wab

+1 on the "cap-less fuel"

Sorry about your dead batteries, you're not alone. A couple things about "Lemon Laws". They are VERY state specific!. DOCUMENTATION!!! Sorry but you need to stop jumping your cmax, call Ford road side assistance EVERY time you have a dead battery! Here are a couple links you may not have seen. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/forum/15-maintenance-tsbs-recalls/ there are SEVERAL causes and TSB for the 12v dead battery. You might want to print them and ask your dealer if they've checked your radio, wiring harness, water pump and the electric connectors that get wet. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/3310-official-ford-service-rep/page-2 Send a PM to our "OFFICIAL FORD SERVICE REP" with your VIN, mileage and contact ìnfo. Hope you get it fixed wab

This thread seems to have taken a new direction, but DRL's are pretty much set in stone, some people like them some don't, some countries like them some don't. Now back to the new subject. "The HVAC guys were wanting $6000 to do it. I laughed them out of my house, did a few days of research on the net and ended up doing it myself for $1000 and a day's labor." Like you if' the repair is within my time limit and skill level (3 engine swaps, 1 was a Buick V6 in a 914 Porsche) I DO IT! OUCH on the 6K$ that would be a new unit in N. TX. OUCH on the 1K$ that sounds like you put ALL new parts in your old unit. Ouch on your 8 hours of lost wages/time off, what is your loaded hourly rate? I'm going to guess it's a couple hundred an hour. A couple of yrs ago the blower motor on our house HVAC went out, 100+*, in the attic, more than a 1 day job for me....gladly paid the pro.

Greeting and Welcome Take a look at this thread, it's from last year. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/3977-double-din-dash-kit-is-here/ Have you checked Crutchfield, Cartoys etc? Here's a link to Crutchfield. http://www.crutchfield.com/mobile/car/carselector.aspx?info=|1547|15|69&vb=Y&i=&cc=01&stereoselector=&lp=%2fCar%2foutfitmycar%2fcar.aspx

Greetings and Welcome Take a look at this thread it's located in the "Maintenance TSB,s and Recalls" sub forum. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/1921-dead-12-volt-water-in-electrical-connectors/ "Upon hearing that my battery was dead after all the battery related TSBs were performed, Ford engineers toldthe mechanic working on my car to check the following electrical connectors for water intrusion: C134, C144, C140, C1812, and C1651. One of those is for fog lights. C1812 is for the coolant water pump. I am not sure yet what the others are for. These connectors are all on the main engine wiring harness. Water was found in connectors C144 and C1651." Here's another thread, you might want to print it. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/2428-ssm-32298-2013-c-max-fusionmkz-hybridenergi-possible-water-intrusion-in-connectors/ wab

0W20 and 5W20 are the same (20) thickness when the motor is at normal temperature. 0W20 is (0) thinner when the oil is cold than 5W20. That's why 0W20 only improves MPG over 5W20 when the motor is cold. BUT that's where ICE are at their worst.

Thanks for the math, we'll (probably) be getting the Goodyear's in a few weeks. Getting REALLY good mpg is fun at the coffee shop once a month. Really low pennies per mile is fun every day :clapping:

Could a pro detailer get to the sauce, if they can see it they can get it clean. $125 when they have a sale.

Greeting bill37 I don't think there are very many if any (maybe Jeep) newer cars that can be towed without pulling a fuse or charging from the motor home. We have over 10K towed miles without a dead battery or stopping to run the motor. The one time we stopped the motor didn't start till I turned the AC on, it still a took few minutes till the high voltage battery started to run down. Have you seen this thread we have a few forum members who tow their cmax. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/374-recreational-towing-behind-a-motor-home/ Take a look at post #92 pg 5, here's a link to the BrakeBuddy 39332 I installed. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=B004RCXB8A We've really enjoyed towing our cmax and hopefully will add another 600+ towed miles in May. wab

Maybe the 200, 201 and 202 packages have changed? I think I remember the 2013 200 and 201's having 1 knob used to adjust the temperature. We have 2 thermostats that HAVE TO BE adjusted EVERTIME the car is started. Maybe I need to look up Fords definition of "AUTO DUAL ZONE". But back on topic. Any thoughts on the most efficient passenger heat setting?

Greetings and welcome You should have your 12v battery tested. A few weeks after we started receiving that message we had a dead (wouldn't take a charge) battery.

"dual zone" one of my favorite subjects, but for a very different reason than yours. I would think that setting the passenger thermostat as low as it will go will = the lowest amount of ICE heat used. The main reason we bought the SEL was so we could set the thermostatS and forget them :doh: ,

:lol: OPS sorry everybody, I violated "Bully on Line" rule #1. I engaged the bully which is his only reason for being on the forum

Here is a helpful link. http://bullyonline.org/workbully/serial_character.htm

I hope you dropped a decimal point. 6 tenths a minute seems high, very high.

My point exactly, why not use a "Deep Cycle" 12v, it would go A LONG WAY in hiding the DEAD 12V problem.

Maybe this question answers a bigger question. Why does Ford use a "Starting" battery,which it doesn't need, in the Cmax?

Same reason the :doh: "Auto Dual Zone" HVAS IS NOT AUTO OR DUAL ZONE!!! DW has already said it's a deal killer this fall when we buy a :wub2: F150 ...pick another manufacturer!!! I told her YEP!!! Maybe my next pickup will be named Silver or Toy.

A4's are cheep. A5's are $50 and up I don't see the A6 yet http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=ford%20navigation%20card&clk_rvr_id=767899618328&adpos=1s3&MT_ID=69&crlp=25256625259_2416792&device=c&geo_id=10232&keyword=ford+navigation+card&crdt=0

Greeting and Welcome Ronp Did you see this thread by holidaynh? http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/2348-roadmaster-even-brake/ Brakes locking up is NOT GOOD. When setting ours up I found a couple references that the "Even Brake" isn't compatible with hybrids. Have you checked with Roadmaster or your MH forum? http://www.hitchsource.com/roadmaster-even-brake-towed-vehicle-portable-braking-system-free-shipping-p-28853.html http://www.etrailer.com/faq-tow-bar-braking.aspx Our 12V extension cable came unhooked once, the battery ran down. Now I make sure it can't! I ran wire from the 7way and installed new sockets/bulbs in the tail lights, pretty easy DIY. wab

Ford has a web site for keeping track of your DIY maintenance and non dealer work (4 wheel alignment, etc). I track our motor home and the cmax on it. http://owner.ford.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=Owner/Page/HomePage

:nonono: Low to mid 30's till 13B07 then high 30's with a few low 40's. In July the Body Control Module and all the corrupted software were replaced, tech said only took 1 software install, ALWAYS took 2,3 or 4 attempts in the past. Now we're getting low 40's with a 558 mile tank last week :thumbsup:. We still get 33.7 at 78 mph. Tuesday we got this on the way back from San Antonio. 20+ head wind most of the way speed limits are 75, 80 and 85, we drove at 80, 87 and 92.

Check on Recall 13C07. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/2990-13c07-ignition-door-chime/

YEP pretty TIGHT! But nothing like the filter!!!

True but extremely rare. I've seen one, a co worker found it. That's the cmax problem, a VERY intermittent problem.