2014-2017 C-Max Energi 3G to 4G modem update

[cr08]

Scheduled Charge Times seem to work now. FordPass recognized my home location and I was able to set it up as a Home profile and configure accordingly and it's reflected as such in Sync. Switched the default profile back to Charge Now and that worked at a public charger earlier while my Home profile set up for Value Charge (in Sync) is now waiting to start.

 

Small little glitch I did notice is I had set my charge times for 12am-8am weekdays and weekends. When I go back in to check, it has it split up with a 12am-7:55am and a 7:55-8am slot. Not a big deal since it will essentially do the same thing, but just thought it was yet another interesting FordPass glitch. ?

[oldbeyondmeasure]

On 4/8/2022 at 8:31 PM, cr08 said:

Scheduled Charge Times seem to work now. FordPass recognized my home location and I was able to set it up as a Home profile and configure accordingly and it's reflected as such in Sync. Switched the default profile back to Charge Now and that worked at a public charger earlier while my Home profile set up for Value Charge (in Sync) is now waiting to start.

 

Small little glitch I did notice is I had set my charge times for 12am-8am weekdays and weekends. When I go back in to check, it has it split up with a 12am-7:55am and a 7:55-8am slot. Not a big deal since it will essentially do the same thing, but just thought it was yet another interesting FordPass glitch. ?

I have the same behavior on the Android app, just a different split of the eight hour period:

[cr08]

Crossing fingers maybe we see something with the EV Driving data soon? It did originally have the wording about enabling the connected services in vehicle but now it just says there's no previous trip events to view. I did have a couple drives today but nothing recorded outside of the 'Journey' data.

 

Seems like Ford may be finally getting on top of things. Excited to see all these functions start populating again.

 

EDIT: And just as a reminder, this is on a 2013 that wasn't originally on the CSP, and DIY'd to boot. Really happy to see that it has basically been fully functioning to the extent that everyone else so far has had functionality show up, both in the 'supported' model years as well as the official dealer installed upgrades.

Edited April 9, 2022 by cr08

[JTEX]

On 4/8/2022 at 11:38 PM, cr08 said:

Crossing fingers maybe we see something with the EV Driving data soon? It did originally have the wording about enabling the connected services in vehicle but now it just says there's no previous trip events to view. I did have a couple drives today but nothing recorded outside of the 'Journey' data.

 

Seems like Ford may be finally getting on top of things. Excited to see all these functions start populating again.

 

EDIT: And just as a reminder, this is on a 2013 that wasn't originally on the CSP, and DIY'd to boot. Really happy to see that it has basically been fully functioning to the extent that everyone else so far has had functionality show up, both in the 'supported' model years as well as the official dealer installed upgrades.

What I just posted in the FFE forum may benefit the Cmax team regarding driving data:

 

I tried Journeys a few weeks back and while it was interesting the value judgements it was making on my driving style was too much to handle so since then I have always had Journeys off, but I do get lots of fun facts after each drive under Driving Data/My Journeys/EV Data/My EV Driving . . .so I have been churning through the “what may be different?” for you folks.

 

Each time I have reset SYNC for any reason once it comes back online I have a checklist of my prefs I set including: connect to my home wifi for SYNC updates, set Home and Work favorites, pair both cell phones, turn off CarPlay, turn off charge light, and then this is what you folks may want to check. . . .   under apps in SYNC I download the SYNC Fordpass app and once it becomes alive (sometimes it take a few minutes) in SYNC you are asked to give it permissions,  I give it all the permissions, then I give all permissions to “all apps” and the “app catalog”.  This is done all in SYNC.   Also on my iPhone I have given the iOS app Fordpass “always” location rights.  When driving my iPhone is also always connected to the car via USB and Bluetooth.

 

I bring up all of the above because perhaps while I have Journeys off giving both the related SYNC Fordpass app all the rights and the iOS Fordpass app location services rights/permissions in some way allows the required data to get to the Fordpass back end database to then be reported in the smartphone Fordpass app inside “Driving Data.”   So you folks may want to mess with that if you don’t have it set the same way.

