cr08

The miles of range mean nothing as that can vary wildly depending on various conditions and colder weather will definitely effect it. You need to do a proper capacity test: 1) Fully charge the vehicle 2) Drive in EV mode ONLY until the battery is depleted (no highway driving, avoid cabin heat as much as possible to keep the ICE from starting. If it does, it invalidates the test) 3) Once depleted and it reverts to hybrid operation, safely stop the car and shut it off. The trip summary will list the kwh used for the trip. This is the number we need. 5.5kwh is the brand new plug-in capacity from the factory. Anything above 4.0kwh should still be 'good'.

This is correct. If the battery or hybrid system completely fails, the vehicle will no longer drive. At bare minimum the starter/generator motor in the transmission is necessary for starting the engine as well as facilitating the operation of the 'continuously variable' aspect of the eCVT and allowing the engine to properly transmit power to the wheels. This starter/generator motor is powered by the high voltage battery. That all said, there are plenty of failure modes up to the point of complete failure where the vehicle will see the battery is worn/degraded and may not be reliable to use for EV operation or higher loads but will gracefully fall back to hybrid operation or full time ICE operation and still be drivable but with reduced functionality. With how most dealers are clueless on these cars, I'd always go for a second opinion when they call for costly repairs like this. At the very least, getting any codes read and posting to a forum like this with more experienced owners who can hopefully narrow things down or confirm/deny the dealer's findings.

Modern cars command modules on/off digitally over the CAN bus instead of the old 'accessory power' wire or switching the main power feed. The radio is one of many examples of this. That said, there are still fuses that will shut off with the ignition. The power feed for the 12v ports in the front feeds off the lighting relays which means they will stay on for up to an hour or so after the car is off but then shut down. There are a number of fuses that are like this as well even for stuff not lighting related. Here's a thread that has some useful info:

I'm assuming the 'little window' you see looks almost like a Windows dialog box that pops up briefly and then the system shuts down or goes blank after? I've attached a picture from another forum that shows this. If so, that definitely sounds like the APIM. This is something I ran into on my own vehicle and have seen others report as well and usually comes down to the APIM starting to fail and needing replaced.

Then this sounds like the traction control issue I mentioned. When in neutral, regen is disabled and you're relying completely on the friction brakes which won't 'cut out' when traction control triggers like regen will. It's not really an issue that can be fixed, just how this car behaves. But if you can confirm if the location this occurs happens to have some form of pothole, bump, or other irregularity, that would certainly confirm it I'd think.

There is no HVB jump starting button in these vehicles. That only existed in the much older first gen Escape hybrids with the NIMH packs. This is dated info.

Do you happen to hit a small bump or pothole in the road when this happens? Or happen to hit a spot it could lose traction? The traction control can be a bit finicky in these vehicles due to how it interacts with the regen and causes regen to very briefly stop completely when it kicks in. It's a bit unnerving for sure and unfortunately not much you can do about it other than being cognizant that it can happen and prepare for it if you know such a spot is coming up. With the age of the vehicle it also may be worth getting the suspension checked. If it's worn and can't keep the wheels planted on uneven surfaces/bumps/potholes/etc., it can exacerbate this as well. Source: I own a 2013 as well and know this issue quite well. I also know my suspension probably needs work at 90k miles.

The fuse pull 'fix' is simply a workaround and not a proper fix. The ACM needs to be updated by a dealer technician. There are TSBs floating around for this and Ford's recommendation is to update this module.

