plus 3 golfer

There has to be reasons the city EPA rating of the Escape (44 mpg) is higher than the C-Max rating (42 mpg). Even the AWD Escape (43 mpg) is rated higher than the C-Max which weighs slightly more than the C-Max. I think the 2.5L ICE has about 10 HP more than the 2.0L. So, at the same given rpm for both Escape and C-Max, the Escape would likely be able to charge the HVB quicker and keep it cool. This might allow more EV operation and enhance FE. Also, one would think that in both that the algorithms would be optimized for efficient charging. Given the extra HP, the Escape could be charged more efficiently by lowering rpm slightly while still charging the HVB similar to the C-Max and taking advantage of a more efficient point on the BSFC curve and thus enhancing FE. Add the higher CdA FE penalty of the Escape to the FE comparison and Ford certainly enhanced something to increase city FE. Perhaps the Escape electric motors and HVB are also more efficient.

OK. I wonder if the car was ever driven through high water as the PCM box is fairly low. Can you get the diagnostic trouble codes? I believe Autozone will read the codes. Does the AC work and then just quit and not blow cold air or are you saying that when the car goes into limp mode the AC quits. Does the fan blow? Have you checked fuses for the AC? Who told you to replace the PCM? If you are tech savvy, for about $30 you can get the FORScan app for smartphones and an adapter to connect to your OBDII port. The App is a scanner / diagnostic tool for Ford vehicles. Search FORScan on the site for many of my posts on it. http://forscan.org/home.html

The code is P0340 for the sensor. See possible causes below. Since it's relatively inexpensive, you might just replace it as checking the circuits becomes cumbersome as one needs to get to the PCM connectors also. Remove the air filter housing (like you are going to change the engine air filter) and you should see the sensor. Lubricate the O-ring when you put the new sensor in. P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 1 Or Single Sensor) Description: This DTC sets when the PCM can no longer detect the signal from the camshaft position 11 (CMP11) sensor. Possible Causes: CMP11 circuit open CMP11 circuit short to ground CMP11 circuit short to voltage SIGRTN circuit open VBPWR circuit open Damaged CMP11 sensor shielding Damaged CMP11 sensor Diagnostic Aids: Harness routing, harness alterations, damaged shielding, or electrical interference from other incorrectly functioning systems may have an intermittent impact on the CMP11 signal. Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory All GO to Pinpoint Test DR .

Remove the left front wheel (driver's side) and the inner fender plastic shield. Then, look to the front of the car. The PCM is behind a cover. Remove the cover and you will see several large connectors on the bottom of the PCM. Look for any water intrusion. IIRC, some have had connector corrosion and some may have had water enter the PCM. Clean everything especially connectors. Put back together and see if the issue goes away. If not, you can buy used PCM that match your PCM part number. You may need to have the module reprogrammed by the dealer or shop. You may be able to buy a used one (at a higher price) that will be programmed to your VIN. Do you know the DTCs? Sounds like the car is going into "limp" mode because of a fail safe condition. It could simply be bad connections. How many miles on car? Any front end accidents? Bottom engine cover in place? Where do you live? Original owner? Is your 12 V battery in good health?

Exactly, the CdA of the Prius is significantly lower than the C-Max. Also, the additional weight of the C-Max contributes significantly to the C-Max RLHP at lower speeds. You’ve shown that lowering the Cd of the C-Max, the CdA does significantly lower the C-Max RLHP and significantly improve FE. Even with your aero mods, the C-Max CdA is still likely greater than the Prius. The bottom line is that there is no evidence that the C-Max algorithms are inferior (as Tim suggests used Prius software for larger C-Max engine) to the Prius with respect to the hybrid systems and are the causal factor of “why the C-Max doesn’t get good MPG”.

