plus 3 golfer

LOL, same here. Used the wipers Saturday (1.46 inches in my rain gauge). Don't recall the last time I used them but the previous time it rained was mid-December 2013. Also, have yet to add washer fluid.

Yes, I use it all the time and virtually never have to touch the brakes on long descents. It's better than downshifting / upshifting a conventional transmission when descending as engine rpm will change (up /down) to maintain speed. I also shift to L if I'm coming to a sharp curve and need more engine braking to reduce speed. Then, when coming out of the curve, shift to D and disable hill assist to pick up speed again.

Misfire codes (especially in multiple cylinders) are generally bad fuel, deposits causing pre-ignition (ignition before the spark not knocking),or deposits on valves preventing proper sealing. If is turns out to be deposits I'd make sure to use a fuel with high detergents or a fuel injection cleaner like Techron periodically. For the last 10+ years or so I always use top-tier gas or gas stations that advertises that the detergent in their gas is X times the EPA minimum requirements like Costco fuel. Before I began using top-tier fuel, I developed misfires in my 2000 Passat V6 at 12k miles. The dealer had the BG system to clean the engine of deposits (they did it under warranty). VW subsequently issued a TSB on misfires and recommended using top-tier gas. I have also had misfires on several other family members cars and about once a year treat with a double dose of a Techron product (which based on my experience works). Costco occasionally has Pro-Gard® Fuel Injector Cleaner at a very good price.

IIRC, the hydrid has 76 cells in series. The curve is not for a C-Max cell but only to demonstrate the shape and discharge capacity vs temp. But, say 4.15 V per cell would be about 315 V max. I doubt the PCM would allow the voltage to get anywhere near 150 V on the low end. If the battery were cold, the operation of using the battery would likely be severely restricted until the battery warmed up. Once the battery is warm, one still wants the operation to stay fairly far away from the knee of the curve. For example, at 25 C and above you might want to operate down to 35% SOC (65% discharge on curve) which looks like about 3,75 V per cell or about 285 V. So, 300 V looks like a good average voltage for the hybrid battery.

Measuring SOC is a challenge for the engineers. We don't know the algorithm used. The following is what I have gleaned from my research. If someone finds something to the contrary, please post. IMO, the reason the SOC increases after the car is shut down is not related to temperature change but discharge rate change. There is actually more available capacity in the battery at higher temperatures than lower temperatures as indicated in the discharge curves in the figure below for lithium ion battery. So, as the battery cools one would see less capacity not more. One should not confuse battery degradation or capacity loss due to high operating temperatures (charging / discharging) over time (like the Leaf with no active battery cooling) with SOC. Under a higher discharge rate, cell voltage and battery capacity will be lower than under a very low discharge rate. There have been studies and many papers written on this subject. Simplistic algorithms might rely heavily on cell voltage in determining SOC. More complex algorithms will accumulate discharge / charge current over time along with the voltage in estimating SOC. IMO, after the car has been off for a length of time (discharge rate is virtually zero), voltage and capacity will likely increase. So, depending on the algorithm SOC will likely show a higher SOC after the car is off for a period of time than when operating the car at higher discharge rates. Also, it's possible that using EV+ might yield a lower SOC displayed as there might be a longer / higher discharge rate for the last 1/4 mile or so. In any event, I see no reason for concern. It certainly appears that Ford is very conservative in using the battery capacity. My SOC usually ranges from about 42% to 54% in normal driving.

Do you recall the exact trouble code(s) you got? Does the Scan Gauge show intermittent codes or just hard codes? Does ICE stumble on acceleration or is it a constant rough running? It could also be spark-related causing rough running - bad coil, plug. How about deposits in the #2 cylinder. Serious to me would be something along the lines of cam, valves, timing and so forth. I would think once the techs run through the diagnostics and perhaps swap components among cylinders they can isolate the problem and hopefully its cause quickly. Good luck with the dealer.

The viscosity of Mobil 1 5W20 (see below) is slightly "thicker" than the Motorcraft 5W20 full synthetic shown in previous post. Viscosity, @ 40ºC, cSt 49.8 Viscosity @ 100ºC, cSt 8.9 Viscosity Index 160

If you review the C-Max transaxle, it does not operate in "series" mode (engine spinning MG1 to charge HVB and MG2 propelling MG2 independently of engine and MG1 operation). The engine, MG1(starter motor / generator), and MG2 (traction motor) are physically connected. Whenever the car is moving MG2 is always spinning. Because of the physical connection of the 3 components, either MG1, the engine, or both must also be spinning along with MG2 when moving. So one cannot simply operate / optimize the engine efficiency (most efficient part of the Brake Specific Fuel Consumption curve) in charging the battery like one can do on the Volt and then let the electric traction motor (MG2) propel the car. So, the optimization of the powertrain algorithm in the C-Max is significantly more complex as there are three major dependent components in the C-Max to control. Operator input and driving conditions also play a significant role. One cannot tune the C-Max for series operation. One can likely detune certain inputs with an eco-button so as to kick in ICE later, less frequently, and with less power / torque but there would likely be a performance penalty. The best "tune" is using one's brain and right foot. The algorithm cannot "see" the conditions ahead. One other point and that is all energy used in the C-Max Hybrid comes from the gasoline in the tank. You cannot "not" run ICE. The three coaches (acceleration, braking, and cruising) let you know whether you've done a pretty good job of optimizing fuel economy for your driving style. You'll likely have to change your driving style to maximize fuel economy (accelerate moderately, braking to 100% score, and reducing your average speed), Most "hypermiling" methods sacrifice to some extent time for better fuel economy. There is likely a different "sweet spot" given time as a factor for every driver. For example, I'm not going to drive on secondary roads at lower speeds as opposed to the freeway at higher speeds but I might drive the speed limit on the freeway as opposed to keeping up with traffic at 5-10 mph over the speed limit.

