plus 3 golfer

Tell your dad it is easier to pull Fuse 79 under the glove box especially if it happens once a month. Remove flexible panel under glove box (2 push pins holding it in place) and leave it off. Find Fuse 79 and using a fuse puller or needle nose plier (to make it easier to grasp), pull fuse out for a few seconds and reinsert.

That's typically how it sounds. I believe others (maybe on C-Max Energi Forum which is to be merged into this one) have recorded it also.

An electric vacuum pump controlled by the ABS supplies vacuum to brake booster chamber when ICE is off - start car, pump starts pulling air from booster. When you push brake pedal in, valve opens allowing air into brake booster assisting pushing the rod / piston into master cylinder. When brake is released, valve closes, pump starts and draws air out of booster and builds vacuum in the booster chamber.

Sounds like the vacuum pump.

Welcome. The Ford C-Max Energi forum, which was a separate forum, is to be combined with the Hybrid forum soon (see link below). You’ll then have access to a ton of Energi info. You should then read threads about how to “treat” your High Voltage Battery to mitigate capacity degradation.

There’s nothing “magic” about the control systems. The dealer though is generally not a cost effective way to replace parts. They’ll likely charge you at least $100 for diagnostic services, MSRP on parts (if it is brake pedal assembly $453) and likely $100 an hour for labor. Total might be around $800 with tax. This appears to be assembly part # CV6Z-2455-A. You might be able to find one at a salvage yard and put it in yourself. Go talk to the parts guy and have him look up the brake pedal assembly and whether one can order / replace the cam follower unit (assuming it’s bad). Also, your mechanic friend should be able to determine if that cam-follower is functional. Having looked at mine, there is wheel that as the pedal is pushed in follows a track. It appears that as the wheel moves along the track it pushes in a piston enclosed in a cylinder which likely gives the brake pedal a normal feel even though the pushrod is not engaged. There appears to be a bolt holding the wheel to the piston rod and perhaps can be replaced. The piston housing seems permanently attached to the brake assembly. In normal braking, If if the ABS control unit needs to apply the friction brakes (even though the pedal isn’t depressed far enough to engage the pushrod) it does so by a solenoid which pushes in the pushrod and then via valves, regulates pressure to rear and front brakes. So, even if the normal brake pedal feel is absent, your ABS should function correctly (and apparently it does).

Sure sounds like you damaged the Pedal Simulator Unit which "always provides pedal feedback to the driver through a consistent pedal force, by using a cam-follower mechanism that is independent of the type of braking being used." The cam-follower appears to be part of the brake pedal assembly ($300+). You can probably look underneath at the assembly and see if you can locate it.

You will need an adapter to connect to the OBDII port and the FORScan App for a Smartphone / tablet or Windows PC. https://www.obdlink.com/ https://forscan.org/ I have two cheap adapters that work but are slow and sometimes hang up and an Obdiilink MX Bluetooth that’s fast and has never stopped. You lose all data if it stops - not good. I don’t know the comprehensive algorithm that the torque monitor uses to allocate torque to ICE only, EV only, or combination of EV and ICE. There are obviously many variables that go into the computation. For example, although the temp gauge may show the engine is up to operating temp, it may not be high enough to keep cabin warm and ICE in closed loop mode (which IIRC is around 140-150 F) if EV is used when ICE is off and ambient temp is low. Try turning the climate control off and see if backing off pedal switches to EV mode. There is really not enough storage capacity to “worry” about capturing all down hill energy via regeneration. The normal HVB SOC% range is between high thirty to low fifties (say 38 - 54%). You can use hypermiling techniques to expand this some. So, the most energy your going to capture going downhill in the HVB is around 32% SOC being the difference between the HVB high limit of around 70% SOC and 38%. The new capacity rating of the HVB is 1.4 kWh. So, it doesn’t take much of a downhill to capture less than 0.5 kWh. One other point the HVB symbol is not showing the actual SOC of the HVB but a low of around 30% SOC if the symbol was zero to a high of 70% SOC when the very tip of the symbol is full. See attached.