I just wanted to post a small thing here: I had recently discovered that the FordPass integration for Home Assistant had some VERY useful tools for digging deep into what data Ford has on our vehicles, even stuff that is not surfaced in the app. Doing some messing around with it, there's a TON of useful stuff there. One of which is basically all the trip data we used to have including total trip distance, EV miles, brake score, MPG/MPGe, fuel used, etc.. There's also some other real odd info such as coolant and ambient temp, vehicle and engine speed, transmission torque info, etc.. Some of this is surfaced in HA currently but most of it is not. I've been successfully testing some of this on my 2013 and have gotten some fun data out of it. Issue I posted in the fordpass-ha Github repo starting the discussion on this stuff including some sample data pulled from my own C-Max: https://github.com/itchannel/fordpass-ha/issues/452 For those technically inclined, I have forked the integration and did some work to make it standalone and thus not requiring HA to operate. There's also some docs I added detailing some of the different data points produced from Ford's API. Use it at your own risk of course. The main branch is basically my WIP dev branch and could break at any time. Also Ford is generally not happy with frequent polling of their API and will lock your account if you abuse it or any time they deem fit. Currently across the community using this stuff the recommended minimum polling interval is 15 minutes. A good recommendation is to set up a separate FordPass account for this from your primary and set it up as an authorized user for your VIN. https://github.com/cr08/fordpass-ha One thing I'd definitely like to do is build a web dashboard with all the trip data. No ETA but I'm working on this as I go. I need to experiment more and get more data after various trips to get a good idea what's reported and when.

Another thing worth mentioning as well now that I think about it: Is the audio issue consistent across sources? ie: Does it happen on AM, FM, Bluetooth, USB? Bluetooth and USB are handled by the APIM while AM and FM (and Sirius/HD Radio for equipped vehicles) are handled by the ACM. The Sync APIM on the 4" equipped models have also been a bit of a mess for some owners so if the issues just occur for Bluetooth and USB, that could narrow down the cause there.

Not sure what spreadsheets you have looked at, but this should be the applicable database for our vehicles. ACM models differ over the vehicle years and AsBuilt data can change. https://cyanlabs.net/asbuilt-db/acm-2013-2014/ Here's the ACM AsBuilt I pulled from a random 2013 C-Max with the 4" screen I found a VIN for which should closely match. The only things that may differ are the Sirius and HD Radio options. This one wasn't equipped with either. By comparison, here's mine which is an SEL model with the 8" touch screen, Sirius, and HD Radio: Two options worth making sure that are set properly are the EFP type and the Steering Wheel Controls. EFP should be LIN for the 4" systems while they are CAN for those with the 8" touch screens. This affects the front panel controls. SWC should always be set to Not Available. The vehicle handles this elsewhere. Not sure if they will matter as far as the audio issues you're having, but worth being aware of. Here's the DACMC AsBuilt database. There's really not much here. The main thing should be ensuring it is set to 0=Front: Int Amp, Rear: Int Amp for the Front/Rear Satellite Speakers config. In comparison, the ACM should be set to 5=Front: External Variable, Rear: External Variable since it's handing off those duties to the DACMC. https://cyanlabs.net/asbuilt-db/dacmc-2013-2018-asbuilt-database/ Here's a copy of the AsBuilt for mine. Given the info that's here, I don't think there's any difference between model years/trims:

Just to confirm, what exact module are you referring to when you talk about the 'radio' attempting to be replaced? There's a few audio related modules in this vehicle: ACM - The radio tuner/CD unit that sits behind the dash and CD slot APIM - The Sync module. On 4" equipped vehicles I believe this is inside the passenger side of the center console roughly under the cup holder area. DACM - This is the amplifier/Active Noise Cancellation module. This sits under the glove compartment. All C-Max vehicles should be equipped with it as it is necessary for the ANC function which I believe they all had standard regardless of trim. If you want to try to disable the ANC, you can follow the easy instructions at the thread below. However this does not usually cause complete audio failures, just the addition of some droning noise to the cabin while the ICE is running under certain conditions. More than likely the ACM (the actual tuner/CD unit behind the dash) is the culprit. It's a common issue on these vehicles for various reasons. As far as replacements go, I'd stick with something out of another C-Max, a Focus, or Escape to play it safe since they share the same electrical architecture. You will need to reprogram it to your vehicle though. Most likely this is why the noted attempt with the low volume happened because it wasn't configured correctly to your vehicle. If you are technically savvy enough, Forscan will do this for you easily. I'd recommend putting the old ACM back in and see if it is 'alive' enough for Forscan to pull the old AsBuilt from and then you can put the replacement in and write that to it. If the old ACM won't read properly in Forscan, there's a second option pulling directly from Ford as they keep a copy of the AsBuilt for most modules. You can do so at the link below. You're looking for the 727-XX-XX blocks of data. https://www.motorcraftservice.com/AsBuilt If you are not comfortable doing this, any dealer or mechanic with access to Ford's IDS tools should be able to do this for you. In their own tools it is usually referred to as a 'Programmable Module Installation' procedure.

