plus 3 golfer

Yes. See screenshots from iPad Pro.

Need flashlight, needle nose pliers to make it easier to pull fuse out and put back in. Open passenger door and push seat back. Look beneath the glove box for a flexible panel with two push pin connectors holding it in place. Pull push pins off and remove panel. Might want to leave it off in case one has to access again. Use fingers or needle nose pliers to pull the blue fuse #79 circled in red on the attachment. Wait 30 seconds or so and put back in.

Recently, ForScan added Service and Test Functions to the ForScan Apps available for Smartphones. One can now run self tests on modules, reset modules, and perform many service functions like Battery Monitoring (Age) Reset. See attached screen captures. Perhaps the APIM reset function (instead of pulling fuse) will clear the radio hangup issue and future dead battery. How can one be without ForScan now. :wub2:

I just checked operations with ForScan. The only DTC that is set when I don't press the brake pedal when starting is B10D7:81-2F PATS Key (Invalid Serial Data Received) from the body control module but this DTC does not trigger the CEL. If the OP presses the brake pedal and car does not start but gets this DTC, perhaps the brake switch is faulty.

What code reader did you purchase? The FORScan App for smartphones will scan all modules in the car. Since the check engine light is on, there are diagnostic trouble codes. You likely just need a code reader that scans all the Ford modules. You will need an elm327 interface to plug into the OBDIi port. Read the link below. https://forscan.org/

Last straw might be to make a call to the Service Adviser at the dealer. If he's willing to help (rather than say bring it in and for $160 we'll tell you), he can certainly ask a tech how to get it open since you've verified that voltage is being applied to the switch / motor. Looking at the parts diagram, I cant believe that the assembly won't come out after you removed the 3 screws for the latch and 2 for the striker. What else can be holding them in place??? https://parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/latch-assy-tailgate-7808645-1

If you pull connector you can check if voltage is being applied to the motor momentarily when the BCM tries to actuate the motor. If not. you can apply 12 V to the motor? See attachment. Is there a way to manually rotate motor with a wrench, screwdriver? Is it possible to remove the 2 screws holding the liftgate release switch / motor and perhaps try to lift the assembly out which might rotate latch to open.

Good try. Let us know what the problem is and how they opened the hatch. I’ve owned two other Ford products. 1965 Mustang and 1986 Sable Wagon. The Sable was nothing but trips to the dealer in our 2 years of ownership. I vowed never to own another Ford and didn’t until 12/2012 when I purchased our C-Max. Our C-Max experience, being one of the best of cars we’ve owned, makes it more likely I’ll buy a Ford product to replace it. Amazing how ones experience with a product affects customer loyalty. Some manufacturers get it and others don’t. Here’s an interesting survey by Edmunds. https://static.ed.edmunds-media.com/unversioned/img/industry-center/analysis/2018-edmunds-loyalty-report.pdf

I do a lot of high speed driving on interstates / freeways outside of Phoenix and the biggest issue is pooling / draining of water across the lanes and in the "ruts" worn in the pavement by vehicles. I do not like to start a 4+k mile round trip with less than 4/32" of tread. There's a noticeable difference when running newer tires and worn tires when driving through these areas of water on the pavement with respect to hydroplaning. In Phoenix, I probably drive in a "haboob" more days a year than in the rain. :) We have very heavy localized summer storms (during the "Monsoon" season) that might dump at the rate of 2-4 inches an hour and are generally fast moving and tend to pop up and die out and account for most of the 8" average annual rainfall measured at the airport. I believe the worst rain I ever drove through was between Atlanta and Birmingham taking the southern route back from Pittsburgh due to snow / ice storms in KY and further north and west. I don't recall what our average speed was but we'd hit bands of torrential rain every so often for maybe 20 miles at a time. Even trucks were pulling off the road as one could only see the taillights of vehicles from maybe 75 feet (it was mid-day). Attached is some NHTSA 2005-2007 data on tread depth vs % of tire-related vehicle crashes vs other vehicle crashes. It clear that cars with more tread wear have a higher likelihood of being in a crash (95% statistical significance). You can find lots of reports on NHTSA web site. The way I look at it: if I drive with 3/32 to 4/32" tread, I am about 1.25 X more likely to be in a tire related crash than driving with more than 4/32" tread. But, what's my odds of being in a crash? I was in one crash in 1967 when I pulled out at night unto a 35 mph street and was rear ended by someone just as I shifted to second gear. I wonder what his tread depth was. I had to instruct the police officer to measure his skid marks of 133 feet before the impact that totaled my car. The driver said he was following someone. Just before I pulled out, a car went by me likely doing over 70 mph. So, I've driven well over 1 million miles with one crash. Maybe I'll run my tires down to 2/32" as the 1.25 X factor hardly changes my miles per crash - nah I'll stick with the around 4/32". :) Bottom line: people will always construct tests to justify their beliefs and interpret data to suit themselves including AAA. We had people saying the C-Max is a 47 mpg car because they can get 47 mpg and it is for them but not for the vast majority. Everything has a price. NHTSA established the 2/32" (we trust the government to protect our interests / lives ;)). I am always amused on the Energi sight when people who purchased Energis new / used believe Ford should have told them how to operate their Energi to preserve the HVB. Don't rely on others to protect your interest (tire safety, HVB, and so forth).

