ptjones

I can tell you that it would be a challenge to get to and who would even need one, no demand. Paul

Why do you think that Regen has anything to do with turning radius? :headscratch: Paul

That was a UK article and yr. 2050 for no carbon emissions and It might be more practical for them. I can't see ICE ever being phased out, there will always be bio fuels and what is the Military going to use, EV tanks and ships I don't think so. Hopefully they keep making ICE more efficient which will make Hybrids more efficient. It would be nice to go 1k miles on 13 gal of gas. :) BTW NASA said in Feb. that the Earths average temp has been going down for the last four years. :headscratch: I think it lasted about two days, then they came back with the last four years have been the hottest on record. I find it interesting what you can do with the same numbers. :headscratch: Looks to me like someone has an agenda and they make sure it is followed no matter what the facts are. Paul

I forgot to add pics of my fill ups for Knoxville/Cincinnati trip from above Post To determine actual MPG for a fill up I multiply miles on trip gauge times 1.018(the % of difference between trip and GPS) then divide by actual gal. used at the pump. Then I post in on Fuelly.com :) Paul

Biggest problem would be to find one that would fit. Paul

About the only time I get above 55% SOC is with Regen and then I can hit 65-70% SOC given that I think we have a bigger window temp wise, I think I have seen 120*F going across the desert at OT of 107-110*F. :sad: Paul

2020 Explorer Hybrid has a lot of power but I don't think it gets any better MPG's than my wife's 2013 2L ECO Boost Explorer. It might work as a plugin if it had 30+ mile range. Paul

LOL, you didn't have that on your profile. Paul

You shouldn't have any problems with that low mileage. Paul

Drove up to Knoxville, TN on I-85/I-285/I-75 Friday afternoon to see Grandson and Daughter spent the night and gassed up in the morning at Sam's for $2.649/ gallon for Premium, got 56.4 mpg. Had some tailwinds. I drove up I-75 to Cincinnati,OH to deliver some optics to a customer and then back to Newnan,GA a total of 742.3 miles/54.58 mpg. All HWY driving with some head winds coming back, I had some difficulties finding drafting partners, less Semis going 60-70 mph is what I like to drive. So part of the time I was doing it pretty much alone or catching Truckers doing 70-75 mph which meant I was going 65-80 mph to try to keep up. :sad: That's probably a 4 mpg hit, I started out coming back with +30 miles to Empty but by the time I got to Atlanta I was 0E with 24 miles to go. :sad: I know I can go at least 25 miles past 0, but going farther becomes more challenging, I have gone 70 miles without running out. Then again I gone 26 miles and ran out. Getting close to Atlanta my average MPG's had started to go up and with two traffic slow downs my average had gone up .5 mpg's I knew if I made it to my off ramp with about 5 miles to go mostly down hill I would be fine. And sure enough it worked as planed, but my SOC was 32% when I got home. This could be a problem if I ran out of gas I wouldn't be able to EV very far. This morning when I turned on the car the SOC had gone up to 50% :) so now I have a safety margin and I have 3 stations along the way to BJ's 5.3 miles so I can EV to any of those. :) BTW I know that it is next to impossible to run out of gas going uphill, pick up is at the back of the tank, so I only used the ICE going uphill and EV on the level and coast down hill. Well my plan worked Great. I put in 13.6 gallons after a few clicks so I had .3-.4 gallons left or 15-20 miles. I went 30 miles past empty and could have gone 50 miles. :) The Main Thing here is you don't have to stress out if you screw up and run low on gas. Paul

I talked to a young Lady that just moved into our area with FFH, she was working on New Transit EV with liquid cooled and the best temp for LiON battery was 86*F/30C. Paul

They would have to prove that caused the problem, not a very customer friendly Dealer I my opinion, my Dealer wouldn't have done that and they have seen my Grill Covers many times. :sad: Paul

Views on my videos are up to 17k now with 471 in the last month, so more and more Hybrid drivers are interested in saving gas/money and having FUN doing it. Saving Gas can be FUN! Paul

How many miles do you have on your car. I'm in Newnan,GA and if you were nearby I could check it out for you. With mine it was louder with ICE on compared to EV. Paul

Did you check your coolant level after your first problem going uphill? I would like to see a picture of your foam installed to get an idea of what's going on. It is possible that you were leaking coolant for sometime before your uphill problem and the foam made it worse. You didn't say if you had any coolant dripping below the car. With my Grill Covers it is very hard to over heat going uphill, it took me around a year and a half of trying too. :headscratch: Paul

Most of the members on this thread are gone now. I think you could fought them on this, Grill Covers/ Foam didn't cause the problem, a defective hose connector did. It was probably the same connector I had leak on hot side of heater input hose. I had around 220k miles on mine, I have 234k miles now and my car is 2 yrs older. I'm thinking you are fine now. Having a ScanGaugeII or other OBDII scanner you would have been able to monitor your WT. You should have had a wet spot under the car, I did when I had the problem. Paul

