plus 3 golfer

One should do the procedure in the video at least two times with 10 miles on ICE driving between the procedures so that one can also get most of the old fluid left in the cooler after the first change out after the second change. If you get a fluid change at the dealer, the dealer should hook up lines to the cooler to flush the old fluid out in addition to draining the transmission.

The way one checks fluid level requires a little "work". You need to add fluid until it drains out the check plug. There are 3 plugs: one on top that can be used to fill, one in the "middle" which also can be used to fill but is the check plug, and a drain plug at the bottom. You fill until fluid comes out the check plug. You can buy a tool that screws into the check plug and attach a pump to it to add fluid. I believe the tool link is the correct one or you can fill from the top via a hose and funnel until fluid comes out the check plug.

The DRL current calculation was to show a known current level (for comparison with LEDs, HIDs) where the BCM doesn't trigger a DTC. You mentioned the relay kit and installation of the relay kit will affect the current draw from the BCM compared to Halogens. Now having said that, I just found a post on the Energi site that "believes" the issue with LED headlamps triggering a DTC is because the LED electronics "interferes" with the BCM electronics / monitoring. By placing a 50 ohm resistor across the LED input, the poster got the LEDs to work (I believe in DRL and full mode as he changed configuration with ForScan). So, there's a good chance that the relay kit will work as advertised with the HIDs as there are no electronics in the relay. You could also buy a few 50 ohm resistors and try.the resistors with your LED kit and forgo the HIDs (and let us know if it works). :) You'd probably want around a 5 Watt resistor as the power would be about 3+ Watts based on the BCM voltage at 90% (see below). It appears that the capacitors in the HID kit are used to "smooth out" the voltage and current flow for vehicles that use Pulse Width Modulation. The C-Max uses two PWM settings 66% duty cycle for DRLs and 90% duty cycle for headlamp. Evidently, this PWM can cause flickering of HIDS without the capacitors. The relay kit obviously bypasses this PWM by operating the HIDs from the 12V battery. Good Luck! If I Recall Correctly = IIRC

If you assume that DRLs operate at 2/3 power, the DRL current = 55W * (2/3) / 13.2 V = 2.8 A current draw per bulb. A 12 Volt relay coil will likely have a fairly high resistance say 75 ohms or so. Thus, the relay will only draw 1/5 amp or so. This draw is probably less than one LED headlamp draws which triggers the DTC.

Corrected.

The headlamp switch on the inside of the car connects to the BCM by a Local Interconnect Network which is a single wire. The BCM then knows the position of the switch via the data transmitted over the LIN. If I Recall Correctly, the poster that placed a resistor across the headlamp LED used a kit not compatible with the C-Max (exactly what you are doing) and found upon installation the "issue". He solved the issue by placing an appropriate sized resistor across the LED to increase current draw such that the BCM would not trigger a Diagnostic Trouble Code and inoperative headlamp. IIRC, that was several years ago and perhaps now there is a compatible LED kit for the C-Max.

In the left side info display, select Settings >> Vehicle >> Tire Mobility Kit >> 4 years and no more messages for 4 years.

My guess is you need a new battery. If it's the original, nearly 6 years is a long time on the original battery.

The low beam LEDs likely shut off because the BodyControlModule runs a monitor in RUN mode and not in ACC mode looking for electrical faults in the circuits. See note below: IIRC, someone found that adding a resistor in parallel to the LED allowed their LED headlamp bulbs to work. Search for the thread / post. Also, the BCM use pulse width modulation to control the brightness for DRL implementation. You should not have any issues with the fog or high beam LEDs as IIRC, there is no monitoring of the circuits - just relay contacts on the BCM that close and apply 12V battery voltage to these LEDs. I would not recommend cutting into the existing wiring harness / modifying the connectors (jury-rigging). Splicing into existing wiring to bypass the headlamp switch and BCM could be problematic and would likely need reversed when selling the car. The dash headlamp switch via a LIN communicates the switch position to the BCM. The BCM controls the low, high and fog headlamps and checks for circuit faults. The wiring from the BCM to the headlamp assemblies are in a 42 and 20 pin connector when leaving the BCM. These two wiring harness split (likely many times) to pull the correct 4 wires for the left and 4 wires for the right headlamp assemblies which are connected to a 14 pin connector at the headlamp assembly. NOTE: Due to varying wattage ratings and the resulting current draw differences of certain aftermarket halogen headlamp bulbs, the BCM may activate its short circuit protection strategy, resulting in the low beam output circuit becoming inoperative. Verify the bulbs meet Ford specifications. If the bulbs do not meet Ford specifications, install the correct bulbs. Run the self-test (required to clear certain DTCs and reset the BCM . Correct any unresolved DTCs. Clear all DTCs. Test the system for normal operation.