It just dawned on me that maybe one can remove the liftgate trim from the inside of the car instead of doing it normally with the hatch open. Here's my post with pics on how to remove the trim. It looks doable if one is rather small and flexible. :) http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/6200-liftgate-finish-handle-trim-busted-off/?p=68388

See attachment and link (although I doubt most will read the 699 pages) about the highlighted red text. Basically, as tire pressure is increased, the smaller tire contact path when cornering can result in tire deformation because the sidewall stiffening is overcome by the increased lateral forces due to the smaller contact path. So, once this pressure is reached, the tire is more likely to slide because the lateral force (cornering) + longitudinal force (straight line) exceeds the traction force. One thus would want to keep inflation pressure at or below this condition. Add wet roads and the tire would likely slide sooner than on dry roads. This sliding is not the same as lateral slip. "The lateral slip of a tire is the angle between the direction it is moving and the direction it is pointing. This can occur, for instance, in cornering, and is enabled by deformation in the tire carcass and tread. Despite the name, no actual sliding is necessary for small slip angles. Sliding may occur, starting at the rear of the contact patch, as slip angle increases." We don't know what this pressure might be for the Michelin but their wet track performance is not as good as others. I would not advocate increasing pressure to improve wet performance as I want the “best” pressure for emergency situations. I ran 44 psi in my E/S as that seemed to give the best all around performance for me. I believe the above is why my General Altimax RT43 (98) tires seem to keep the tires on the road better than the Michelin E/S (94) when cornering. “Sliding” is very noticeable under wet and dry conditions in the Michelin’s. I'm currently running the Altimax tires at 50 PSI. I feel a lot safer in the Altimax tires than the Michelin E/S. :) My points are: the AAA study indicates tread depth affects wet tire performance and NHTSA (and others) indicate that increasing inflation pressure too high may hurt tire performance. As I've said before there is more to tire performance than MPG. :) http://www.safetyresearch.net/Library/NHTSA_Pneu_Tire.pdf

The attached study on recent wet tire tests confirms what I have always experienced as tire wear especially approaching the wear bars and is why I always replace tires well before 2/32” tread depth usually just below the 4/32” depth. Just look at finding 2 below. The wet stopping distance and lateral acceleration have significantly worsened from new at 4/32”. Dry traction and handling generally improve as tires wear but not so under wet conditions. The data is best case data as the tires were worn down using Michelin test equipment but the tires were not aged (which would further degrade the test results of worn tires. https://www.aaa.com/AAA/common/AAR/files/Tire-Study-Report.pdf#page6 “Key Findings: 1. On average, new high-priced tires did not perform significantly better than new low-priced tires in terms of stopping distance on a wet road surface, maximum lateral acceleration on a wet road surface and NVH characteristics. 2. Compared to new tires, tires worn to a tread depth of 4/32” exhibit: a. An increased stopping distance of 42 percent for the Toyota Camry and 44 percent for the Ford F-150. When decelerating from 60 mph, worn tires are still traveling at 39 mph and 37 mph at the average stopping point of new tires for the Toyota Camry and F-150, respectively. b. A decreased maximum lateral acceleration on a wet road surface of 33 percent for the Toyota Camry and 28 percent for the Ford F-150. 3. A set of four higher priced tires cost, on average, $247.52 more for the Toyota Camry and $203.80 for the Ford F-150.”

