plus 3 golfer

LOL, my would have been replaced at 10k miles and maybe 15k sooner. :)

I like my General AltiMax RT43s (look at TireRack for ratings / review). One will lose some FE over the Energy Savers (maybe 2-3% or about 1 mpg at 40 mpg) but gain better handling especially in wet conditions. Two years ago I paid $475 out the door (including tax and free rotation for life). I also added a specially priced $39 alignment with tire purchase which brought the total cost to about $520. I saved about $300 at that time over ES (including Michelin $70 promotion). 27k miles on now with tread wear virtually flat across tires (no cupping, feathering, and noise as I experienced with the Energy Savers and Ecopia Plus) with around 6/32" tread remaining on all 4 tires. I run around 47-50 psi. Checked this morning via ForScan and all tires are between 48.7 and 48.9 psi @ 74F. Since tires wear slower as tread depth decreases, I'd expect 65 k+ if I ran them down to the wear bars (which I never do).

I believe there a metal bolted shield over the front part of the CC so it would probably add 30 seconds to the time to remove compared to the Prius. Watch the Youtube video. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KGctBq4bwOQ

Yes, use the tender as you likely have a parasitic drain. I believe it was on the TDI or Passat forum, that a bad door switch when then car was off caused a module to remain active. In my examples, I used 50 mA as sleep draw which is the what Ford says is maximum sleep draw. It should be less than that. On your Energi, the 12V Battery is charged when the HVB is plugged in and charging. Heat kills batteries. My first lasted 30 months in the Phoenix heat. I’ve got about 2 1/2 years of Phoenix heat and 2 years of east TN heat on the 2nd one. https://blog-cdn.rvshare.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/Life-map-of-batteries.jpg

I’ve never had a dead battery either in nearly 7 years and for 2 years on most days we drove less than 15 minutes round trip and my SOC was generally single digits except on longer drives. Car always started. But 2 startups a day and running 7 minutes will add around 2% to the SOC (see graph) which is less than a normal overnight draw. Also, the battery saver algorithm will shut down radio quicker if on for low SOC - mine was well under one minute at single digit SOC.

If you drive it 35 / 45 miles only once a week or so, yes the SOC could gradually decrease. It really is more time related than miles related. Again, once the SOC is very low, the algorithm will charge a little faster. Also, it depends on the sleep load draw. When one opens a door and “disturbs” the sleep mode, draw will substantially increase for some time (I believe SS put a recorder on his battery to look at draw when car is off. Do the time test on the radio. AGM simply costs more and likely last longer. But that’s do to construction. I don’t believe battery fade is any different between AGM and flooded. For the charging algorithm to work correctly, the AGM capacity should be around 43 + Ah. Putting a larger capacity battery in (say 60 Ah) will likely result in it being continually undercharged. Yes, I would just put your external charger on once a month or so on the OEM battery. You can also, after the car has been off for several hours, measure the battery voltage with a meter with the car off. If you get around 12.0 volts or lower, I’d put the charger on as your SOC is likely around 20% or less. See link below: your SOC is likely just under the C/100 curve and above the C/20 curve. https://i.stack.imgur.com/EheHZ.png [/url]

No, because there is always load to serve including "trickle" charging the 12 V battery when the car is on (ready to drive). When the car is off, the converter shuts down and the 12 V battery supplies the load still connected including powering active modules.

