plus 3 golfer

I have no idea as I'm not aware of anyone that has had one replaced. Ford has run tests which indicates several hundred thousand miles of useful life. The HVB will likely "outlive" the car. :) See link. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/uploads/monthly_01_2018/post-167-0-38526400-1515341742.png

I usually watch in addition to tire pressure,12V battery SOC, Voltage, and charging current into battery, HVB SOC and current, various coolant and component temperatures especially when it’s 110+F in AZ or if using grille covers in winter to increase engine operating temp, speed, and other PIDs that might help in after the fact analysis and explanation of how systems might work for example: questions on how much the AC use affects Fuel economy or how do the grille shutters operate, and so forth

You need to scan for DTCs. One can get the FORScan app and a OBD2 elm327 adapter and scan for codes and look at virtually all PID data that’s available for Ford vehicles. https://forscan.org/home.html Steering sensor data and likely wheel speed sensor data are needed for park assist and traction control.

Had this several years ago. Never happened again.

You will also need a solvent for dielectric grease to ensure it’s completely removed from the battery mating surfaces.

Contrary to what most people think, dielectric grease is an insulator not a conductor of electricity and should never be put on loose connections / mating surfaces of an electrical circuit. It is used to keep moisture off surfaces that might corrode. If it is dielectric grease (or silicone) on the battery, I can see why your FOBs are not working very well. There will be higher resistance in the battery circuit (act like a failing battery where range / operations will be sketchy). It won't affect RF transmissions.

I should have looked at your first pic closer as it’s now obvious to me that it is the wrong panel opening. I’ve never opened the upper panel. So, the module being there was a surprise, so I googled it and saw “Focus”. Anyways, hope it’s the fuse.

Here's a pic of my 2013 SEL C-Max Hybrid not FOCUS. NO CCM just Rear Fuse Block with F27. Do you have a Hybrid or not?

AFAIK, all Ford warranties (3/36 B2B, 5/60 power train, and the 8/100 unique hybrid components) transfer to new owners.

That's a pic of a Ford Focus Comfort Control Module. USA C-Max doesn't use that Module. The rear junction fuse block is located there in the C-Max Hybrid You are likely looking in the wrong area for a fuse block as a fuse block would not be located behind a module. Do you have a Hybrid?

This is why one pulls fuse 79 when radio doesn't work correctly - to likely prevent a battery drain when car is off and subsequent dead battery. If the battery "dies", the car may lose some settings. Unless there's a hard failure, dealer will be no help. It's a common problem. Many experience the radio / touchscreen "freeze" more frequently than others (1 time since new for me). As fbov says: "I hate the phrase "They all do that" but they do. Happens to mine every 18 mos., four times in six years.”

You can download the Owner's Manual. See this post and the next post for pic. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/7719-radio-won’t-turn-off-and-hands-free-doesn’t-work/?p=72987

If dealer replaced ACM twice and you still have issue, the issue is likely not caused by ACM. There are many that have the radio not turn off. Some more than others. Have you tried pulling fuse 79 under glove box when it happens. That should reset whatever is causing the issue and your battery will “live”. It’s happened to me only one time since I purchased the car in Dec. 2012. As fbov has said: “I hate the phrase "They all do that" but they do. Happens to mine every 18 mos., four times in six years.”

Transmission fluid doesn't "vaporize". My guess is you are hearing the infamous "thumping" TSB sounds associated with bad bearings on the transfer shaft. The transfer shaft will ultimately bore a hole in the transmission case and thus fluid can leak from the engine side of the transmission case into the damper housing case and eventually onto the belly cover. See the latest "thumping" TSB. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10148717-9999.pdf

I thought all you had to do was to use an Admin key to start the car and then in the menus you can clear all MyKeys. There must be a minimum of 2 Admin keys programmed into the Body Control Module. You can program up to 8 keys. How did the replacement key get set as a MyKey? If you get the extended license version of ForScan for windows, you can program keys. Here's the post on the ForScan forums. https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=10230&p=36198&hilit=programming+keys#p35045

Welcome Carl. As Paul says there is a forum for the Energi. You may want to go to that site and read about the High Voltage Battery and the tips (especially rbort's) on how to operate the car to slow the natural degradation of the HVB since higher ambient temperatures when driving and charging can significantly impact battery degradation especially in the heat of Phoenix.

