plus 3 golfer

Add the ghostery extension to get rid of this sites info links ads for the green highlighted text. The blue underlined are good links.

I missed this on this forum but responed to OP on the Energi forum. Here's the response should anyone else get this DTC. See below snip and attachment from the service manual. Test HX is the procedures to check the circuits. If the tests are negative, then the control module switching valve is replaced. Check Fuse 46 in the rear fuse box on left sidewall in in rear hatch (see owner's manual for location of #46). If you plan on maintaining your vehicle, you should get a service manual and ForScan. P24BE - EVAP System Leak Detection Pump Vacuum Switching Valve Control Circuit Low Description: This DTC sets when a concern is detected with the evaporative emission (EVAP) leak detection control module switching valve circuits.Possible Causes: VPWR circuit openEVAPLDPSV circuit openEVAPLDPSV circuit short to groundDamaged EVAP leak detection control moduleDiagnostic Aids: Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory All GO to Pinpoint Test HX . Check Fuse 46 in the rear fuse box on left sidewall in in rear hatch (see owner's manual for location of #46).

Isn't group 90 longer than the bxt67r? The length of the 90/t5 is about 1 1/4 inches longer per Interstate and Motorcraft specs than the 67R. See if there's an extra 1 1/4 in the battery compartment. Even if it fits in the compartment, cables could be an issue. 67R BXT-67R 390 65 8.27 (210) 6.90 (175) 6.90 (175) 30 (13.6) Interstate 90/t5 Length9 1/2Width6 7/8Height6 7/8

There is no switch in the MX module. ForScan should be set to Auto scan. However, you will likely have to uninstall the ForScan App and reinstall it as ForScan Forum says that the first time your vehicle is scanned, your car make and model is detected, the appropriate configuration data is built for your vehicle, and it will not include the MS -CAN if the MS-CAN could not be found on the initial connection to the vehicle (old ELM327 connected only to the HS-CAN). I had to reinstall ForScan. Yes, I'd lose connection also with my old module and older phone frequently. This was a bummer when recording data as I'd have to start over. It was less frequent with my new phone which had a faster processor. So, I think it's a combination slow module and slow phone. The minimum delay of my old module ("Minimal response time (ping) – minimal possible time from the moment request to adapter is sent to the moment the response from adapter is received") was generally 50 msec or greater. The MX is generally under 10 msec. See attachment for how ForScan rates response time. I got in the habit of pulling the old Elm out. So, I'm pulling the MX out also. Supposedly, the MX has a power saver feature so it shouldn't drain the battery. If ForScan is set to autoconnect, it should start scanning when the APP is started up assuming module is plugged in.

Yes, I have the windows free version on my 12" 2-1 . It is nice to have the large screen. But it's too large to mount for easy viewing when driving. However, I used the free version to reset my 12 V Battery Age which is not available on the Smartphone Lite versions.

Received my OBDlink MX module today. It is significantly faster than my old ELM327. I can read the 15 - HS CAN modules and now the 9 - MS CAN modules - GPSM, InstrumentPanelC, AudioControlM, RemoteFunctionActuator, HVAC, DriverDoorM, PassengerDoorM, FrontControlsIM, DiditalAudioCMC, GateWayM.

djc, in reply to monitoring friction braking. Below is a test I did and posted prior on friction brakes and brake score. "Here's an example, one can monitor the left and right front ABS pressure sensors. In preliminary testing, I wanted to see if I could use this data to apply the maximum brake pressure and still score 100% brake score. There was a post / thread very early on where someone wanted an indication of how much brake pedal could be used before friction braking took over and reduced the brake score. The nominal brake pressure readings were under about 7 psi cruising (probably sensor variability). I began to depress the brake pedal to slow down. If the pressure sensor reading didn't change, I scored 100% brake score. As I pressed the brake pedal harder, there was a point where the pressure reading jumped to mid teens PSI. I could not "feel" that the frictionbrakes were applied. The brake score was 96%. " BTW, I broke down and purchased the OBDLink MX module ($80.15) to replace my "generic" bluetooth ELM327. I will now be able to monitor modules on the lower speed CAN without needing a toggle switch. Should have it next week. I noted there are now many generic ELM327 modules that can be purchased with the toggle switch added.