 

For overall functionality of Fordpass now on my DIY FFE TCU swap I am “all good” for all functions.   Indeed I am now in better shape than with MFM and have the benefits of 4G speed. The key “must do’s” seem to be:

 

1) “H” TCU

2) “-UM” firmware, calibration, etc. for that H TCU using Forscan’s latest beta with a top quality USB OBE cable

3) Configuring ALL the lines of your TCU to be absolutely identical to the known good dealer installed configuration (in my case for the FFE).

4) being in a reasonably good AT&T cell reception area

5) using the connected car app to enable the car

6) doing at least one SYNC reset

7) giving it a few days for the FordPass back end to update

 . . . .and having the lastest rev of the Fordpass app on your smart phone

 

Perhaps to the above list the “permissions” on Fordpass in SYNC, etc. also matter, but we will need one or two other team members to validate.

[GeR2]

Well, I received the new OBD2 scanner in the mail today.  I gave it a whirl as per the tutorial that Bookemdano was kind enough to provide.  Unfortunately, the TCU did not show up in the list.  The scanner came with some instructions.  I downloaded the driver and installed it.  It said the installation was successful.  The instructions says to use the "RTS relay" option for the ELM327 specific under the Connection tab.  After connecting to my car, it correctly identified the make / model.  It went through the connection procedure.  There was a message in the Log tab that says "The adapter is NOT recommended for this car - some FORScan functions may not be available or not properly work".  I allowed it to continue to completion and viewed the modules list under the CPU menu option.  The TCU was not in the list.  That's as far as I went.  I closed the connection in the software and then the scanner from the laptop and car.

 

Here are the screen captures that I took:

 

Notice that it says "the adapter is not recommended for this car", where I highlighted in yellow.

 

This shows the list of modules detected:

 

I'm guessing this OBD2 adapter is at fault.  Should I buy try again and buy this OBD2 scanner?

https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-EX-FORScan-OBD-Adapter/dp/B081VQVD3F/

 

Otherwise, any comments and observations are appreciated.

 

[bookemdano]

On 4/9/2022 at 3:14 PM, GeR2 said:

Well, I received the new OBD2 scanner in the mail today.  I gave it a whirl as per the tutorial that Bookemdano was kind enough to provide.  Unfortunately, the TCU did not show up in the list.  The scanner came with some instructions.  I downloaded the driver and installed it.  It said the installation was successful.  The instructions says to use the "RTS relay" option for the ELM327 specific under the Connection tab.  After connecting to my car, it correctly identified the make / model.  It went through the connection procedure.  There was a message in the Log tab that says "The adapter is NOT recommended for this car - some FORScan functions may not be available or not properly work".  I allowed it to continue to completion and viewed the modules list under the CPU menu option.  The TCU was not in the list.  That's as far as I went.  I closed the connection in the software and then the scanner from the laptop and car.

 

Here are the screen captures that I took:

 

Notice that it says "the adapter is not recommended for this car", where I highlighted in yellow.

 

This shows the list of modules detected:

 

I'm guessing this OBD2 adapter is at fault.  Should I buy try again and buy this OBD2 scanner?

https://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-EX-FORScan-OBD-Adapter/dp/B081VQVD3F/

 

Otherwise, any comments and observations are appreciated.

 

 

Looks like it's still not connecting to the MS-CAN bus. Can you post a screenshot of the Connection settings (Car icon > Configuration)?

 

Edit: Also, if you didn't already, try installing these drivers http://sw.forscan.net/down/CH341SER.EXE

Edited April 9, 2022 by bookemdano

[GeR2]

On 4/9/2022 at 1:33 PM, bookemdano said:

 

Looks like it's still not connecting to the MS-CAN bus. Can you post a screenshot of the Connection settings (Car icon > Configuration)?

 

Edit: Also, if you didn't already, try installing these drivers http://sw.forscan.net/down/CH341SER.EXE

 

 

That was the driver that I installed.

 

As for the connection settings, this is what shows up with I select: Car > Configuration.  It does show a "Can Error".  There's 2 or 3 pages below this one.  I have screen captures for all of them.

 

 

Edit: A notable observation I made was the Settings > General menu shows "Debug Mode" selected.

Edited April 9, 2022 by GeR2
Additional Info

[bookemdano]

On 4/9/2022 at 4:52 PM, GeR2 said:

 

 

That was the driver that I installed.

