plus 3 golfer

stratosurfer, are you familar with FORScan? With the appropriate ELM327 device, about $10 (HS CAN data) upto about $80 (if one wants to monitor data on the HS and MS CAN automatically) and the appropriate ForScan APP for a smartphone, you can monitor virtually all the PIDs in the C-Max. Then, you can monitor temperatures while towing for anything unusual. Below are two DTC for temperature conditions of the transmission. I have not seen any temperatures remotely close to triggering the DTCs or Over-temperature Warning. Typically at high speed interstate driving (75+) in summer in Phoenix area, TFT runs less than 165F and traction motor coil temps are no more than 30F above TFT and generally only when doing maximum regeneration down long hills when filling the HVB. Also attached are typical temp values from the Service Manual. TOT (Transimission Oil Temp) = TFT. ECT (engine coolant temp = about 195F). ECT (Cylinder Head Temperature proxy for ECT) is further down the list of typical values and not shown in the attachment. Motor Coil Temp (P0A2B) | Transmission Fluid Temperature - Generator Coil Temp | < 10 deg C AND | Transmission Fluid Temperature - Motor Coil Temp | > 30 deg C AND | Motor Coil Temp - Generator Coil Temp | > 30 deg C Generator Coil Temp (P0A37) | Transmission Fluid Temperature - Generator Coil Temp | > 30 deg C AND | Transmission Fluid Temperature - Motor Coil Temp | < 10 deg C AND | Motor Coil Temp - Generator Coil Temp | > 30 deg C Motor/Generator Coil Temp Over Temp check malfunction thresholds: Motor/Generator Coil Temp over Temp Motor/Generator Coil Temp > 140 deg C OR Transmission Oil Temp > 115 deg C

The AC-DC inverter (not DC-DC) is liquid cooled. The HV DC - 12V DC converter is under the rear hatch floor and is air cooled. I've monitored ECT, TFT, and MG1 and MG2 coil temperatures under high load conditions (80+ mph, up and down steep grades) at 100F+ ambient with AC on and around 500 pounds of cabin load. I never came close to any temperatures that would trigger an alarm, DTC, or emergency operating conditions to protect engine / transmission from damage. I've also run with grille covers on the middle and lower grilles at similar conditions except at max. ambient of about 40F with no issues. Adding 1000 pound tow would certainly increase load and temps absent the tow. But, if one drives "conservatively", I doubt overtemperature will be an issue.

There is no water cooling of MG1 and MG2 in the HF35.

Look at the list of marketers that are Top Tier certified. It's quite extensive and all grades of gas of the marketer have to meet the Top Tier requirements. Since I started using Top Tier in the early 2000s (in my 2000 Passat), no issues with misfires, CELs, rough running, hesitation and so forth in any of my vehicles. Also, there's virtually always a Top Tier marketer whose price matches or is the lowest price in the area.

Changing brake fluid is not a scheduled maintenance item for Ford. But it should done periodically (frequency is very subjective). Since brakes are "needed", it makes sense to chang fluid. Are you using Top Tier gas? I virtually always use Top Tier but still put a double dose of Techron Concentrate cleaner in the tank about once a year.

Did the mechanic clear the code and run the PCM test to see if the code returned. I assume the coolant level is OK. It looks like 2 hose clamps, electrical connector, and 3 bolts to remove pump after belly pan removed and coolant drained. Add $45? for coolant. Two hours labor? = $200? $800 seems excessive. The service manual doesn't show anything that would indicate difficulty in removal.

Get an ELM327 adapter (as low as $8 to $80 for one that can scan HS and MS modules automatically) and download the free Windows Forscan App to a windows tablet / laptop / PC and reset the 12V battery data. I believe you have to request the extended license and Forscan will send a code to unlock the App. It doesn't matter how much you pay for a car as to whether to reset the battery or not. The charging and load shed algorithms need correct data to keep track of the State of Charge of the battery to hopefully maximize life of the battery. If you feel paying 1/2 hour labor is too much, don't do it.

