plus 3 golfer

There may be other shops that will put a used transmission in for less than $4800. The decision to cut losses most times is a financial one (cash flow) not necessarily an economic one in that one does not have the cash on hand to pay for a big expense. One "cuts losses" and buy a replacement car that can be financed / paid for over time. So, 176k miles / 7 years = 29+k miles per year X 3 years = 90 k miles. $7.1 k / 90k miles = $0.08 / mile. Where can you find a used car like the C-Max that depreciates less than 8 cents a mile? Any new car will be well above 8 cents a mile for the next 3 years. Your "real" trade in value with the car fixed, broken or after another 90 k miles will likely be between $1-2k which is virtually immaterial in the analysis. How many people will buy a car with 176k miles on it even if it has a brand new transmission. We know the big expense risk for a C-Max is the transmission. If your plans are to put a lot of miles on a car in the next three years, paying $7100 might make sense (or $4800 or less if you are a gambling man). Of course the risk of fixing / keeping vs buying new / used is the potential for having other major expenses with the C-Max in the next 3 years like the need for a HVB replacement and a series of smaller expenditures over the the next 90 k miles that might be covered under a new or used car warranty.

Most generic car Apps do not have service procedures like battery age reset in them. Even ForScan light for smartphones does not. You need the Windows version of ForScan for service procedures. There’s a trial version and extended paid licenses now available for the Windows version.

Many have / have had similar issues especially with early MYs. Did the dealer make sure all TSBs and CSPs have been done on your car especially those relating to the "no start" issue? I don't have the info at hand but will look it up or others may chime in. TSB 150089. CSP 15B04 https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/SB-10058325-1132.pdf https://ford.oemdtc.com/1696/15b04-12-volt-battery-test-and-module-software-update-2013-2014-ford-c-max 1) When the radio stops working try pulling fuse 79 under the glove box and reinsert. You may need needle nose pliers or fuse puller. This should reset several control modules. I assume radio doesn't work on restart. So, it's likely the radio / associated modules are draining the 12 V battery in the next two days so then the car won't start. 2) Next time you drive. Leave radio on. Stay in car and turn car off via pushbutton / key. Time how long the radio stays on before the message comes up on the display saying something like "Shutting down to conserve power." Depending on when you had the battery replaced, the time could be as long as 10 minutes. 3) Get yourself a portable jump start battery so you can jump the car from under the hood and carry in car in case issue crops up away from home. The control modules need to have a good 12 V battery to operate. The cars engine does not have a typical starting system. It uses the High Voltage Battery to run the generator motor in the transmission to start the engine. The control modules must close the contactors to the HVB. Once closed, the DC-DC converter supplies power to the 12 V system. There is no alternator as in a conventional vehicle.

Keep the pedal to the floor. RPM will not go to high.

Agree Google Maps better than Waze, IMO. I run ForScan and Maps on Smartphone. I have Ram window suction mount on side window which is easier to see than looking down in center of dash. Power always connected. Never had a “heat” issue. Backup is Garmin 3490LMT ($100 from Pawn shop in 2012) for places with no cell service as one would have to save a map section and use saved map when no data service available - PITA when traveling long distances. So, I saved the initial cost of in car Nav system plus map update cost. Another $70 saved!!!

Are the “shops” you mentioned Ford dealerships? If the lights come on when jumped, the CAN and BodyCM should be OK. Did the shops scan all modules for diagnostic trouble codes especially the BECM and DC/DC converter? If there are issues with connecting to the HVB or DC//DC converter has issues, the car won’t start. Have you measured the 12 V battery voltage under hood? Before trying to jump and when jump starting. If DC/DC converter is operating, the voltage should be higher when trying to start (key on). Do the lights stay on if you remove the jump start battery?

That likely explains it. The AC compressor is powered by the HVB and ICE will shut down for HVB issues. I doubt the HVB will be covered if the washer line hose caused the issue as you are well past the 3/36 B2B although maybe CA is different. If it is water intrusion but not the washer line, perhaps your comprehensive insurance will cover it.

