plus 3 golfer

Are you aware of EPAS? It may be what you are sensing / experiencing. There is an adaptive / learning process. https://owner.ford.com/how-tos/vehicle-features/convenience-and-comfort/electric-power-assisted-steering-epas.html

I believe the $200 includes the fuel induction system that injects the concentrated cleaner in the fuel rail. IMO, this is a "quick" fix but not lasting where using Top Tier gas that has higher detergent levels than required by regulation is the long term "cure" for carbon fouling and misfires. ;) :)

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On parts.ford.com look up part 14290 for your 2013 and you will see the wire assemblies. You can look to see if you have the connectors I mentioned above to see which wire assembly you have. Also, see these links below. https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/sensor-parking-aid-system-6382913-1 https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/wire-parking-distance-aid-sensor-6472713-1

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When I look at Ford parts there appears to be a different wiring harness for vehicles with and without the automated parking system. It looks like you would need a harness for the front sensors that plugs into each sensors and into connector C144 ( 6 wires) that looks to be part of the factory wiring harness on the lower left front end. .These 6 wires then run to a connector C238 near the BCM under the right dash which then run to the Parking Aid Module connector C1014B in the rear of the car. It also appears that 4 wires from PAM run in a factory wiring harness to the IPC switch assembly. So, unless you happen to have the correct factory wiring harness for automated parking, I wouldn't want to tackle this. :)

Not quite that simple. You have to change as-built data in several modules like the IPC module, PAM module and the BCM (assume this module does auto parking), add the sensors and a front sensor wiring harness. One can change as built data with ForScan. Of course you need to know what data to change in appropriate modules. A quick search shows these videos as examples. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WyvhVURZ5lQ

ICE will not turn when in N (way too much torque required to spin engine relative to torque required to spin generator when in N). When in N and vehicle in motion, the traction motor spins, the ring gear spins, the planet gears spin but the planet carry does not spin (ICE does not turn), the planet gears thus spins the sun gear and the generator spins in the opposite direction of the traction motor. With respect to the transmission gearing, N is no different than being in EV mode.

Well if Terraclean doesn't work, try BG.

That's an interesting question given that ICE would likely come on above about 15-20 mph (EV only at low speeds) and then at higher speeds, higher ICE rpm to supply torque to generator and wheels. My experience with "carbon build up" in a 2000 Passat is engine "stumbling and hesitation" and CEL flickering on / off (misfires) upon initial acceleration especially on cold engine. At cruise speed and hot engine the hesitation (misfires) stops and CEL is generally off. VW recommended using Top Tier gas and Dealer did a free BG system cleaning. Given the way ICE operates in a hybrid and that ICE could take 5-10 minutes to reach higher operating temperature, perhaps the vibration is misfires just under the CEL threshold. Why not just DIY with double dose of Techron. Do you use "TopTier" gas?

I wonder if some of the many splices / wire connector terminations in the harnesses are failing (wearing away over time) and developing high resistance causing excessive heating. Several tenths of an ohm increase at a pinpoint location with several Amps flowing can generate heat and increased temperature at that point causing ever increasing resistance and heat in the splices / terminations.

Not a Ford tech, just a retired electrical engineer who has been reading auto service manuals since the 1980's for the VWs, MBs and now the C-Max vehicles I've owned and participating in car forums. The BCM is where the fuse panel is under the glove box and is likely not the issue. My guess: it's the FDIM (8" display touchscreen) or the APIM (SYNC module). Both are rather expensive new. Problem is I don't know how to tell which might be the issue. You can get the system into diagnostic mode by holding the CD Eject and right Seek button down at the same time. But I don't recall anything in the mode relating to dimming / flickering test. I've seen videos on replacing Sync 2 with Sync 3 and it looks easy to pop off bezels / covers and remove the display and Sync modules.

