plus 3 golfer

There are two members (SnowStorm and Stratosurfer) that recently sourced a used transmission. Look at the threads below. I believe they may have used ebay to locate but not sure. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/5257-transmission-leak/page-4?do=findComment&comment=72721 http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/7689-replaced-ecvt-with-salvage-unit/?do=findComment&comment=72884

Well, assuming that the BCM relay is still clicking, there is 12 volts at the latch connector, and the fact that you've had the issue several times in the past and then it starts working, might be a faulty connection as SS indicates. Disconnect the cable to the latch assembly and jumper positive 12 V to terminal 1 and ground to terminal 2 of the latch assembly and see it the latch works. The attachments show the connector wiring and the latch assembly where you can see the 4 connection points that match the connector diagram. If the latch doesn't open, then the latch assembly is likely bad. If it opens but doesn't open with the lift gate handle, then the problem might be in the cable, the connector ground, ground splice in the cable, or the physical connection to chassis ground. See attachments for splice and its location.

There is a large bracket type box with cover that houses the PCM "box" on the left lower side in front of the left fender liner just above frame. It's hard to see looking inside the engine bay but you can see the cables that go into it. It's accessed by removing the fender liner. It's hard to visualize how moisture / water could enter the boxes unless something is / was amiss. I believe you bought the car used. Was there ever work done on the left front? Maybe the car was run without a belly pan for awhile. I don't know whether the PCM "box" can be opened to get at the electronics. But, I solved an issue many years ago by cleaning "corrosion" from the board. Get the PCM back and take a look at it.

Notice on the parts diagram, many parts are grouped together. You might be able to buy these groupings. For example, this listing https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts-list/2013-ford-c-max/planetary-gear-sets.html?PartNumbers=DG9Z-7F342-B might be for part #s 38-42 which are a gear and 4 bearings as the description says Gear Assy Input. Why do you need all the bearings? So, first locate the bearings you really need and then email a supplier like fordpartsgiant.

Here's is link to parts diagram and parts list / numbers. I do not believe Ford sells many internal parts as Ford does not rebuild these transmissions nor have I ever seen anyone offering to rebuild on or a rebuilt one for sale. Call / email a supplier and see what they say about ordering specific bearings.

Here’s pics of the 6 sides of a random lug nut I pulled off to snap some pics. The center of all sides are shiny and not touched by the socket. One can see ha the socket contacts the sides of the nut about 1/16” from the edges of a side. The right edge is the tightening side and the left the loosening side. One can see the edges have been raised apparently from the strike of the socket 2-3/32” from the edge. Shops (Ford, Costco, and tire shop) did about 5-6 tire rotations and two installs of new tires and I did about 5-6 tire rotations. 112k total miles. I hand tighten the last 1/4 turn or so with torque wrench. So, I would not buy any replacement lugs that are capped as the caps are thin and will likely deform like my pics over enough use.

Note what DP says about their product. “This DP-Accessories lug nut is not a one-piece design and does have a cap. However, the two components will not have separation issues like factory parts tend to do. These are one of our best selling products because of the great quality and affordable price. By DP-accessories SELLER on December 29, 2017” When I examined my OEM lug nuts, what I saw was that the normal hex socket design for impact wrenches has a convex surface between the 6 points so that the socket makes contact with the nut before the corner of the nut to prevent rounding of the 6 corners of the nut. However, because the cap on the OEM nut seems to be of a softer material, the socket “pushes” the softer metal towards the 6 points on the nut such that the nut surface becomes concave. Thus, it can become more difficult to put the socket over the nut. On a few of nuts I would have to force the socket on the nut. I believe this to be the “swelling” that many are experiencing.

Prior you could enter vin under vehicle tab and get data. No need to register. Apparently changed now. Owner.ford you can register and get open recalls and FSAs.

Check the voltage of your 12 V battery especially when this happens. How long have you owned the car? Do you know if the battery was ever replaced? There is an algorithm that monitors battery age and state of charge of the battery and if certain condition are met will shut down stuff. The best example is the radio. Try this: leave radio on, shut down car, do not open door, and time how long radio will stay on before it shuts down to save power. With a new charged battery and the battery age reset, it will take 10 minutes exactly. As the battery ages, the algorithm computes the losses in the 12 V battery for use in the charging and calculating the SOC. There is a battery age reset that should be done each time the battery is replaced that zeroes out the battery losses. Don’t know what might happen if never reset from new as the losses might be more than the capacity of the battery. So, first make sure your 12V battery is good and battery age was reset.