 

As for the connection settings, this is what shows up with I select: Car > Configuration.  It does show a "Can Error".  There's 2 or 3 pages below this one.  I have screen captures for all of them.

 

 

Edit: A notable observation I made was the Settings > General menu shows "Debug Mode" selected.

 

OK can you now post a screenshot of the Gear icon > Connection tab?

 

The debug mode checkbox is normal.

 

Edit: Also sort of odd to me that it's not detecting your OBDII module (but is seeing the SOBDM). Maybe that's normal though with these generic ELM327 adapters. Which OBD2 port do you have it plugged into? Have you tried the other one? One is behind the plastic drop-down door under the headlight dial and the other one is sort of hidden up above the brake pedal.

Edited April 9, 2022 by bookemdano

[GeR2]

This is what shows up under the Gear -> Connection tab:

 

[bookemdano]

On 4/9/2022 at 5:32 PM, GeR2 said:

This is what shows up under the Gear -> Connection tab:

 

 

OK that looks right. 

 

Just curious, when you connected with this USB adapter, did it ask you if you wanted to load a saved profile? If so and you did that, then that is likely the problem. When you load a saved profile it doesn't re-scan for new modules (meaning it used the list generated when you used your bluetooth OBD2 adapter).

 

If you didn't load a saved profile then disregard the above. I would definitely try your other OBD2 port and reboot the laptop for good measure. See if you get any different result.

[GeR2]

On 4/9/2022 at 3:44 PM, bookemdano said:

 

OK that looks right. 

 

Just curious, when you connected with this USB adapter, did it ask you if you wanted to load a saved profile? If so and you did that, then that is likely the problem. When you load a saved profile it doesn't re-scan for new modules (meaning it used the list generated when you used your bluetooth OBD2 adapter).

 

If you didn't load a saved profile then disregard the above. I would definitely try your other OBD2 port and reboot the laptop for good measure. See if you get any different result.

 

Well done.  That was the issue, I selected Yes to load a saved profile.  This time around Forscan was able to load all the modules.  The TCU module showed up in the list.  After selecting the module, I clicked on the play button at the bottom of the Computer Chip -> Configuration and Programming tab.  It took me to the log page indicating "Sorry, you need an Extended License to run this function".  I installed Forscan on two PC's.  I think this was the second.  I used the same key for both.  I guess that's the problem.  Shall I try the same procedure on the first PC?

 

Edit:

I tried it on the first laptop.  The About screen shows that it has an "Extended license".  I followed the steps that came with the OBD2 scanner, including downloading and installing the driver.  The driver was successfully installed.  However, the OBD2 scanner isn't showing up in the list under Setting > Connection.  It picked up some Bluetooth devices.  So, two steps forward, one step back.  

Edited April 10, 2022 by GeR2
Additional Info

[bookemdano]

On 4/9/2022 at 6:29 PM, GeR2 said:

 

Well done.  That was the issue, I selected Yes to load a saved profile.  This time around Forscan was able to load all the modules.  The TCU module showed up in the list.  After selecting the module, I clicked on the play button at the bottom of the Computer Chip -> Configuration and Programming tab.  It took me to the log page indicating "Sorry, you need an Extended License to run this function".  I installed Forscan on two PC's.  I think this was the second.  I used the same key for both.  I guess that's the problem.  Shall I try the same procedure on the first PC?

 

Edit:

I tried it on the first laptop.  The About screen shows that it has an "Extended license".  I followed the steps that came with the OBD2 scanner, including downloading and installing the driver.  The driver was successfully installed.  However, the OBD2 scanner isn't showing up in the list under Setting > Connection.  It picked up some Bluetooth devices.  So, two steps forward, one step back.  

 

Yes the hardware ID that the license is based on is unique per computer. Since you have the adapter working on the second laptop, might be easier to just request a a license for it (same procedure you followed in my post from the other day).

 

Edit: Might/probably need to use a different email address than you used for the first one. If you have a gmail address you can try using the + trick to create an alias that will ultimately still go to your same inbox (so like if your normal email is GeR2@gmail.com, try using GeR2+1@gmail.com to request the license for your other computer). Of course many of us already have multiple email addresses, so whatever is easier.

Edited April 10, 2022 by bookemdano

[GeR2]

I have an alternate email address I can use.  I'll give it a try.

