plus 3 golfer

I did a quick search and I couldn’t find the 2013 MY pdf in my files or on the internet. But I had 2015 and 2017 PDFs saved. So, I attached the 2017.

I don't believe the switch is involved in the radio not shutting off. The BCM shuts down the radio after no more than 10 minutes (assuming it was left on) after car is turned off whether the door is opened or not. A bad switch could keep the BCM (and perhaps other modules from going into "sleep" mode. With a weak battery, it's possible that one could get a dead battery from the drain of modules not going to sleep after a few days or so. But, if switch is stuck open, the door will show ajar on the display when starting up. If switch is stuck closed when entering vehicles, dash and lights should not come on. Thus, an owner should know something is amiss and the problem is easily diagnosed. AFAIK, there has not been a TSB on the this issue (stuck door ajar switch) for the C-Max. So, I highly doubt this is the cause of the many 12 V dead battery issue that some owners have had . If it were, Ford would have issued a TSB.

No, why do you ask??

I’ve never monitored PIDs in extremely low temps with respect to EV / ICE operations. Attached is a good read. It’s for MY 2017 but should be same as 2013. Note that the Fuel Monitor entry ICE temperature is 155F page 63. So, I’d want ICE to be at least at that temp before trying to “force” EV operation. I would keep my 1977 240D running in the parking lot trying to keep fuel from gelling at around 0F and below high daily temps . At about 10F, I never had an issue starting. Even added gas to the fuel. It worked for the several days a year I had to leave it running. But I’d get a couple calls a day, saying “you left your car running.“ OBDSM1700_HEV.pdf

I'd just get it on Amazon and with Prime, I would have it Tuesday. Here's what's in the WS manual for front door handle. Rear is virtually the same.

What is warmup? When the emissions monitors and checks begin running, when the control algorithms switch to closed loop operation, when ECT is high enough to start opening thermostat (180F), when grille shutters start to open (around 194F), when thermostat and grille shutters are fully open, and so forth. ICE will run most efficient at higher ECT. So, the quicker on gets ECT to the max temp for current conditions, the greater will be FE. If ones goal is highest FE, then one wants to get to the highest temp for conditions ASAP. Preheat coolant / block and use grille covers. ECT > 215F would require use of grille blocks virtually year round even in Phoenix. Even at 105F ambient my ECT will stay around 205F with no grille blocks. Factoring economics of block heaters and grille covers into the equation is more difficult. The grille covers will improve aerodynamics at higher speeds but one does have to remember that the grille covers may also be closed depending on conditions (see links below). In the second link several posts down in the thread is a video of the grille shutter operation. Also, once one starts using AC, the economics of running the compressor with grille blocks at higher pressure due to less heat being removed from the condenser may negate the higher ICE efficiency from higher ECT and aero benefits of grille blocks.

I don’t find ETM of much value. Get the FORScan App. https://forscan.org There is an AudioControlModule test for speakers. I don’t recall if there are others. So, if there were any in my 7+ years of ownership, they were likely insignificant like the ACM test.

It’s fairly easy to remove the outer door handles and spray the electrical connector and wires. See link. Also, make sure the sensor under the door handles are clean. Lastly, your key FOB batteries may need replaced. Here's how the Passive Entry works: Passive Entry The passive entry feature unlocks or locks the doors or opens the liftgate without having to use a mechanical key or the RKE transmitter feature. When the RFA module detects a lock or unlock sensor is touched on an exterior door handle or the liftgate release button is pressed, it activates the low frequency antenna in the corresponding exterior door handle or inside the rear bumper cover. The low frequency antenna sends out a signal to the passive key. The low frequency signal activates the passive key and the passive key then sends a high frequency signal back to the Radio Frequency (RF) Receiver. The Radio Frequency (RF) Receiver interprets the high frequency signal from the passive key and sends the information to the RFA module. If the RFA module detects a programmed passive key, the RFA module unlocks the driver door, unlocks or locks all 4 doors, or sends a command to the Rear Gate Trunk Module (RGTM) to open the liftgate. There are also 3 PATS antennas to pick up the FOB transmission for locking and unlocking car from FOB. One under the dash pretty much under the start push button, one in the back of the center console, and third in hatch area under center of lift back. It's possible that the FOB batteries are weak and the high frequency signal can not be picked up by the PATS antennas if FOB on passenger side. https://static.oemdtc.com/TSB/14-0078.pdf

I believe you can turn off the rear parking aid sensors in the left hand info display. Do you have the automatic parking assist?. It’s part of package 303, IIRC. If not, there are no sensors installed in the front. Just a place holder for them. Backup camera and Nav, IIRC, are part of package 302. Download the owners manual as I don’t know how the parking assist is enabled (probably a button switch).

Look at the parts list for your answer.?