112k miles. There are several things you can do to increase FE like adding grille covers for colder weather operation and running higher pressure in your tires. If you are into hypermiling, the C-Max is an ideal car because one can “control” to an extent the use of the gas engine and electric only operation to improve overall efficiency. If I were buying a used C-Max, I’d get a lower mileage 2016 or late build 2015. Some 2013 and 2014 have had bearing issues in the transmission as indicated in the link below. Ford has not indicated when the issue might have been resolved. Ford has covered this under warranty for the early failures. Two members with over 100k miles recently replaced their bad transmission with used ones for $3-4K. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/7599-hybrid-vs-hybrid-energi/?do=findComment&comment=72865

LOL, the transmission is not a conventional CVT. It's a planetary gear set with 2 electric motors but it does need a fluid change every 150 k miles. Watch this video. The hybrid transmission is covered by the unique hybrid components warranty for 8 years and 100 k miles. The C-Max Hybrid is one of the best cars I've owned especially on the highway. How far is your commute? At 60 mph cruising you should get in the mid 40s mpg minimum. If you follow ptjones videos, you can likely get upper 40s. Cold will kill your mpg especially until engine is warmed up - likely lower 40s. Of course AC is summer is also a hit to mpg.

Mobil 1 rebates are usually 2x a year. Current one expires 9/30. $12 on 5 quarts. Walmart has always had the cheapest price on Mobil 1 that I could find and Mobil honors Walmart as a participating retailer. See the Mobil 1 rebate site. Mobil AFE 0W-20, 5 quarts $21.38 at Walmart less the $12 rebate which you can submit online is $9.38 for 5 quarts.

First, go to owner.ford.com where you can check for recalls. Also, on etis.ford.com you can enter your VIN and see all Outstanding Field Service Actions. A whooshing sound is likely air rushing into the brake booster which is normal when pushing the pedal in as a valve opens to allow outside air to enter one side of the brake booster. The other side is under vacuum which assists in the movement of the push rod to make pushing the brake pedal easier. Although most will never hear the sound under normal operation. The sound could also indicate a large vacuum leak. The next thing to do is likely scan the control modules for Diagnostic Trouble Codes, especially immediately after the event. Problem is dealer will likely charge $100+ just to do it. So, you want to make sure you can duplicate the event for the SA and maybe even tech. Since it appears to be ABS related, the dealer may also want to run the brake calibration procedures especially if no DTCs to ensure the ABS knows the "zero" position of the roll, yaw, and pitch sensors. If you are into "trouble shooting", you can get the ForScan App for a smartphone and a $20 or less OBDII ELM327 adapter to plug into the OBDII port and scan / troubleshoot yourself.

Yes, a faulty RCM could be providing bad pitch data to the ABS. 14S04 was to reprogram the RCM supposedly so that side airbags would not delay in deployment. Recall 14S21 RCM replacement, issued several months after 14S04, if not done, may be the issue. “ The coating on portions of the Restraint Control Module (RCM) may crack, and when exposed to humidity, circuits on the printed circuit board may short. Consequence The short circuits could cause the frontal air bags, side curtain air bags and the seat belt pretensioners to not function as intended when needed, increasing the risk of occupant injury in the event of a crash.”

Perhaps ABS is acting up / being triggered by a faulty device. Has there been any work done on car just prior to this issue? Describe the sound after the jerking. Is it a whooshing sound, metallic sound. Can you record it? When using grade assist, do you have the issue every time? or does the HVB have to be virtually full? as using brakes with full HVB requires the mechanical brakes as there is no room in the HVB for regeneration braking. There is an electric vacuum pump that will likely start up when vacuum is low (that might be the sound). Perhaps there's a vacuum leak as in the hill hold uses the mechanical brakes (brake pedal pushed in) and when disengaging grade assist and having to pump brake pedal indicates that mechanical brake booster system may not be working correctly. ABS should sense this and perhaps operates the brakes electrically hence the jerking until vacuum is built back up.

