plus 3 golfer

My vote. OP, with the exhaust cool, grab the muffler and shake in all directions. It should move a good bit but with no banging / thumping.

Yes, it's 3M, heavy duting, packaging tape. The tape is very sticky and because it's a 90 degree angle between the body and handle, you need to keep the tape from touching the body and handle at the same time to minimize the separation. You will not be able to use the putty knife to press against the seperation if the tape is adhered to both the body and handle as the tape does not stretch. It took me a few tries to push the handle towards the body to minimize the seperation while holding the putty knife against the tape and not having the tape touch both the body and handle until the gap is minimized. Perhaps, a second set of hands would help. The key though is to lift the handle up when opening the hatch and not to pull out on the handle when opening. Not doing so, is likely why the tab broke in the first place. So, given this, the tape is holding up. Edit: also, there are slight curved surfaces involved. After a few attempts, a couple of shorter tape strips is easier to apply than one long strip per side. There are less wrinkles in the two short strips.

https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2013_Ford_C-Max_Hybrid_SEL_2.0L_4_Cyl./battery/replace_battery

IMO, for a foot or so of tape, the handle now appears solid and it should mitigate the likelihood of additonal plastic tabs breaking. My wife and I are also now careful not to jerk the hatch open. Here's how you get to the 4 bolts that hold the handle in place.

About a year ago I'd had the right side seem loose. After looking underneat, the "apparent" plastic tab under the far right broke off. When lifting the tailgate there was considerable separation between the handle and body of the lift gate on the right side. Here's a pic of my solution. Note the two strips of clear packing tape. I used a putty knife to try to push the packing tape tight against the handle first by holding the tape away from the body of the liftback and then pressing the tape against the body. In this way there is very little gap between the handle and body. Even though the left side of the handle is solid, I put packing tape on the left side also. This seems to be working out fine as there is virtually no movement (separation) of the handle from the body when opening the liftgate.

The description is shown below. The QF test is also an inspection of the PCM connector for bad connections, bent pins and so forth and the measurement / tests for voltage, grounds, opens, shorts, and so forth. It just may be a one-off event and will not happen again. If you didn't clear the DTC with your OBDII reader, the code should still be stored in memory. If you have time (assuming car is still under warranty) it may be worth taking into dealer to document DTC. I doubt the dealer will find / do anything since the issue is no longer present. They might "clean" the connector with something like DEOXIT but I doubt it. IMO, the old adage: "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", applies. :) P060A (PCM) - Internal Control Module Monitoring Processor Performance Description: This DTC sets when an error occurs in the PCM. Possible Causes: Software incompatibility issue Damaged PCM Diagnostic Aids: Verify the PCM is at the latest calibration level. Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory All GO to Pinpoint Test QF .

Describe your issue. Are you referring to the first post? I don't recall anyone else ever mentioning a message that says "see owner's manual." If this is the mssg, where is it displayed? As far as the Sync message, it is normal to get a mssg that says something like "shutting down to save power" and then "performing routine maintenance". If it is the "yellow wrench", you need the DTC. You can put the left screen in Engineering Test Mode (see post 17) and scroll through the screens to read the codes (see attachment). We can likely now "translate" what the codes say.

You need to provide for info. What does the service order say the problem was? The dealer should have listed Diagnostic Trouble Codes on the SO. For example, a DTC would be letters and numbers and should have a description like: TCM (transmission control module) no communication. If it happens again, you might want to disconnect the 12 V battery for a minute or so and see if the car will then drive after you reconnect it. There is a negative ground bolt located beneath the rear hatch storage compartment. Lift the lid of the storage compartment and pull out the bottom cover of the right comparment exposing the negative terminal bolt and positve 12 V battery terminal. Remove the bolt and lift the cable up so it doesn't touch ground. Doing this might reset all the modules allowing the car to be driven (at least back to the dealer).