That is the TCU and is the old 3G model. If that ends up solving the issue long term, then kudos. Hope it works out. As noted earlier, the only things you'll really lose are the ability to set the Value Charge and Go Times features. If you don't use those, then nothing lost. All the rest of the car including phone functionality will remain unaffected.

Pull codes and see what the vehicle is reporting. It could be the 12v battery but there could be some harness wires on/around the transmission that may not have been reconnected during the transmission work. Having specific codes will help narrow down the cause.

Given the (inaccurate) info provided so far and the lack of any work order to confirm what they did, I am highly skeptical that they fixed anything but just band-aided it at best. But I will be honestly surprised if they did. Keep in mind this issue also has the habit of not reoccurring for many months up to a year or so at a time for many owners. Now the rest of this post is fully assuming the same audio-related symptoms are occurring (i.e., won't turn off, can't change volume, can't change sources, etc.) when all this takes place. I'm also assuming that once this is temporarily fixed, everything will function normally for a while? If so, it's 100% the ACM and needs the calibration updated if not done already ('Calibration' is Ford's terminology for firmware updates and can only be applied via their own IDS systems or a beta build of Forscan, as noted in my previous post). You say that 'calibration was done' but who knows what that means in this scenario or if it was even done to the correct module. I'm only wary because of the wildly incorrect info given about the TCU module. If you have any further info, like actual work orders/receipts detailing what they did, that will be helpful. To clear the air on a few things and what modules we're talking about in this thread: TCU - The Telematics module or 3G/4G modem. This covers the FordPass/remote access functions like remote start/lock/unlock via your phone ONLY. It also controls the Value Charge and Go Times functions. Disabling/unplugging this module will not affect any normal operation of the vehicle outside of these specific functions. APIM - The Sync module itself. On 8" touch screen equipped vehicles, this sits directly behind and is attached to the screen. This obviously operates the touch screen but also Bluetooth, Nav (if equipped) and USB audio. Think of it as a fancy smartphone. ACM - The AM/FM/CD/Sirius tuner and audio 'router'. This is the big silver box behind the touch screen/APIM where the CD slot sits. This will take commands and audio from the APIM for Bluetooth/Nav/voice prompts and routes everything out to the speakers and and is responsible for source changes/volume control. This is the module that actually acts up in these scenarios/with these symptoms. I don't know what happened for you to lose Bluetooth audio other than possibly your dealer/mechanic pulled Fuse 67 for the TCU which is shared with the APIM (Fuse 79 is for the ACM only). But this would also lose the entire touch screen and possibly all audio in the process. Bare minimum AM/FM/Sirius audio may still work but that's all. To properly get rid of the TCU from the equation without losing other functions, they'd need to disconnect the module itself which is behind the driver side trim panel in the cargo area. Or they could have went AWOL and physically disconnected the APIM or ACM for whatever reason. More detailed info on how the system is functioning currently will help here. IF you have access to a Bluetooth or USB OBD adapter (specifically one with MS-CAN capability) and Forscan either on your phone or on a Windows PC, you can pull the ACM info and what calibration level it is running currently so we can confirm if they actually did the job or not and at least establish a rough timestamp of the firmware in place. No actual updates or complex tasks needed here, we need the basic info that is read when Forscan connects to the vehicle. I've attached a screenshot of the mobile app below and what should be seen under the 'Vehicle' tab. On Windows PC's will be in a similar location but under the Modules tab (screenshot attached as well). This issue certainly isn't cause to look for a new vehicle. It's not a complicated fix. Just your dealer/mechanic need to tackle the right thing instead of chasing red herrings here.