I can't find anything specific in the manual about fail safe operations other than there are Limited Operating Strategies to allow the driver to safely operate the car for many potential conditions that could arise. With ForScan and this OBDLink module (the cheap modules will likely lose connection frequently) one can record PID data for hours at a time without interuption to capture data when the AC shuts down and yellow wrench appears. Before shutting down the car, one stops the scanning, saves the data. One can then upload to excel and analyze what happened around the time the issue occured. Other than the dealer doing the same troubleshooting by monitoring realtime data, the issue may not be resolved until there is a "hard" failure. Did the dealer tech call Ford as the fact that the A/C shuts down seems to be significant, IMO to when the car goes into a LOS. I assume you haven't seen this LOS with A/C off.

I don't believe the ML529 will scan all of the Ford modules on the HighSpeed-Can and likely none on the MediumSpeed-Can. If there was a DTC deemed to be "emissions related", the code must be stored (EPA regs). But many codes, like for a stability control issue message I got one time, was not stored. So, you may need to scan the car when the message is being displayed to see the code (if any). I don't recall anywhere in the service manual when a code is NOT thrown for a yellow wrench. One other place to look is here although I have yet to see anywhere what codes the ETM stores.

It's amazing that there are no stored codes for the Yellow wrench. The issue must not be deemed to be "affecting" emissions because the engine shuts off. Upon restart, the monitors are not detecting any issue. I assume once you turn the car off and back on, everything is OK? You never got a "stop safely now" message? A couple of thoughts: You could get the ForScan App for a smartphone and an ODBII ELM327 module so that when you pull off the road with car still on you can check for DTCs. It almost sounds like the modules believe that the car should be / has been has been turned off. There are many fail safe checks which allow the car to be driven on EV so you can get off road. Once stopped, you can't drive any further until you turn car off than back on assuming issue is still present? How long is the AC turned off before the Internal Combustion Engine won't run? How do you know when ICE is off? Does other equipment still work before turning car off? wipers, radio, turn signals and so forth. I will look at the ICE fail safe stuff in Service Manual. For example, if car overheats, there are several things that happen to prevent damage to ICE like shutting down the AC to allow cooler air to the radiator and ultimately not allowing ICE to run. Perhaps, it's as simple as a few bad sensors causing issue. Next time it happens put HVAC into full heating mode as soon as you notice warm air instead of cool air.

Try this as a possibility. Could the wiring to the mirror be faulty? or was it checked to be OK? My guess is that around 32 F the BCM broadcasts the message to heat the mirrors. So, voltage would be applied to the mirror heaters by the door modules. The messages to the door modules are sent over the CAN. So, it likely that the heater messages broadcast over the CAN are causing the light to come on at freezing temps somehow. I have no idea whether the algorithms might do the following but somehow the light is coming on. Perhaps the heater control algorithm adjusts the voltage to the heaters based on other data and reduces voltage once the mirrors reach the defrosted state, as it would take less power to keep mirrors warm. The BCM might broadcast messages to reduce the power to heating elements based on other data. Perhaps blower speed might be used as a proxy for level of frost on mirrors (one usually cuts blower speed when windshield begins to defrost). Maybe the wiring / connectors to the heater from the door module has a path to the light wiring such that the light comes on when full voltage is applied but when voltage drops the light goes out.

You will likely need to edit the BCM configuration with ForScan to get LEDs to work. See this thread: http://fordcmaxenergiforum.com/topic/7764-any-good-options-for-headlights/?p=50791 Search the C-Max Energi forum.

Since you get nothing from double click the lock button (horn should blow once) and tech sent commands to doors and nothing happened, IMO door modules are not the problem. Try this: open the hood with doors closed and double click the lock button and see if horn blows twice. Since windows work when holding button, problem likely not MS-Can. Problem might be a faulty hood switch. BCM may believe the hood is always open. There is no way for BCM to tell when hood opens or closes but only its apparent status. Open hood and look to the left of the locking mechanism and you will see the wiring to the switch. When the hood latches, the latching mechanism rotates up and pushes the switch to a closed position. If there are no DTCs (can you verify whether the tech scanned all modules for DTCs), perhaps BCM might need reprogrammed (perhaps lost some configuration settings). Where was the clicking sound comming from: under the glove box or from the doors? If BCM sent command to doors and doors didn't unlock / lock there should be DTCs.

