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Most of those transmission messages are about the same problem. It might be worth contacting Ford. You are only off by 3000 miles. Maybe they can pay half. (My Dad got his Honda Accord trans replaced for 1500 after complaining. That year had problems but he was out of warranty by time.) It also might be worth contacting another dealer. And you might be right. It might not the be the trans needs to be replaced. Some people have eliminated noise by disconnecting the noise cancellation. Not sure about your case. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/6776-disable-active-noise-cancellation/ I assume you are not getting any error messages or codes.

What's your mileage ? I recall reading in one of the message threads that the transmission is considered a hybrid part so it has a longer warranty. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/3094-ssm-44252-hybrids-in-taxi-service-hf35-transmission-bearing-noise/?p=34996 There are a lot of other message threads on the 2013 transmissions. The transmissions on the 2013 have been problematic measured by posts on this forum, though recently not so much. If the dealer insists the warranty is not covered, I would challenge higher in Ford or another dealer.

If my tires are wearing evenly and not wearing out too quickly, I don't mess with the alignment. There is a message thread about C-Max needing the rear wheels to be aligned that may have been a design problem. The remedy can require added hardware to adjust the camber. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/5088-wheel-alignment-for-best-mpg Perhaps you can call your tire place to make sure they checked the camber on the rear wheels. Maybe your dealer didn't realize you just had the car aligned before trying to sell you an alignment. (Caution, I do have somewhat of a "guilty until proven innocent" bias judging the trustworthiness of dealers.)

Your case is the first I have heard of a cracked manifold on this forum. (see SnowStorm's post below.) I didn't realize that the coolant is warmed up in the exhaust manifold. If I were you I would ask for the old exhaust manifold to take a look at it. ( and maybe post a picture on this forum. I sure am curious about the design as well as the nature of the failure.)

Just to add a bit. When the gas internal combustion engine (ICE) is underutilized, the ICE will charge the high voltage battery (HVB) and that can have kind of a drone sound. It appears to me that Ford changed something that added that drone sound after one of the early software updates, perhaps increasing the rate of charge or changing something to have less wear. The state can be seen on the default display. As I recall, on the left there is white bar and possible blue in the bar and above the HVB gauge there is an up arrow indicating charging.

I tried to get a dealer to do it. Even went to a second dealer with the help of a Ford rep. It may not be possible on a 2013 SE. Apparently other Fords vechicles are able to do it in the menus. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/503-windows-rolled-themselves-today/page-3?do=findComment&comment=51006 I dried my car out with a cheap space heater and a pretty big window fan and some dry towels, though you may have it worse than me. A good hot day helps. I feel it is very important to really dry it good to avoid musty moldy ness. I fixed my key by putting adhesive felt pads around the unlock part of the key.

As I see it, that is not a feature, that is a problem, something that has gone wrong. I drive a 13 SE and it never has behaved that way.

I bought my extended warranty from these guys and saved some money. http://andersonandkoch-ford-warranty.com/ [on the site it says "When you buy a FORD EXTENDED WARRANTY online, you save hundreds of dollars over buying at a dealership!] (There is a message thread on extended warranties. That's where I heard about those guys) You may just want to get their pricing if you want to get it from your dealer and it gives you some kind of baseline. I personally liked getting it off the website. My dealer wanted me to come in and go into "the room" and I wanted something simple. They wouldn't do it over the phone. I haven't used it yet but it nice knowing for a few years I will not have any huge expenses. I figured one bad circuit board and it practically pays for itself. I think questioning the coolant flush and fuel injection something is indicated. No one that I know on this website has had to flush coolant, though some have had to add to it. As far as injectors, some people here add an injector cleaner to gas every once in a while but not something the dealer does. I vaguely recall one person having to replace shocks, so it is rare but on a 2015 - is that a warranty item ? One good thing about the extended warranty you can get an option for a free rental car though I don't know the specifics on when you get one.

