the first couple years I've had it.

As far as I am aware, no Sync 1/2 vehicle doing the Sync 3 upgrade will be fully plug and play on the USB hub. You need an adapter cable for the power feed and it will vary depending on the model year of the vehicle. For yours being 2014 it SHOULD be a 'Gen 1' adapter. Here's the one listed at 4dtech for a good image to reference: 4D Tech | Ford Upgrades, Replacements & Accessories Don't necessarily need to buy it from 4dtech, you should be able to find them on eBay or even make one yourself. The Sync 3 retrofit thread over on 2gfusions actually has more info on how to built your own adapter for this.

A couple immediate notes I have after playing around with the app yesterday: 1) Seems like it is locked to Metric/Celcius units. Would be nice to have this as a setting to switch between Imperial/Metric. 2) The Bluetooth device list seems 'stuck'. I was not able to scroll through it with my main OBD dongle hidden somewhere at the bottom. Thankfully the app picked it up automatically, but something to be aware of. This is on a Pixel 4a and Android 12, btw. 3) Is it possible we could get maybe a text file or CSV export option especially for the cell voltage/temp/health graphs? The graphs are cool but without any legible numbers per cell, it's mostly just a pretty picture. Also, how is the SoH calculated? This I'm quite curious about. Based on the note you have in the Play Store description about it not being accurate, I assume it is simply being estimated from other data. EDIT: Also, some screenshots taken from my 2013 Energi with almost 85k miles: Imgur: The magic of the Internet

Also completely missed this post as well. Kudos on the app! Been needing something like this for the Ford's. Will be checking it out after work this afternoon for sure.

Yep. eCVTs are fantastically simple and inherently bulletproof with whatever normal maintenance is called for (basically just a simple trans fluid drain and fill at I think 150k miles per the official maintenance schedule on the C-Max). The issues with the 2013-2015 MY's were basically installation failures and not an inherent design failure. Surprised there's a failure on a 2018. That should be a rarity but thankfully you are well within the warranty period and statistically speaking the replacement should last the lifetime of the car no sweat. CVTs (specifically what you'd find on non-hybrid vehicles) are a completely different beast from eCVTs and seem to be all over the board on reliability.

This only applies for MyFord Touch/Sync 2 vehicles (ie: 2013-2015 C-Max) with the SD card based nav. Sync 3 the map updates are locked to a given vehicle and can only be supplied directly through Ford/their nav data supplier. If you have a 2013-2015, no reason not to go the cheap route buying an updated card on Amazon/eBay/etc for a fraction of the price. I used to do this with mine on an every-other-year cycle when I still had Sync 2/MFT installed.

No button/switch with a blue light to the -right- of the gearshift that I'm aware of in any model year. May be something aftermarket the PO added. Can you provide a picture of what you are looking at? Hopefully this image comes through, but this should be all you will see in a stock C-Max hybrid/Energi.

Yes, the 'guess-o-meter' estimates based off a number of factors including climate usage and previous driving behavior and trips as well as ambient temps. As such, using the displayed EV range is not an accurate battery capacity indicator, but rather the actual kWh consumed which should change very little from one trip to the next.

A bit OT: So just an additional comment on the A/C usage with my C-Max. We went to the drive-in the other night and it was about 90F and humid. Arrived with about 50% charge (Sync reported SOC, not internal) and made it about 4 hours in before it dropped to somewhere between 10-15% before it cooled off outside enough to shut off the A/C and the remainder of the charge lasted the other 2-ish hours of the night. By my rough napkin math/guesses: With the estimated ~4.0kwh capacity I have left, that's probably around 1.5-1.7kwh use in those 4 hours, coming to around the 300-500w mark I mentioned earlier. And this was just maintaining an internal 70F pulling in the outside air. So I'm still curious what kind of power usage you're seeing from the A/C in the Escape and what climate settings you are using. I can't imagine Ford regressing to some really inefficient configuration/programming for the climate control system. Final and totally unrelated OT note: So above was the second time I took my C-Max to the drive-in and had it running the entire time. Something I've noticed and I think I understand what is going on is that while sitting completely still with no movement (ie: All draw on the battery, no re-gen or charging), in the upper end of the SOC the ICE kicks on a couple of times just for a very brief period of like a minute each. Lower end of the SOC it seems to be happy and doesn't kick in the ICE. It's my educated guess that it does this for cell balancing since it doesn't have regen or an EVSE to rely on and probably no way due to pack design to simply shift charge between cells deliberately.

Does the Escape still contain a Climate/Other power use gauge like the C-Max? I'm curious with that 25% hit what kind of power usage you were seeing? Also, what did you have the climate control set to? 25% feels like a lot unless most of the time it was running full blast trying to cool down an already hot cabin especially with the larger battery. Personally in my C-Max I often see between about 300-500w average climate use (purely by eye looking at the IPC gauge, haven't checked the numbers through ForScan recently) when it has settled in similar OT's here and I fluctuate anywhere between 68 and 72 on the call-for temp. And even then I don't feel like I see that much of a range hit with a measely ~4.0kwh capacity in mine.

@TomM The Tire Mobility Kit option is not going to be located in the vehicle settings on the touch screen but rather the left screen of the IPC (dash/gauge cluster). You'll find it under Settings > Vehicle > Tire Mobility Kit

Just to satisfy my curiosity and the fact this has never happened to me, exactly what happens in these cases? Is the touch screen still there and just no audio? Is the touch screen completely out and then boots up normally (Ford logo and all) when it cools down enough? What exactly are the symptoms? I'm guessing there's no clear 'No audio while overheating' message on screen.

Your battery has degraded significantly which can explain the balancing circuit stuck codes you are seeing. From what I've gathered from these codes and anecdotes from not only my own experience but second hand as well is likely what is seen is some battery cells have degraded more than others. And under some conditions (extreme heat or cold combined with high or low SOC where the charge curve quickly drops off) can cause those particular cells to fall out of range of the others to where those balancing circuits are going to try and bring those cells back in range with the others. But because they are so degraded, the balancing circuits are likely going to stay on longer than the vehicle expects as it tries to bring those cells up and throws a code and reverts to letting the ICE run full time and not put a load on the battery as a safety feature. If you are still under the hybrid warranty (If you bought it with only 7k in 2016, I imagine it is new enough it should be? Minimum you should have a 100k/8 year warranty) I'd definitely bring it in to your dealer and have them review it. Better if you can get the codes to trigger so they are active for the tech to read. If you do manage to get a battery replacement (either via the dealer or through a 3rd party/DIY option), I'd definitely read up on the numerous notes out there with recommendations on how to best manage battery degradation. These vehicles are unfortunately not super intelligent in this regard and does take some manual intervention to maintain the battery properly.

So I'm probably going to make a separate thread for this once I've completed what I want to do and have something more substantial to show... Been messing around in ForScan to see what features can be enabled in the C-Max that aren't enabled from the factory or intended to be. The first one that I was surprised to come across that is actually a direct feature toggle (and not needing to know and flip AsBuilt bits) in ForScan is displaying the Cruise Control set speed on the IPC (it will also display the previous set speed if 'cancelled' which is nice!). I'll attach a little teaser image here. I finally got an OBDLink EX ordered which I need for doing firmware updates including the PAM so I can re-enable the auto park function and hopefully that opens up some other new Sync 3 specific features as well.