Also, one must remember that that the rpm of ICE, generator, motor and wheels have a physical relationship: When ICE is spinning, 3.55 = (motor rpm + generator rpm) / ICE rpm When ICE is not spinning, -0.995 = generator rpm / motor rpm For stock wheel / tires and 2.57 final drive ratio, 9 = wheel rpm / motor rpm So, when driving, these physical relationships must hold true with respect to rpm. But, the torque relationship among the physical components may not follow these physical relationships. Torque demand changes based on driver input and road conditions (up / down, surface, and weather). Torque demand is met by ICE and the motor. So, the algorithms determine how best to match demand with supply taking into account physical limitations mentioned above plus the HVB. The easiest way to get a vehicle to operate at a more efficient point on the BSFC is to shift to a higher gear or reduce the final drive ratio on a conventional car. Thus, ICE will spin at a lower rpm and presumably at a more efficient point on the BSFC curve for a given torque demand. However, it's not quite that easy for the C-Max or Prius because of the physical relationships. Could a numerically lower gear ratio improve C-Max fuel economy at higher speeds where one could hold the generator at zero rpm? Probably but what happens at slower speeds with that lower gear ratio. But, the C-Max does have the capability to in essence, shift to a higher gear. For example at about 72 mph (motor rpm about 9000 rpm), the algorithms do via software effectively lower ICE rpm to achieve an effective final drive ratio of 2.0:1 from the fixed final drive ratio of 2.57. ICE would normally spin at around 2500 rpm (gen rpm =0) with the ratio fixed at 2.57. But by spinning the generator around -2000 rpm, ICE rpm drop to around 2000 rpm. From the first equation (relationship above), ICE rpm = (motor + gen)/3.55 = (9000-2000)/3.55 = 1972 rpm This would be akin to an overdrive gear in a conventional vehicle of 0.8:1 or a 20% reduction (1-500/2500) in the final drive gear ratio. Attached is a graph I did several years ago showing the above.

The above data was posted a long time ago by the author. Bottom line is that the 2013 Prius has a Road Load HP that is lower than the C-Max by around 32% at 20 mph dropping to around 23% at 80 mph as shown on the attached graph. So, one would expect the Prius to get around 25 to 30% better FE under normal cruising conditions than the C-Max all other things being equal. But according to the data by Tim, this is not the case as indicated by the table of Tim's data below. This suggests that the software algorithm for the C-Max is "tuned" to achieve FE and "beats" the Prius tuning or perhaps the Toyota M/G set can't operate in negative split mode (generator reducing ICE rpm by speeding up to keep rpm to wheels / vehicle speed constant) like the C-Max can due to operating limitations. There is a physical connection between ICE, MG1, and MG2. At 65 mph and likely higher, the Prius apparently can achieve an equivalent FE based on its lower RLHP as shown in the table below. Fuel Economy (mpg) MPH 45 55 65 2013Prius 75 65.1 57.5 C-Max 74.7 57.5 48 % diff 0% 13% 20% Here's the link to the old thread on this. At that time, most were unaware of how Ford "blew it" on the EPA fuel economy estimates and how the RLHP coefficients from coast down measurements changed. So, the natural assumption was that tuning was off or final drive ratio was wrong. Tim's post below was prior to the final correction of coefficients in 2014. Tim also did not record data for analysis to help understand how both cars were operating. All we see are four points at a specific time (scan gauge) and he doesn't have the BSFC curve for the C-Max.

The 2016 C-Max brochure shows Sync 3 as an option on the SE model but standard on the SEL. The standard for the SE shows as Sync (no indication of version) which likely is more or less not Sync 2 or Sync 3 but perhaps a variant. Brochure.pdf

Yes, the only reason I knew about this is I frequented the old Energi site. There was discussion on making sure one got the free modem upgrade prior to the 5 year expiration date. If Ford support told uhsarp he has to pay, he is likely past the 5 year date as they have the records. uhsarp, did you take your car to a dealer or purchase the car prior to the 5 year date? If the car was serviced by a dealer when you owned it prior to the 5 year date, the CSP says: “Dealers should ensure that customers are aware of the impending loss of MyLincoln Mobile or MyFord Mobile service.“ Perhaps, you can argue that the dealer didn’t inform you of this and Ford should, as goodwill, cover the modem replacement. Good luck.

Have you seen this. Does your Energi still qualify? SB-10094770-2532.pdf

Nice write up. The fundamental issue facing owners of vehicles whose HF35 transmissions fail will be that most likely will not have the wherewithal (or want to do) what you, Snowstorm, and Stratosurfer did to reduce the dealer cost of $7k+ by up to 2/3. Spending around $2500 makes sense especially if one can get a 3 year warranty but spending around $7500 on the C-Max with over 100k miles and likely 6+ years old is questionable.