 

Thanks so much for your assistance.  My day is almost done, but I'll keep posting my progress here.

 

Edit:

 

The results are in. (finally) ?

 

bookendano, I followed the instructions you provided. They went just as you described.  For good measure and your advice, I backed up the all of the TCU data first.  

 

I was able to view the "TCU Module configuration (AS BUILT format)".  There are a sequence of string values starting with 754-01-01 and ends with 754-05-02.  So there are 12 altogether.  Before I post it, what am I supposed to be looking for and what, if any, are considered "sensitive" data?

 

Edited April 10, 2022 by GeR2

[bookemdano]

On 4/9/2022 at 7:30 PM, GeR2 said:

I have an alternate email address I can use.  I'll give it a try.

 

Thanks so much for your assistance.  My day is almost done, but I'll keep posting my progress here.

 

Edit:

 

The results are in. (finally) ?

 

bookendano, I followed the instructions you provided. They went just as you described.  For good measure and your advice, I backed up the all of the TCU data first.  

 

I was able to view the "TCU Modeule configuration (AS BUILT format)".  There are a sequence of string values starting with 754-01-01 and ends with 754-05-02.  So there are 12 altogether.  Before I post it, what am I supposed to be looking for and what, if any, are considered "sensitive" data?

 

 

There is no personally-identifiable information in any of the 754-xx-xx lines. In fact, they are supposed to be 100% identical for all 4G modems installed in a C-Max.

 

For remote functions to work, your 754-01-01 line must be B842 (the two other digits in the box after that don't really matter--they're just a checksum).

 

If you prefer, you can compare all your lines with the ones posted by @oldbeyondmeasure several pages back (I'm attaching his screenshot). If yours matches this then the module configuration is not your problem. 

 

Also, go back to the car icon -> Configuration and look at the Strategy for the TCU. Is it HJ5T-14G087-UM?

 

 

[GeR2]

On 4/9/2022 at 7:07 PM, bookemdano said:

 

There is no personally-identifiable information in any of the 754-xx-xx lines. In fact, they are supposed to be 100% identical for all 4G modems installed in a C-Max.

 

For remote functions to work, your 754-01-01 line must be B842 (the two other digits in the box after that don't really matter--they're just a checksum).

 

If you prefer, you can compare all your lines with the ones posted by @oldbeyondmeasure several pages back (I'm attaching his screenshot). If yours matches this then the module configuration is not your problem. 

 

Also, go back to the car icon -> Configuration and look at the Strategy for the TCU. Is it HJ5T-14G087-UM?

 

 

 

 

The plot thickens.. This is what shows up on my end:

 

 

This is the Strategy for the TCU.  Interesting that everything but the Strategy is HJ5T-14G087-UM.  What do you make of all this?

 

 

 

[bookemdano]

Yeah, B882 in 754-01-01 is what the 3G modems in the C-Max were set to, but that does not work with the 4G modems, which need to be set to B842 to work properly in a C-Max. It has to do with the electrical architecture of the car, sort of like the language it speaks. In this case, when you use FordPass to tell the car to lock the doors, the modem is relaying that command to the car, but in a language the car doesn't understand, which is why it doesn't work.

 

At this point you have two options:

 

1. Since even Ford agreed you need to have the module reprogrammed (and since they owe you a functioning modem) you could bring it to the ford dealer and tell them they need to reprogram the modem. That should get all the correct programming input into the module, at which point the remote functions of FordPass would work immediately.

 

2. If you feel slightly daring and don't want to waste more of your time at the dealership, you can make the change yourself. It's really pretty simple, and as long as you're diligent and careful in doing it the risk to your car is extremely low. If you want to go ahead and do it, then follow my previous instructions to get to the as-built screen (same thing you just sent a screenshot of).

 

Edit the two boxes on the 754-01-01 line only (the other 754 lines already match so leave them as-is). In the first box, change the 82 to 42 so it says B842

 

In the second box, change the 9 to a 5 so it reads 57

 

Then click the "Write" button on the 754-01-01 line. It might pop up a "are you sure you want to do this"-type message (can't remember). After it writes the change it will prompt you to turn the car off and back on. After you do that, click the Stop button at the bottom of the screen and then click the car icon and then the disconnect button. At this point you're done with Forscan.