I never saw a value to the VHR. It seemed to me it was of more value to Ford / dealers as I'd always get reminders that it was time your my oil change and so forth. So, I quit running it years ago.

I just picked PIDs from different modules - nothing special. The car was in the garage for an hour after being driven. We reached triple digits that day. Garage was hot and inside the car was even hotter when I decided to check out the new release. So, I picked the interior cabin temp, the internal inverter temp, generator coil temp, and the cylinder head temp to see how hot it was in the garage. We discussed before the resetting of the 12 V battery age (days since I reset it). I always monitor tire pressure. I noted that the battery symbol showed about 25%. So I picked HVB SOC and the HVB displayed SOC and the HVB voltage to see how low it was. Prior to this release, I picked maybe 6-10 items to monitor in about 1/2 the modules and would flip through the modules - about a six step process to switch to a different module. Now I should be able to put virtually all those PIDs on the "ALL" module and simply swipe the sceen to scroll through the data.

Below is data on the coil temps. I did not have ForScan when I ran these tests about 3 years ago. We'll be making a trip to Flagstaff in the next several months. So, I'll capture data on these temps for analysis. Relatively flat road with very slight rolling terrain. No grille covers. ICE at operating temperature Ambient Temp = 90 F AC on at 74 set point 30 Mile Round trip - 20 miles at 67-72 mph with one exit to turn around - 10 miles at 25 - 55 mph with several stops each direction Temperature Range: 140 F < TFT < 148 F 160 F < Motor Coil Temp < 175 F 150 F < Generator Coil Temp < 165 F Motor coil temps were highest at the end of regenerative braking. When high speed cruising, temperatures varied little and were about in the middle of the ranges above.

I believe I posted about the relationship among TFT, the generator coil temp, and the motor coil temp with numbers. IIRC, during regen the motor coil temp climbs quickly above TFT depending on amount of regen and time. You can watch the current (I think inverter but maybe motor, can't recall) for indication of how much regen. Eventually, TFT will climb if the regen is long (going down longer hill). When using the traction motor (88 kW) to propel the car, the event is shorter and motor coil temp doesn't rise much and has little effect on TFT. When charging the HVB with the generator (64 kW), generator coil temp and TFT are fairly stable as the generator is smaller, the battery sustained charge rate is limited to 35 kW, and the control algorithm should operate ICE to efficiently split the power between charging and propelling the car. Thus, charging the HVB via the generator is likely significantly less kW than with regen and hence temps don't increase as much. Bottom line IMO, TFT should be all that needs monitored. However, if TFT seems higher than normal, one can check the other temp sensors including cylinder head, coolant, coil and so forth. I'll see if I can find the post(s) about these coil temps.

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So there is no confusion, the 20% is not the efficiency of the regeneration process: converting the kinetic energy of motion to mechanical energy via the transaxel, to electrical energy via the traction motor, to DC via the inverter, to storage in the HVB, to AC via the inverter, to mechanical energy via the traction motor, and lastly back to kinetic energy via the transaxel to propel the car. The 20% is simply the amount of distance driven provided by the regeneration process over total distance that was traveled. IIRC, there was discussion on how the regen miles and brake score are actually computed and the accuracy of the computation.