One should connect the positive of a tender / charger to the 12 V positive terminal of the battery beneath the Floor of the hatch or the positive post under hood. The negative should be connected to a chassis ground either the ground post under hood or the chassis ground lug to the left of the 12 V battery (black cable attached to lug) never to the negative post of the 12 V battery. The negative cable from the battery terminal to the chassis ground lug has a BMS sensor which measures current flow into / out of battery. The tender / charger current flow to battery is needed for the BMS to work as intended. So, one does not want to bypass this sensor by connecting either a load or a tender/charger negative directly to the battery terminal.

The C-Max 12 V battery is charged by the HVB via the DCDC converter. So, if one is going to jump start another vehicle with the C-Max, the C-Max simply has to be in the ready to drive mode (engine doesn't need to be running) . If the HVB is depleted to the “ICE on” threshold, ICE will start and run appropriately to charge HVB. As I've said prior, I really don't see an issue with damaging any C-Max modules whether the ICE is running or not but I won't do it (especially in very cold weather) as I see a chance of blowing the DCDC converter 12 V fuse. Also, the negative post under hood is chassis ground. The jumped battery will look like a load since the current supplied by the converter to the other vehicle does not flow through the ground wire of the C-Max battery. Thus, the converter will hold set point voltage (as determined by the PCM) based on the BMS of the C-Max . Charging the C-max battery for 3 or 30 minutes after jumping another vehicle will add little charge to the C-Max battery. Also, modules have transient protection built into them (assume Ford follows standards) including reverse polarity, jump start, load dump, cranking, and so forth based on ISO and other standards. Of course, one could perhaps exceed the protection capability. For example, a quick search shows that a standard over voltage protection is 42 V (assume transient like load dump) and 24 V for 4.3 seconds. For example, what would happen if I were to use one of my 12 V golf cart batteries to jump my C-Max and mistakenly jumped it across 2, 3, or 4 of the golf cart batteries in series. ??

Looks like a large N95 respirator!!!

Also, I forgot to mention that the four 12 V battery PIDs that are used to determine Ah losses were also zeroed out with the foregoing reset. See the PID cumulative charge and discharge definitions below.

OK, I reset my 12 V battery age from 753 days to zero days by doing the following: 1) Placed car in ACC mode by pushing start button without foot on brake. Again, it may also work in ready to drive mode. In ACC mode, the DCDC converter does not charge the 12 V battery (set point voltage is 10.6 V). The DCDC converter sets the voltage at 13.0 V which basically is a float charge to keep the 12 V battery from discharging. 2) Operated high beam switch 5 times. 3) Pumped brake pedal 3 times. 4) 12 V battery age changed to 0 days. I did not notice anything else happening on the dash to indicate acceptance of the change of battery age. Maybe I missed it I then put car in ready to drive mode and am currently recording FORScan data. I will analyze data and compare to data I recorded around 6 months ago after about 50 minutes of recording. The first point noted was the Set Point Voltage appeared to be higher than previous even though my current SOC is several % higher than previous. I may start a new thread comparing results and adding to those results as the 12 V battery ages. Like I said in other threads this is the second time I zeroed out battery age. My current battery will be 5 years old in June 2020.

Yes, I recall reading it somewhere but can't find it readily here. I believe you put car in ACC mode (ready to drive might also work), flash high beams 5 times and then push brake pedal five times (maybe three times). I'll try it tomorrow and report back as I've reset my battery age once prior to zero with FORScan about 2 years ago as dealer did not do it with my new battery install in June 2015. Yesterday, my SOC was 57% when I drove car after 100 mile round trip (a little less than 2 hours of driving /charging time).

Battery Age reset was added to the Android and IOS FORScan lite versions.

I misread the first post as I thought you wanted to jump the C-Max. You want to jump start another car with the C-Max. See my post below. The C-Max battery IIRC is rated at 390 CC Amps. The DCDC converter puts out a max of 145 Amps. I wouldn’t want to crank another car with a dead battery for very long with the C-Max unless it were an emergency. I think the risk is blowing the a fuse.