Could there have been moisture / ice on handle. Yes, check your battery voltage before you start the car as low module voltages can create issues. It’s possible there’s a wiring, connection problem with the door module or handle where a circuit is “stuck” open / closed. As I said prior, the BCM initiates commands over the CAN to the modules to unlock doors for a valid FOB when door handles are touched. So, even if there is a bad circuit, the default is likely to unlock doors in presence of a valid FOB. There are DTCs for the door handles and door modules. For curiosity, check the ETM to see if there are any codes. See below. “To enter the IPC engineering test mode or dealer test mode, begin with the ignition OFF. Press and hold the LH steering wheel switch OK button. Place the ignition ON and continue to hold the button for 5-8 seconds until the display indicates ET in the upper LH corner of the message center. Press the up or down arrow buttons to navigate through each of the display windows. To exit the IPC dealer test mode, press and hold the OK button for 5-8 seconds or place the ignition in OFF. Each down arrow button press advances the viewing window to the next set of items. ... DTC HIST CURR xxxxxx x x xxxxxx x Displays all of the Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) set (history and current Diagnostic Trouble Codes [DTCs]). An X in the HIST or CURR column means the DTC is active. Three Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) display on each screen. If more Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are present, there will be additional screens listing them. If there are no Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in history or current, the display will only be the title row.”

Congrats, it’s good we have an Escape Hybrid owner that can compare it to the C-Max. How’s the turning radius?

Have you tried cleaning the touch sensitive area behind the handles? The fob is always transmitting and the receiver in the car sends the data to the BCM to validate the fob. So, the BCM must believe the touch sensor is being touched.

Because the Warranty document says the hybrid transmission is covered on page 11. http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/13hybwa2e.pdf

The transmission has always been listed as a covered component under the 8Yr / 100k mile Unique Hybrid Component Warranty. See Bold / Underline text below. Most times it pays to read the Owner’s Manual and Warranty documents.?? “The electrical drivetrain system of your vehicle is covered by the Hybrid & Electric Vehicle Unique Component coverage for eight years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first. The components in the electrical drivetrain system of your vehicle will vary, depending on whether your vehicle is a hybrid, plug-in hybrid, or all-electric vehicle, but you can rest assured knowing that your vehicle’s electrical drivetrain system is covered by this comprehensive warranty. Depending on your vehicle, electrical drivetrain system components covered by this warranty may include, and are not limited to: high-voltage battery, high-voltage battery connector, high-voltage battery isolation switch (manual disconnect switch), battery pack fan assembly, battery pack sensor module (HBPSM), battery energy control module (BECM), on-board charger, on-board charger fan assembly, inverter system controller (ISC), DC/DC converter, hybrid continuously variable transmission, transmission range sensor, and the electronic drive module assembly (the electric motor and gearbox).

Exactly, deflect the “real” cause of failures back to owners. Common practice, just like VW did on HPFP failures. Owners put some gas in tank instead of diesel fuel. Just like Ford did as to why owners can’t get 47/47/47 mpg. As least we got $$$ for the EPA FE ratings fiasco.

I finally found the reference about premature failures of the bearings under certain driving conditions. Ford sent customers a note dated November 9, 2015 about CSP 14b07 clearly stating “under certain driving conditions, the transfer gear assembly bearing may fail prematurely.” IMO, it is clear that the likelihood of failure is greater if the car is operated under certain driving conditions as opposed to other driving conditions. Thus, the mileage at failure could very widely among vehicles. "REASON FOR THIS PROGRAM Under certain driving conditions, the transfer shaft gear assembly bearing may fail prematurely. This can result in thumping, rubbing, or grinding noises from the transmission, and may be accompanied by the illumination of the powertrain fault indicator (wrench light) in the instrument cluster."

Exactly why I believe its a design issue and not a batch of bad bearings. Since it doesn't appear to be a safety issue, environmental issue, or potential class action litigation, we likely will never know. Ford (EPA FE fiasco), VW (HPFP issues, emissions cheating), Boeing (737 Max), and many others will never "admit" to a design flaw even though they knew or should have known prior to issue surfacing. It would be interesting to compare the internal parts diagram of the transmissions for the 2020 Escape Hybrid, 2017 C-Max and the 2013 C-Max. Maybe Weber State will make a comparison video.?

