plus 3 golfer

Yes, but I think the point is that after Ford's adjusted EPA numbers, the fuel savings $ were a lot less than a prospective buyer would have expected to see from original numbers. So, they would buy a Prius or Honda Insight and enjoy more FE savings and avoid the negatives of the C-Max at that time (read JD Power and Consumer Report customers' ratings / satisfaction surveys at that time) - points 2 and 3 in my previous post. I doubt most consumers actually test drove a C-Max after the correct numbers in mid 2014. So, a prospective consumer would likely pick the Prius / Insight. IMO, the C-Max looses in MPG but the driving experience of the C-Max far exceeds the Prius and Insight at that time. I test drove a Prius models for several years prior to buying the C-Max hoping that the driver experience of a Prius would change. It never did and I bought the C-Max. And of course, Ford did little to change the perception of the C-Max to the consumer after the correct numbers. How does Ford now change consumer perception that one should forget about FE comparisons and base ones buying decision on it's a better car than the Prius V in virtually all other aspects but FE. Ford initial attack / marketing campaign of beating the Prius in FE with clever ads / commercials is at fault not declining gas prices.

Agree, transmission issue had virtually nothing to do poor sales and value. Ford’s 1) two blunders in getting the EPA numbers right, 2) poor performance of SYNC, and 3) many early CSPs and Recalls requiring many trips to dealer were “3 strikes” against the C-Max which no marketing effort could overcome. Sales plummeted. Also, see my most after the second FE adjustment. Although original owners were given compensation for the two FE adjustments, it wasn’t nearly enough to cover loss in resale value. Had the 47/47/47 original EPA MPGs been correct, (which were corrected twice - 2013 and 2014) to current 42/37/40 numbers - a 15% decline in overall FE savings from original, I believe the C-Max Hybrid sales would have continued at high levels even with falling gas prices in the early years (FE savings a less important variable in the purchase decision). Looking at the chart below, you can “see” the sharp drop in sales after the corrections. The other two strikes were mitigated / “fixed” by MY 2014/15. And, absent these strikes, the value of used C-Max hybrids would likely be higher now.

SM isn’t any help as all it says is to check for and fix any other DTCs in APIM. Since the APIM (aka SYNC module) is rather expensive to replace, I’d have the dealer look at it to document issue. If the APIM should fail shortly after warranty, you have a case that it was problematic prior to expiry of warranty.

Use the funnel located under the lift up cover in the hatch area on the left side to add gas/ additives.

Here are pics of underneath my rear showing the support posts which are missing in your pics. PID = Parameter Identification code. OBD-II PIDs (On-board diagnostics Parameter IDs) are codes used to request data from a vehicle, used as a diagnostic tool. ... Manufacturers also define additional PIDs specific to their vehicles.

Yes, you can disconnect the microphones. There is a connector under the glove box. It’s easy to do. Look at link below.

No lug nut wrench came with the purchase of my 2013 C-Max. Get a 25 inch breaker bar. $20 at Harbor Freight and less with a 20% off coupon. Order solid SS lug nuts as many of us have done.

Yes, the size of the HVB is 7.6 kWh. Do an internet search on the Energi specs, if you don’t believe that. Problem is people continue to use a 5.6 kWh “usable” range for EV only operation as the denominator in quoting %capacity loss from new or as one poster wrongly stated “losing 72.5% of the storage capacity in 6 years“ is not correct. If the poster lost 72.5% of his storage capacity, his car would likely only operate as a hybrid. 5.6 kWh comes off the top of the 7.6 kWh. That leaves about 2 kWh for hybrid use and buffer area after the 5.6 kWh is depleted. As battery fade occurs (degradation), the capacity lost is from the 7.6 kWh to a lower number. The % loss in capacity is the the capacity lost divided by 7.6 kWh. The %loss in usable range is not the same as % capacity loss.

Mass. is one of them. I think you can go to Ford website and check your eligibility. https://www.myfordtouchclassaction.com/

5.11? What version do you currently have? A quick search indicates 5.11 is for non MFT. Go to the System Information Screen on your display and check version. I have 3.08 installed and the latest version is 3.10 which is available for dealer free install for states that were in the Sync / MFT class action lawsuit.

I assume you starred the car (ready to drive). If so , your 12 V battery is OK and the DCDC converter is supplying power to all modules. What Sync version do you have? Some older versions had connection issues with certain newer phones.