I believe you are automatically registered for the Energi site via this site. So, just use your C- Max login and PW on the Energi Site. Click on the C-Max Energi Owners link on the top of this page.

Headlamp assembly is easy to remove (two screws) for replacing bulbs but I don't believe the assembly comes apart. One can remove the assembly and look if there's a way to dissassemble it. If not, here's a video on how it's done through the holes for the bulbs. Need a "picker", lens cleaning solution, and "magnetic" cloth. Simple, if one has the correct tools. :)

Exactly what did you fix? replace mirror glass ? replace entire mirror with OEM mirror? or what? There is only one connector in the mirror that has the temp sensor, heater, and control wires. Do all the other mirror functions work? Did you break the sensor during replacement? Look at the bottom outside of the mirror housing. The temp probe protrudes maybe 1/4 inch downwards. Driver's side mirror doesn't have the probe protrusion.

A word of caution, go to the C- Max Energi forum and read about HVB capacity loss related to heat and how to charge HVB to mitigate loss including charging to only 80% and charging when its cool. Many have lost considerable range in EV mode because they charged to 100% frequently. Volvofixer has a recent post where his range is only 11 Miles.

Maybe electric coolant pump motor. You are pointing at the outlet air pipe that is connected to the throttle body . I believe the ICE coolant pump is maybe 6 inches below the throttle body. There is also another coolant pump for the inverter coolant loop. It's near the bottom of the radiator. You can see the two inverter coolant black lines just below and to the right of where you are pointing in the video. The inverter would be working hard (heating up when accelerating from start) to supply power to the electric traction motor. I don't know the control algorithm but perhaps this coolant pump is variable speed and reving high causing the noise when accelerating from stop. If you can find a long pipe or screw driver. Place one end on the various components in the area the sound is coming from and the other end to your ear. You should be able to tell what component is making the noise.

My origiinal 2013 key has: 228 and 252 stamps and wife's is 216 and 216. My guess the one from ebay is a "dud". ;) :) Time to contact seller.

With 338 miles shy of 100k miles (there goess my Unique Hybrid Components Warranty), mine are also clear.

I'm going to do this (and 5 k rotations) as I've got to get past 45k miles with "no unbearable noise." :)

Ajay, welcome. 1) 2014 have a few enhancements over the 2013 that might make a few tenths of a mpg difference: air deflectors on side of rear hatchback window and air deflectors in front of front wheels. I don't believe there are any improvements that would affect reliability. 2) I have made about 12 cross country round trips from 3800 - 4200 miles and many shorter trips around AZ, NV, and NM traveling at 75 - 80 mph and 85+ in TX. You will have no issues going up hill and if you want, can set the pace on the interstates. :) My trips were generally with 2 adults and one 70+ pound dog and maybe another 75 pounds of stuff (say around 475 pounds). FE with the OEM Michelins with cruise at 78 mph yields about 37 +- mpg with AC on. Expect less with other tires. IMO, it is a great driving car at higher speeds. 3) Biggest effect of AC on mpg is short trips where you have to cool the cabin first. Second, higher vehicle speed decreases affect of AC on FE because less time is spent conditioning the cabin than at slow speeds. The AC compressor is electric, run off the High Voltage Battery, and variable speed and thus very efficient. I would say say at 75 mph in the southwest, it might decrease FE by 2-3 %. 4) No sagging if weight is evenly distributed. Put 250 pound in cargo area and you'll likely see rear lowered. I think the most I've hauled at one time was about 500 pounds of bags of concrete and sand home from Lowes. Lot's of sagging then. Bottom line for the price: If you want decent FE on high speed trips AND comfort and performance, get a C-MAX. If you want to sacrifice comfort and performance for better FE, get a Prius V (and likely struggle going up hills).