It appears likely that a good portion of the EPA mileage boost of the 2020 Rav4 hybrid vs previous model is a reduction in weight and CdA as the attached graph shows Road Load Horsepower based on the target RLHP coefficients submitted to the EPA for emissions and fuel economy test results. Attached is a graph of RLHP for the 2018 and 2020 (Cd less than 0.30) Rav4 Hybrid, the 2020 Escape Hybrid (for two weights) and our "beloved" C-Max Hybrid (2014 data) based on the target coefficients. Of course your mileage "will" vary. The weights shown are the weight of the vehicles when tested and will affect RLHP. 2019 Rav4 - "The drag coefficient drops by 3-4 percent, depending on model, thanks primarily to a new underfloor tray. That smooths out all the air running under the vehicle (its ground clearance is up by over half an inch), which should pay dividends at speed for highway efficiency."

The snip below of the 2013 Unique Hybrid Warranty shows the transmission Is covered - see red circled words in attachment. Members have had the transmission replaced under this warranty. CARB states are 150 k miles for certain components. Download the warranty manual and see what’s covered to 150 k miles. Plugin Vehicle transmissions are specifically listed as covered in CA. http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/13hybwa2e.pdf .

Again, go to the quicklane.com website as the motorcraft tested tough max is currently on sale - $129.95. Add installation and tax and your likely around $160. +https://www.quicklane.com/en-us/savings/offer-details?offer=BT09Q

Go on the Ford Quicklane.com website as they always have specials. Also, call up your nearest Quicklane and ask.

Since OneMom’s HVB may have failed, I have attached a chart showing curves of my HVB voltage vs SOC for 4 discharge current ranges. We know that individual HVB cells degrade with time and that cell balancing is done to the “weakest” cell in groups of cells by bleeding off charge from the stronger cells. This is done to protect the weaker cell from too low of a voltage which will permanently damage the cell as the battery is being discharged. So, when looking at the curves, one can imagine what might happen if perhaps some cells degrade at a significantly faster rate than the rest of the cells. The significantly degraded cells can reduce the capacity of the “good” cells to the extent that the curves shown on the attachment will be significantly lower even though most of the cells are good. Of course Ford doesn’t replace individual cells as some owners of other vehicles have done. i have another 18k miles on my C-Max since the curves were generated. I’m going to record data again, develop new curves and compare the results to see if I can significantly detect battery degradation.

The 12 Volt battery and the High Voltage Battery are both in the back. Look at the Service Order. Does it say replaced the Hybrid battery or 12 V battery. Did you have to pay for it? The Hybrid battery should be no charge as it is warranted for 8 years and 100k miles. Also, if it was the hybrid battery, it would be the first one that I recall being replaced. The high voltage battery capacity was likely degrading over time which would result in a decline of EV miles all other things being the same. Eventually, the capacity would fall to a level where the control algorithms would not allow the car to start. Yes, short trips and cold weather kill fuel economy.

What battery was replaced, the High Voltage battery or the 12 V battery. The 12 V battery has virtually nothing to do with EV miles. Do you know whether the dealer reprogrammed any modules (it would be on the SO) or replaced any other parts when you got a new battery? I can’t think of any scenario where a bad 12 V battery could affect the power train control algorithms to alter gas engine / EV operations without a diagnostic trouble code be thrown. Where are you located and why is your “ready to drive” (ignition on) average speed less than 20 mph for 741 miles. Are you stopped with ignition on? I note the temp is 33* and your mpg is only 26.7 Mpg on the trip meter. I believe that is the lowest mpg anyone has ever reported for that many trip miles. Your % EV is 26% (190/741) which is OK but likely should be higher given your average speed is very low unless the gas engine is running when stopped to keep coolant temperature at a minimum level and cabin warm. What was your total miles on the trip meter when you would see 38?

EV = Electric Vehicle PHEV = Plug-in Electric Vehicle HEV = HYbrid Electric Vehicle The 118 is the miles driven in EV mode. In EV mode the vehicle is only being propelled by the High Voltage Battery (gas engine is not on). Compare the 118 to the total miles on the trip meter display as a %. At high speed driving at 75 + mph, I’ll be less than 15% EV miles. Driving around town at lower speeds, I will generally be above 35% EV miles.

Tell us how the cabin noise level compares to the C-Max at freeway speeds.

So, UHC warranty should be good until 2/28/2021. Since it was in an accident, 12k is a little high. Since you have vin, call a few dealers that will sell a ESP warranty online. I can’t off hand recall the dealers’ names, maybe others will and also search for esp extended warranty on forum.