You are approaching the distance to the moon. https://www.google.com/search?q=distance+to+the+moon&oq=distance+to+the+moon

Welcome Yarbie. I am going to expand on Plus 3 Golfer's response. When a car is first turned on, the gasoline engine alias internal combustion engine alias ICE, may or may not go on. If it is cold out it may turn on to warm up the engine so it will be more efficient. If the battery that propels the car, alias the High Voltage Battery, alias HVB, needs to be charged it will start to charge the battery with the side effect of warming up the engine so knocking out two targets with one stone. When I start out I often tap on the gas petal which start the gasoline engine to warm up the engine while in park and wait until the engine stops for I think that helps my efficiency. I am sorry about you having to pay $300 dollars for a 12V battery. My suspicion is that it was probably unnecessary and overly costly, assuming your car is still under warranty. On the plus side you don't have to worry about a new 12V battery for awhile.

Maybe that door leaks water. I haven't noticed anyone else with that problem and seem unusual to me. It may be covered by a warranty. Some reading indicates there is a rust-through warranty and a rust warranty, but not sure specifically for the C-Max. https://www.justanswer.com/ford/18so9-claiming-ford-rust-warranty.html

I am glad it worked out. Wizzurp's post really hits the nail on the head.

Maybe this article will help the discussion. My take is that this is what was needed to be done when the C-Max's were getting the battery discharge events. It may not all be necessary. This was seems of special interest. "Using Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) service tool, perform the battery monitoring system (BMS) reset after the new battery is connected. " https://ford.oemdtc.com/988/discharged-12-volt-battery-2013-2014-ford-c-max I would not be surprised if the dealers just know it is OK to just put the battery in and forget the other stuff. Otherwise installing a battery would cost way more.

It looks like you have done some nice work figuring out things. I use google to search this site, not this site's search. I found the following link with a google search "fordcmaxhybridforum active noise cancel" Maybe this will help http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/6669-how-to-quick-and-easy-reversible-anc-delete/ as far as " My Ford dealer says they have never heard of such a thing" this forum is a better source of information for some things.

So what I get out of this is that putting in a different type of battery could have not so good side effects. Thanks. The C-Max battery (BXT-67R) from what I saw on my battery still has 390 CCA. It is a battery designed to turn a starter or perhaps dual-purpose. I have a small lawn tractor battery that has 190/160 CCA. (32/0 degrees). If the C-Max never needs more than say 35 Amps a deep cycle battery might be a better choice with respect to longevity. Based on "A deep-cycle battery has the ability to be deeply discharged and charged many times during its service life. ... An automotive or starting battery is designed for brief bursts of high current and cannot withstand more than a few deep discharges before failure." ... "in most cases a deep-cycle battery is still more than adequate for the purpose of starting an engine." http://www.trojanbattery.com/Tech-Support/FAQ/BatterySelection.aspx Though it may not be worth risking side-effects to find out. (after letting the information sink in, and reading Plus2Golfer's Post #15, there is no way I am going to be playing around with installing deep cycle battery.)

I question whether we have the best battery in there. My Logic: We don't need Cold Cranking Amps CCA for the high voltage battery starts the car. I wonder if a 12 volt wheel chair battery would be better. To get a lot of CCA the plates need to be thinner which have a short life. Though Ford makes more money when the batteries go bad sooner.

My original battery died in 5-6 months from the 2013 dead battery mystery plague before Ford put in the low voltage cut off draining cludge. Ford replaced it. I carry a battery jumper thing so I am not so concerned about when it dies, though I don't think I will want to go beyond 6 years.

http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/3310-official-ford-service-rep/ Maybe the "official ford service rep" can help.

As I recall, when the dealer reprogrammed software under warranty the thing I sign that Ford pays for was a lot less that what you paid. I thought it was like 50 bucks to upgrade different things. It seems to me that the Ford rep's job is to hold the idea they are not paying and not admit to it being just wrong. You totally have my sympathy.

As I recall, at some point Ford took that screen away.

He-He

Thanks. What a time saver. I emailed the info to myself to double down on not losing it.

briskbrisk/adjective active, fast, and energetic My C-Max is plenty BRISK for me when I need it to be. I was in a rush today and was kind of weaving in and out of traffic. Loved the visibility, the tight steering, tight suspension, sitting position and 2.5 bars was brisky with 2.75 bars brisk. (granted it wasn't as fast is my 72 Olds Cutless but it sure handles better and gets less speeding tickets, knock on wood.) By the way, I have been a Consumer Reports subscriber for years and don't have a problem with their C-Max reviews. There are a lot of people that just want to drive the car and not think about how the car works to get good mileage.

From 5 mph to 0 mph.