First how many miles do you have on your CMAX and can you post/send a picture with your Grill Covers on. If you like you can PM(private Message) me your phone#, would be curious to talk you to get more info. I'm guessing that you have more than 100k miles so warranty didn't cover it. I did have a heater hose coupling leak and replaced at over 200k miles. Paul

I think it would be better/safer to use the second 12v battery separately with a 1000 watt inverter and charge it from household current. :headscratch: Paul

For newer owners of CMAX/FFH's with temps in the 80-90's*F if you use Premium Gas and 50 PSI in tires you should be getting 47 Smart Gauge MPG if you keep your speed bellow 70 mph and don't use A/C. I know that can be uncomfortable, but I'm trying to make a pretty exact prediction and A/C is a big variable. :sad: Have Fun improving your mpg's. :) Paul

Keep up the Good Fun. :) Paul

Don't buy the 94V ES, they cost more and don't get as good MPG's, I don't think any manufactures use them. Paul

Sounds like a good plan, I'm pushing for MPG's so I went for 50-48 psi. :) Paul

Time to use Physics. I tested stopping distances for 30 mph at 35 psi and 50 psi. There doesn't seem to be noticeable difference between the two, At 35 psi the front tires are under inflated wearing on the outside of the tread and leaving tire marks on the concrete. The rears show no wear pattern. At 50 psi the fronts are working great with no tire marks, but the rears are using the ABS to keep from locking up. If stopping distance was the only consideration you would put 50 psi in the fronts and 35 psi in the rears, but I doubt you would gain more than a couple feet. The Big Picture Here Is You Can Use 35 psi to 50 psi With No Significant Difference In Stopping Distance And Tire Pressure Isn't A Safety Issue! And Again I'm Only Putting Out There The Experiences and Facts That I Have Found From My Testing and Members Can Decide What they Want To Try Out If Anything, I'm Not Telling Anyone To Do Anything! BTW I have 233k miles on MADMAX, must be doing something right. I found a problem in that not all tire pressure gauges are created equal. I have been using a Slime Pen gauge and it turns out it reads 2 psi high as compared to ACCUTIRE, TEKTON and Slime Digital gauge. Slime Sport digital gauge reads another 2 psi lower. It is important to have an accurate tire pressure gauge. Digital pressure gauges sell for $10 to $20. The three center ones seem to be accurate. Tire wear also shows you also how the tire is wearing front to back too, there is no difference with side to side. This Michelin ES has 95k miles with even tire wear at 50 psi. , inside edge 2/32nd, center 3/32 nd and outside edge 3/32 nd Here is a visual demonstration from the Tire Rack on tire pressure vs tire contact area. This same thing happens when you try to stop fast, 70+% of the weight of the car transfers to the front wheels making them go under inflated. https://www.tirerack...ge.jsp?techid=3 You can have a large contact area and less traction do to the center of the tire losing contact pressure. You need to have more pressure to compensate for the added weight for the best stopping traction. TIRE TECH: AIR PRESSURE VS. WET PERFORMANCE(Lea en español) Most drivers realize that tire load capacity is determined by tire size and inflation pressure. Larger tires and higher inflation pressures provide more load capacity, while smaller tires and lower tire pressures provide less. An under-inflated tire will tend to wear the shoulder areas of the tread faster than the center. This is because there is insufficient air pressure to allow the center of the tread to carry its fair share of the weight. A correctly inflated tire receives appropriate support from the contained air pressure to provide an even distribution of load across the footprint. And while most drivers recognize that this has a significant impact on tire wear, rolling resistance and durability, only a few realize it also has a noticeable influence on how effectively the tires can resist hydroplaning to maintain wet traction. As they taught us in physics class, you can compress and move a gas quite easily, but you cannot compress liquids and it requires significant energy to move them. Our tires easily push air around and through their tread designs as they roll. However, when water pools in highway ruts and builds up on the road surface during rainstorms, the vehicle's speed and weight, as well as the tires' tread designs, tread depths and evenness of their footprint pressures determines if and when the tires will be forced to hydroplane. One of the ways tire manufacturers evaluate their products' hydroplaning and wet traction effectiveness is by driving them over a glass plate covered with a specific depth of water. The water is dyed for better visibility and to allow high-speed cameras in underground rooms to photograph the tires from below. Michelin has provided several photographs of its HydroEdge premium All-Season tire to help illustrate this tech feature. Photo #1 Photo #2 Photo #3 Photo #4 The first photograph shows a tire properly inflated to 35 psi sitting still in the water on the glass plate. This provides an accurate idea of the tire's footprint size and shape. The black area is where the tire's rubber compound is pressed on the glass, and the green areas identify water in the tire's circumferential and high-angle lateral grooves, and on the remainder of the glass plate. A properly inflated tire will have enough pressure in the center of its tread to resist collapsing. The second picture is of a tire properly inflated to 35 psi, driving across the glass at 60 miles per hour. If the glass plate were dry, the footprint size would be virtually identical to the first picture because air does not prevent the tread from contacting the plate. However, with standing water on the plate, the tire's tread depth and tread design must evacuate the water as the tire rolls across the plate at 88 feet per second. You will notice that the footprint still shows good contact with the plate, but is slightly smaller than the static tire's footprint. A tire that is slightly under-inflated will apply less pressure to the center of the tread and it will become slightly concave. The third picture is of a tire inflated to only 30 psi, again driving across the glass at 60 miles per hour. With the same amount of standing water on the plate, the center of the tire's tread is lifted as the tread design unsuccessfully attempts to evacuate water as the tire rolls across the plate. You will notice that the actual footprint shows poor contact with the plate and is significantly smaller than the footprint in the photograph of the properly inflated tire. A tire that is significantly under-inflated will allow the center of the tread to collapse and become very concave, trapping water rather than flowing it through the tread design. The final picture is of a tire inflated to only 25 psi, driving across the glass plate at 60 miles per hour. With the same amount of standing water, the water lifts the center of the tire's tread as its footprint rolls across the plate. You will notice that the actual footprint shows little contact with the plate and has been virtually reduced to the shoulder areas. Members of the Tire Rack team had the chance to experience the effects of air pressure on wet performance at Michelin's Laurens Proving Grounds. Drivers were given the opportunity to compare identical cars on a wet-handling course with the exception of one car having four properly inflated tires (35 psi) and the other car having significantly under-inflated tires on the rear axle (25 psi). While driving at the edge of a tire's ability in wet conditions is challenging, the car with the properly inflated tires provide handling that was predictable. Driving the car with the under-inflated rear tires proved to be much more difficult to drive and forced the driver to slow down to retain control, producing lap times that were several seconds slower than the properly inflated car. While tire manufacturers can develop tires with great hydroplaning resistance and wet traction, poor maintenance of tire inflation pressures can make a great tire awful. Given this example I think would have to go to 40 psi to get similar results with Energy Savers. Paul