NO, the flip of the coin is a 50-50 chance. It probably more like hitting 00 on a roulette table if that. I never had an expenditure with a car I've owned in the last say 20 years where I ever could have used an extended warranty. I don't buy extended warranties. I did buy Geico mechanical breakdown insurance (which is an insurance product regulated by states) and paid less than $27 a year ($200 deductible) for 5 1/2 years (hit 100 k miles). So, that gives one an idea of how much that $1500 extended warranty really costs the seller. IMO, the best advice is to self-insure. Take the money one would spend on all types of extended warranties (vehicles, home, appliances, electronics and the like) and invest it. For many, a big repair presents a cash flow problem - where do I get the cash for a $3 k, $4 k, $5 k expense. So, the out is to pay smaller amounts for service contracts and extended warranties Had one simply banked this money, they would have quite a nest egg after 20 years.

Exactly, sounds fishy to me. Have your daughter look at the service orders as to what was done. There are DTCs for low and high pressure. Also, with a scan tool to read pressure PID and pressure manifold gauge, tech can compare actual pressures with sensor pressure. They can also compare suction pressure with the normal range for a given set of temperature and humidity conditions as long as ambient is above 70 F. Too much refrigerant does not cause the evaporator core to ICE up blocking air flow. The compressor will cycle off when pressure gets too high and blow warm air. So, as ambient temp rises, pressure will rise also to the cut off pressure - hence the around 80F. Did she take it in for the blocked air flow? Someone had to add refrigerant. They should have evacuated the system and added refrigerant by weight. And, they should have still checked operations and saw pressure was too high. The spec calls for 26 ounces (1.625 pounds). How does someone add 42 ounces of refrigerant and not know it. Since you will likely never find out exactly what happened, I'd certainly replace the temp sensor as that was the likely the cause of the blocked airflow. When the extra refrigerant was added, the evaporator would not ICE up since the compressor would shut down at around 80F well before icing would happen.

I'll bet it's the evaporator core temp sensor. As the ambient air temp increases, the air holds more moisture and the AC unit works harder (runs more) to condense the moisture from the air and to cool the hotter air. If the sensor is reading too high, the compressor will continue to run, when it should be cycled off to keep the core above freezing, so that it doesn't begin to ice up lose its ability to cool the air even though air is still flowing through the core. My guess it's not only temp related but also the amount of moisture in the air. So, lower humidity, it might not ice up completely. It's an cheap, easy replacement. I'd just do it, if dealer doesn't.

When you replace the 12V battery, you need to reset the Battery Monitoring System (Age). If the 12 V battery was replaced at one time and the age was not reset when replaced (even dealers fail to reset it) , then the charging algorithm will continue to use the estimated capacity losses of the old battery via “coulomb counting” in determining how to charge the new battery. This can result in a very low state of charge in the single digits because the PCM will reduce the set point charging voltage of the DC-DC converter believing the battery is reaching the max Ah capacity left in the battery. You can reset the age with the FORScan app for smartphones using the appropriate OBDII adapter ($15 or so). http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/7721-forscan-lite-service-and-test-functions-available/ https://forscan.org/

Yes, so the BCM likely has always been detecting the key. During the startup process and continually thereafter, the are many monitors that run to check the status of the Hybrid power system, for example are the high voltage battery contractors closed. If a monitor check fails when trying to restart, the software will not allow the car to start normally if at all. There is likely an intermittent issue where most times the startup checks pass but later a monitor finds an problem with the Hybrid system, issues the stop safely now message, and allows driving but in a limited mode. Most times upon restart the car starts and runs fine for example, the HVB contractors closed correctly and passed the startup check upon restart. Hopefully, the stop safely now and DTCs will reoccur at dealer.