 

Go ahead and open your FordPass app and try the remote functions. If they work, great. If not, then go into the car's Sync screen and go to Settings -> General -> Master Reset. This will clear out the old authorization in FordPass, so you'll need to re-authorize it (it also clears a bunch of other stuff including your phone's bluetooth pairing). But after that the remote functions should work. If they don't, then go back into Forscan and read the TCU's as-built again (as in my previous instructions). Double check that the 754-01-01 line reads B842.

 

Good luck.

 

Edit: The strategy line is exactly what it should be. I mis-remembered the number in my previous message... 14G087 is the part number and the strategy is 14G139. So you're all good on the module itself. It just needs that one programming change.

Edited April 10, 2022 by bookemdano

[GeR2]

Thanks for the input.  I'm tempted to try and fix it myself. What are the repercussions and can I go back to the old settings if need be?  How much time does it take for the modem to start responding to the remote functions?

[bookemdano]

On 4/10/2022 at 9:30 AM, GeR2 said:

Thanks for the input.  I'm tempted to try and fix it myself. What are the repercussions and can I go back to the old settings if need be?  How much time does it take for the modem to start responding to the remote functions?

 

Here's one way to think about it--even if you screw up and type in the wrong values, literally the only module in the car that would be affected is the modem. So the worst thing that can happen is your modem doesn't work. You're not touching any other system of the car. So if you're worried that it might die entirely or steer you into a ditch when driving, don't be.

 

And even in this worst-case scenario where you mistype and end up writing incorrect data to the modem, you can very easily re-load the backup you saved by clicking the "Load All" button at the bottom of the window and locating the backup file you saved.

 

The risk is quite low. But having the dealer reprogram it for you is a perfectly understandable choice also. At least you know what the problem is now!

 

As for how long it takes the modem to respond to a remote command, it depends on several things, including the AT&T LTE signal level in the car's location and internet congestion in general. But I've found that when issuing a lock/unlock/start command from the app that the car responds within 10 seconds give or take. It's actually quite a bit faster than MFM in that regard.

 

Or maybe you meant how long does it take for the remote commands to begin working after you fix your as-built. Not really sure since I programmed my modem with the correct result from the get-go (I had the benefit of following in the footsteps of @David_Tucker4 and @cr08 who experimented and ultimately determined the correct value). It will either work right away after reprogramming the TCU or it may need a Sync master reset and re-authorization as I pointed out in my previous message.

Edited April 10, 2022 by bookemdano

[GeR2]

On 4/10/2022 at 10:35 AM, bookemdano said:

 

Here's one way to think about it--even if you screw up and type in the wrong values, literally the only module in the car that would be affected is the modem. So the worst thing that can happen is your modem doesn't work. You're not touching any other system of the car. So if you're worried that it might die entirely or steer you into a ditch when driving, don't be.

 

And even in this worst-case scenario where you mistype and end up writing incorrect data to the modem, you can very easily re-load the backup you saved by clicking the "Load All" button at the bottom of the window and locating the backup file you saved.

 

The risk is quite low. But having the dealer reprogram it for you is a perfectly understandable choice also. At least you know what the problem is now!

 

As for how long it takes the modem to respond to a remote command, it depends on several things, including the AT&T LTE signal level in the car's location and internet congestion in general. But I've found that when issuing a lock/unlock/start command from the app that the car responds within 10 seconds give or take. It's actually quite a bit faster than MFM in that regard.

 

Or maybe you meant how long does it take for the remote commands to begin working after you fix your as-built. Not really sure since I programmed my modem with the correct result from the get-go (I had the benefit of following in the footsteps of @David_Tucker4 and @cr08 who experimented and ultimately determined the correct value). It will either work right away after reprogramming the TCU or it may need a Sync master reset and re-authorization as I pointed out in my previous message.

 

About the strings that need to be updated, is there a reliable source with documentation showing the changes you are recommending?  If I decide to bring my car to the dealer that performed the upgrade, what should I tell them?

[bookemdano]

On 4/10/2022 at 2:13 PM, GeR2 said:

 

About the strings that need to be updated, is there a reliable source with documentation showing the changes you are recommending?  If I decide to bring my car to the dealer that performed the upgrade, what should I tell them?