To start with you should use the door sticker and then pay attention to tire wear. If it shows more wear on the edges of the tire it is under inflated. All FFH/CMAX I have tested show signs of under inflation at 35/38 psi. I asked My FORD Service Mgr to ask FORD about tire pressures and he got a no comment. I did talk to Tire Rack tire testers and they said that it is common for FORD to under inflate their tires to get a little softer ride, tire pressures are a compromise between ride quality, gas mileage, handling and stopping among other things. The FFH/ CMAX have 35/38 psi recommended which is odd for two FORD cars that weight the same and have similar suspension. It would appear that ride quality/ smoothness is high on their priority list. Talking to Michelin Rep they recommend starting with FORD's recommended pressure and then find the pressure that gives even tire wear. I told him I was using 50 psi and getting even tire wear. He Said "Then he wouldn't have problem with that and not to exceed 51 Cold tire pressure" BTW the bursting pressure is around 200 psi , so you don't have to worry about that. An auto mechanic on CMAX forum used 55 psi with no problems, but I wouldn't recommend this. I did look at a number of used FFH in Dealers lots and sure enough the tires were wearing more on the edges than the center which is a sign of under inflation. So it is obvious 35 psi is to low to get even tire wear. Facts: FFH/CMAX can use 35/38 psi to 51 psi from OM and on the sidewall of Michelin ES safely according to the Michelin. With 220k miles of experience my tires last longer and perform better than they did at 38 psi and get better gas mileage +1.3 mpg at 50 psi. My last set of Michelin Energy Savers lasted 87k miles, only warrantied for 55k miles. The nice thing about tire pressure is you can raise it up and try it out and then decide what to do next, you can always go back. Note: Tires aren't very sensitive to pressure, if you go up to 40 psi you will probably not notice a difference. At 45 psi you will notice a little difference and 50 psi a little more. Also Your tire pressure should change with Gross Vehicle Weight . There is no info in OM about changing tire pressure unfortunately. For me I have saved about $500 going to 50 psi tire pressure by improved mpg's and tires lasting 25% longer. 50 psi does make for a little stiffer ride and I think all the improvements in performance, gas mileage, tire longevity and 1/4" increase in ground clearance is definitely worth it . You should have a tire pressure gauge and tread depth indicator in your car so you can monitor the pressure when you put air in your tires and also measure tread often to see how the tires are wearing. I use these to measure FFH/CMAX tire wear also have digital tire pressure gauge too. Paul

WOW! I'm not feeling to good about your Dealer. BTW you should replace your lug nuts with solid ones. IMO Paul