The reversing (backup) lamps are operated by the Body Control Module via a relay (Fuse 76) when the BCM receives a command over the HS-Can that the car is in "R". The lamp assembly on the liftgate has 2 bulbs - the top reverse lamp and the lower park lamp. There are no separate fuses for the stop / turn / park lights. The BCM controls the lighting of these lamps. The lamp assembly on the body has 2 lamps - the top is the turn signal and lower lamp is a dual filament park and brake lamp. I had problems on a MB where a rear lamp assembly failed and there was an open connection to ground on one bulb. Since the assembly was expensive, I jury-rigged the ground connection from the un-grounded lamp to the connector to complete the ground connection. The rear hatch is operated by the BCM via a relay (Fuse 60). If one light is OK, than the other is likely a bad lamp. Go here to look up parts. https://www.fordpartworld.com/ So, if the turn signals and park lamps work, then one can assume the ground connection for the brake lamps are likely OK since it is unlikely both assemblies would open to ground. Also, if the high brake light works, one can assume that the brake pedal sensor is OK and likely that the BCM is OK. There are individual positive control wires to the 3 brake lights as the BCM will store DTC if it senses the brake lights are not functioning. You can get the FORScan App for smartphones ($6) and an applicable ELM327 adapter (<$20) to plug into the OBD2 port and scan the BCM for fault codes. Or, it could just be 2 burnt out brake bulbs. https://forscan.org/

There are only two possible sources for the abrupt slowing down (jerking): the traction motor applies significant regeneration force to the output shaft or the ABS applies brakes. I believe there would be too many checks which would prevent regeneration kicking in at such low speed, in D and accelerating even if several sensors failed. So, that leaves the ABS system. So what can cause the brakes to be applied normally without brake pedal when accelerating? failure of sensors like wheel speed sensors, pitch and yaw sensors (located in RCM), steering wheel sensor which may trigger a stability / traction control event to which the ABS system reacts by applying appropriate braking. Turn off Traction Control in the left hand display (I think it's under information, settings / driver assist) and see if you still get the jerking. Stability control will still be enabled as that cannot be turned off.

It could be that the 12V battery is not being charged because of a bad 150 A 12 V fuse assembly which is attached to the + terminal of the 12 V battery. The battery once externally charged will check OK. There have been several members that have had the assemblies develop high resistance and cause the no start issue. The issue is hard to detect by the dealer because the 12 V battery checks OK and there are no DTCs. See the red circled assembly in the attachment. Apparently, the fuse assembly develops high resistance and prevents proper charging of the 12 V battery by limiting the charging voltage to the battery. So, even though the DC/DC converter is putting out say 14.5 V, the 12 V battery may see a lot less voltage since the resistance of the fuse assembly is in series with the battery resistance. Once the PCM sends the set point voltage to the DC/DC converter, the car runs fine as the converter holds the voltage to the set point. But, when the car is shut off, it won't take long for the 12 V battery to drain down from normal "car off" load to the point where restarting can be problematic depending on how low the voltage is. So, the module voltage may or may not be sufficient to allow modules to detect key and if key detected, other modules voltages may not be sufficient to allow startup of the car. IIRC, one way to check the fuse assembly without disconnecting it is by feel or IR gun. If there is higher resistance, it should heat up.

AFAIK, no extensions past 8/15/ 2015 but that doesn’t mean whatever is causing the bearing issue has been “fixed.” The latest TSB is 18-2328 dated Oct. 30, 2018 which replaces 17-0039. The reason for the new TSB is an incorrect procedure. Remember these TSBs are to help Dealers resolve issues but does not extend the 8 year / 100k miles (whichever comes first) unique hybrid Ford warranty which covers replacement of the original transmission in the vehicle (warranty not tied to original owner). The new, replacement transmission is not covered by this hybrid warranty but by Ford’s replacement parts warranty. We don’t know what changes, if any, Ford made to mitigate potential bearing failure in newer transmissions. We can only speculate that cars with the HF35 built after 8/15/2015 have a less likelihood of having this issue. Also, IMO, the C-Max is great car but resale value is low. Why would someone privately sell a great car for a “low” price. :)

With over 100k miles on my C-Max, I do monitor SOC and usable energy of the HVB. My recording of data shows that the usable energy (kWh) is still over 0.51 kWh which shows as a SOC range of 34%-71% SOC, virtually the same range as new.