Wow great car and $12k seems reasonable given it’s loaded. Get the latest nav chip and ask about Ford ESP warranty and all CSPs and recalls to ensure they have all been done. You can get the Ford’s ESP on line generally at a lower price than selling dealer. What does car fax show as the date originally titled as the original Unique Hybrid Components warranty should still apply which will cover the transmission. If you can buy a Ford ESP at a reasonable price to extend hybrid warranty for 11 years (maybe until 2023-2024), you would get coverage for unique hybrid components for close to the same time period as buying a 2016 MY with likely no issue on mileage limit.

Xxx

This rules out the Escape for me: “We tested both hybrids on our 75-mph highway fuel-economy route and saw 37 mpg from the RAV4 and only 32 mpg from the Escape.”

Ford dealer lot? How much? There are a number of CSPs which should be performed but they have an expiration date. So if dealer will not do, you will have to pay. There are many recalls that should not have an expiration. I’d get all fluids changed, likely new pads and rotors (they rust), new 12 V battery, all new filters and so forth. I wouldn’t pay more than $10 - 11k without warranties. The unique hybrid components have an 8 yr / 100 k warranty. So, there’s likely a year + warranty left. Ask, for an extended warranty. Check Ford as I believe you can get extended warranties unto 11 years from in service date.

Glad you can laugh at the key fob mixup now. It’s still puzzling how the APIM died and then came back to life. There’s no telling what the tech may have done investigating the drain issue during / after the APIM supposedly “died.” Did the dealer investigate the lift gate issue also? Perhaps jiggling enough wiring, reseating / cleaning connectors and so forth got rid of the drain. For all, I just completed driving about 2100 miles (just under 31 hours driving time) from Phoenix to Pittsburgh and monitored the 12 V battery charging. I started at 37% SOC (dropped from the normal low 40s because I was in ACC mode for a while while I re-trained the TPMS sensors and adjusted tire pressure just before the trip). I ended the trip at 66% SOC which is likely very close to my maximum charge for a my nearly 54 month old battery. I validated that 12 V battery temperature affects the charging algorithm. I don’t know the exact details but it’s clear that the set point voltage which is calculated by the PCM and used by the DCDC converter changes. See the Battery University temperature adjusted snip below. At ambient around mid 30 F, I saw set point voltages at 15.0 - 15.1 V (according to SM the maximum). At mid 50 F, I saw set point voltages around 14.7 - 14.8 V. So, basically, the charging current remains virtually the same whether the battery was warm or cold vs time on charge, current SOC and Ah of losses. It appears that the charge (Ah) into the battery would be virtually the same regardless of temperature. I also want to point out that when we talk about SOC and use voltage measurements as a proxy for SOC, that one should adjust their voltage reading for temperature which are not around 80 F and should use the following voltage adjustment from Battery University. Otherwise, we can’t compare an actual reading of 12.14 @ 90 F vs 11.96 F @ 30 F without knowing the ambient. Based on the 0.024 V per 10F, the charge in both batteries is virtually the same. “Battery Voltmeter Temperature Correction using Addition and Subtraction In this method you use the standard State of Charge versus Volts Chart. Remembering that the battery voltage will read lower in colder weather and higher in hotter weather, you simply… Subtract 0.024 volts for every ten degrees F, if the temperature is below 80 degrees F.Add 0.024 volts for every ten degrees F, if the temperature is about 80 degrees F.”

So, neither of the FOBs have the key inside? Even though the APIM may be OK once you get the car started, I’d pull F79 and leave it out or at minimum leave the cover off the BCM fuse panel and pull F79 each night and replace when starting car.

You can use a normal battery tender / charger with an EFB. It's still a flooded lead acid battery. I don't believe your are getting the Motorcraft BXT67R MAX battery which Ford has a special price (IIRC to the end of the year) for $129.95 around $10 to install and its warranted for 3 years full replacement and 100 months prorated. See below as the BXT Max sounds like it has similar attributes (technology) as an EFB. Long-life alloys and optimized grid design provide excellent performance over conventional designs in high-heat conditionsEnvelope separators help reduce and add to battery lifeMotorcraft® Tested Tough® MAX (BXT-Line) state-of-the-art technology enhances battery longevity and reduces recharging timehttps://www.motorcraft.com/us/en_us/home/new-old-our-products/batteries/motorcraft-tested-tough-max-batteries.html