plus 3 golfer

According to C&D the button is like a simple connected jump start from the HVB applying 12V for a few seconds to the 12V battery. Also, C&D notes downsides to Hyundai's approach below. Replacement cost of the 12V battery could be high as it's integrated into the HVB pack. This also begs the question of battery degradation over time and warranty coverage of such degradation. "If there’s a downside to this solution, it’s that there are no accessible 12-volt battery terminals—the battery is sealed under the rear seat—so the Ioniq Hybrid may also be the world’s first production car that can’t be used to jump-start another car. Longevity is another reasonable concern. Hyundai warranties the entire battery pack, including the 12-volt battery, for the original owner’s lifetime, with no restriction on mileage. All subsequent owners are covered for up to 10 years or 100,000 miles. After that, we expect it will cost far more than $100 to replace a custom battery that isn’t designed for easy swapping."

When I timed it and got exactly 10 minutes, I did recall somewhere reading the 10 minutes after battery age reset. Just couldn't recall where. This confirms age matters. :)

I finally looked at ForScan Windows beta FREE version to see if the 12 V Battery Reset function was enabled in the Beta version. It is and I was able to reset the age of my 12 V battery. Now it shows 0 months old. :) SOC was 63%. I'll continue to monitor SOC with the battery age now at 0 months. Forgot to mention, the timeout of the audio system was 10 minutes (almost to the second) after I turned the car off. Prior, it was around 2 1/2 minutes. So, perhaps battery age is also used in determing how long one has to listen to the radio after shutting the car off.

Below is the latest update on the status of the lawsuit. On Feb. 14, 2018, Judge Edward M. Chen overseeing the MyFord Touch case in California federal court issued an opinion that upholds the majority of the claims our firm is bringing on behalf of owners against Ford. We’re pleased with the ruling, as the majority of Ford’s arguments were rejected, and the case remains intact. Because Ford continues to choose to fight claims brought by Ford owners rather than take responsibility, we will take this case to jury trial to bring to light what Ford’s own engineers called ‘lipstick on a pig’ – the dysfunctional and dangerous MyFord Touch system. Ford sold hundreds of thousands of cars over the span of several years with the defective MyFord Touch installed, and it’s time for Ford to be held accountable for this botched infotainment system. Steve W. Berman Managing partner, Hagens Berman

I'd use a fuse tap and plug it into a spare fuse slot or a used slot in the front or rear junction box which are hot all the time. Now just wire up the fuse tap to a compatible plug for your jump start. You could make it easy for your wife by also wiring in a momentary pushbutton on the driver's side and leave the jump start connected all the time. So for a no start, one holds the pushbutton in while starting the car.

Yes, and more so in HEVs and PHEVs but also in ICE cars. Weep holes are nothing to "worry" about. Like BIG ROCCO says, weep holes have been around a long time. Some of us likely drilled weep holes in our mufflers as "knowledgeable" mechanics in the "old" days would recommend weep holes so that our replacement mufflers would not rust out as quickly from the inside due to condensate staying inside the muffler. Prior to caralytic converters, mufflers heated up very quickly and thus evaporated condensate inside the muffler quickly even on shorter trips. After the addition of CCs in the mid 1970's, weep holes began showing up in many OEM mufflers to drain / blow out condensate from the low areas inside the muffler as it took a lot longer for a muffler to heat up with a CC than pre-CC.

Power Outlet in rear is Fuse 27 (Luggage compartment power outlet socket) in rear junction box.