You select it on MY VIEW on the left display. There's video's on the display. Someone recently linked to them.

I'm not sure which tabs the above are but Paul as I suggested to you before I am using the 3M Dual Tab VHB UV SJ3560 high temperature tabs along with the 3M VHB - Very High Bond Foam Tape 4655 (which looks like the same stuff you use but don't know with certainty) for my grille covers. The tabs are the same ones that are sold for the EZ passes for attaching to vehicles. I also use the SJ3560 tabs for frameless solar screens (sunshades) for my home instead of a metal frame to attach to the window frame. Using the tabs reduce the DIY cost considerably of building quality frames for the sun shade fabric. Lots of sun and high Phoenix temperatures haven't affected the tabs used on my grilles covers or solar sunscreen yet. I use both the 1/2" and 3/4" tabs for the screens. I use the 3/4" (trimmed slightly) to fit between the raised grille ridges for the covers.

I had my windshield replaced last week by Safelight with the Ford Carlite Solar glass with rain sensor. Two techs showed up at my home and had the windshield replaced in about one hour. Tech said there is no other windshield but the OE. The techs out of the office nearest me said they have replaced several C-Max windshields recently. It makes me wonder if the C-Max windshield is more susceptible to cracking given it's size as I very seldom see a C-Max on the road. In fact, the lady gas attendant today at Costco ask me what is a C-Max as mine was the first she's seen. Fortunately, I opted for full glass coverage on the C-Max as normally I carry $1000 deductible on comprehensive. Safelight's receipt show the charges below. For comparison, my 2009 Jetta Tdi replacement rain sensor windshield ran about $225 out the door a two year ago . Windshield - $265 (list $715) Install kit - $30 Labor - $124 Total -$419 + tax

Axle ratios have been showing up on 2014s on ETIS as 2.57 for several weeks now although I did see one that said 2.27 which I assume was a typo. Fordparts.com shows the same part numbers for the eCVT and differential on 2013 and 2014 MYs. You can also get the build spec from an online subscription to the service manual which shows the build codes which ETIS doesn't. So, I would think that the description shown on ETIS could be the same but the actual build code might be different. Also, I believe EPA updates the fuel cost used in the fuel calculations to reflect current fuel price trends. Here's my build data with my VIN blacked out. Someone with an online subscription needs to post a detailed build sheet for a MY 2014 SEL base model for comparison. 2013 C-Max Detailed Vehicle Specification.pdf

I wouldn't joke anymore if you really want the remote start. I'd pursue the swap with a reduced payment for the mileage difference between the two cars for your inconvenience. If the normal mileage depreciation charge is $0.20 per mile (check what Ford leasing charges for excessive mileage), I'd start out around $0.05 per mile.

IMO, "operator error" should not be included in the poll as a failure. :) homestead, you might want to add this caveat to the definition.

Zero for me at 20k miles in my SEL.

I have added and enabled Ghostery on my browsers which blocks these nuisance ads (hence I don't see the side creeping ads nor the ad at the top). But sometimes one might want to pause blocking on a site or whitelist a site to see certain info.

Since the C-Max is about 1 1/2 years old, it's premature to assess long term reliability other than Ford has apparently not yet found the "fix" to the "dead battery" issue as owners are still having "no starts" after the latest software update. However, many owners like myself at 20k+ miles have had no reliability issues. You can purchase Mechanical Breakdown Insurance (if your auto insurer offers it) or Ford's best extended warranty at prices around $1000+ depending on coverages but you have to negotiate or buy on-line from a Ford dealer. The C-Max will likely never beat the Prius in cost of ownership as the Prius line will deliver better FE on average all else being the same (which may not be as it seems the first year depreciation of the C-Max might be higher than the Prius). It depends on the deal you can get on the Prius vs the C-Max and how long one owns the vehicle. After 10 years and 150k miles, depreciation is virtually a non-factor. I cannot see that their would be much difference in routine maintenance expenses. If you like the C-Max (I would never buy a current vintage Prius after driving the C-Max - the Prius is not in the same ballpark IMO), find a lease deal so you can walk away from the C-Max if you eventually are unhappy with the C-Max.