So, if you got 40 km / charge when new but have lost EV only capacity over time, you may have charged to 100% over 2000 times to get to 96 k EV. Do you charge more than once a day? Do you charge at 120 V or 240 V? Lithium ion battery degrade slightly every time one charges to 100%. The C-Max HVBs are NMC which have a cycle life (fall below 80% of new capacity) of between about 1000 to 2000 cycles when charged to 100% depending on operating conditions. There has to be something that has caused your significant degradation.

Raja an Energi owner has many great posts on the Energi forum on how to operate / charge an Energi to mitigate HVB degradation. Energi owners need that site to be merged into this site or it to be resurrected. In general, one needs to monitor HVB temperature and operate and charge vehicle so the temperature of HVB stays under certain levels, “eliminate“ EV driving at high speeds / high power demand (use ICE instead), and reduce the frequency of cycling HVB to full charge.

Bluetooth is part of the APIM (aka, Sync). If you disconnect the battery, disconnect the ground lug just left of the battery positive terminal.

It appears you have lost about 50% of the new nominal HVB capacity of 7.6 kWh or 3.8 kWh. This indicates that the capacity available for EV only has dropped from around 5.6 kWh, when new, to now around 1.8 kWh = (5.6 - 3.8). This is consistent with your EV range of around 11 km. Unfortunately, Ford does not warrant HVB degradation, did not educate consumers as to what affects battery degradation, and neglected to provide sufficient “design” protection to mitigate battery degradation under “harsh” operating conditions. The consequence of such to unaware owners can be significant loss of EV only range. But, the HVB is still fine for hybrid operation. Since Ford will do nothing, you can replace the HVB but I doubt the economics will pay unless you change how you operate the car and plan to drive 100k miles or so.

Pulling fuse 79 should reset it. See the thread below showing FORScan reset and test functions of various modules including the APIM with FORScan. It would be interesting to run the test programs when something like a Bluetooth issue, radio issue and the like happens to see if the issue would be flagged and whether the reset function would clear the issue.

You will need the HVB charged above 1/2 way on the battery symbol and a level or preferred slightly downhill maybe mile stretch of road. Note the chevron symbols above and below the battery symbol which indicates whether the HVB is charging or discharging. To charge HVB, get up to a higher speed and then use regeneration by applying the brakes gradually to come to stop. a 1/4 mile downhill exit ramp works great. Once HVB has sufficient charge, accelerate briskly (you want to use ICE) up to higher speed say 55 -60 mph on level road (preferable slight downgrade) . Then back off the accelerator pedal slightly until the bottom chevron is pointing down meaning your in EV mode. Keep pedal at that position or you may have to continually back off to keep battery symbol showing discharging. You might be able to drive a mile or so at 55 mph in EV mode. Also, there is a screen labeled Empower in the left hand display window. It will show the engine on / off threshold level in kW as a outlined circle graph. EV will fill the outline in blue up to the kW it's operating at. So, if you watch the screen, you can control the amount of EV via the accelerator pedal. If the blue EV reaches the top of the "ICE on" or if the "ICE on" threshold drops to the blue because the HVB level is dropping, ICE will come on. Download a C-Max owner's manual for a more detailed explanation. This is the method I use, if I want EV only for whatever reason.

When I drive my C-Max there is no whine whatsoever at any speed 5 mph to 85 mph (windows up or down) and I've been listening carefully from pre 100k miles to current mileage or about the last 3 years. According to many a slight whine is likely an indication of pending failure. Make sure you run in EV at higher speeds too (just in case).

The transmission issue does not appear to be mileage related as they have failed early and later. However, Ford says that under "certain driving" conditions, the failure can occur. Only Ford knows under what conditions. Search under members stratosurfer and snowstorm as they have had recent failures both with excess of 100k miles. Obviously, the likelihood of a transmission failure increases with use and will ultimately fail. The 12V battery issue seems to plague some cars more than others. Ford has issued TSBs and a CSP to look for potential wiring issues several years ago which were causing most of the 12V issues at that time. I believe most of the issues now involve a module not going to "sleep" and remaining active thus draining the battery. Once drained and recharged, the problem goes away until the next time it happens. A common symptom is the radio locks up (APIM usually) and drains the battery sometimes overnight (depends on SOC of battery). The "fix" is to pull fuse 79 under the glove box as soon as the radio locks up and reinsert which resets modules. Unless the APIM (or other module), fails completely, it's generally not worth replacing a module as it may be a different module causing the issue associated with the radio. I've had my radio inoperable once (in over 7 years of ownership) in the last year and pulled fuse 79 to reset it. As member fbov has said: I hate to say it but the dead battery issue happens to everyone. I am now a "believer". My C-Max has been one of the best cars I've owned. I have never done anything but routine maintenance. If ones transmission should fail, one can likely get a used, later MY transmission (which may have been corrected for the issue) installed for around $3k or maybe less.