Forscan beta builds with the firmware update function have the option to download available updates right in the app. However due to reasons, the one I used is not available that way but is available directly from Ford at the link below. The link is a bit finicky. First time it may ask for your region/language and drop you back at the portal. Access the link again and it should go to the calibration download page. I'm sure there's better ways to get here. https://www.motorcraftservice.com/diagnostic/Support?channelId=50&categoryId=288 My current calibration and strategy levels per Forscan. This is for a full featured AM/FM/HD/Sirius ACM. If yours is different or has a different base part # (ie: The CM5T-19C107 part. The suffix in this case changed with the new calibration), I wouldn't try to force this one unless you're willing to risk a brick of the unit. I'd start with whatever newer calibration levels Forscan offers and go from there. You'll need both the strategy and calibration files. It should be noted that originally this particular combination was not listed as an available/compatible combination for my ACM. This came about from another owner here with a 16/17 MY C-Max that had the same ACM part # listed but these newer calibration levels. I originally tried updating to the latest available that Forscan had listed but they introduced a new bug where the HD FM stations were WAY louder than the analog counterparts. This newer level sorted that and fixed the original freezing issue. That all said, I'll leave the disclaimer here: I am not responsible for any bricks if you decide to DIY this. You should also have a 12v battery charger hooked up (You can't rely on the EVSE for Energi models for this) with at least 9A/10A capacity if there's any remote chance you're 12v battery is degraded. Forscan basically shuts down the entire car during the process, relying fully on the 12v battery for the duration. The process is not that long or difficult. The flashing process is done under 10 minutes. If you're not comfortable with doing this yourself, go to your dealer. It should just be the cost of labor and if you're lucky they may cut you a deal on it. I've been wanting to put together a tutorial for this particular issue but haven't had the time/energy to get around to it. And with Forscan recently restricting access to the beta builds necessary for firmware updates, most may not be able to or are willing to go that far. But for anyone who is already familiar with it/has access, this should get you going easily enough.

I don't think anything has been fully confirmed as a cause, but one coincidence that has come up numerous times and lines up with your timing there is Sirius updates. They just started a free preview last week which would have sent an activation signal and certainly could have triggered the issue. Ultimately, the actual fix is known and the ACM calibration needs to be updated. TSBs are out for this not only for the C-Max but other Ford models as well. I have updated the factory module in my 2013 to a ~20162020 level calibration and it has been rock solid ever since.

If this continues to be a problem, this is the same old ACM issue that many other owners have run into. Temporary fix is pulling fuse 79 for a minute or so to force it to power cycle. The proper, permanent fix is to get your dealer to get the calibration updated on it. Beyond this, if the car dies pretty quickly or the 12v battery doesn't seem to hold a charge, it will need to be replaced one way or the other. Continuing to let this issue occur without fixing it will continue to drain and wear out the battery prematurely.

Find a new dealer because this is all a bunch of BS putting it frankly. The TCU is just for the FordPass app/remote access stuff and has nothing to do with phone/nav/etc usage. That is all handled solely by the APIM. The old 3G TCU's can no longer be replaced but Ford has 4G replacements available to be installed. That said, the 3G TCU's will still function and should not be causing undue battery drain even though the 3G networks have been shut down. Yours could be failing, but it's not a terribly common occurence. I'd get a second opinion given all of the inaccurate info you were given. The TCU is also not tied to the VIN. A bunch of us have DIY upgraded ours with units pulled working from other vehicles. Zero issues with any VIN/vehicle attachment. Same with the APIM as well. The TCU can be left unplugged without any issue other than you'll lose the Value Charge/Go Times features if you use those. Those are another set of features that are operated by the TCU.

Just adding some data points to this: I follow the main C-Max FB groups and a few 2017/18 owners have chimed in recently having this same transmission issue and getting them replaced under warranty. So we have some confirmed incidents.