 

What would you consider a reliable source? If you mean a link to something at ford.com I'm afraid there's nothing like that. Ford does not intend for end users to be messing with this stuff, so there is no "official" documentation or instructions on how to edit a module's configuration. All of the knowledge we have has come from people who work/used to work for Ford and hacker savants who have been able to reverse engineer Ford's programming. Unofficial documentation about this exists, (for instance the AS-BUILT database at cyanlabs.net) but it's not in a form laypeople would be able to make much sense of.

 

The most reliable source you're gonna get is @oldbeyondmeasure's post from a few weeks ago where he helpfully posted his modem's as-built, which was programmed correctly for him by his Ford dealer (he had the official 21B09 swap done). That screenshot I posted came directly from him. You can see that your as-built matches his exactly except for line 754-01-01. His remote functions work, yours don't. That first line is why.

 

I understand not trusting random people on the internet, but honestly I'm not sure what else I can say. The change I told you to make simply fixes your modem programming so that it matches everyone else here who has had a 4G modem put in their C-Max (whether they did it themselves or had a dealership do it).

 

And if you take it back to the dealer, they will in effect be doing the same thing. They have a different method of doing it (they're not using Forscan), but after you get it back from them and read your modem's configuration with Forscan, you're going to see B842 in that first line, because that's the correct value.

 

Honestly, at this point that's probably what you should do. I think you're just too risk-averse to do this yourself, and I can probably never satisfy your concerns that your car will get screwed up. You paid Ford a pretty penny for this upgrade--they owe it to you to fix it. Call them up and say "you installed this modem for me and it works except for the remote start/lock/unlock. I spoke with FordPass support and they said the modem you put in needs to be reprogrammed. Please set up an appointment to do that"

 

Let us know how it goes.

[GeR2]

On 4/10/2022 at 1:52 PM, bookemdano said:

 

What would you consider a reliable source? If you mean a link to something at ford.com I'm afraid there's nothing like that. Ford does not intend for end users to be messing with this stuff, so there is no "official" documentation or instructions on how to edit a module's configuration. All of the knowledge we have has come from people who work/used to work for Ford and hacker savants who have been able to reverse engineer Ford's programming. Unofficial documentation about this exists, (for instance the AS-BUILT database at cyanlabs.net) but it's not in a form laypeople would be able to make much sense of.

 

The most reliable source you're gonna get is @oldbeyondmeasure's post from a few weeks ago where he helpfully posted his modem's as-built, which was programmed correctly for him by his Ford dealer (he had the official 21B09 swap done). That screenshot I posted came directly from him. You can see that your as-built matches his exactly except for line 754-01-01. His remote functions work, yours don't. That first line is why.

 

I understand not trusting random people on the internet, but honestly I'm not sure what else I can say. The change I told you to make simply fixes your modem programming so that it matches everyone else here who has had a 4G modem put in their C-Max (whether they did it themselves or had a dealership do it).

 

And if you take it back to the dealer, they will in effect be doing the same thing. They have a different method of doing it (they're not using Forscan), but after you get it back from them and read your modem's configuration with Forscan, you're going to see B842 in that first line, because that's the correct value.

 

Honestly, at this point that's probably what you should do. I think you're just too risk-averse to do this yourself, and I can probably never satisfy your concerns that your car will get screwed up. You paid Ford a pretty penny for this upgrade--they owe it to you to fix it. Call them up and say "you installed this modem for me and it works except for the remote start/lock/unlock. I spoke with FordPass support and they said the modem you put in needs to be reprogrammed. Please set up an appointment to do that"

 

Let us know how it goes.

 

I think you got it in a nutshell.

 

(jokingly) I feel like a kid at a closed candy shop .  There's a gumball machine that has 99 of my favorite flavor and 1 that isn't.  Should I gamble my quarter or wait till the shop opens and ask for what I want. 

 

I'm going to call my dealer tomorrow and request to have the modem re-programmed as you phrased it.  It's the sensible thing to do, in my opinion.  I'll let you know what they say.

[bookemdano]

On 4/10/2022 at 4:36 PM, GeR2 said:

 

I think you got it in a nutshell.

 

(jokingly) I feel like a kid at a closed candy shop .  There's a gumball machine that has 99 of my favorite flavor and 1 that isn't.  Should I gamble my quarter or wait till the shop opens and ask for what I want. 