1) No major problems except transmission - search for many recent posts. Some may have a 12V battery drain - search for posts. 2) All your warranties have expired. You should get well over 250 k miles out of HVB. HVB replacement is very rare. 3) Brake flush? 4) The rotors will rust (depending on your climate) before you'll wear pads / rotors out. Mine in AZ look like new with minimal pad wear - 125k miles. 5) Trade in value is exceptionally low for the C-Max in general. So, could your find one for less? - maybe

If it vibrates with ICE and at idle, then transmission / engine mounts are suspect. How about this SSM. ? SSM 44253 - 2013 C-MAX / 2013-2014 Fusion and MKZ Hybrid/Energi - Powertrain Clunk/Whine - Bonus Bolt In Engine Mount Some 2013 C-MAX and 2013-2014 Fusion and MKZ Hybrid/Energi vehicles may exhibita tactile vibration or clunking/thumping noise when braking or when tipping in or out of the throttle, or a powertrain/transaxle whine primarily when braking. This may be caused by a foreign object such as a nut or bolt lodged in one of the powertrain mounts causing a ground out condition to the body - either the RH engine mount or the LH transmission mount. To access the LH engine transmission mount, remove the 7B012 Secondary On Board Diagnostic Module (SOBDMC) and the upper half of the mount in order to inspect for this foreign object and possible grounding condition.

My steering wheel has never “vibrated”with ICE in warmup mode. Do you mean the steering wheel moves back and forth? Does it vibrate with ICE starting up if starting ICE by pushing accelerator to floor in Park? Or do you have to be moving? The steering is electronic (EPAS). EPAS has self correcting steering usually due to crowns in road to keep the track straight. I wonder if it’s a failing steering rack / position sensor (electric motor is part of rack) which may be exacerbated by ICE running when cold in warmup mode.

With the Ford DVD (at least the one I purchased several years ago), it includes all MY 2012, 2013, and 2014 Ford and Lincoln vehicles. One other point on P219A, check the torque on your spark plugs. I changed my plugs at about 104k (70k+ ICE miles) and found one plugs was certainly not torqued to spec. You could see on the threads that gases were traveling up the threads and "baked" on the bottom of the insulator. I believe I could have removed the one plug with virtually no torque arm on the socket. The other three didn't seem tight either. I never had any CELs. But I now have 124k miles on and I believe my FE went up slightly (1/2 mpg minimum and maybe a full mpg). Since the code is measuring imbalance of A/F of the cylinders, perhaps a loose plug in one cylinder could trigger this.

In looking at your photos, it appears that perhaps the bumper cover has been replaced (accident). There should be plastic support pieces that attach the rear bumper cover to the body. You can see in your photos that they were broken off. Also, the photo that shown the inner right side of the bumper cover with what appears to be 2 holes in plastic projections from the cover for attachment to something? are not on the OEM bumper cover. There are no holes. On the same photo you can see on the lower rear of the cover an attachment hole. This is where there should be a plastic piece that attaches to the bumper cover and to the body. The other side is similar. Bottom line, the vehicle probably was in a rear end collision and OEM were not used in the repair. There is no shield anywhere.

I use FORScan on an Android Smartphone, IPad pro 11, and a MS Surface Pro 7 (free Windows version). You can monitor and record virtually all Ford PIDs as one drives and after the fact, analysis the recorded data in a spreadsheet. I believe all versions now have test functions for various modules. IMO, FORScan is worth it just to monitor data like tire pressure, state of charge of 12 V battery, misfires, spark advance, charging voltage / current of 12 V battery, current in/out of HVB and so forth. In addition there is a Battery Monitoring System reset function after replacing 12 V battery and testing functions for various modules. In addition to FORScan, by buying the Service Manual on DVD or downloading it from EBAY (this is where I purchased my 2013 / 14 manual several years ago) and downloading the OBD System Operation Summary for Plug In and Hybrid Electric Vehicles manual (I've posted these as attachments many times), one can gain significant incite into the operations of the C-Max. Unfortunately I have yet to find a comprehensive list of all PIDs currently available in FORScan for the C-Max. One must connect FORScan to the vehicle via an ELM327 or other compatible device. Once connected, FORScan reads the vehicle data and then downloads the PIDs for selection. I would have to take Screenshots of the PIDs for a complete list. Below are screenshots of the PIDs for the Parking Aid Module.