I worried about this when I would leave my dog in the car. So, I always parked as far away from the restarurant as possible where there were virtually no cars around and no foot traffic. I'd also go out and check at least once or maybe twice if service was slow. My dog generally just lays on the seat and I have fairly dark tinted side / rear windows. So, some one would have to go out of there way to walk up very close to the car to see the dog and to hear the compressor or engine running when it ran to recharge, Besides the dog issue, in most states it's illegal to leave your car running unattended.

The Internal Combustion Engine (ICE) almost always charges the High Voltage Battery (HVB) when it is running. Yes, if you leave the car turned on, the AC will run off the HVB and when the HVB gets to low, ICE will start to recharge it. I have left my dog in the car many, many times when on trips when stopping for a bite to eat.

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If it's making a whining sound in neutral also and the issue is with the transmisson as Ford indicates, then the issue IMO is likely a failing bearing in the generator, sun gear, planet carrier, or planet gears as in neutral the ring gear and thus the traction motor and output shaft are not spinning. This, IMO, indicates the failure is internal to the unique hybrid components of the transmission and should be covered under the Hybrid Warranty (see below). I'm sure you heard the whoosing sound before 100k miles but it wasn't that bad until at 103k miles when you took it to the Ford dealer. ;) :) :) Be firm with the dealer and open a case with Ford as the problem likely started well before 100 k miles. "(4) Your vehicle’s unique hybrid / electric components are covered during the Hybrid / Electric Unique Component Coverage, which lasts for eight years or 100,000 miles, whichever occurs first. • The following hybrid parts are covered during this extended coverage period: high-voltage battery, hybrid continuously variable transmission ..."

About 4k miles ago (8 weeks ago), I put on my 3rd set of tires. My previous sets of tires (Original Michelin Energy Saver and Ecopia 422 Plus) both began getting "noisy" at 25 - 30 k miles. The Michelins were so noisy at 40+ k miles that I changed them after coming home from a long road trip at around 48 k miles even though they would have likely gone 60k+ miles. The Ecopia weren't quite as noisy as the Michelins at 40 k miles but I decided to change them at 42 k miles as I was planning several longer road trips including moving back to AZ. The Ecopias would have easily reached 50 - 60 k miles based on treadwear. So, my thought process was do I spend around $180 per tire for Michelins, $160 for Ecopias, or try something less expensive knowing that I'd like take a hit in FE but perhaps improve performance. BTW, my estimation is that my FE took a hit of about 2-3 % with the Ecopias over the Michelins (say 1 mpg at 40 mpg). IMO, the issue with the noisy tires is due to the "unadjustable" camber causing excessive rear inner tire wear and some feathering and cupping. After much research, I bought the General AltiMAX RT43. IMO after nearly 4 k miles of driving, the General's are hands down better than the Michelins and Ecopias with respect to performance, noise and ride comfort (especially if you like a stiffer feeling tire). The drawback with the General's is FE. I'd say that the Generals are 2-3 % worse than the Ecopias and 4-6% worse than the Michelins (2 mpg at 40 mpg). I know that those that value FE more than performance won't be able to live with the FE hit over the Michelins. But the performance of the Generals, IMO, runs circles around the Michelins. BTW, I'm running 45-46 psi in the Generals as they are a lot firmer feeling tire than the Michelins. I ran about 48 psi in the Michelins and Ecopias. IMO, the worst case scenario for me would be that I would use about 100 gallons more gas with the Generals than the Michelins or spend an extra say $225 in fuel. But the Generals are only about $110 a tire. Even after the $70 rebates for the Michelins, the Generals and Michelins should cost about the same over the life of the tire. I'll let the reader go to TireRack and read their test report on the General. I've attached several snips showing a comparison of the three tires from TireRack. Time will tell how the noise issue progresses with the Generals.

