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FYI For Rear Brakes Motorcraft pads 46.62 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcraft-2-Wheel-Set-Brake-Pad-Sets-Rear-New-Ford-Focus-BRF-26E-/131783205259?fits=Model%3AC-Max&epid=140033627&hash=item1eaee4218b:g:768AAOSwf~9ZX~la&vxp=mtr Motorcraft rotors 49.02 x 2 - 98.04 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorcraft-BRRF248-Rear-Disc-Brake-Rotor-/291940372492?fits=Model%3AC-Max&epid=236908233&hash=item43f900900c:g:5a0AAOSwXYtYz~84&vxp=mtr Off brand rotors(2) and brake pads 54.74 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-OE-Disc-Brake-Rotors-Ceramic-Pads-C-Max-Escape-Transit-Connect-/302309922144?fits=Model%3AC-Max&hash=item4663135560:g:yjAAAOSw-K9ZEKHT&vxp=mtr Off brand rotors(2) 43.22 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-OE-Disc-Brake-Rotors-Ford-C-Max-Escape-Transit-Connect-/272742726270?fits=Model%3AC-Max&hash=item3f80bbba7e:g:4kMAAOSw3YJZVoUO&vxp=mtr I suspect it takes less that an hour for an experienced mechanic to do the rear brakes, maybe less than a half hour. By the way, if I were doing a rear brake job I would get the no-name rotors with name brand pads like https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-14D1095CH-Advantage-Ceramic-Hardware/dp/B004J6IIIM/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501265422&sr=8-3-fkmr2&keywords=rear+raybestos+brake+pads+c-max for 29.33 Though I access the likelihood of needing rear brakes is remote.

This helps me understand the value of driving with the windows open at first when the cabin is very hot. A huge volume of air relative to what the air conditioner puts out that is lower in temp than the cabin air and the cabin surfaces for the initial cool down. I remember in the older cars using the vents windows (in older cars) so that they divert air directly into the car to really get the air moving, ( often used to compensate for not having air conditioning.)

As I see it, the first few minutes of running the ICE is the least fuel efficient by far, so adding a substantial air conditioner load just makes it way worst. So waiting a few minutes might be worth the wait, though sometimes it might not be worth the wait.

Just a reminder, just in the off chance there happens to be someone who at some time might forget "Recirculate" makes a huge difference.

For other automotive stuff that comes up: Amazon ships to Europe pretty reasonably if you can keep your US account or have someone ship you something and the expedited speed is OK. https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=201117930 When searching for products, select the International Shipping filter option from the menu on the left side of the page to filter results. https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=596194 Expediated (6.99 + 2.99/lb) Priority (25.99 + 4.99/lb) I recently shipped a cell phone to France Fedex their fastest rate and it was around $100 so even the Priority seems reasonable compared to sending it myself.

A lot, maybe the vast majority, of C-Max users have little brake wear due to the braking done with regeneration rather than the brake pads.

I am still working on trying to understand and am making progress. Thanks for the help. This video helped me a lot.

So this is my attempt to understand how the C-Max works from reading threads from this forum and fusion forum and watching the youtube videos. It is my best attempt and it has been a struggle to get this far. And additional insights or correction welcomed. It seems like a lot of the posters have more of a understanding of transmissions that me. I am more interested in the strategy and why. The engine powers the drive train and/or an electrical generator/motor (MG1) MG1 is responsible for starting the ICE, generating electricity with power from the ICE which may go into the HVB or directly to MG2, and perhaps moving the car in reverse. Another electrical motor/generator (MG2) powers the drive train and is a generator of electricity when braking. So when driving MG1 when generating makes noise. I wonder why? When I first got the car it didn't but seemed to start after a software update. There must be some advantage for the ICE to generate electric and pass it to MG2 rather than just propel the wheels itself. I am not sure what the advantage is? Maybe it just keeps everything spinning a little slower and spreads out the work. This is one of hybridbear's post from the fusion forum. Ashley relays info from Ford engineers. “Additional technical info from Ashley: The primary purpose for the ICE is to the charge the battery. However, it is also possible under heavy load conditions to have the planetary set direct torque to the final drive of the transmission assembly from the ICE. So the ICE can provide extra power for acceleration by turning the generator or directly providing torque through the planetary set. Most of the time it will only turn the generator.” This may have something to do with why I get good mileage on the highway as long as regen happening. The ICE isn't directly doing much of the propulsion. But the ICE with the Atkinson cycle is good at gentle stuff like the generator and perhaps some helping out with the pulling. When things really get tough the ICE provides the torque but it gets mileage more like a conventional engine.