The 12 V battery has a SOC of 44% not a full charge. Look at the graph. The SOC of the HVB is not material to the charging algorithm. On a recent 2 1/2 hour trip, 12 V battery SOC went from IIRC 43% to about 58%. The point is you don't want your battery sitting at a very low SOC because driving occasionally will not charge the battery very much if at all to negate normal daily battery drain for any longer period of time. So any parasitic drain (including radio issue) could easily drain battery in hours. And, the DC/DC converter does not charge the 12 V battery very quickly - it is not a quick charger. The C-Max battery is sealed and one cannot readily added water. Thus, fast charging is a not recommended. Charging current must be limited so that water isn't "boiled" away. I believe it is around a C/3 limit generally. So, if our battery is rated 43 Ah when new, the charging current should be no more than about 14 A initially. That's about as high as I've seen and for a very brief period of time (a few minutes or so) when the battery was newer. As the battery ages, resistance of the cells increases and Ah capacity declines, so the C/3 rate drops. Otherwise, if one "forces" 14 A through an old battery by increasing voltage, it will get too hot. So, the algorithm instead of a desired starting charging voltage of 14.8 (highest I've seen), the charging voltage may be lowered to 14.5 /14.4 V to limit charging current and battery temperature. Here's some data from one of my trips. It took 3 days of driving 1916 miles in 28 hours and 16 minutes to reach 92% from a starting SOC of 3%. For the first 4 hours of operations, current averaged around 0.75 A and SOC went from 3% to about 50%. During the next 8 hours, current averaged about 0.5 A and SOC went up to 80%. During the last 16 hours , current averaged about 0.19 A and state of charge ended at 92 %. From about 88% SOC, current was running about 0.12 A with 0.06 showing up sometimes. There was no abrupt change in current just a slow drop - slower charge rate as SOC increased.

Dealer replacement not required. I used Safelite twice.

If he drives it only occasionally between Denton, Dallas, Fort Worth, he won't put much charge in the battery. For example, below is a graph of 50 minutes of driving my C-Max and recording charging current, voltage, and SOC. Here's my more detailed post on the Energi forum. About 1.45 Ah of charge was added to the battery. Because the charging current is only about 0.88 after 50 minutes and will continue to drop, very little Ah will be added after 49 minutes. From previous recordings, my guess is that after another one hour of driving, one might see another 0.8 Ah added. If the car has a 50 mA sleep current draw, for every day the car is not driven, the battery will lose 1.2 Ah of charge + normal self-discharge. So, one can see that it's likely that over several months of limited driving, the battery could lose most of it's charge. Normal self discharge according to Battery University is 5% per month. But at 80 F another source says 4% per week. One other point, the C-Max battery capacity is about 43 Ah when new. The fact that it's 21 months old means it's lost some capacity and cannot be charged to 43 Ah. So, this lost capacity coupled with the above will yield a "dead" battery sooner as the battery ages.

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How old is your 12 V battery? Time how long it takes for the radio to shut down: after starting car, turn radio on, shut car off and time until radio shuts down but do not open doors during this period. What is your 12 V battery voltage with car off under hood in the evening a few hours after shutdown and early in the am before you start the car? An AGM battery unless it has significantly more Ah of capacity likely won't help. You don't need a deep cycle battery nor a high current discharge battery for the C-Max. AGMs are good for cycling applications like ICE cars that shut ICE off, then restart ICE. There have been some that have put in an AGM (Optima IIRC) and had to modify the battery tray / compartment. You should not have to put a battery tender on as I believe you indicated in other posts unless 1) you have a parasitic load draining battery when car is off, 2) you don't operate car long enough to charge battery (always at a low SOC), 3) the Battery Management System was not reset after battery replacements (BMS will believe battery has lost significant capacity), or 4) combination of preceding.

Warranties are transferable but you’ll have to look up roadside assistance.

I owned a 2009 Jetta TDI and sold before Diesel gate when I bought my 2013 C-Max primarily because of the TDI fuel high pressure pump issue and needing more cargo space. I had my original HPFP replaced under the 5/60 powertrain warranty at 44k miles. But there were many and more now (including 2013s) that are out of the 5/60 powertrain warranty. I assume the emissions warranty extension does not cover the HPFP. The replacement of the HPFP including labor is expensive. Also, the TDI has a timing belt which is expensive to replace. Here's a thread to look at. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=284441&page=136 I got the same FE with the Jetta as I do in my C-Max except diesel fuel runs about 20% more on average than gas. Jetta TDI was better on the highway at 75 mph then the C-Max but worse in suburbs / city. I liked my Jetta but wanted more hauling capacity with similar FE. The C-Max fit the bill.