You may simply have a defective battery. Whether defective or not, reset the battery age (as I have said this probably a 100 X) when you replace the battery. If you don't, the charging algorithm will continue to use the every degrading Ah capacity of the old battery which is computed by the "coulomb counting" routine and hence will only charge the battery to a very low State of Charge. If the age was never reset since the car was new, I doubt you will ever get much above a 20% SOC and only after driving the car for maybe 45 minutes or so. Even if you charge with an external charger to a 100% SOC, the car's charging algorithm will not maintain the level. Also, even Ford dealers will neglect to reset battery age. ;) One way to tell if the age was reset, is to leave radio on, turn car off, don't open any doors and time how long it takes for the system to shut down. When reset, the algorithm (assuming battery charge is high enough) will shut down the system to conserve power after exactly 10 minutes. As the battery loses capacity over time, this energy saving feature will continually decrease the time until shutdown.

There was a TSB 14-0070 issued for the lift gate ajar message adjustment procedure and power lift gate not latching properly but it doesn't address what to do if liftgate won't open. OP, the BCM is located behind the fuse block under the glove box. The battery junction box is in the engine bay with the higher powered fuses. Did you look on youtube for videos on opening latched liftgate manually? Others including those with other Ford products may have had this issue. There's got to be a way. I wonder if you can pry off the cover of the latch from inside the car. I'd try but don't want to break cover. :)

So, you put in a new fuse 65 under the glove box which is also the location of the Body Control Module? Also, make sure you have 12 V on the fuse as it is hot all the time. Now, try to open the lift gate. You should hear a relay click on the BCM when you try to open the lift gate. If not then the BCM likely needs replaced as that relay is not serviceable. If relay on BCM clicks, then the issue is likely wiring or latch motor at lift gate. Also, there may be lift gate DTCs thrown for certain lift gate issues that the modules detect. I looked in the manual for a way to manually release latch but didn’t find anything. One would think there should be a way to push latch open with say a screw driver from inside the hatch area.

Yes, CSP 12M02 was an extended warranty for 5 years on the APIM software and hardware for 2013 and 2014 C-Maxes. So, it has expired for most 2013/14 MYs. Really don’t know whether problem was ever “fixed” by Ford in the 5 year period - apparently not for my car.

I assume you were running A/C? The algorithms will factor in variables such as ambient temp, ICE load, A/C load and speed (airflow through coolers) to maintain ECT between about 185 - 189 F by operating the grille shutters. Now with A/C off, grille shutters will remain closed until ECT is around 192-195F and will fully open IIRC around 212F. Also, IIRC thermostat is full open at 205 F. Thus, you will normally see lower ECT with A/C on all other things being equal. I have several posts with recorded data explaining how the grille shutters work. So, with the towing load, 75-85 mph, uphill, and 100F+, you might get ECT near 212 F based on my observations. When stopped even though grille shutters are open 100%, the cooling fan is likely not providing as much air flow as driving does through the coolers and hence, even though coolant is being circulated, the heat being removed via the coolers in now less than the heat being added by the hot engine. One other point, I've never monitored the electric coolant pump (I'll record some data next time out). For all we know, the algorithms may shut it down or reduce its speed when car is stopped to conserve energy since ECT is OK and ICE is not running. The coolant fan is generally running to remove heat from the A/C refrigerant loop not necessarily to cool ICE at low speeds as the compressor demand unlike ICE at low speeds is fairly constant. There's no reason to "waste" energy by speeding up the fan when the ECT is normal. Also, as fbov says, the temperature in the cylinder head (likely the hottest part of the engine) where the CHT sensor is located will likely increase. There is no ECT sensor. ECT is an inferred value based on the CHT sensor. A lot of the data I recorded was driving through TX with cruise set at 85 mph and 100F+.

https://www.google.com/search?q=kick+stuck+wheel&rlz=1C9BKJA_enUS827US827&oq=kick+stuck+wheel&aqs=chrome..69i57.6875j0j9&hl=en-US&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=1

Great report. You and SS have shown that we don’t have to be held “hostage” by Ford for a transmission failure at $7k+.