Did you show the video to the dealer? Clearly, something is amiss. What's the grade when you back out and stop? Is car level, uphill or downhill? Steering wheel is turned going backward. Then, when shifted to D, it appears that the "jerking" occurred as soon as the steering wheel was turned to go forward and then twice more as wheel is turned. Does the bucking happen if you pull back towards the garage and not turn the steering wheel? Do you know if the event happens if you accelerate briskly from a stop? The whooshing sound occurs after the jerk which, IMO, is air rushing into the vacuum booster. "The ABS module continually monitors the vacuum in the brake booster through the use of a vacuum sensor. When the vacuum sensor indicates vacuum is below a predetermined level during a braking event or if the driver attempts to stop the vehicle with a low vacuum condition in the brake booster, the ABS module activates the hydraulic pump motor in the HCU to assist with vehicle braking." So, when you shift from R to D, hill start assist should auto kick in which should hold the car in place for about 1.5 seconds to allow transition from brake pedal to accelerator. The car will be held in place until there is sufficient torque requested by the accelerator pedal to move car forward at which time the brake pressure is reduced to allow car to move. But what happens if there is low vacuum (maybe faulty sensor, leaky vacuum valve) and the hydraulic pump kick in to assist to hold car in place and then vacuum is OK momentarily and the pump shuts down but kicks in again at slow speeds? Will the car jerk? I don't know but it could be a spike in hydraulic brake pressure if pump cycles on/off at low speeds that will easily stop vehicle. Also, the fact that you have to pump brakes a few time after turning off grade assist so as not to get jerking seems to point brake booster / low vacuum. OPTIONS: 1) Try another dealer (but problem may be above dealer tech pay grade). 2) Open a case with Ford via phone (you can ask dealer if they will do it) to get their engineers involved. Point to safety issues and ask for a knowledgeable person to call back and send them the video link. 3) I believe that by recording data when this event happens, one can analyze the data, and more than likely find why this event happens. With the ForScan App and an OBDII adapter, one can record data, load data into excel and graph data. I believe one can assess whether certain components are OK like the RCM, sensors and so forth. 4) Do you know if brake lights come on when the jerk happens, if not, then NHTSA may consider this event as a safety issue. You can file a complaint with NHTSA and also look at complaints filed that may be similar to this.

That might be possible as you put a lot of miles on your car such that the 12V battery will be charged for a longer time and the SOC would likely remain higher than someone that drives fewer miles and the charging algorithm rarely charges to a higher SOC. I believe that SOC level and amount of charge depleted affects how long before the algorithm sheds load when DCDC converter is off. AFAIK, the BMS battery reset “zeroes out” the battery losses computed from the coulomb counting (integrating the current flow in/out of the battery) and perhaps estimates of self discharge loss. The PCM then continuously uses this data and SOC to calculate a set point charging voltage for the DC/DC converter that will decline over time as the battery reaches what the PCM believes is the current Ah in the battery (New Battery Ah rating less Ah losses less perhaps aging loss). Self discharge is minimal when a battery is new but accelerates as the battery ages from use and self discharge.

Did the dealer reset the 12 V Battery Monitoring System to indicate a new battery? Otherwise, the charging algorithm will continue to use the calculated energy losses of the old battery in determining the appropriate charging regime. It will mean that the new battery will likely be charged to a lower SOC than it should be.

Like Paul said the battery symbol is for the HVB. One must recognize that the symbol is showing the "usable" range of the HVB not the entire capacity of the HVB. The HVB capacity = 1.4 kWh (when new) = 100% State of Charge. The symbol shows from about 30% SOC of the 1.4 kWh to about 70% of the 1.4 kWh range or about 0.56 kWh (40% of the 1.4 kWh) when the very tip of the symbol is blue. See the graph below showing the approximate relationship between what the symbol shows and the "actual" SOC of the HVB. The typical range of HVB operation when driving is from high 30s / low 40s to low 50s % SOC. So, even if the symbol might drop 25%, the SOC really fell about 10% or only around 0.14 kWh. Temperature will affect the capacity of the HVB but generally when ambient temps are higher there should be little effect (maybe 5% of actual SOC) based on curves of lithium ion cells.. I don't know how / when the Battery Management System adjusts SOC but it has to do such periodically to compensate for "drift" of the calculation methods it uses. As far as cell balancing, the BMS, when required, equalizes the charge of the 76 cells that make up the HVB by draining charge from the cells with the highest voltage. This will affect SOC. There are many checks to ensure the HVB is operating most efficiently and to prevent damage to cells. There will be Diagnostic Trouble Codes thrown if these checks exceed thresholds. For example in the Energi’s 84 cell HVB, the BMS checks groups of 6 cells to make sure that the difference between each cell less the average of the 6 cells is less than 75 mV (0.075 V). A DTC will be thrown if this check fails. I assume that as cells age, the variation in cell voltage will increase and thus the loss due to equalization will increase and we might see a larger drop in SOC. With 113 k miles on my C-Max, it sure seems that I see more of a drop in SOC now than when new although I never monitored the drop.