I believe there is a TSB but IIRC, it has the dealer replace the refrigerant, dryer and sensor (likely several $100). Evaporator core icing is a common issue on many cars not only the C-Max. Most will likley never notice it as the core won't completely freeze over and completely block air flow. I suggested in another thread to a poster that for $11 one should simply change the sensor. IIRC, the poster changed the sensor and it corrected the issue. As I explained in the other thread, the sensor monitors evaporator core temperature. When the temperature approaches freezing, the compressor is turned off so ice does not form on the core. So, a failing sensor that reads too high could allow ice to build up under moderate to low relative humidity. Even if the humidity might be low at 100F, when that 100F air is cooled to near 32F, the water vapor in the air will still condense on the core. So, if the sensor is faulty, the compressor will still run and cool the core to 32F or lower. It may take a long time for ice to build up to completely block air flow at low relative humidy and not so long at high humidity. Now the fact that turning the ac on and off might have reset it suggests that there may also be water in the refrigerant or low charge. That's likely why the TSB recommends replacing the sensor and refrigerant. But for $11 change the sensor. :) ;) EDIT: Here's the link to the TSB.

The C-MAX Internal Combustion Engine (ICE) has a TIMING CHAIN not a timing belt. I have no idea what "fsi" and "cf" are referencing. I have yet to hear of a timing chain failure on the C-Max. Based on many of your 11 posts, you clealy don't "read / understand" the posts / threads (many of which are several years old) which you are responding to, post "cryptic" responses, and most importantly give "bad, misinformed" advice.

Is it time to get ForScan? From ForScan: ===FCIM DTC U0452:82-08=== Code: U0452 - Invalid Data Received From Restraints Control Module Additional Fault Symptom: - Alive/Sequence Counter Incorrect/Not Updated Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Front Controls Interface Module ===END FCIM DTC U0452:82-08===

For comparison: SOC = 92%, I = 0.12 A, V_DSB = 14.4V, V at BCM = 14.35 (car on), V at BCM = 12.90 V (car off). What was your SOC when starting trip? And it only took 3 days of driving: 1916 miles 28 hours and 16 minutes to reach 92% from a starting SOC of 3%. :) IMO, the algorithm is acting like a 3 stage battery charger (initial faster charging state, slow charge state, and float charge state). For the first 4 hours of operations, current averaged around 0.75 A and SOC went from 3% to about 50%. During the next 8 hours, current averaged about 0.5 A and SOC went up to 80%. During the last 16 hours , current averaged about 0.19 A and state of charge ended at 92 %. From about 88% SOC, current was running about 0.12 A with 0.06 showing up sometimes. There was no abrupt change in current just a slow drop - slower charge rate as SOC increased. This still begs the question though. What does age of battery have to do with the charging scheme if anything? After 3 days of many short trips (2-4 miles each), the SOC is now at 32% and falling. It appears to me that the algorithm is not adequately applying a proper charging scheme. It's as if the algorithm believes the battery capacity is less than it actually is and hence reduces charging currently too quickly. IMO, this could happen if the age of the battery was not reset. "coulomb counting works well, especially with Li-ion that offer high coulombinc efficiency and low self-discharge. Improvements have been made by also taking aging and temperature-based self-discharge into consideration but periodic calibration is still recommended to bring the “digital battery” in harmony with the “chemical battery." - Batttery University

Don't know about CC. But if your speed is greater than CC set speed (no throttle), I don't know why ICE wouldn't spin up. I've filled the HVB many times and ICE spins for normal engine braking when foot is off accelerator going down hill. As you pick up speed, ICE spins proportionately. If it didn't, that would be like shifting to neutral which would likely be deemed a safety issue by NHTSA. If you shift to low, ICE speeds up even more. Look at this post.

ICE will be used for "normal" engine braking when SOC limit is reached without grade assist. When grade assist is used, ICE will be used when regeneration is not sufficient to maintain set speed. ICE rpm will vary resulting in more / less engine braking to maintain set speed. If engine braking is not sufficent to maintain set speed, the car will speed up. When that happens I shift to low. I've got a post about using grade assist going down about a five mile, many switchback turns, very steep grades without using the friction brakes. Many curves are 15 mph max. speed. It's the Salt River gorge on US 60 in AZ.