Good video. Another recommendation, and this may sound like a broken record here but is always a good, easy, and quick check for these vehicles: Scan for any codes. Get a cheap OBD dongle (one that can read MS-CAN! This is relevant for HVAC stuff) and use Forscan to get all Ford specific codes. These vehicles track and document a ton of stuff even if it doesn't trigger a warning light. This can include any HVAC malfunctions like the blend doors. There's also a number of sanity checks it does for coolant flow/temp stuff that will store trouble codes. Very easy and quick check and can potentially help narrow down the issue before getting into manual diagnostics. Anecdotally a relative of mine recently purchased a 2015 Explorer with vent selection issues being stuck on face vents only. While an obvious cause there, the HVAC module has clearly reported a malfunction with that actuator. And because it is not emissions related, it doesn't produce a CEL or any other warning lights.

No. The hybrid models don't have the same degradation issues as the Energi. Ford unfortunately had poor programming on the Energi models in regards to the thermal protection and when EV use is allowed, allowing owners who just drive it like any other ICE vehicle to add extra wear to the battery. By the nature of how the hybrid models operate, they don't ever get stressed to the same level and can be driven normally without any extra precautions. The batteries should last the life of the vehicle. As for transmission issues, that's a whole confusing mess. Some owners who have been around the C-Max community for a while have recently started considering that the whole transmission failure concern is a bit overblown. That's not to say it can't happen, but it's been so heavily pushed as a major detractor for the early model years even from those who have not experienced it themselves and just parroting the same line (of which I have been one but I've dialed that back a bit). Also there have been some owners of newer model years including 2017 models that have had their transmissions start to exhibit the same failure symptoms so I wouldn't even count those out of the woods yet. On top of that, no one has really been able to narrow down what the true failure causes are. We all know it comes down to an incorrectly installed bearing installed from the factory that holds the transfer gear and can cause it to slip and eat into the transmission case but its unsure what triggers that to happen in the first place. I've made this recommendation elsewhere and gotten heavily criticized for it, but this is a hill I'll die on: I'd honestly recommend to shorten the transmission fluid change intervals on any C-Max vehicles regardless of if it is a hybrid or Energi or whatever model year it is. Ford's recommendation is 150k miles. I'd probably consider 50-75k but that's just pulling numbers out of my ass if I'm being honest. But the premise being to watch what the fluid comes out like and if there's any sign of wear particles that could indicate the start of a failure. eCVTs by their nature don't have any wear components to them so on a healthy unit there shouldn't ever be any metal particles in the fluid. Changing early can give you a bit of a heads up before a more catastrophic failure. Fluid changes on these aren't difficult or expensive so IMHO it's worth doing so more often for peace of mind. If a potential failure can be caught early, the transmission can be pulled and opened up and get the transfer gear/bearing replaced at a fraction of the cost of replacing the entire transmission.

The ICE running or not makes no difference to voltage. As long as the car is on/in 'Ready to Drive' mode, the DC-DC converter is fully active. Full running should be 14+V. There's also a secondary mode not many are aware of (I only found out after digging deep into the workshop manuals) that when the car is 'awake' by opening the door, unlocking, etc. without actually starting, the DC-DC converter does come online in a kind of baseline/failsafe mode (essentially no input from the vehicle what the desired charging voltage is) that puts out around 13v or so.

That will depend on numerous factors like the current battery health/wear, ambient temp, HVAC use, driving style, etc.. Hence the aforementioned battery health test. A lot of people try to use their miles of range as an indicator of battery health which can wildly vary. Getting the actual kwh is the only true way to gauge battery health. But to at least give some answer to your question: The vehicle was originally rated for up to 20 miles of range. Some people have gotten more with weird trickery with constantly changing the drive modes, confusing the range estimator. My 2013 with ~3.5kwh of capacity currently gets about 12-15 miles on a good day.

Yes. All have Lithium batteries even hybrid models. The only Ford vehicles that ever had the older NiMH batteries were the 2005-2012 Escape Hybrid and the first gen 2010-2012 Fusion Hybrids. Everything 2013+ in Ford's lineup are exclusively lithium-ion based. No transmission issues so far knock on wood. Majority of my driving has been city driving.