Yes, the sensor is the one near the bottom, center of the windshield on the dash. You would need to remove the A pillar - trim pieces, the defroster vent cover, and the center cover to get to the sensor. Looks easy but where I always run into issues is reassembly when clips are used - pieces never seem to slide back together and align (maybe 15+ slides/clips to get aligned and in place). The Body Control Module processes the sensor input and sends day / night info to the Instrument Panel Cluster which is used for day/night illumination status for the display. There are 3 BCM DTC's for the sensor; signal too high, signal too low, and signal erratic. Before I'd tear into the dash, I'd want to make sure the sensor is the issue. :) Have you tried your auto headlights? If they work OK, then the sensor is likely good.

BXT-67R specs are 390 CCA and 65 minutes reserve capacity. Find a battery that is close to the 65 minutes reserve capacity as that is an indication of storage capacity. The Battery Monitoring System uses storage capacity of a new 67R and computes losses in capacity as it ages in its algorithms including state of charge calculation. As stated in previous post, you should reset the BMS when a new battery is installed. You can reset it with the free Windows version of ForScan.

A couple of thoughts, the old battery may be original and thus 5-6 years old, the charging algorithm wasn't fully charging the new battery, there wasn't sufficient SOC to complete the scheduled maintenance, and you disconnected the battery for 15 minutes. I recall reading that Ford vehicles will default back to transport mode upon attempted powerup after a certain period of time with low / no battery voltage. You can try this procedure to see if transport mode is the issue. to manually disable transport mode: Deactivation Place the ignition in the OFF position.Verify the battery is fully charged. NOTE:On vehicles with Push-Button Start, place a programmed passive key in the PATSbackup starting location. Place the ignition in the ON position. NOTE:Steps 4 and 5 must be carried out within 10 seconds. Press and release the brake pedal 5 times.Press and release the hazard switch 2 times (on, off).NOTE:When exiting Factory mode, the IPCmessage center indicates NORMAL MODE when the procedure has been successfully completed. Place the ignition in the OFF position. A low system voltage or bad battery can put the vehicle back into transport mode as for why the vehicle went in this mode, your local dealer will need to test the battery and charging system and possible to a computer reflash

Was the battery you replaced the original that came with the car? The C-Max has a 12 V Battery Management System algorithm. You are to reset the data in the BMS when you change the battery. In addition, the replacement battery (if not the MotorCraft battery) should be the same capacity (Ah) as the original. The algorithm computes degradation of the battery by integrating the current in / out of the battery over time. With this data the algorithm can better estimate losses and the State of Charge of the battery. Without a reset, the new battery "inherits" these losses in SOC from new. This likely means the new battery never gets fully charged. The above is likely why Ford requires the Odyssey battery to be replaced.

No, your addition to my post (shown in red) is incorrect. The generator rotation physically changes direction in negative split mode from positive split mode. So, by changing electronically the phase relationship of the 3 phases of the generator, the generator can be made to spin in the opposite direction thereby allowing the rpm of ICE to drop while still applying the same torque demand. The generator rpm is added to the reduced ICE rpm to keep rpm to the wheels virtually the same. See attached chart showing ICE, Generator, and Traction Motor RPM that I posted several years ago. Clearly, the generator physically changed direction of rotation (blue dotted line). Also note how the Generator controls the overall "gear ratio" (green dotted line vs blue dotted line). Also, the torque requirements must remain in balance to the wheels to maintain the same speed. So, the traction motor can act as a generator producing electric energy that will be used by the generator (acting as a motor). The control algorithms will adjust the torque requirements of the generator and traction motor to keep ICE operating as efficiently as possible. But, the transmission operating efficiency suffers because of the losses in the generator and motor converting mechanical energy to electrical and back to mechanical in negative spit mode.

The cigar lighter Power Points (center console and center storage compartment) are controlled by the interior light relay on the BCM. The 12V power outlet in the rear luggage area is hot all the time. I've never tried this but supposedly the BCM has a timer (battery saver feature) for the demand lamps that is set for 30 minutes. So, the cigar lighters should go off after 30 minutes. See Service Manual excerpts below. "The demand lamps subsystem consists of: Interior lamps (map lamps)Vanity mirror lampsLuggage compartment lampBCM The demand lamps provide illumination to specific areas within the vehicle when needed. The BCM energizes the interior light relay to supply voltage to the demand lamps when the battery saver feature is not active. ... When 10 minutes (30 minutes for demand lamps) have elapsed, the BCM automatically shuts off voltage to the lamps. The timer restarts (voltage is restored if the BCM is in battery saver mode) if: the ignition transitions out of OFF.any door or liftgate/luggage compartment lid becomes ajar.the UNLOCK button of the RKE transmitter is pressed.a door is unlocked using a key.the door lock switch is pressed." - Service Manual