Ethanol in gas does not cause injector failure. It's the water in gas that is the issue. Gas additives include demulsifiers which cause the water to separate out of the pure gas. Water will settle to the bottom of the storage tanks at the distribution facilities. Ethanol and pure gas is then blended into the tanker trucks for delivery. Thus, there should be virtually no water in the E10 delivered to the retail stations. However, ethanol is hygroscopic and will absorb water and perhaps too much if left in tanks too long. The effect of too much water is that the gas, ethanol, and water will separate into layers in ones tank which is not good. IMO, to minimize the possibility of potential separation of gas, ethanol, and water in your gas tank, 1) always buy gas at high volume stations and 2) keep your tank as full as practicable. Problem is you could still get "bad gas" and not know it until a problem arises (injector failure). Having said the above, I don't know anyone that has had an injector failure since the introduction of ethanol. Also, there is nothing wrong with ethanol absorbing small amounts of water. The water molecules simply pass through the fuel system. Although pure gas can absorb very small amounts of water, it's not significant compared to ethanol. But, a tank of bad pure gas is likely to be detrimental to the fuel system also.

Location: BCM Under Passenger Dash - F79 - Audio Control Module (ACM), Front Controls Interface Module (FCIM) Location: Rear Junction Box - F22 - Digital audio control module Pulling fuse F79 will reset the ACM and FCIM if those modules are hung up and the cause of the no audio. If still no audio, then try F22. I believe that, if F22 is blown, there will be no audio.

I just looked up mine again and 12M02 does show up. I'm sure it was not there 6 months ago.

Sorry, it's the Forscan.org forum. I believe you'll need the Windows Extended Vetsion that allows making changes to the Ford software coding / data. https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=6205&p=21505&hilit=disable+motion&sid=fcad83cea3e540c9f85beefbbb6aad4c#p21505

The CSP extended wartanty is only good for 5 years from purchase date. Mine expired in 12/2017 and it no longer shows up on the Ford owners sight. Pull fuses and check continuity with meter before putting back in. When I have time, I'll look at wiring diagrams as to which fuses to check.

Yes using ForScan, IIRC a poster with Sync 3 navigation was able to disable motion lock to allow full use of nav while in motion. Search Forscan forum.

Well, I was skeptical about TireRack's 3 very good reviews of the Altimax RT43 tires and especially the consumer reviews as how could a tire that cost so little be rated so high. But I pulled the trigger almost a year ago and couldn't be more pleased. I also got the heavier load version. I'm running 50 psi and don't get the hard jolts when hitting uneven pavement that I would get in the Energy Saver at 50psi. I'd thus run around 46 in the Michelins. I just came back from a 390 mile round trip to Flagstaff - 382 miles on I10 and I17. I have good historical FE data for that trip. The RT43s FE were 4% worse than the Michelin Energy Savers.

OP, take a look at the ratings for the General Altimax RT43. Use the second link in fbov's post above and select Grand Touring all season. These are the tires I have on now. IMO, best performance for the $. In Aug. 2017, I paid $488 out the door excluding state sales tax (no rebate at the time but I have seen $60 rebate since) at local Goodyear tire shop. My Altimax tires get 5-6% worse FE than the original Energy Savers. TireRack Tests: July 14, 2017 https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/testDisplay.jsp?ttid=227 Tires Tested General AltiMAX RT43 (H- or V-Speed Rated) (Grand Touring All-Season 215/60R16 95H)What We Liked: A standout performer in the wet and on the road.What We'd Improve: Creates some tread growl and has the firmest ride of this group.Conclusion: More than just a good value, a good tire.

Awful in what respect? IMO, Michelin Energy Savers are "awful" in the rain, far from the best in overall handling, and overpriced (they win this category). :) They do get the best FE based on tirerack's comparisons and on my experience though. But FE isn't everything (to me). ;) OP, even though the P4s would generally be used locally at lower speeds, I'd still compare their performance ratings with other potential substitutes for the Michelins. $430 Is a significant savings but stopping 20 feet shorter or better emergency handling could be worth a lot more than $430.

Use Mobil 1 instead of Motorcraft. At least once a year, Mobil 1 has been offering significant rebates on a 5 quart jug. Watch for posts as to when. IIRC, the last rebate ended in May. Walmart generally has the best price on Mobil 1. Dealer is probably the best bet for Motorcraft 0W20.