I modeled this a few years ago. Shifting into neutral wins. The efficiency of the traction motor, inverter, wiring, HVB would be at best case 95% for the motor (more likely 92%), 97 % for the inverter (more likely 95%), 97% for the HVB (more likely 95%) and the wiring 99%. So, Best Case = 0.95 * 0.97 * 0.99 * 0.97 * 0.99* 0.97 * 0.95 = 81 % and More likely Case = 71%. I also ran regeneration test and did a literature search on efficiency of regeneration. It seems that the capture of kinetic energy and reuse of such energy to propel the car is likely to be less than 70%. IIRC, I got more like 65% efficiency when I ran tests. I believe I referenced the research studies in a prior thread. Also, on steeper, longer hills the HVB will fill up and ICE will be used for engine braking in D. So, I doubt the additional drag on the car when shifting to N would exceed 30%. Of course if you were going down say a 12% grade your speed may pick up such that you have to shift back to D. When I tested shifting to N on the interstates, it takes a fairly steep hill at 75 mph before speed will increase much. A few mph increase will be less than the 30%.

As many know, ForScan is a Smartphone App that allows scanning (via the OBDII port using an ELM327 adapter) of virtually all PIDs for our C-Max. Prior releases of ForScan did not allow scanning PIDs across modules. One could only scan PIDs in one module at a time. Now, ForScan has an "ALL" module that when selected allows choosing PIDs to be scanned from all modules and displayed on the same screen. In addition, there are now self tests that can be run on virtually all modules. Also, the documentation has been significantly updated. Attached is a screenshot of PIDs from several modules - PCM, BCM, BECM, SOBDCM. DON'T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT IT. :)

IMO, the fundamental issue with EVs (and PHEVs) is range vs. battery size (cost) and life. So, if you buy a Tesla 3 with a 50 kWh battery you get 220 mile range. But charging to only 80% reduces range to about 176 miles. So you can select the 75 kWh battery as an option at a price of $9,000 for a range of 310 miles but only 248 miles at 80% charge. Do you opt for the larger battery to extend battery life so that you can drive 220 miles? And you better not drive at 75 mph as the Telsa 3 range with the 75 kWh battery @ 80% charge will likely be around 160 miles (C&D review 200 miles at 100%). $9k buys over 3000 gallons of gas or in our C-Max around 120 k miles of driving. Of course you can always "waste" time charging more often. :)

Sorry to see your flawed rationale in "dumping" your C-Max, Generalbeluga including past trips to Galpin for recalls? and a non-existent transmission recall? But it's your money "out the door". The Forester is a great vehicle - enjoy it. Paul, remember: I buy new golf clubs every few years for "stupid" reasons.

Agreed. I've been on the Energi forum recently and note there are many losing energy capacity as their miles accumulate. Usable EV only energy starts out at around 5.5 kWh when new and has dropped to around 4 kWh and lower for some that apparently Ford calls normal wear and tear and is not covered under warranty. The solutions to lessen the continual loss of battery capacity are practices such as: charge only to 80%, charge no more than once a day, charge only when battery is cool, minimize use of electrical loads, drive slower and so forth. IMO, all reasons NOT to buy a limited range PHEVs or EVs (those where one would need to charge frequently to 100% to get the cost savings benefit of using the HVB). I understand there are those that want to be "green." There is supposedly a class action suit pending similar to the Leaf suit of years ago about warranty coverage of lost capacity. I am happy that I purchased a Hybrid not an Energi in December 2012. :)

Yes, below is a graph that shows I've recorded about 71% SOC a few years ago. I wonder if the usable energy (kWh) is held virtually the same as the HBV storage capacity diminishes from the 1.4 kWh. IMO, it would make sense to allow the algorithms to use the same storage range in kWh over the life of the battery instead of removing the lost capacity from the normal operations. I agree that a normal "good" operating range is in the 38-50% range. That is only about 0.17 kWh when the capacity was at 1.4 kWh. The curve in my initial post shows an average capacity loss of about 0.11 kWh at 160k miles which would equate to about a 8% reduction in the capacity in the 38-50% range. So, the 12 % range would need to be increased by 8% to 13% of the current capacity so that one would not notice any performance differences. At the max storage of around 70%, it would seem that one may not want to add the full 8% as battery degradation would likely accelerate as one would be cycling to a higher capacity if the full 8% were added. So, perhaps the algrorithm makes a more modest adjustment instead of adding the 8% to the max. storage. That may be why the battery fills quicker as the battery degrades. Instead of adding 8% perhaps only half is added and why we see over 70% now on occasion where prior we were seeing upper 60s on occasion. Paul, your car is testament to my hypothesis above as unlike the Energi which looses usable capacity when the battery degrades, our Hybrids apparently do not suffer (performance wise) when the battery degrades.