 

I'm going to call my dealer tomorrow and request to have the modem re-programmed as you phrased it.  It's the sensible thing to do, in my opinion.  I'll let you know what they say.

 

Continuing your analogy--you prepaid the candy shop for a Twix but they only gave you half of it. The candy man owes you the rest of your Twix.

 

This DIY/Forscan route is great for those of us who have decided to accept some risk in exchange for not having to pay $300+ to a dealership. In your case, you paid the money to Ford. Make 'em earn it!

[GeR2]

Update:

 

I called my local Ford Dealer today and explained to them the problem I am having with the new 4G modem.  They are going to reprogram it.  I have an appointment set on Wednesday the 13th.  On a side note, I was told that the modem includes a 2 year warranty, so no cost to me for the servicing that will be done.  I was under the impression that it included a 1 year warranty...

 

Will keep you guys posted when I get back on Wednesday.

[JDBlue]

On 4/9/2022 at 5:25 AM, JTEX said:

What I just posted in the FFE forum may benefit the Cmax team regarding driving data:

 

I tried Journeys a few weeks back and while it was interesting the value judgements it was making on my driving style was too much to handle so since then I have always had Journeys off, but I do get lots of fun facts after each drive under Driving Data/My Journeys/EV Data/My EV Driving . . .so I have been churning through the “what may be different?” for you folks.

 

Each time I have reset SYNC for any reason once it comes back online I have a checklist of my prefs I set including: connect to my home wifi for SYNC updates, set Home and Work favorites, pair both cell phones, turn off CarPlay, turn off charge light, and then this is what you folks may want to check. . . .   under apps in SYNC I download the SYNC Fordpass app and once it becomes alive (sometimes it take a few minutes) in SYNC you are asked to give it permissions,  I give it all the permissions, then I give all permissions to “all apps” and the “app catalog”.  This is done all in SYNC.   Also on my iPhone I have given the iOS app Fordpass “always” location rights.  When driving my iPhone is also always connected to the car via USB and Bluetooth.

 

I bring up all of the above because perhaps while I have Journeys off giving both the related SYNC Fordpass app all the rights and the iOS Fordpass app location services rights/permissions in some way allows the required data to get to the Fordpass back end database to then be reported in the smartphone Fordpass app inside “Driving Data.”   So you folks may want to mess with that if you don’t have it set the same way.

 

For overall functionality of Fordpass now on my DIY FFE TCU swap I am “all good” for all functions.   Indeed I am now in better shape than with MFM and have the benefits of 4G speed. The key “must do’s” seem to be:

 

1) “H” TCU

2) “-UM” firmware, calibration, etc. for that H TCU using Forscan’s latest beta with a top quality USB OBE cable

3) Configuring ALL the lines of your TCU to be absolutely identical to the known good dealer installed configuration (in my case for the FFE).

4) being in a reasonably good AT&T cell reception area

5) using the connected car app to enable the car

6) doing at least one SYNC reset

7) giving it a few days for the FordPass back end to update

 . . . .and having the lastest rev of the Fordpass app on your smart phone

 

Perhaps to the above list the “permissions” on Fordpass in SYNC, etc. also matter, but we will need one or two other team members to validate.

 

So just to follow up. I had installed an H modem from flvpmods and the official ford f150 antenna, but nothing worked.

 

I updated my AsBuilt with the screenshot that @bookemdano posted, and the car finally started to lock/unlock!!

 

I followed these steps, 1-5, and the part that was the KEY to this, was the part at the top about enabling fordpass on the Sync 3 itself. Once I did that, I ran a vechicle health check on the Sync console,and all the data started flowing immediately

 

I am up and running, and it is beautiful! All functions seem to be working on Android. THANK YOU ALL!!

[JDBlue]

On 4/2/2022 at 9:11 PM, bookemdano said:

 

It would be great to get a spreadsheet of *working* asbuilt tweaks for the C-max. There are some very comprehensive ones out there for other Ford models but a lot of the tweaks won't work for our cars.

 

 

Any chance you can get this started somewhere and folks can contribute to it? After following all the info here to upgrade to Sync 3, and replace my TCU, I am hooked on these tweaks ?