The 1500 W inverter is likely around 90% efficient. So, the input current to the inverter would be 1500W/12V/0.9 = 139A which is less than the 175A charging circuit fuse. I would add a 140 A fuse in the input line to the 1500 W inverter to not blow the 175A fuse of the DC/DC converter charging circuit when the car is running and the HVB is supplying the 1500 W inverter. See the attached. I would connect the new 140A fuse to the 1500 W inverter to one of the studs (added in black on the attachment) of the red cables on the fuse link assembly attached to the 12 V + battery terminal. Hopefully, the140 A added fuse would blow before the 12 V 150 A battery fuse link when the 12 V battery is supplying load (car off) as my guess is it is expensive since it can't be replaced separately from the fuse link assembly. Obviously, proceed with caution as "blowing fuses" can be expensive. The 1500 W inverter can probably handle large inrush current of loads attached to it. But the C-Max fuses may not be able to handle it and blow. Resistive loads should be fine but any motor loads for example may have too large of an inrush current for the C-Max fuses.

You will not see 3 miles at 45 mph under "normal" condtions and flat road (not slightly downhill). You will be lucky to get 2 miles because there will be slight upgrades and the power requirements will likely be more than the EV algorithm allows as the HVB is being depleted and ICE will come on. Watch the EMPOWER display and you will see the EV blue bar threshold decline as the HVB SOC declines to the EV level being used (solid blue when using EV and white when using ICE). You would need to lower your speed so that the EV power stays below the blue bar. Eventually, ICE will start up as the blue bar continues to drop. Again, your battery symbol climbs very slowly once SOC reaches low 50s% unless there is significant regeneratative braking to simulate engine braking or physical braking with brake pedal. Watching EMPOWER, you will see the blue bar rise as SOC increases.

This is the relevant TSB. Should be covered under warranty except if dealer says loss of tranny fluid caused failure and owner was negligent. Your post and findings of shop doesn't help. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=2319

I suggest you try it. I was skeptical also as my hearing isn't what is used to be. My mics will stay disconnected. No aftermarket stuff.

"Ever wondered why the 0-60 mph time from publication A is lower than the one from publication B? It's generally not because one has better drivers than the other, especially in today's world of launch control and automatic transmissions. Nor is it due to equipment accuracy, as everyone uses Racelogic VBOX data loggers. The time difference is usually due to the liberal use of a correction factor and the needless application of rollout. Rollout comes from the drag strip. When you start a quarter-mile run, the timing lights don't start until the front wheel is all the way over the starting line. That number used to be approximated by subtracting the first foot of an acceleration run. Now a common substitute is to cut the first 3 mph from a run, cutting as much as 0.3 seconds off the time. Some publications post a 0-60 mph with rollout and others do not. Once again, there is no standard. In either case, it means the number in print isn't the number you feel. Weather corrections need to be applied because engines make different power in different weather conditions. Temperature, altitude, and humidity all make a difference. While most publications claim to use an SAE standard to correct for weather variations during testing, the application of the correction changes from publication to publication. In order for a number to be comparable, it needs to be corrected. But weather corrections normalize for perfect testing conditions where an engine will be at an optimal operating condition. In the real world, a vehicle will almost never be driven in perfect weather, meaning it will never actually make the power the tests correct for." ... "Aside from weather correction and rollout, there are plenty of other factors that can change a 0-60 time. Non-standard tires, fuel, and weight can all affect performance testing. Some vehicles with sophisticated launch control systems that are set up for a perfect 0-60 run are actually slower in a rolling 5-60 mph test. Often times, test drivers will use and abuse a vehicle in a way no real owner ever would."

Close.

Measure the battery voltage. Try disconnecting the negative black ground wire from the stud located near the battery for 5 minutes or so then reconnect and try to start. I doubt it's the 12 V battery as your charger indicates it's fully charged.

Passed 100k last week in 5 1/2 years. Used other car more extensively the last 12 months to extend time to reach 100k. So, my hybrid warranty and GEICO MBI have finally expired.