Do you know if the dealer reset the 12V Battery Monitoring System when they replaced the battery? You can time how long it takes the radio to shut down after you turn the car off. Stay in the car with the radio playing and push the stop button to turn off the car. Don't open / close door. If the dealer reset the BMS, it will take 10 minutes for the MFT and radio to turn off. If not and the replaced battery was original or very old, the radio will shut off very quickly maybe in 90 - 120 seconds. BMS reset is important because the charging algorithms use battery age and a measured, accumulated estimate of declining storage capacity as the battery ages in determining how to charge the battery. So, it's possible that the new battery is being kept at a very low state of charge.

I recently had the same issue with my Android phone. The issue started about 4-6 weeks ago by not automatically connecting maybe every third or fourth time. I would have to manually connect it. Then about 2-3 weeks ago, it simply would not connect until I deleted my phone from Sync and repaired. It's been fine since.

xxx

"A bit rough" doesn't really define your issue. "Econony" in what sense? lower tire price, higher fuel economy, or over all cost as higher FE tires generally cost more with expected fuel savings to offset the additional cost of the tires. "Comfort"? softer ride, less noise, less jarring when hitting pot holes, or something else. Have you tried lowering the tire pressure to 38 psi (IIRC, that's Ford's recommendation). That will likely solve your rough and comfort issues (assuming tires are aligned and not cupped / feathered). Many on this site run pressure considerably higher than 38 psi and have no issues with comfort / roughness (including myself). I note you don't mention safety. For me, handling is at the top of the list especially wet / dry traction and braking when buying tires. Even though one may drive conservatively, one never knows when one has to execute an emergency manuver. I suggest you look at tirerack.com for tire reviews and ratings and get tires that meet your criteria for "roughness, comfort, and economy." IMO, why spend money on changing wheel size when the "right" tire will likely solve the rough and comfort issue. Having said the above, as obob stated, I highly recommend the General Altimax RT43 irrespective as to whether you want to put on 16" tires (see ratings below). I'm approaching 12k miles on the tires and the only negative, so far, is a hit to FE over the Michelin OEM tires (which I expected). Based on my data, I'd say that the Michelins will yield about 5-7% better FE than the Altimax. However, the Altimax is rated higher in virtually all other categories than the Michelins at about 60-65% of the cost of the Michelins.

^^LOL^^, looks like a $25 royalty per unit. Bottom line: Does any of this really matter??? Generally, the first to file patent wins even though many may be developing a sijmilar product at the same time. We can only speculate on what all the licensing agreement might "actually" say / allow without the actual documents. " Since 1992, Paice has focused exclusively on enabling automakers to design and develop cost-effective hybrid electric vehicles that deliver superior fuel economy and performance. It has licensed its hybrid vehicle technology portfolio to the world’s most significant hybrid automakers – Toyota, Ford, Hyundai/Kia, and others – who collectively account for more than 80% of all hybrid vehicle sales in the United States." AICE PRESS RELEASE | APRIL 12, 2018 Ford licenses hybrid vehicle patents from Paice, Abell Foundation Four out of every five hybrid-electric vehicles in the world now have a Paice license.

The manual I have includes 2012, 2013, and 2014 Ford vehicles and indicated it was for the 2013 and 2014 C-Max when I bought it. However, 2014 appears to contain Ford's entire lineup of vehicles (including Police). 2013 contains, C-Max, Focus and Focus electric, Fusion (incl. HEV, PHEV), MKZ (incl. HEV, PHEV) and Escape; and 2012 only includes the Focus (No electric). Why? I have no idea other than maybe that's all the fits on the disc. The last FSA in my manual dated January, 2014 is from Novermber, 2013. I note the manual in the link says it is only compatible with the 2014 C-Max. I don't believe there are any noteworthy changes in the 2014 over the 2013. Maybe search for other manuals and see what they say it includes.

Yes it is but it looks very similar to the Aisin design. Worth watching the video. But Ford may still have to pay a licensing fee.