Here's how the Remote Keyless Entry System is suppose to work. 1) When you touch the door handle, the Remote Function Actuator module sends a low frequency signal with a range of about 3 feet via three antenna. When an FOB is within this range and detects the signal OR alternatively, when you push the FOB to unlock the door, the FOB transmits a high frequency message to the RF Receiver. The RF Receiver via the RFA sends the message to the Body Control Module on the Medium Speed-CAN. The BCM validates that the FOB data is correct and sends a command to the Door Module to unlock the door. - DOES NOT WORK 2) When the start/stop button is pressed, a voltage signal is sent to the RFA module. When the RFA module detects the signal from the start/stop switch, it begins the key initialization sequence by activating the 3 interior PATS antennas. Each PATS antenna transmits a low frequency signal with an approximate range of 1 m (3 ft). The passive key activates if it is within range of 1 of the 3 PATS antennas. The BCM validate the data and if OK initiates the startup sequence. - DOES NOT WORK 3) A no start condition may exist if the FOB battery is low, an antenna has failed, or the RFR has failed. This is when one places the FOB in the backup transceiver slot on the right side of the steering wheel and pushes the start/stop button to start. - DOES NOT WORK 4) When you push the start/stop button, no message is being displayed that a key is not detected. This to me is puzzling. It implies a key was detected, but the startup process stopped. What if you don't push the brake pedal? any different. What happens, if you leave FOB away from car and attempt to start? any messages? So, first make sure your 12 V battery voltage is fine. If voltage is fine, then the only common component with the the first three items above on your car is the FOB. It could be possible that there is a double contingency events - failure of the backup transceiver in addition to another component like the RFR / RFA / antenna but I would think that there would be DTCs stored for these component failures. If the BCM is expecting something to happen that doesn't, there is virtually always a DTC that dealer should have found.

A battery charger / maintainer is the best option as noted in above post. But since it's outdoors and you may not want to put a battery charger / maintainer on it, fully charge the battery with a battery charger (can take 16 hours or so) just before disconnecting negative cable from the ground stud in hatch area. Put tape around cable terminal so it doesn't touch ground. If battery is in "good" condition, it should start up on return. However, if battery is older, its storage capacity will have diminished since new and self discharge while disconnected could yield a no start condition upon return. How old is your battery? If it has been replaced, did dealer do it and reset the Battery Monitoring System (age)? The reason is a fully charged newer battery should be able to start car even if left connected at 30+ days assuming a 20 mA average parasitic drain would be around 40%. snowstorm says - "With car OFF, opening/shutting the door sends the current to about 8 amps. After a minute or so it steps its way down to about 0.4 amps. Then after maybe 30 minutes or more it finally drops to under 0.01 amps)." However, if battery was replaced and dealer did not reset age, your battery State of Charge (available capacity) may be low. The vehicle charging algorithm will use its computed lower SOC and not charge a new battery to the higher appropriate charge level. So, if you don't know, then you should at minimum charge battery with charger whether leaving connected or disconnected. Can you measure your battery voltage to see what it is? If should be around 12.6 - 12.7 Volts for a newer battery (and age reset). If it's 12.4 or lower (I've seen 12.2 Volts prior to battery reset with the BMS showing single digit SOC). either battery is old (has lost capacity) or charging algorithm was not reset and is using its computed lost capacity from last reset.

Never done a Ford but they all should be similar. Is the piston rotating? or it won't rotate. Clockwise to push piston in. The piston can get "stuck" with gunk/rust and not rotate in easily. Work it back and forth. Are you using a tool to turn it? I've been able to turn a piston in with needle nose pliers when the brake tool I had didn't match up to the piston. I've also had to use channel lock pliers and grab the piston (while applying light force on piston with clamp) to rotate it as the piston was "stuck" and could not rotate it with tool. Just be careful not to grab the rubber boot on piston.

And you don't have to pay $0.15 per gallon extra for branded gas with Techron although many Top Tier stations sell branded gas with Techron. I can always find Top Tier gas that is the same or lower price than non Top Tier Gas. I switched to Top Tier in the early 2000s after having mis-firing issues in my Passat and haven't had misfires in my vehicles since.

Make sure you understand about High Voltage Battery degradation before you buy an Energi - both how to determine existing battery degradation of a used Energi and how to mitigate battery degradation (all the hoops you have to jump through to preserve the battery). Also, a few early MY C-Maxes have had transmission failures (bearing issues) out of warranty ($7k+ for new and $3k+ for used transmissions). Look for a later MY - late 2015+ build date and lower miles. I also drive lots of freeway and interstate miles at Eco-cruise set at around 78+ mph. You will be doing well if you can get mid 30s actual mpg (not car displayed mpg) and great if you can get upper 30's doing an average speed of 75+ mph (not what speedometer says as it's usually at least 1 mph slower than actual). I figure if I ran 3 mph slower (75 average), I'd increase FE by about 1.5 mpg. IMO, the C-Max is a great cruising vehicle at high speeds. I don't like the OEM Michelin Energy Saver tires as the tires are built for FE not performance especially in the rain. The ESs will provide an increase of 2-3% in mpg over many other tires.