Here's what I believe happens. The O2 sensor heaters ramp up quickly to a temperature above the closed loop heater control temperature. The O2 sensors temperature is then allowed to fall to the closed loop heater control temperature (based on measured impedance) and the O2 sensor temperature (impedance) is now controled around that temperature. The heater is now in closed loop operation and the PCM will enter closed loop fuel operations if other entry conditions are met. The closed loop heater control happens fairly quickly which is likely the 15 seconds or so. But the fuel trim and other monitors do not start operation until closed loop O2 heater operation, specific coolant temperature and certain other paramenters are met. "If the heated oxygen sensors (HO2S) are warmed up and the PCM determines the engine can operate near stoichiometric air to fuel ratio (14.7:1 for gasoline), the PCM goes into closed loop fuel control mode." -service manual. From the Ford OBD System Operation Summary for Plug In and Hybrid Electric Vehicles document: "During closed loop operation, short term fuel trim values are calculated by the PCM using oxygen sensor inputs in order to maintain a stoichiometric air/fuel ratio. The PCM is constantly making adjustments to theshort term fuel trim, which causes the oxygen sensor voltage to switch from rich to lean around the stoichiometricpoint. As long as the short term fuel trim is able to cause the oxygen sensor voltage to switch, a stoichiometricair/fuel ratio is maintained. When initially entering closed loop fuel, SHRTFT starts 1.0 and begins adding or subtracting fuel in order tomake the oxygen sensor switch from its current state. If the oxygen sensor signal sent to the PCM is greater than0.45 volts, the PCM considers the mixture rich and SHRTFT shortens the injector pulse width. When the cylinderfires using the new injector pulse width, the exhaust contains more oxygen. Now when the exhaust passes theoxygen sensor, it causes the voltage to switch below 0.45 volts, the PCM considers the mixture lean, andSHRTFT lengthens the injector pulse width. This cycle continues as long as the fuel system is in closed loopoperation." But, the fuel monitor (and other monitor like the Air/Fuel ratio monitor) has the entry conditions below. When the engine is "too" cold, the PCM will run the air / fuel mixture rich. So, the monitors won't run under 155F as the engine may not be running near the stoichiometric A/F ratio and "incorrectly" trigger a fault condition. "Entry condition...................................Minimum MaximumEngine Coolant Temp ...155F .....230FIntake Air Temp ............-40F ......150FEngine Load .................30%Purge Duty Cycle.......... 0% ........0%Fuel Level...................... 15%" IMO, the computed fuel used would be more difficult to quantify when ECT is less than 155F. Since the OP indicates city driving with stops there's a good chance ICE coolant temperture is under 155 F a lot of the time in very cold weather. OP, you need grille covers to help raise coolant temperatures.

There are two components to computing FE: distance traveled and fuel used. Distance traveled as determined by the car is generally less than actual distance traveled by between by 1% to 2%. Fuel used as computed by the car is generally less than the actual fuel put in the tank and a greater % less than the distance variance. So, your actual FE in mpg will likely be somewhere between 37.9 and 33.5 mpg. Your car is likely operating a good bit of the time in open loop operation which means that fuel / air mixture is not optimized and it is more difficult for the car to estimate fuel being used. IIRC, closed loop operation begins when the coolant temperature reaches around 140- 145 F. Don't worry about how linear the fuel gauge is. I look at the Miles To Empty (MTE) display and gallons used on the FE displays.

I've had the windshield replaced twice on my 2013 in 5 years of ownership. Both times the rock hit about 2/3 up on the passenger side and about 6" from the right edge.

For me (assuming I'm going to keep the car for the life of the tire) is getting the "best bang" for the $. At current and projected gas prices, paying significantly more for "green" tires especially when performance is less than alternatives makes little sense to me especially if I can't get the rated mileage due to the noisy tire / camber issue on the C-Max and I always replace tires prior to reaching 2/32". So, my mileage payback period is shorter in the 40-50 k mile range. So, the Michelins likely wound never return an economic payback to me. I look at tires like I look at solar PV. I didn't put solar PV on two previous homes just to be "green." I added solar because of the simple payback of 3.3 years for the first system and 6.9 years for the second home. Solar PV makes no economic sense on my current home as payback is around 12 years. I know there are some that will add PV without regard to economics as there will be those that want the "greenest" tire for their vehicle regardless of economics or performance. Yes, I saw that General has this new tire. Since I don't need tires, I haven't done any research on it. General makes a GMax AS-03 (may be similar to the 05) which gets poor ratings by CR for noise and ride quality. Also, rolling resistance is rated fair. The Altimax is rated very good in the noise, ride quality, and RR. So, I'd not buy the AS-05s until reviews and data are available.