Here's a graph I found that might help in explaining why one wants an oil with a high Viscosity Index other things be the same. The Green line could represent Motorcraft 5W20 Blend. The Red line could represent Mobil 1 0W20. Both have the same viscosity at 100*C but Mobil 1 has a higher VI. Thus, there is the potential for fuel economy savings at temps below 100*C and better durability above 100*C using Mobil 1 vs Motorcraft 5W20 blend. The olive colored dashed line might represent Motorcraft 5W20 full synthetic as its 100*C viscosity is lower than the Red and Green curves at 100*C but the slope would be slight better than what's depicted. It's slope would be tilted more towards the Red line.

I would argue that Mobil 1 0W20 AFE encompases the grade range of the Motorcraft oil (exceeds may be confusing implying something is wrong). Mobil 1 is better on the low end (cold start viscosity or winter "W" viscosity) and the same grade on the high end (100*C viscosity). But the more relevant numbers with respect to viscosity are the actual viscosity index and Cst numbers for the oils. As long as Mobil 1 meets or exceeds the Motorcraft spec WSS-M2C945-A , there is no warranty issue. The grades of oil have little meaning (except to the consumer as a relative measure), the grades encompass a range of kinematic viscosities. Also, it doesn't appear that Motorcraft has a full 0W20 oil. I would be more worried as to the TBN of the Motorcraft oil (fbov did a UOA at about 10k which showed a very low TBN of 0.5). I haven't been able to find the virgin TBN of the Motorcraft oils but Mobil 1 has an initial TBN of 8.8. Here's a comparison of Mobil 1 with the Motorcraft oil with respect to viscosity. --------------------cSt@40C -cSt@100c -- Viscosity Index 0W20 Mobil 1 -- 44.8 ----------- 8.7 ------------- 173 5W20 Full ------- 45.9------------ 8.3 ------------- 159 5W20 Blend----- 50 -------------- 8.7 ------------- 164 0W20 Blend --- 44.69 --------- 8.52 ------------- 169 With respect to viscosity, I want a lower cSt@40*C for winter performance, a higher cSt@100*C for hot weather, and a higher viscosity index as that is a calculated value from Cst numbers to indicate viscosity change to temperature (higher means less change in viscosity for temperature difference). But, I believe the bottom line is that by following the oil life monitor, checking oil level regularly, using spec oil (likely even with non-spec quality oil) one will not have an engine issue related to the lubricating oil. I also seriously doubt one will see a measurable FE improvement among the oils above. For comparison, one might see a FE difference is one used Motorcraft 5W30 oils with these viscosities: 5W30 Blend --- 65 ------------ 10.8 -------------163 5W30 Full ------ 60 ------------ 10.5 ------------ 166

IMO, those temperatures are simply way too low for good FE. Did you have the heat on? My guess is that ICE was also cycling on/off once coolant temp reached a certain level / HVB near full. I doubt the catalytic converter is up to OT yet and whether the engine is ever running in closed loop operation on your commute. I don't know whether at 0F ambient you will get to 180F+ even with grille covers at 0F. You might want to seal around your hood / lower your hood / draw intake air from the engine bay too.

Yes, the liftgate needs 12V to operate. With a dead 12V battery, you need to apply 12 V at the +/- posts under the hood to get the liftgate open. This has been brought up before and it seems that it would be appropriate for Ford to design a method to open the liftgate with the key. An example where this would be beneficial is that you know the 12V battery is dead and you don't have a set of jumper cables. With a way to open the liftgate, you could remove the battery, drive to the Ford dealer (or a Walmart assuming eventually replacement batteries are readily available) for exchange and purchase of new battery, return with a new battery and install the new battery. All is now good. I've done this many times on other vehicles rather than jump starting a car with a dead battery and driving the car to a battery shop.

Good point. From the owner's manual below if you can't trickle charge it in place. Also, removing the 12V battery in the C-Max is not as easy as it is on a battery under the hood of a car. Also, I couldn't find any reference to the HVB when storing the C-Max. I would think a Li-Ion battery would be fine for 4 months. . wamba2000, is it worth the hassle storing your C-Max? Putting an additional 4k miles or so on the C-Max won't affect value at 100k miles and likely very little at 25k.

The only thing I would add is you might want to put the car on jack stands / blocks to remove the weight on the tires. You don't want permanent flat spots to develop in the tires . I would personally not remove the 12V battery (all learned / user programmed settings will likely be lost). I'd leave it in place on a smart charger.

I wouldn't characterize that 1/2 quart low every 10k miles is "using" oil. Engine oil contains volatiles which will evaporate / burn off - some oil more than others and engine operating temperatures can affect this. Most vehicle manufacturers don't consider ones engine to be "using" oil until about one quart per thousand miles for warranty claims. IIRC, Honda recently settled a class action lawsuit on excessive oil consumption where people were using about a quart or more per thousand miles. Yes, check your oil level frequently. Most manufacturers recommend checking ones oil level every fillup.

Not the spec. That doesn't link to the 2013 C-Max anymore. If you let Mobil decide what oil is best for your car by entering the 2013 C-Max you get the quote below. Months ago (don't recall how long ago), the site came back with the 0W20 AFE. Now it's as if Mobil doesn't have the spec for the MY2013 C-Max.