The C-Max is a great car but before you buy an Energi you need to determine how much capacity the High Voltage Battery has lost. Rather than explain it here, ask on the Energi site. See the quote below by rbort and link as it was posted today. There have been several purchasers of used Energis recently that were not aware of HVB capacity fade (degradation) and what one needs to do mitigate such fade. You don’t want a big surprise after purchase. “Its an awesome car but you do have to take care of the battery, that's very important so please read alot here and manage the battery so that it will last you and not get damaged. I have a 2017 with 45k miles and the battery still charges to 98.9 SOC and is in like new condition, so it can be done for sure.” - rbort http://fordcmaxenergiforum.com/topic/8260-new-owner-in-milan-illinois/?p=53168

There's no issue with our Hybrid because the SOC only gets to around 70% occasionally and then is depleted rapidly. So, the time at higher SOC and high temps would be virtually zero. With the 1.1 kWh battery it's likely that there will be more time spent at higher SOC but liquid cooling should keep the battery at a reasonable temperature to mitigate capacity fade. It wouldn't surprise me if your thinking is correct. Regardless whether it is best max or not, while plugged-in (whether charging or not), the chiller (assume heat pump for winter heating of coolant) has to stay on so that the liquid HVB coolant is run through the chiller to keep battery no higher than 30 C in summer. Then, one can unplug in morning and drive and not worry as much about capacity fade. Problem is we will likely not know until someone buys an Escape PHEV and runs tests and records data. Perhaps Ford will describe the operations in the Service Manual for the Escape. Battery fade is a fact of life of lithium ion batteries that Ford needs to cover under warranty. That's they only way I'd buy one in the first few MY years. All one needs to do is read the C-Max and Fusion Energi forums about owners' HVB capacity fade and Ford / dealer saying it's normal.

Hard to believe 86 F is "best" for a PHEV or EV (IIRC, the Transit will be EV / PHEV and not a Hybrid) - of course what is the definition of "best" - it likely is different for Ford vs the consumer? Everything I've read is you don't want to leave the battery at 86 F (30 C) on a full charge as there will be capacity "fade" - fancy word for degradation. Somewhere around 40 - 45 C will cause significant fade over time. My garage doesn't drop below 100 F for around 3 months during the summer period. IIRC, 68 F is considered ideal for higher storage capacity / minimum fade. Note that rbort on the Energi forums won't allow his battery temperature above mid 80 F unlike many of the other Energi owners who have suffered 2 - 2.5 kWh capacity fade (around 30% from 7.6 kWh and 40% fade in the usable kWh) in just several 10 k miles. The Escape PHEV is to have around a 14.4 kWh battery which should easily give a 30 mile EPA range. Again, the issue is charging fully and allowing the battery to sit for hours at high temperatures. So, it would likely be better to charge to the lesser of ones expected use or around a 70% SOC to minimize fade. The loss of 30% of usable range has to be weighed against Ford's warranty. If Ford would warranty capacity fade to 30% for 8 years / 100 k miles, then one can operate the PHEV like a normal car and not worry about or take actions to prevent capacity fade.

One more point is the warranty on the HVB especially for the PHEV Escape. Ford needs to step up and define a level of HVB degradation for warranty purposes. Nissan Leaf has a HVB capacity display in segments or bars. "In addition to the lithium-ion Battery Coverage for defects in materials or workmanship, the lithium-ion battery is also warranted against capacity loss below nine segments as shown on the vehicle’s battery capacity level gauge for 96 months or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first." Nissan Leaf HVB Warranty

My concern is with the 1.1 kWh battery as that is 0.3 kWh less than the C-Max Hybrid. I assume the 0.3 kWh comes off the top of the battery (higher cell voltage) as a lithium ion battery can't operate much lower than the 1.4 kWh HVB does now. I also assume that since the 1.1 is liquid cooled, Ford likely believes it can operate the 1.1 HVB at a higher cell voltage with little degradation. Curb weight of the 2020 Escape FWD / AWD FHEV is 3554 / 3706 pounds (2017 C-Max Hybrid is 3640 pounds). The C-Max usable kWh is about 0.56+ kWh between 30-70% SOC) and normally operating range of 0.2 kWh (14% SOC difference) . Assuming similar normal operating and usable ranges for the Escape as in the C-Max to get similar benefits of EV operation, the Escape normal operating range might be up to 18% (which should present no issues) but the top end of the usable range might likely be around 90% SOC to accommodate similar levels of regeneration as the C-Max. There may be Escape owners that might regenerate to the top of the range many times a day and possibly suffer battery degradation and loss of usable regenerative storage. Then, again because the Escape battery is liquid cooled perhaps the temperature of the HVB can be maintained better during regeneration (charging) which does cause HVB temperatures to rise. I'd really like to buy a PHEV as my next vehicle. But living in the Phoenix area and charging lithium ion batteries is problematic as the batteries don't like heat. I'll let other Phoenix owners buy the Escape PHEV and wait a couple years to see how their HVB performs.