As many will likely recall, INL has / had four C-Max Hybrid under tests. I recently looked at the the test reports / summaries and graphed the HVB kWh of energy storage vs miles driven as shown in the two attachments below. One attachment is a graph of the average capacity decline / capacity loss of the nominal 1.4 kWh HVB of the four C-Max Hybrid test vehicles. The second attachment is similar to the first except each data point is shown for the four test vehicles. The last graph is similar to the first graph except it if for the Fusion and C-Max Energi test vehicles. The conclusion I draw from the graphs is that the capacity loss for the Hybrid is minimal especially when compared with the Energi at various mileages. The Energis show a capacity loss of about 20% at around 160,000 miles while the Hybrids show about 10% loss at 160,000 miles. A 20% capacity loss (say 1.5 kWh) significantly reduces EV range in the Energi as it directly affects the usable kWh for operation in EV mode. I'm going to look at ForScan to see if there is a way to quantify capacity loss for our Hybrids. Does anyone believe they can "see" a loss of capacity in the Hybrid through some performance measure like miles on EV only, more ICE cycling and so forth. When I was looking to buy a C-Max, I considered the Energi but I was somewhat worried about capacity loss in the Energi given what the Leaf owner's were seeing at that time as it would significantly affect overall FE and thus payback of the additional cost of the Energi over the Hybrid in 2012 when I purchased my C-Max.

duplicate

Owner's manual can be downloaded on line. http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/13cmhom3e.pdf

I posted the following in a prior thread: Below is an excerpt from the service manual. When the car is on, alarms (DTCs) aren't triggered until the voltage falls below 11.5 V and the converter will continue to supply power down to 8 V. But we still don't know the minimum voltage needed start the car. The answer might be the minimum voltage spec. for closing the relay that connects the HVB to the car. A quick search of HV, 12 V relays shows that the minimum operating voltage might be around 75% of rated voltage or 9 V.

1) The battery needs to be charged somewhat by leaving the car on or via a smart battery charger to ensure it will start later. 2) When my 12 V battery was failing, I've charged my 12V battery twice with a charger and it took overnight to fully charge (say 8 hours). Please read the discussion in this thread http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/6770-how-long-did-your-original-c-max-battery-last/ on SOC of the 12 V battery. It seems that to reach 100% SOC by driving or leaving car on is as long and maybe more than using a battery charger. 3) The battery requires no maintenance. 4) The battery is sealed. 5) The battery is in the rear hatch area underneath the floor on the back right side. Lift up the rear lid to the small storage compartment in the rear and remove the small rubber mat and hardboard cover to expose about 1/4 of the battery. Removing the battery requires removing the rear floor cover. 6) The HVB systems require that the control modules be operational in order to power up and connect the HVB to DC/DC converter. The DC/DC converter takes the High Voltage and steps it down to 12 V. A simple switch would need to be wired to a dedicated number of Li-Ion cells to powerup the modules such that the HVB could then be used via the DC/DC converter to run the 12V system. It's another level of complexity with likley safety concerns ($$). Just buy a jump start which would be your auxiliary battery.

That's the inverter on top of ICE that converts HVB DC to 3 phase AC voltage when motors are using power and 3 phase AC to HVB DC when the electric motors are producing power. The DC/DC converter is in the rear near the HVB. It converts HVB DC to 12V DC.