fotomoto

Used the air compressor on a low tire (30psi). Worked great.

Funny, I just did this last night but with a 32GB sandisk. Yes, I just copy/pasted about 15GB out of iTunes (AAC audio files) directly to the drive and plugged it in to the center armrest USB slot. It took a few seconds to index it but began playing immediately including cover art.

Over nearly 50 miles= :rockon:

would have walked away. ;) :lol2:

Sorry, I meant the 2014 will come with a new final drive ratio. IIRC, it will match the current Energi model.

Fortunately, your issue is very, very rare as it's the only one, that I know of, reported on this forum. I hope you or your husband will get the actual details of what was done. You have absolutely every right to know. Also, did your repair receipt tell you anything or was it "gobbley-gook"?

Not to downplay this issue but we had our old Toyota RAV4 break at timing belt twice (once on the highway and the other in town traffic) and losing all power.

Only on the 5th tank and in the Boston area means you've only owned/driven the car in prime temps for FE. You should take a significant hit in the approaching months depending on how tough this winter is for you. Not trying to burst your bubble, just giving you a heads up. Heater use can keep the ICE running at stops, much longer warmup times, etc. It will be interesting to see what your lifetime is at one year. GOOD LUCK! :rockon:

A couple of threads all ready going on this: http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/2921-refund-checks/?p=32215 http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/2829-recall-13b10-fuel-economy-goodwill-payment/?p=30442

I strongly advise to NEVER do this. Remember, the EV battery spins up the ICE to start it. If you drained the battery completely trying to get that last mile, you may be truly stranded. I know in the Prius world the only way to remedy this situation is with a special factory charger for the EV battery that has to be shipped in to the dealer you had the car flatbed towed to. We can only hope the Ford engineers put in a fail-safe to avoid this but do you want to find out?

Download worked much faster and smoother by skipping wi-fi and going directly through iTunes on a wired computer. I didn't even need to re-pair my 4s. So far everything is working the same.

Hey congrats on just getting it downloaded to your phone! No joy here..... :sad:

I throughly enjoy driving an EV/hyrid with the audio off whenever I can. My Volt was awesome at this. Anyway, that's why I know it happened after the update. They are squeaks; definitely not a rattle. Think of grabbing an empty styrofoam egg carton on each end and gently and slowly twisting in opposite directions.

FTFY ;) Fuelly is currently at 40.6 and my best guess is it will level off around the 41-ish range after all the summer/warm weather tanks stop contributing in the upcoming weeks. Since the new EPA combined is 43mpg, that will be in line with other hybrids on fuelly that typically register 1-2mpg below their respective EPA combined numbers. I personally think the refund amount is too low based on 100,000 miles (warranty) and $4 gallon fuel and should be in the $750-1,000 range (upper limit for CARB states with 150,000 mile warranty).

Ever since the headliner update, mine sounds like creaking styrofoam when the car is flexed/twisted. For example: turning into a steep driveway when the wheels at are different heights or one wheel track goes slowly over a large speed bump.

Although my typical day is 40 to 60 miles a day, I only work about a 1/2 mile from home (long story). Needless to say, both home and work EV+ locations string together. This can be a bad thing if I'm approaching this long EV+ zone with an all ready low battery as it will really drain it down and I'll pay for it the next morning. How? With any kind of battery reserve, I can typically make it out of my neighborhood on EV power and then tap into the ICE and its initial morning warmup on higher speed roads where I can get a good pulse going. If the ICE fires up in the garage and runs through my initial slow neighborhood speeds (school zone) I dig a big, big FE hole right off the bat. Because of my special circumstances, I'm thinking about turning EV+ off and see if that actually improves FE. Remember, all your EV range comes from gas; one way or another. YMMV

$$$ ;)

As a former owner of Gen3 prius (2010), I feel slightly qualified to comment. :) I've also drove it over the exact same commute route as the CMAX for thousands of miles. So in no particular order, here are some quick thoughts...... The Prius FE computer, like the Cmax, is optimistic. 53mpg is more like 50 at the pump. Just driving it, I typically avg 46-48mpg. I had to hypermile to get near the vaunted 50 zone. Ran like a swiss watch but I did have one cold start issue when the ICE sounded like it was going to grenade (long story). Seats are uncomfortable after an hour or so and long trips literally become painful (back). Moderately loud, bouncy ride with a light, skating feeling at highway speed. Entertainment system would freeze with a large thumb drive. As one friend described, the graphics look like windows 3.1. LOL Upgraded JBL sound was OK. Has a mini-spare. Car is a EPA mid-size with a good size hatch. Weak, droning drivetrain. ECO mode is gutless but makes the throttle for P&G easy-peasy. It also has a much easier to read and understand power gauge for P&G. ICE will start up after :12 seconds anytime you power on the car unless the ICE is up to min. temp or you remember to push the EV mode button but even that has limitations. Better turning lock. Rear view is more restricted. Lower seat height make getting in/out harder. I preferred the steering wheels controls/interface which also has a temperature control. No glare on glass or displays from shiny trim. Stock 15in tires will be cheaper to replace. Made in Japan. YMMV.

As a recent purchaser of a Scan Gauge II, I'm picking nits here: It's only frugal since you all ready own a compatible tablet as that cost must be factor in too. Then there's the issues of security of leaving a tablet in the car and mounting/securing it while driving. Nevertheless, the Torque app is probably the most feature laden and highly rated app out there for monitoring high tech cars like the CMax.

spammer

That's a much better price but........ it only solves half the equation as you would still need to access a fob AND punch a remote button.

Just curious, do you have an SE? I had one dead battery issue but it was due to me leaving a gauge meter plugged in to the OBD port overnight. I've also have false starts with Reverse not working but it's always been an operator error with the car being in accessory mode not ready mode (green car with arrows on). Sometimes I noticed it before selecting Reverse because the a/c isn't cooling down.

I was just used that amount of money to buy a tablet with 4G LTE connectivity and be able to take it with me.

What a horrible time for it to happen too! If in safe location, I personally would have tried disconnecting the + terminal on the 12v battery. Sometimes a hard reset/reboot will do the trick. I'm not necessarily saying you should have tried this as I know something of this nature is above many folks abilities (like my wife for instance); especially on the side of the road.

At 65-85mph, the EV is so weak that anything (a slight rise in the road, headwind, nearly unnoticeable throttle application) will quickly revert it back to ICE mode.