Attached are screenshots from Forscan of my module information. The Strategy should be the version of firmware currently installed on my C-Max. I believe the Calibration is as-built data that is specific to VINs. For example, DRLs implemented / not implemented. My guess is that Dealers / independent shops simply follow the VCM II tool / IDS protocol, TSBs, and Manuals when performing module updates and know little of what is different from previous versions. One can DIY with the tool and a Ford IDS subscription. About the only thing an owner can do is compare their module data with others and pay for updates out of warranty. Some updates are CSPs (not Recalls) and have expiration dates.

See if your dongle is compatible with ForScan. If so, you can buy the appropriate APP for a smartphone or download the free Windows APP. There is info on the modules but I don't know whether we can decifer it with respect to software version / revision level. I'll check on my car. My service records indicate three PCM updates to the latest calibration level for my car. The last one is dated June 10, 2015 and was done with CSP 15B04.

The "lean burn" mode is likely negative split mode operation where the SOC of the HVB is high (around 2/3 - 3/4 full when looking at the battery symbol), cruising on relatively flat ground at moderate speeds (50 - 70 mph). By backing off the throttle ever so slightly (or going down a very slight downgrade), torque demand drops slightly. The power control algorithms can then reduce ICE rpm by spinning the generator in the opposite direction thereby maintaining rpm to the final drive and thus mph. The traction motor will be used to make up slight differences in torque requirements (either + or -). The effect on ICE is that it is now operating on a more efficient point on the Brake Specific Fuel Consumption map. Operating in negative split mode was easier to do prior to the Ford changing the maximum EV speed from 62? mph to 85 mph. Now, backing off the throttle slightly generally kicks in EV mode. In addition, Ford may have tweaked the algorithms in later revisions. Negative split is not the preferred mode and is used when ICE must be on. The preferred modes are EV and positive split mode (ICE on, generator charging, traction motor assisting ICE propel car).

"Other" power flow is 12V power for seat heaters, radio, lights, control modules, wipers, and the like that flows from the High Voltage Battery through the DC/DC converter to the 12 V system. There is no alternator like in a non-hybrid. The DC/DC converter replaces the alternator. So, there will always be "Other" power flow. Give us more info on your mpg and why you think it is low.

I believe a quick jab of the brake pedal quickly opens the valve to the atmosphere in the brake booster and we hear a large, quick volume of air being drawn into the brake booster due to the vacuum on the other side of the diaphram. This in rush of air is what gives the "boost" to the push rod and makes pushing the brake pedal in easier. Under normal braking (slower push of the brake pedal), the push rod take a longer time to reach the same positon and one does not hear the slower inrush of air. As far back as I can recall, my car always did this since new.

On run flats, I look at the likelihood of ever needing them (having a blowout) vs the benefits (likely just less inconvenience). I'm assuming no differences in tire performance. I've had one blowout (1979 Accord) in about 1.5 million miles on all cars owned. I had a spare and simply changed it. Now with no spare, I'd simply call Insurance to dispatch tow. It would be less inconvenient if I had run flats. But, the likelihood of having a blowout is very low. With respect to screws / nails causing slow leaks, there's no difference in inconvenience for me. I monitor tire pressure while driving and carry a quality tire plug kit. I've had 2 screws in 102k miles. After finding the screws, I drove one to a tire shop (5 miles) and the other home (11miles) and plugged it. Bottom line for me: run flats would have to have same performance or better and similar costs before I would buy them.

As far as the transmission failures, you can glean from this TB that the issue is with the transfer shaft bearings. What causes the failure is not clear (only Ford can answer this). The TB covers 2013-2016 MYs which might indicate a design issue since one would think that issues with the "bad" parts would have been resolved by the date of the TB. So, additional load on the transfer shaft might exacerbate failures.