Displays do not affect performance. It's personal preference. I like empower as it provides the moving threshold level for engine on / off operation primarily based on HVB state of charge. For example, one can see how much one will need to back off accelerator to get vehicle power requirements below the threshold so the ICE shuts down and EV kicks in. It can be useful in hypermiling especially on rolling terrain using pulse / glide. Engage allows one to see the power split between ICE and EV. I guess it's there to validate to owners that EV does assist ICE when needed especially during harder acceleration and higher power requirements. Otherwise, not much use for it. Download the owner's manual to look at the specifics of the displays available.

For engine overheat conditions, the PCM fuel injectors are disabled so that the cylinders with injectors disabled act as an air pump to cool the engine. If a critical temperature, which can cause engine damage, is reached, all injectors will be disabled after the driver is informed of this to allow driver to safely stop the vehicle. When I ran my covers, I always monitored Engine CT, Cylinder Head T, Transmission FT along with electric motor coil temperatures with ForScan - IMO, the best $30 or so one can spend on the car. Also, if one monitors temperatures, one can take preemptive actions to mitigate temperature rise like turning your cabin heat up to MAX, stopping to remove a block insert, slowing down going uphill, and so forth.

Probably not. How long was ICE on before this happened? What was the ambient air temperature? How is your coolant level? Probably just condensation in exhaust system from morning cool temps that turned to steam on hard acceleration as ICE was not on long enough prior to hard acceleration. Obviously, the amount of condensation, ICE operating temperature (say lower than 140 F), and catalytic converter temperature (say lower than 400 F) will affect amount of white smoke one might see on occasion. Try hard acceleration again, after you know ICE and CC are hot. If still white smoke, then issue could be coolant leaking around head gasket. Also, with ICE running smell your exhaust for coolant smell. I don't recall anyone having a blown head gasket though.

What input voltage do your power accessories require? The C-Max has a DC/DC converter capable of delivering around 145 A at a 12V battery charging voltage between 13V and 14.9 V. The C-Max 12 V battery when new is rated 43 Ah and fused at 150A. So, since your accessory loads are around 1000W for 5 minutes several times a day, the converter and battery should be able to power the accessories. The HVB is all ready protected.. The 12 V battery will “buffer” the power swings of your accessories (it’s a big capacitor). IMO, All you need to do is start the C-Max and turn off all C-Max accessory loads - lights, fans, radio, wipers, seat warmers and so forth. Your accessory load must be wired as follows: 1) 12 V Positive a) to the load side of the 150 A fuse (so if your load shorts + to ground the 150 A fuse blows or b) to a an appropriate sized fuse for your accessories off the + battery terminal and 2) the 12 V Negative to chassis ground not the 12V battery terminal. The negative battery cable has a metering circuit that the BMS uses to integrate the current flow in / out of the 12 V battery to estimate Its SOC and Ah capacity losses (as the battery ages) for use in the the 12 V battery charging algorithm. So, I don’t believe you need a B2B or a second battery. Depending on your accessory input voltage requirements you might need a DCDC converter or a DCAC inverter. i’d spend the $ to get one with higher efficiency that meets the power input specs of your accessories. Your car engine will auto start if the HVB SOC gets too low.

See the link for the displayed SOC. There’s no all inclusive list of PIDs that I have found. I’ll post sum stuff I’ve found. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/7257-battery-2016-c-max-hybrid/?do=findComment&comment=70825