It should be as dealer should have followed procedures which would remove all "stored" key fob data. What I don't know is if dealer can bypass this reset procedure if a key FOB is being added. But if you told him one FOB is missing, dealer should have reset data.

Hill Start uses the brakes as described in the Service Manual. Every car I've owned for quite some time has had this feature. The ABS uses the stability sensor messages from the Restraints Contol Module. When the ABS determines the vehicle is on about a 3% grade or more, it enables the Hill Start function. If the ABS determines there is insufficient torque once the brake is released and the accelerator pedal is pressed to move the vehicle, it will continue to hold the vehicle in place beyond the normal hold time. The Hill Start function works in both forward (D) or reverse ® if backing up a hill. From the Owner's Manual: The system makes it easier to pull awaywhen your vehicle is on a slope without theneed to use the parking brake.When the system is active, your vehicle willremain stationary on the slope for two tothree seconds after you release the brakepedal. This allows you time to move yourfoot from the brake to the acceleratorpedal. The brakes are releasedautomatically once the engine hasdeveloped sufficient drive to prevent yourvehicle from rolling down the slope. Thisis an advantage when pulling away on aslope, (for example from a car park ramp,traffic lights or when reversing uphill intoa parking space).The system will activate automatically onany slope that will cause significant vehiclerollback.Using Hill Start Assist1. Press the brake pedal to bring yourvehicle to a complete standstill. Keepthe brake pedal pressed.2. If the sensors detect that your vehicleis on a slope, the system will activateautomatically.3. When you remove your foot from thebrake pedal, your vehicle will remainon the slope without rolling away forabout two or three seconds. This holdtime will automatically be extended ifyou are in the process of driving off.4. Drive off in the normal manner. Thebrakes will release automatically.

If tech has proper tool, tech can read the status of the door latches (door ajar DTC) and all DTCs associated with the MS-Can modules. Did he do that? The ForScan App for Smartphones with proper OBDII plug in adapter (eg, OBDLink MX Elm327) can read all HS and MS Can Modules. If doors aren't closed you should also see it on the intrument panel. The Door Modules and the Liftgate Trunk Module have their own Fuses which are hot all the time. So, I doubt all Modules have blown fuses. If the command is not going through to the door but did to the Trunk, then perhaps there is a problem with the MS Can at one of the connection / splice points. The Body Control Module would send the commands over the MS Can to the Modules. Lastly, as homestead mentions, perhaps something is amiss with an input to the BCM preventing operation of the door locks. Does car finder work: from the manual, Car FinderPress the lock button on the key twicewithin three seconds. The horn sounds andthe turn signals flash. We recommend youuse this method to locate your vehicle,rather than using the panic alarm.Note: If locking was not successful or if anydoor or the liftgate is open, or if the hood isopen on vehicles with a perimeter alarm orremote start, the horn will sound twice andthe lamps will not flash.Sounding a Panic Alarm (If Equipped)Note: The panic alarm will only operatewhen the ignition is off.

It’s fuse 79, 15 A that should be pulled. Fuse 69 is the instrument panel. You will need to remove the glove box. 1) remove panel under glove box - 2 pull off / push on fasteners 2) pop off right side panel from dash and open glove box 3) I believe there are 4 screws - 2 underneath and two upper to remove box 4) the Body Control Module and fuses should be exposed. 5) disconnect the many connectors from BCM 6) don't know how BCM comes out - maybe push tabs or screws 7) hopefully you can then see what happened.