I got the 98V for the speed rating as we do a lot of interstate driving at 75 - 80 + mph with the car heavily loaded wirh stuff. I recently had the tires rotated at about 8400 miles. Tread depth was virtually the same in each grove across a tire. The backs (which are now on the front) measured a shade over 9/32" deep while the fronts (now on the back) measure a shade under 9/32". So, based on 1/32" tread wear per 8k miles, I could get around the mileage rating of 65k miles if I run them down near the wear bars and the tires stay quiet. But I usually begin looking for tires at about 3.5/32" tread depth or when the tires become too noisy. Now that I have been back in the Phoenix area for 4+ months, it's very apparent that my FE with the Altimax tires is around 5-6% lower than the Michelins. But with a price difference of around $300 a set including sales tax, one can buy a lot of fuel to offset the FE hit of the Altimax tires. And, like I said before, the Altimax IMO is simply a better performing tire than the Michelin. FE isn't everything. :)

See this.

Jack, I don't have the "jumping gizmo" but use my battery charger at home if the car won't "start". The advantage of the jumping gizmo is that if you are away from AC power and the 12 V battery fails to "start" the car, the jumping gizmo will likely save you time to get going again. As a hedge against needing a jumping gizmo, I carry my jumper cables in the compartment under the driver's seat. When my 12 V battery was failing (wouldn't always start next morning), I used my battery charger to charge the battery from the front post on several occassions until I was able to go to the dealer for a battery replacement. In that same under driver seat compartment where I store my jumper cables is room for a tire "tread" patch kit in case I might get a screw / nail in the tread and can't make it to a tire shop or home before the tire might go flat. I will not carry a spare as we travel a lot and it would take up too much room in the hatch area.

If you posed the highlighted red to BITOG website, you'd probably be told things like Mobil 1 sucks, you want to use a group IV or V oil and the list goes on. I think if you used Amsoil or Royal Purple (likely 1.5 X 2 cost of Mobil 1), people on BITOG would say "great choice" of oil and you'd have peace of mind. You are over thinking this. If you are really concerned about oil life (and thus engine life), you can get UOAs done like ptjones, and others which allow one to extend/ shorten the time between oil changes based on the UOA. How often have you heard of engine wear issues because someone used 5W20 blend vs 5W 20 synthetic or conventional oil. Manufacturer's OCI are conservative (for good reason). So, bottom line: follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Ford recommends 0W20 to be used only in 2013-2018 Hybrids per the latest Motorcraft Oil Chart PDF dated 12/2017. IIRC, Ford did not have an oil spec for 0W20 until MY 2014. Hence, the recommendation for MY 2013 was 5W20. The 2014 Owner's Manual shows 0W20 spec with a footnote that 5W20 can be used if 0W20 is unavailable.

I doubt using blends, full synthetic or different viscosity oils will have any significant effect on engine life. The general benefit of using lower viscosity oil in cold weather is the engine will "turn" easier and thus there should be a FE benefit when the engine is cold. The general benefit of using synthetic oil is that one can go longer between oil changes. I would use 0W20 full synthetic. If you really want to get into a debate on oil go to BOB IS THE OIL GUY website.

It's not about blend vs full synthetic. It's about the viscosity ratings. 0W20 vs 5W20 as dealers "might" use either. 0W20 will have a better viscosity index for cold temperatures vs 5W20. If customer doesn't specify, dealer will likely use the cheaper oil blend on their oil change specials. Dealer will charge signifcantly more if customer wants full synthetics. See this older post on oil viscosity as Ford changed the spec on oil for the 2014 MY C-Max to 0W20. I would hope dealers are using 0W20 on MY 2013s.

ETIS is not applicable for the US market. IIRC, it's for the EU. Thus, data may not always be correct. The warranty extension of 5 years from in-service date for the SYNC / MFT is applicable.