“I’m really proud of our little transmission. There’s no good reason that it should work at all under these conditions.” http://theotherpta.com/a-strange-lesson-about-the-durability-of-the-ford-cmax-transmission/

This is what I did. I googled to find out what Ford calls auto park https://www.google.com/search?q=ford+auto+park&oq=ford+auto+park&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.3436j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 and figured out it is call "active park assist" Then I went to cars.com and searched for used c-max with keyword exact phrase "active park assist" and came up with this which is 14 cars listed: https://www.cars.com/for-sale/searchresults.action/?kw=Active%20Park%20Assist&mdId=49085&mkId=20015&page=1&perPage=50&rd=99999&searchSource=GN_REFINEMENT&sort=price-lowest&stkTypId=28881&trId=24993&zc=60202 After selecting a car into another window of my browser I clicked on "view more" under "features" and under "seller's notes" to expose the active park assist. I noticed the first one is a 2013 for 12K dollars and also has the panoramic roof https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/705888285/overview/ Though I would stay away from the 2013 to avoid the transmission problem. (some people would avoid the 2014 or the 2015 also built before a certain date.) PS: I have an SE and am not very good at parking so I added a sensor that beeps onto the back license plate and it helped HUGE. Pretty cheap and medium easy to install. I wrote about the install somewhere on this forum.

Could you expand on how you came to this ? Or is this just likely. I actually am hoping this is true. That would mean I could have a choice to keep this car over 10 years, beings that I average less that 10K miles per year. One other theory that someone posted to explain why the transmissions don't seem to be failing as often was that simply some of the bearings were problematic and some were not.

https://img.washingtonpost.com/rf/image_1484w/2010-2019/WashingtonPost/2017/06/27/Editorial-Opinion/Images/AFP_PQ9ES-2157.jpg?uuid=yxpBWFtzEeefxsfvS8WNEw An auto worker assembles a Focus at Ford's Michigan Assembly Plant. (Mira Oberman/Agence France-Presse Getty Images)

I simply leave my lights setting on the last position. It turns them on and off automatically depending amount of day light and whether the key is turned on (or however the FOB works)

And light reflectiveness of the color of your car. You reminded me to start using my windshied reflector.

That noise that I think you mentioned - Very generally, lots of variations, my experience is that it goes away if three windows are opened, even if just a couple of inches. At lower speeds only two windows need to be opened. http://jalopnik.com/why-do-slightly-opened-car-windows-make-that-awful-soun-1447498738 https://www.reddit.com/r/askscience/comments/26vjj4/youre_driving_and_you_have_only_one_window_down/

So I finally got around to changing my filter. I was surprised that it didn't look very dirty, and slightly dirtier on one side, not sure if it was the side closest to the opening or closer to the driver. I was disappointed that some of the plastic along where the passenger's left foot would run was out of place and too much of a challenge to put back. Thought I would add a couple points. 1. I used/needed a pad to put my knees on. 2. This is not a finest job. For me, this is a pull it out - stuff it back in job. (if I removed the glove box, which would have been a lot more work, then it would be a more a finest job.) It was easier than I thought it would be. The cover was pretty easy to take off and put back. And yes, the positioning of me is a challenge for my body. I did watch the video a long time ago but decided not to review it with Plus 3's highlights. Thanks for everybody's ideas.

My personal favorite is a kick, though with the tire deflated that would be less effective.

I am curious what kind of driving has been done on the C-Max - high speed or stop and go urban ? Knowing this would add to the trying to understand why 2013 trans fail and who can expect them. 45,000 miles seems to be on the low side for the failure. Thanks.

