jzchen

At this point I would guess to try to apply 12 V to the starter and see if it will crank, or get the starter tested.

If something/anything saw 17 V I'd start looking/checking fuses next. With the car in Ready to Drive can you measure the voltage at the battery? What is it?

I’m not 100% sure on this, but reading on warranty concerns the warranty by Ford (again based on what I saw online like on this forum) is based on what state the car was first sold. For example the car was taken delivery in a CARB state, then the CARB warranty applies. Any (new) vehicle sold in CO after it adopted CARB would also benefit from all the required warranties involved as well. Do you know if the vehicle was first sold in a CARB state?

I'm sorry to read of your issue just now. (I had been out of the country, then had a tiny break, then at a field trip basically as a taxi for students). Ours was a '13 and had battery drain issues, or at least a TSB that wrapped the harness to the trunk lid as well as programming. Interestingly ours and another person on here actually had both our 12 V batteries die on the same day at around the same time and in almost the same vicinity, (in Orange County, CA). I suspect some sort of signal from Ford woke our cars up and eventually drained the battery. (I don't believe that it was a coincidence). I bought a T5 replacement (if I remember correctly) at the time. I know of no specific tests to run. Just clarify that any open recalls or such have been completed on the car, or at least parts on order. I am in the San Gabriel valley and should still have my old cable that I got to use ForScan. If you run into trouble you can PM me and maybe I can take a look.... I would advise buying a portable jump pack and keep it fully charged. Then hopefully if it is found dead connect it to the underhood jump points and start it up to get going. (Make sure the jump pack you buy can reach the + and - points, or + and something solid for the -.

Regarding Melting: As far as ground wiring I do remember two wires going to each bulb, the base and trimming of such, (I would be very careful to only trim as much as necessary to fit into the socket), would be completely unrelated with respect to grounding. As I mentioned I did not even need to trim one side, so I tried fitting the other side for a long time without trimming the tab, eventually giving up and trimming a tiny bit, (in my iQ, not C-MAX). The tab to trim is very small as it is so it may make heat dissipation a teeny tiny bit worse. IF one trims too much (which is kind of a difficult one to gauge) then the bulb may not sit properly, heating damage may definitely result from this, (user error as noted). I would try to check if the wiring gets hot to the touch to verify the wires are not being overtaxed, maybe with a thermometer of sorts. Excess heat damage: Yes there’s going to be extra heat to the area surrounding the bulb. H9 bulbs have a (much) lower lifespan than H11 bulbs. Similarly this extra heat may decrease the life of the lamps, whether it be the optic bowls/reflectors and/or lenses. It is a compromise one has to asses on one’s own. I found the lighting on our ‘13 good compared to all the other vehicles in the household which had at the time OEM HID or LED. So I never upgraded the bulbs. I suggest this option to those who say they have issues seeing, ie not bright enough. I myself suffer from night blindness so I can definitely empathize with someone who has such a concern. Please consider getting the lamps aimed properly as this has a significant effect on visibility and safety (blinding others), as well as condition such as lens clouding as the cars age, may be time to replace the lamps…

From my research the 2017 you have uses projector lamps not reflector lamps. For the reflector lamps on prior model years I do not recommend H9s but high performance H11s. I did not have to trim one bulb and only a tiny bit on the other to get it to fit, (not C-MAX but iQ), so YMMV as the saying goes. I do not have the specs on the wiring on the C-MAX, but someone who does is no longer an active moderator/contributor. I will see if I can find prior content on the projector C-MAX I do believe it has been covered…

For specific bulb I do not recommend anything with any sort of tint on the surface of the glass, this is the last type I bought: Philips 12361B1

2017 got the revised headlight with projector low beams. I would dare say, (after confirming clear/not clouded lenses), try H9 modified to fit. Here's one demonstration on how: https://www.goodmoneysense.com/h11-to-h9-conversion/ For my '14 Scion iQ I actually cut the plastic of the plug and one side did not even need trimming of the metal tab, (the other side did a tiny bit).

Oh no! What happened?

That makes complete sense from a Ford warranty standpoint. I remember reading in our C-MAX manual how Ford does not warranty against normal battery degradation. So slowly automatically diminish capacity to prevent possible errors, (which to my understanding is covered).

I agree, not worth the risk to a DD. That's great to know if one is to replace their battery with a new one, kind of like how it is with the 12V. Thanks for sharing this find!

What model year? There was a recall/TS-B that addressed a possible rear trunk lid harness short, at least for our '13...

There appear to be Bridgestone DeiveGuard Plus in size 225/50RF17. Since I am hoping to get these for our Clarity PHEV I thought I’d bump this thread. Anyone get RunFlats due to no spare tire? Thoughts on the experience? MPG hit?

Sorry I missed this question until now! Sometimes Ford parts have FoMoCo on them to tell you they are OE vs aftermarket, (sometimes). There are tools that can check the battery health on the sensors, although I am not sure how accurate they are, sometimes you have no choice but to take your chances either way. If the tires have worn down to the wear bars or close then I would just have them replaced, (what I personally did when I needed new tires).

Looks like this is the CAT Clamp company and their product line for sale direct: https://catclamp.com/shop/?utm_content=78761287

Thank you for coming back to update your thread! I'm glad to see a "reboot" has solved your issue. The C-MAX has a lot of electronics in it that's akin to being a computer. Sometimes a random bug may creep out like you experienced. From my experience the car will warn you on screen when the battery has become weak/time to replace. So since you didn't report that I'm betting your battery is still good, and you just got one of these random bugs...

Usually fronts are struts, spring is mounted on a perch on the “shock”. Rears are shocks, springs are mounted separately from the shock. The front shocks are not covered because they are not shocks, they are McPherson struts. The rears are shocks. Bottom line is you should be covered by the warranty.

I’ll be there today…

I’m honestly not sure how you can blame Ford for not covering the transmission above the agreed on 121k mi though. $13k seems steep IMHO for transmission replacement…

Is there a check engine light? I wouldn’t drive it especially if there is. If possible get it towed to a trusted mechanic.

A tire shop should hopefully be able to find any slow leak causes. Thanks for sharing about your transmission fluid change experience and cost.

I didn't do any math, but we were on TOU when we last charged our C-MAX Energi at home. Same goes for our current Honda Clarity PHEV. Thing is, my son's college has many charging stations which are free, so long as he has a parking permit for the semester, so he/we charge there, (4 hours max Level 2 6.6 kW, or 1 hour max DCFC at 50 kW, technically 1 session per 24 hours but we found once a day is close enough to avoid a ticket). Can't beat free, although I must admit we are lucky that the school does not charge him beyond parking permit fee...

My first bet would have been to disconnect the 12 V neg cable from the battery, then reconnect it. Glad it seems to have resolved via dead battery.

I'm sorry that we don't seem to have many European owners here it seems, to answer your question. I am aware of the GO TIME function as our 2013 Energi did have it. We never really used it, partly because we live in a moderate climate, and also we don't leave at the same time every day. I feel like the issue is mostly solvable by the Ford engineering team, unless there may be something that can be done with ForScan. Are you able to Remote Start your C-MAX? Here's a ForScan forum thread where it appears they are enabling that feature if you don't have it: https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=11744&start=170 I understand there is limitation in range and GO TIME would be much more convenient, but in the mean time while a solution is still not available....

Can you please be more specific as to the "power steering issues" you are dealing with?