Here's the issue. HVB virtually never shows full when one shut car off. Could you take a pic of the HVB symbol when you turn car off and in the am when the issue happens and post. Is ICE on or off the last mile or so? Also, temperature affects SOC. Higher temp yields higher SOC. Colder am temps lowers SOC

Are you saying the HVB (high voltage battery) display symbol shows very low charge each time ICE (internal combustion engine starts) when you start the car in the AM? It is normal for ICE to start, if the HVB is too low. This has nothing to do with the 12 V battery. When you shut the car off in the evening what does the battery symbol show. Do you use EV+? Using EV+ can drain the HVB such that ICE will start when you restart the car in the morning. Do you have an SE or SEL?

That TSB will only be performed if the car is under warranty at no cost. It's likely the temperature sensor which gets replaced in the TSB. It's a $12 part and takes less than 5 minutes to replace. If one pays for this service under the TSB which also requires replacement of refrigerant it is likely several $100. OP see this thread and diagrams of how to replace the sensor.

Agree. My APIM now shuts down very quickly in a minute or so with SOC = 0%. Just got back from a 54 mile round trip (about 37 minutes one way). SOC started out showing zero. Charge current was about 1.88 A and V = 14.5. After about one hour of driving SOC finally showed 1% on the way home. After another 8 minutes SOC = 2% until I arrived home in about 6 minutes. Charge current the last 15 minutes was 0.88 and Voltage = 14.3 V. Again, I believe my incorrect Battery Age of now 1711 days is affecting my charging (or my battery is bad). So, my recommendation is when one replaces their battery, have it replaced by a Ford dealer and make sure they run the Battery Monitor System reset.

My wife had run many errands yesterday morning putting about 6 miles on car with several stops. I got home from golf around 1 PM. About 2 PM we went out and I connected my smartphone to monitor battery data. SOC = 0 % ? If it were a real gauge, I'd be banging on it to see if it were broken. Charging voltage = 14.5 V falling to 14.35 V for the rest of the 6 mile round trip with 2 stops. SOC remained at 0%. This morning my readings are SOC=0% and Voltage under hood = 12.02 V. Obviously, SOC is not zero as the car started. At 12.02 V SOC should be around 20 %. I got the following readings in ACC and On Mode. ACC Mode V= 12.9 V , I = 1.12 A charging On Mode V= 14.8 V falling quickly to 14.6 V with I = 12.5 A charging. Several likely hypotheses are: 1) my SOC is not zero as the car started, 2) the 8 hour F150 algorithm doesn't apply or calculates SOC incorrectly, 3) the algorithm uses the accumulated losses to determine how much charge to apply to the battery and thus undercharges my battery 4) my battery needs replaced (still under the 36 month free replacement) as it does not hold charge. Monday I'm going to the local Ford dealer and discuss this with the SA and see if they will test the battery for free. I was told prior when my previous battery died that for Ford to replace a battery under warranty they must charge it for several hours to insure it is bad.

I'll bet the 0.25 A is close to the trickle charge rate. "Trickle charging means charging a fully charged battery under no-load at a rate equal to its self-discharge rate, thus enabling the battery to remain at its fully charged level." So, I would think that your battery could be down as much as 16% capacity from new in the 440 days. Last evening I spent about 30 - 40 minutes in the garage with the car on setting my tire pressure to around 45 psi for our trip next week and monitoring the battery stuff. During that time SOC increased from about 32 % to IIRC around 45%. I did see a very low charge rate at the end but I can't recall whether it was down to 0.25 A. I'm thinking it was down to about 0.45 A at 45% SOC. So, I'll bet that my maximum SOC will show around 50% based on accumulating 1708 days of losses. The question is what effect are these bogus losses having on the life of my battery. I don't ever remember seeing 12.7 V on the front posts even pre the battery CSP when charging voltage was set IIRC about 14 V. I looked again and I can't find anything about relearning SOC after 8 hours in the service manual. Is there a BMS reset service procedure in the F150? Does the manual require a replacement battery to have the same capacity as the original battery like the C-Max so that the BMS works correctily? I'll bet the BMS is different since we have a DC/DC converter. The BMS (SOC) in the C-Max is also used for triggering load shedding. Perhaps this is why post battery CSP the time of APIM system shutting down is shorter.