Ford has the MOTORCRAFT® TESTED TOUGH® MAX BATTERIES on sale until the end of January for $129.95 + installation. I believe the Tested Tough is the only one for the C-Max (cheaper one not available). It has a 3 year full replacement warranty and a 100 month prorated warranty. When I had mine replaced in summer 2015, it was on sale for $119.95 + $16 labor + $2 disposal + tax = $148.87 out the door but the :censored: clueless dealer did not reset battery age. It wouldn't suprise me if the dealer charges 1/2 hour labor to reset age which is easily done with ForScan in the time it takes to start car, plug in ELM327 into OBCII port, open ForScan, navigate to the control functions, initiate the age reset function, scan to check PID to make sure it was reset to zero - 5 minutes tops.

Is the car "on" when the liftgate acts erratic? It would seem that if yes, then your 12V battery may not be the problem as the DC/DC converter would be supplying 14.7 V to the 12 V system. If "no" then, 12V battery may be the issue (see below). There is a rear gate trunk module (opens and closes lift gate) that communicates with the BCM and the BCM / trunk module likely do store the lift position (not the aux. battery). But, most modules will retain data even if low voltage or no voltage. But, operating a motor on low voltage can be problematic. There is a "latch secure" contact closure signal to the trunk module which likely would stop the closing of the lift gate and signal to the latch motor to secure the lift gate. This BCM also uses this contact for monitoring lift gate ajar. My guess is the switch / latch might need adjustment if you continue to get the liftgate ajar. There are several DTCs related to the power lift gate but this note from the Service Manual supports the techs diagnosis: NOTE: The power liftgate may not operate correctly under the following conditions: A low voltage or drained battery.A disconnected battery.`Repairs/adjustments have been made to the power liftgate rod, power liftgate motor, liftgate hinges or liftgate striker. Since your battery is 5 years old, I'd replace it. If you do get an Odyessey, get one that is the same (close to) Ah rating as the Motorcraft AND reset the battery age PID (ForScan Windows App will do it). Otherwise, the Battery Management System including the charging algorithm will make incorrect assumptions as the battery ages. As the new 12 V battery ages, absent the reset, it will likely not be charged to the State Of Charge it should be charged to. The message - Turning off to save battery - is an indication of low 12 V battery SOC primarily due to battery loss of capacity as the battery ages with use. If a new battery is put in and the battery age is reset, one can run the radio for 10 minutes after key off before the message appears. The battery age reset will zero out the coulumb counting algorithm (integration of current into and out of the 12 V battery) used in determining SOC of the 12 V battery.

A couple of points. Do you know whether the dealer reset the 12 V battery age (resets the columb counting algorithm to zero) when batteries were replaced? 12.4 V is generally all one will see with key off. This assumes about an 80% state of charge (see below) of a new battery. The battery at 11.77 V volts likely still has several hundred mA of load on it especially since most modules aren't asleep in 3-4 minutes. If one looks at Voltage vs SOC curves for a C/100 rate of discharge, 11.77 V is virtually no different than 6 volts - both are virtually zero SOC. In the first 3 or 4 minutes you will like see charging in the 10+ A range. So, a few Ah of capacity should have been added which brings the charge up from virtually 0 Ah to a few Ah (11.8V). IIRC, the C-Max battery is around 30 Ah which at C/100 would be a discharge current of 300 mA. If your 12 V battery is 6 months old and your key on voltage isn't at least 14.7 V, the charging algorithm likely believes that your battery is a lot older than 6 months and will use the old data when determing the bulk charge state. So, if the algorithm computes the battery capacity as say 25% of a new battery, the bulk charge state will only charge upto about a 20% or less state of charge (voltage somwhere between 12 V and 12.1 V). The algorithm will then reduces charging voltage over time for the remaining charge. It might take several hours of key on, ready to drive state to reach the 25% full charge. If you continue with key on, the algorithm will simply be in a battery float charging mode 13+ V and battery will charge very slowly. I have experienced the above prior to knowing about battery age and that I could reset it with the Windows version of ForScan App. My first battery lasted 30 months. It was replaced by dealer in June 2015, About 1 years later, I realized dealer did not reset battery age. I didn't think it was an issue. But as I monitored battery data with ForScan Lite for smartphones, by mid 2017 with normal daily driving, my 12 V battery SOC would be in the single digits (sometimes zero). If I drove for around one hour that day, SOC might reach 20%. The algorithm was assuming my battery was approaching 5 years of age. In Sept 2017, I drove 1900+ miles and after 29 hours of driving time in 2 days, the SOC reached around 90%. In early 2018, I realized that I could reset battery age, and loaded ForScan Windows on my laptop and reset battery age to zero even though my battery was over 2 years old. After resetting battery age, my SOC now ranges between about 50% and 70% depending on daily driving times. My point is that you may have an issue with battery drain but if battery age was not reset, your battery will likely never charge to a higher state of charge unless you put it on a charger overnight. So, absent battery reset, you will likely see the "no start" issue more frequently.