Just like a normal car. (+ to +) and ( - to - ) or ( - to chassis ground). Use the positive post (red cap on it) and negative post (no cap) located under the hood OR in the lift back area under the right cover on the floor, use the exposed positive terminal of the battery and the chassis ground stud to the left of the battery with black wires to it. The negative terminal of the battery is not exposed.

You can check whether the BMS was reset by timing how long the BCM will allow the radio to be on after car is turned off. Do this: Start car, ready to drive. Turn on radio. Turn car off but do not open doors. Stay in car until radio shuts down. Should take 10 minutes exactly if battery is new and battery monitoring was reset.

Great news. The SA or Tech should have called / pressed Ford prior as checking the health of the 12 V battery is standard protocol especially for module control errors. Customer should not have to do it. I had thought about a bad 12 V battery but assumed dealer would have tested 12 V battery as Ford "knows" (and dealer should know) that a "bad" 12 V battery can cause weird issues in non-hybrid cars. The question then is: did dealer reset the 12 V battery age when the new battery was put in? It should be listed separately on the SO as they have to use their tool to do it. There are many dealers that fail to do such. If they did not reset the age to zero, the PCM charging algorithm will continue to use the computed, accumulated 12 V battery losses (via Battery Monitoring System) in the 12 V battery charging regime. The PCM determines the set point voltage to be used in the charging regime when driving the car and also when charging based on current SOC of 12 V battery and the Ah capacity of new battery less Ah losses. What I have found via monitoring data is that, if battery age is not reset when a new battery is installed, the PCM will over time charge to a lower State of Charge than the actual capacity of the battery. For example, a new MotorCraft 67R battery has a new capacity of around 43 Ah. When my first battery failed and a new one was installed in 6/2015, dealer did not reset battery age (I didn't know about this at the time). After several years I noted that my 12 V battery SOC was very low (single digits to mid teens). So, my battery was only being charged to around a 3-6 Ah capacity under normal driving. I could charge battery up for about 24 hours and SOC would reach around 60+% over time the SOC would drop back to the lower values. I now had FORScan and noted my battery age had not been reset. So, the PCM was using the accumulated, calculated battery losses from around 12/2012 until mid 2017 or around 1600 days of losses and thus was not maintaining the battery to the proper level (new capacity less accumulated losses). About 9 months or so later, I found that FORSCan added the battery age reset function and I reset battery age to zero days even though my battery was already over 2 years old at that time. Currently, my SOC is being maintained at around 36% SOC. My battery is now almost 5 years old. In the document I attached previously, look at pages 138 through 141 (see excerpts below). The highlighted red text is key as even when charging the HVB via the wall, the PCM determines the set point charging voltage. "The Battery Monitoring Sensor continuously monitors the condition and the state of charge of the 12V battery and provides the BCM with this information. The Battery Monitoring Sensor also estimates losses in the battery capacity over time. The Battery Monitoring Sensor should only be reset when the battery is replaced. It is urgently recommended that the replacement battery has the exact same specification as the original battery. If it does not, the accuracy of the Battery Monitoring Sensor outputs will be compromised. ... Switch S2 detection is determined by the pilot signal voltage change. If the AC voltage input is within range the SOBDM enables 12V battery charging and wakes up the BECM. While waiting to enter high voltage charging state, the SOBDM sets low voltage output to a minimum of 12.6V until it receives a low-voltage setpoint from the PCM via HEV HS-CAN. The SOBDM is ready for high voltage power conversion when it transmits a charger-ready message via the HEV HS-CAN"

If one now tries to access the Energi forum, one is redirected to this forum. So, maybe the admins are still going to combine forums or they gave up and simply redirect all to this forum.

I forgot to attach the following Ford document. A lot to read but a lot of good info on the C-Max. Once, you get the code you can search the document to see if the code is referenced in the document. OBDSM1503_HEV.pdf

For those that don't know, the TCM is the large metal box on top of the transmission with the high voltage and cooling circuit connections. MSRP looks like around $3500. Used around $250-$1000. Also, a quick search of TCM DTCs that IMO would be considered a "controller error" are shown below. All require replacing the TCM is self test fails.