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"Files can become corrupted for a variety of reasons including faulty storage media, errors in transmission, write errors during copying or moving, and software bugs." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Simple_file_verification

You should see our Blue Ox Patriot Supplemental Braking System Cycle 3 times during the setup process every time we tow the cmax. Check this YouTube from Blue Ox, it looks JUST the same on our C-Max. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4VlCE_H3HNY#t=20

Check this thread, post #144 by JohnnOhio. He's not so happy by pg. 12 post #221 pg.13 post #246, "Before update 70 on the freeway instant mpg gage would run at 40-45. Now 35-40. The tork is gone. Takes a 1/4 mile to get up to speed now and rpm's stay high. ( Like a Prius) Used to cruise at 70 with tach between 2nd and 3rd line Now runs above the 3rd line consistantly.( 3/4 OF THE GAGE) EV will engage only on any down hill runs but only a short time on the long level runs. (1 mile or less at 70)" PG # 16 post #341 "Took my Maxie in to fix the update. They said they used 2 computers and checked the update to be sure, and they could not find anything wrong. Driving off the lot I noticed right away that something was changed. I had power agian. My babies back :yahoo: " http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/2650-recall-13b07-the-guinea-pig-thread/page-8?hl=johnnohio Something obviously changed, software didn't install correctly??? Here's another example from a few days ago. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/4067-problems-while-coasting/

Apparently the dead 12V problem is one of those rare situations when multiple problems result in the exact same trouble. I've seen it in telecommunications a few times. cause #1 water in unused elec connectors = dead 12V. cause #2 bad batch of base se radios = dead 12v. cause #3 water in water pump electric connector (similar to #1) = dead 12v. All of these were fairly hard to find BUT WHEN 2 or more happen to the same car = almost impossible to find, because the trouble is never there when the tech is looking for it and it moves from one cause to another.

I thought it was just me. I've hit more stuff with the cmax than the last half dozen cars combined. Finally figured out what all that head room is for, I raised the seat a couple of inches and haven't hit anything since.

Do you have to use plasma? Most bulbs you're changing don't even require canbus error free, backup lights might. I'm using these in the license plate, they are a little too bright. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BMN8X0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What do you get from work to home (same route)?

Here's a good resource. http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=85 "Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer: AKEBONO 400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period. ATE 400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period. BREMBO Gran Turismo In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times. HAWK After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete. NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information. POWER SLOT Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles." This will kill your brake score BUT the longer it takes to break in your brakes is that much more opportunity to have an accident (if I could have just got stopped a couple of feet sooner...OH WELL!)

Greetings and welcome There is a lot of help available on this forum. #1 is Crystal our Official Ford rep http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/3310-official-ford-service-rep/?hl=ashley&do=findComment&comment=46121 You'll have to make 5 more posts on different threads (a forum restriction) before you can send her a private message (Send me a message) http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/user/1579-fordservice/ I have a couple of suggestions, find a new dealer, you can use ANY Ford dealer. Get your oil changed ANYWHERE but your dealership, you DO NOT have to have your oil changed by Ford! Good Luck

Tan not gray at all.

We took our cmax in for the recalls. Lucky us seat back needs to be replaced. Very unusual, 14S04 was installed successfully. As usual "Reconfigure Instrument Panel Cluster" 13C07 took HOURS, tech said he had NEVER spent that much time. I reminded him it took 2 days for the last update, he slapped his forehead and said "IS THIS THAT CAR? This car is NOT normal." Now with the new window sticker AND SOME EXTRA effort on my part I can at last equal the EPA estimate :nonono: . I'm already beating the EPA (2 tanks) by 1.5 mpg :lol2: on our new to us 2011 Volvo.

Depends on how fast she drives. Anything over 70MPH and the cmax will get in the low to mid 30's. We get :nonono: 33.7 @ 78 (using eco-cruse) on our 675 mile trips to/from Colorado. What does the Escape get @ 70+mph?

Everybody with a older cmax with AC problems check this thread. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/2435-ssm-32308-2012-2013-c-maxfocusfusionmkz-hybrid-plug-in-hybrid-battery-electric-vehicles-ac-compressor-noise-low-refrigerant-charge/ Low Freon will cause the system to freeze, turning the AC off for just a minute will let it thaw out and start making cold air again, till it refreezes.

Greeting and welcome Ford radios (in my opinion) are inferior, we had the THX upgrade in our 08 MKX, the Sony in our SEL is a little better, mediocre at best. I searched the forum for amplifier then subwoofer then radio. Didn't find much. Here's the thread ScubaDad mentioned. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/1570-has-anyone-installed-an-amplifier-in-their-c-max/?hl=radio Maybe HotPotato will have an update.

Like a lot of other "features" on this car I've had to retrain myself. We call it sneaking :flyaway: up on the cmax. When opening the hatch, don't stand to the side, it can see you and wont open. When closing the hatch don't push the button and walk to the side, sneak away by taking a step straight back.

XXX DO NOT GOOGLE squeek XXX

Ford has never been known for their fit and finish! Our 13 CMAX against our 08 MKX is like a BMW against a Fiat, the Lincoln was that bad!!! Ours seems to be a little better than yours, BUT I'M not going to brag about it.

Greetings and Welcome Did you push the Start/Stop button again before your got out for the 50 mile trip? Did the screens turn black except for a "Shift to Park" warning? Hopefully you just made one of the ABS sensors mad and the trouble light will clear after a few start/run/stop cycles. Do you have a OBDII scan tool? A lot of auto supply stores will read and clear your codes. Good Luck and let us know

The main reason we get 39 (41 with a lot of effort) in the FW part of DFW is ALL lights are RED!. We don't use any gas setting at the RED light but use a significant amount accelerating to the NEXT RED light.

I laid it on the drive while washing the car...OUCH :spend: when I finished I experienced one of the "perils of driving on the phone"

Here's a link to "Puddle Light upgraded to LED" where we've been changing some external and internal lamps to LED's. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/1898-puddle-light-upgraded-to-led/

Have you had 14C03 (Front Seat Back Frame Replacement)? Ask if you can talk to the tech doing the work.

I'm going to guess you have an SE with the 200a package and live where it rains a lot. :dance: Your battery died because it had been completely discharger 8 times :drop:, surprising that it lasted this long. Did you send Ashley your information? If your dealer is only updating the software and charging your battery then Ashley will explain to them that there are several electric connectors, the water pump and the radio that need to be looked at then repaired/replaced. Good luck and keep us updated.

Is your tow bar level? We need a drop receiver with more drop. We rotate the tires after each long trip, all 4 tires show more than normal inside wear. I had a 4 wheel alignment a few weeks ago, the back was worse than the front. The shop had pictures in their data base showing one side of the rear suspension adjustment already maxed out, just like ours. Check post # 44 by ptjones. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/1700-cmax-oem-tires-are-very-efficient/page-3?hl=alignment&

The intakes are located inside the hatch, just above the wheels. Be SURE to NOT block them when hauling. The fan will run often after shut down.