Zoomit, I am not sure how much the 2013 is going for that you are interested, and it seems like you might not need this info but I'll just offer it. In my opinion, C-Max's have pretty bad resell value which could work really well for you, and their new value is really discounted. ( my 2013 SE in 2013 was discounted to 24K, before trade in and tax, Now you get a SEL for less. ) Here are cars on cars.com 2015 and above - you can get the build date from the dealer for the 2015s. To me they are pretty reasonably priced. Hybrids and Energi's SELs, many are off lease NOTE: These links require looking at an advertising and clicking through them (continue to cars.com) LINK: https://www.cars.com/for-sale/searchresults.action/?mdId=50243&mdId=49085&mkId=20015&page=1&perPage=50&rd=99999&searchSource=GN_REFINEMENT&sf1Dir=ASC&sf1Nm=price&stkTypId=28881&trId=24993&trId=30283&yrId=30031936&yrId=58487&yrId=56007&zc=60202 I would be very tempted to get an Energi SEL, 2015, 40K miles, $13000 https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/702439279/overview/ 2015 Hybrid SEL 39K miles, $13,900 https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/698954704/overview/ I would check to make sure they were non-smoking cars for that bothers me. New cars are also really discounted with new 2016 SELs starting under 20K on cars.com (and it is possible the prices will go down even lower when the C-Max's stop production) https://www.cars.com/for-sale/searchresults.action/?mdId=49085&mkId=20015&page=1&perPage=50&rd=99999&searchSource=SORT&sf1Dir=ASC&sf1Nm=price&stkTypId=28880&trId=24993&zc=60202 My present plan is to hold onto my C-Max until I can get a reasonably priced self-driving car after some maturing of the technology. That really appeals to me. Presently, it is nice having the hybrid verses the Energi to load things like a dishwasher into it, though perhaps the energi could fit the dishwasher.

OK, so you warm the oil up because you want the dirt to be suspend in the oil. That sounds like a good idea. If that is incorrect please clarify. By the way, I just bought 5w20 oil, Mobil 1, not EP.

Whoa. I kind of wanted to know where the 2014 cut off date was. Where did you to get the June 2014 date ? The problem was exposed in mid 2013 as I recall, but it seems Ford continued to use the bad transmissions into 2014. You ask very very good questions in my opinion, but I do not have a good answer, only suggestions that you probably already know, ask a dealer, message the Ford rep on this site, with the VIN. ( http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/3310-official-ford-service-rep/ ) The trans is pretty much the only real bad gotcha. The other would be "Microsoft" sound system on the 2013-2015s but that does not cost money and relative to the trans is minuscule to me but may not other people. By the way, as I recall most the the trans problems come after the 45000 mark so I would put the probability of you have the trans changed as very low. There is a message thread that goes into actually mileages of confirmed trans problems. [ Thanks for reminding me about my ticking time bomb. :-) ]

So you warm the engine before draining to make sure the maximum high fuel content used oil is drained ? I would think that the amount of fuel in the used oil is also related to how much the motor was used in cold temps and/or with short trips due to a fuel rich mixture needed until the motor is warmed up.

As of now the sale is over. Though I considerate it likely it will come back in the future.

I have had 4 dead battery events. The first one drained the battery and they did install a new one. After that I think they modified the software so if the battery gets to a certain low point lots of stuff is turned off. The next events seemed to me only to require the jumper battery to wake up the computer and the dashlights would go on and it would start right up. I haven't had an event since the last software update. But I did notice something that had the flavor of the problem. I opened up the car door and the dashlights did not go on. On inserting the key everything was fine but the battery did show a low state of charge. This suggests to me that the problem still may exist, like some rogue subsystem, but they have contained it from spreading. (or perhaps I will need a new battery soon.) Hair-pulling problems on this forum with the battery discharge are very very minimal these days since the last software update. I hope you have a service contract or the problem is still covered since it started when the car was still under warranty. zone2019, if you want the Ford rep from this site to get involved you need to contact her. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/3310-official-ford-service-rep/ You also may want to just write ford directly.

I just bought a Speedway $100 gift card for $92, so it's like improving my gas mileage by 8%, or getting about 20 cent discount per gallon. I do not have experience with this Ebay seller, however the seller has 99.5 % positive rating. ( I got the card in the mail in about a week.) This seller has $100 gift cards from many gas sellers from $92-94. Speedway, BP, ExxonMobil, ChevronTexico, 76, Phillips The ebay listings for the discounted cards come and go from what I can tell. There are also full price gift cards - so if you do not see the discounted ones it is because the price "war" might be off for the time being. This link might only display the discounted cards ( It searches on "gas gift card only" and it works now but it might not work later if they stop using "only" on the discounted card listing. ) https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=gas+card+only+svm&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xgas+card+only+.TRS0&_nkw=gas+card+only+&_sacat=0