LOL, when I read this I thought: hasn't happened to my C-Max in 6 1/2 years of ownership. But no more. :shrug: We got in car to go to dine, and radio didn't work and wife says it didn't work in the morning either. After lunch, I showed my wife how to pull fuse 79 with a pair of needle nose pliers and put back in to reset radio. I mentioned to her if not reset, battery drains and car may not start. So, to my jumper cables already in the car, I added my needle nose pliers (flashlight already in car) and left panel below glove box off. She is now equipped to handle situation when I'm not around. :) I'm now a believer. "They do, all do that". :2thumbs:

That's a good question. I believe sometime in 2015 Ford may have made changes to the transmission based on the following: on or before 3/1/2015, based on Ebay listings for transmissions, early transmission through 3/1/2015 are shown to fit only MY 2013,14, and 15.on or before 8/15/2015 based on the TSB 16-0105 - "Some 2013-2016 Fusion, MKZ and 2013-2015 C-Max vehicles equipped with an HF35 transmission and built on or before 8/15/2015 may exhibit a thumping/rubbing or grinding noise coming from the transmission".no new TSB has been issued extending the coverage of CSP 14B07 (November 9, 2015) which included 2013, 2014, and 2015 C-MAXs and expired May 31, 2016 covering the issue regardless of miles. The latest TSB 17-0039 (April 20, 2017) simply updates the service procedure but does not change the 8/15/2015 build date. However, it does include some 2016 MY C-Max. "Some 2013-2016 Fusion, MKZ and 2013-2016 C-MAX vehicles equipped with an HF35 transmission and built on or before 15-Aug-2015 may exhibit a thumping/rubbing or grinding noise coming from the transmission".If I were buying a used C-Max, I'd look at MY 2016+ built well after the 8/15/2015 date and more likely a MY 2017 as it should have a "good" transmission. If Ford would issue a TSB on the issue extending the warranty / mileage of early MYs, I might consider an earlier MY. But then again maybe Ford will issue another TSB that includes MY 2017. :)

My right side tab broke about 2 years ago. I first tried packing tape several times holding the handle to the liftgate body but would loosen up after several months. About one year ago, I decided to simply epoxy the handle to the liftgate body. This is still solid after a year. I simply mixed the epoxy and applied liberally under the handle with liftgate up and then taped handle down to body to hold while the epoxy set (liftgate still up). Epoxy will slide down liftgate body while setting up. So, if doing again, I would put painters tape on the body under the handle to make cleanup easier after epoxy hardens. Also, my last resort will be to take panels off and attempt fix, if the epoxy doesn't hold. Here's my post on the procedure for removing panels to get to liftgate handle. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/6200-liftgate-finish-handle-trim-busted-off/?p=68388

Some transmissions have failed due to bad bearing(s) on the transfer shaft. The shaft will ultimately bore a hole in the transmission casing. See the attached. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_id=2319http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_id=2319 http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/5257-transmission-leak/page-3

Several have had issues with the APIM module where radio quits and day or so later “no start”. IIRC, took 5 weeks in shop for dealer to find problem for one member. Have you tried pulling fuses 67 and 79 to reset modules. This doesn’t fix the APIM issue, which likely is APIM or other modules hang up and drains the 12 V battery. But at least if the APIM and other modules reset, the drain likely goes away (until the next time). Fuse 67: Message center module, Navigation module, Accessory Protocol Interface Module, and Telematic Control Unit Fuse 79: Audio Control Module and Front Controls Interface Module

Oops I attached the 2015 document not the 2017 which is attached below. OBDSM1700_HEV.pdf