Remember that the electric motor can provide virtually instantaneos torque of around 117 lbft (IIRC). So, any increase in torque from ICE using higher octane fuel would likely not be noticed under WOT. I ran tests and recorded data using higher octane gas. Timing does advance significantly using 91 octane. But my seat of the pants sensors couldn't detect and performace improvements with higher octane fuel. But it's your money. Give higher octane fuel a try. :) See below for Key Life Test of HVB.

Best $9000 car you can buy, IMO. Only known costly issue could be bearing failure in the transmission. There are recent posts on this. There's plenty of life left in the powertrain. Based on Ford's key life tests / modeling, the HVB has a long useful life. There's posts on this also. My thoughts: 1) Unless you are "fixated" on FE vs overall economics, use 87 octane as your FE increase with 91 octane (if any) will not pay for the current price difference between 87 and 91 octane gas. 2) With respect to oil, a Ford dealer will use a synthetic blend to meet the Motorcraft oil specification. If you DIY oil changes, you can do full synthetic with filter for less than $30. The synthetic will likely be good for well past 10k miles (based on UOAs by owners). Switching to synthetic will not "harm" ICE at any mileage. 3) Your car should learn new EV+ settings. I've moved three times and have spent time in many other locations for several weeks at a time with many new EV+ settings learned. The algorithm apparently replaces older, not used ones with more recent learned ones. 4) Dealers will repaint front bumper shroud and fix small paint chips and dents. It's normal especially for a car with 74k miles.

Do you have an extended warranty? There is some concern that if the transmission issue is "outside the planetary gear set and two motors" that the 7 yr./100k mile Unique Hybrid Warranty may not apply as Ford now has a transmission kit to replace just the failed bearing / gear that is normally the issue. So, dealer may not have replace the entire transmission and Ford may not cover the kit fix under the Hybrid warranty. Also, you are beyond the 5yr/60k miles "normal" powertrain warranty. Let us know the outcome.

I found this graph below which shows how a Li Ion SOC varies with temperature. Basically, at low temperatures the usable capacity of the battery declines significantly and depends on discharge rate. So, the algorithms will likely limit the amount of discharge resulting in ICE running more at low temperatures. The battery symbol gauge may show a very high SOC, but in reality there is very little usable SOC and ICE will run more than at a higher temperature.

The internal reistance of the HVB at cold HVB temperatures limits the use of the HVB. So, one will see more ICE operation at low temps than at high temps. Internal resistance increases significantly when cold and limits the discharge and charge currents. So, ICE needs to run longer in cold temps than warm temps to achieve the same level of storage. Likewise, when EV is used (discharging), it's likely that ICE will be allocated more of the torque requirements and run more often in cold temps to supply torque to the wheels. However, the higher internal resistance of the HVB should heat up the HV battery faster and thus, limit the amount of time of the above operational constraints to a great extent. Also, operating lithium ion batteries in cold weather reduces cycle life. My guess is that the operational algorithms take all of the above into account. Bottom line: FE sucks in cold temperatures especially when the trips are short - ICE cold, HVB cold, and high air resistance (air density).

Something does seem amiss. I've yet to have a bulb go out in 5 years of ownership. There is a DC/DC converter module that regulates the charging of the 12V battery and supplies power for the 12V system. There is no alternator like a conventional car. The highest voltage I've seen from monitoring the voltage at the converter was 14.8 V when the State Of Charge of the 12V battery was very low. Typically, the charging voltage runs about 14.4 - 14.6V until the SOC gets very high. You may want to monitor the 12V battery voltage while driving by one of the following ways: 1) on your smartphone via ForScan (about $30 for ELM327 OBDII adapter and ForSCan App) see forscan.org 2) on the Engineering Test Mode display available on the left hand dash display 3) on a volt meter that plugs into the cigarette lighter.

It may be because Ford provided updates to MFT which "corrected" plantiffs issues after that build date and there were no other plantiffs with the issues / violations of law that the lawsuit alleges. I believe CSP 12M02 was Ford's response to try to head off the class action suit. One can read the case filings here. The "original complaint filling" is about 45 pages. The last ammended complaint is about 160 pages. The MFT issues are virtually the same ones we discussed here 4-5 years ago.