The issue with Apps other than ForScan is that they will have a limited set of the Ford PIDs and nothing on the MS CAN and very little on the hybrid operational PIDs. I’ve tried Torque Pro, Dash Command, and another one several years ago and unless you know the PID codes to enter, they are virtually worthless for hybrid data. Also, go to the ForScan.org forum and read about adapters as IIRC, they don’t recommend the OBDIink MX WiFi adapter for IOS or Android.

Welcome to the forum. What you are describing on the highway is negative split mode operation which works great on "flat" highways as one can run long periods of time with ICE rpm reduced by the generator (MG1) but with ICE virtually at the same torque demand to operate at a more efficient point on the brake specific fuel consumption curve. FE thus increases but generally the penalty is increasing time. Run too fast (requiring more torque) and it's harder to keep ICE in negative split mode. So, one has to generally slow down: save fuel $ or time but not both. The novelty wore off me fairly quickly and I generally just "drive" the car to save time. Gas is currently $2.389 at Costco. :) If you haven't seen the video in this link, it demonstrates how the C-Max transmission operates in negative split mode. Second, if you are "into" the operational aspects of your C-Max, I'd recommend getting the ForScan App for your smartphone. You will need an ELM327 adapter to plug into your OBDII port to communicate with your smartphone. I've found the cheaper adapters slower and drop out frequently. I currently use the OBDlink MX BT adapter.

Thanks, didn't think of looking in the Service Manual. So, there is likley a 4:1 ratio of max. number of PIDs that can be scanned in one second on the HS CAN compared to the MS CAN.

Whoa, looks like the Obdlink MX is no longer on sale at $59.95 as price now shows $79.95. Might have been a Black Friday or Cyber Monday week sale.

I note that the "PID rate" max spec. for the OBDlink MX is: MAXIMUM PARAMETER ID (PID) RATE ~100 PIDs/second for PC & Android I was scanning 14 PIDs from four modules: BECM, BdyCM, SOBDCM (TCM) and PCM all on the HighSpeed CAN. I just spot checked and the worst rate that I found was 14 PIDs at 18 times per second. The best rate I found was 14 PIDs at 27 times per second. The average scan rate for the 14 PIDs was 42.1 msec based on 6,347,605 msec / 150,674 scans which would be 14 PIDs at 23.75 times per second. I wondered why it would take about 3X longer to scan 100 PIDs per second than the same 14 PIDs about seven+ times per second? The MX module should simply be a passthrough interface of the PID to the modules on the CAN as it clearly passed about 330 PIDs per second on average. But the MS CAN is slower than the HS CAN. My guess is that the MX Max rating of 100 PIDs / sec is based on the MS CAN baud rate. A quick search indicates that HS CAN can have a baud rate of up to 1 Mbits/sec depending on cable length and MS CAN has a max baud rate of 125 kbits/sec. Now when comparing the MX module scan rate with my older ELM327 modules, I looked at some older data and could only get about 120 PIDs per second on the old ELM327 compared to 330 on the MX module which is over 2.5 times faster. In addition, the MX module specs show a curent draw of <2 mA when in battery saver mode. I'm fairly sure that one of my other ELM327s had a "sleep mode" that was more like 10 mA. So, leaving the MX plugged in all the time is no issue. For $70 one can get the OBDLink MX and the ForScan APP. and then one can have fun "playing" with the data Also, this is probably $30 less than a trip to a dealer for a "diagnostic scan" only to be told there's nothing wrong with your car. :)