I have never seen where Ford said there was a bad batch of bearings. I believe a member may have had the dealer (not a reliable source, IMO) tell them that but I believe it’s a design issue based on Ford’s statements like: “The problem: The transfer shaft assembly bearing may fail prematurely“ and a statement I can’t readily find but that said something like “under certain conditions the bearings may fail prematurely.” Support of a design flaw rather than a batch of bad bearings comes from several additional TSBs on the issue which superseded the original TSB 14-0024 (issue date 01-31-2014). The latest TSB 18-2328 (dated 10/30/2018) states: “Some 2013-2016 Fusion, MKZ and C-Max vehicles equipped with an HF35 transmission and built on or before 15-Aug-2015 may exhibit a thumping/rubbing or grinding noise coming from the transmission.” The build date of affected vehicles has not changed for several years. If the issue was really a bad batch of bearings, I would expect all MY 2015 and 2016 to have “good” bearings since the issue was certainly known by Ford prior to 1/31/2014 when the first TSB was issued.

Yes, which is why I said mileage is not a reliable indicator of HVB capacity. OP needs to record kWh from full charge to switch over from EV mode to Hybrid mode.

Jim D, you need to measure the kWh used from a full charge until drive mode switches from EV to Hybrid. That will give you an idea of your battery degradation from new. IIRC, a new HVB will should deliver around 5.5 kWh of EV only driving. MIles driven on a full charge is not the best measure of lost capacity. As soon as the forum administrator are able to merge the fordcmaxenegiforum into this forum, you should have many Energi owners that will help you. Where are you located? Battery leakage? - if meaning battery degradation, it occurs in Lithium Ion batteries as the batteries are used (cycled). So, one can operate the HVB pack to mitigate battery degradation, like not charging HVB if the battery temperature is above a certain level, limiting frequency of charging to full capacity and so forth. Again, Energi owners can help.

WIth respect to whether Ford mitigated the transmission issue with MY 2015, refer to my previous linked post below. I don't believe anyone knows but Ford whether the issue has been "fixed."

I can relate the perceived failure rate of C-Max transmission with the issue of the HPFP failures on 2009+ VW TDIs. The MSRP on parts to replace everything that was contaminated with metal in the fuel system was over $5k and labor was about another $1k. There seemed to a lot of HPFP failures on the TDI forum on early model TDIs (mine failed at 44k miles but covered on warranty). We documented over 200 failures on the forum (many past the 5 yr 60k mile warranty) but some under warranty and the rest not covered under warranty because of fuel contamination. We believed that most owners whose pump failed and covered under warranty didn't participate in the forum. Some owners who paid for the HPFP repair likely sought out the forum to complain. Many forum members believed the failure rate was extremely high like well north of 10% for MY 2009. NHTSA investigated the issue because many failures happened will driving the car and left the owner powerless at highway speeds. So, eventually VW had to supply lots of data on the failures to NHTSA. Long story short, here's a summary I prepared from the VW reports of the HPFP failures showing the failure rates which many thought would be at least 10% on 2009 MY. As you can see the failure rate was actually less than 5% for MY 2009. So, since the cost to repair a failure is very high (HPFP or transmission), I believe it's natural to assume the worst even though we really don't know how many transmission or HPFPs have actually failed. We speculate on failure rates based on owners complaining about the high cost to repair. Transmissions fail on all cars but the cost to replace is the salient point. If one can replace a failed transmission for $3k, why spend $4k+ more for a 2016 when one really is only speculating on the failure rates and will suffer likely $1-2k in depreciation on a 2016 as soon as they walk out the door. If you won't be able to sleep at night because of a potential transmission failure, don't buy a C-Max even though it's a great car.

First, there is no transmission pan. I suppose you could get a magnetic drain plug. But, you can easily drain the fluid out and check and then fill by the fill / Fluid level plug. IIRC, fluid change maintenance is 150k miles. I don’t recall if anyone has made it past 200k on the original transmission on early MY C-Maxes. There’s likely early taxi fleet C-Maxes that may have made 200k miles. So, my guess is that the likelihood of a transmission failure prior to 200k on early MYs may be as high as 10%. I would also guess that over 90% make it past 100k miles (8 yr. / 100k mile is warranty in non CARB states). I have 122k miles on my 2013 C-Max with no bearing issue “symptoms / sounds.” Unfortunately, only Ford knows the failure rates of the C-Max transmissions. Attached is a snip of CR reliability consumer survey results for the C-Max. Yellow is average, light green with an one chevron is better than average, and dark green with two chevrons is excellent reliability. , If I were to get a used one, I’d get a late build 2016 MY or later MY as it appears Ford may have mitigated the bearing issue in those transmissions. Of course you will pay more for a 2016 than a 2014 all other things being similar. But, the 2016 likely has a better chance to make 200k miles on the original transmission.

One will notice a difference after a few years if one doesn't reset the BMS as the charging algorithm will see significant accumulated capacity loss (3 years of old battery losses + several years of new battery losses). The result will be a continued lowering of the SOC of the new battery. The only way to get the new battery to its then current "full" capacity is to charge the battery by driving maybe 20 hours over a few days or an external charger overnight. But without resetting the BMS, the new battery SOC even if externally charged to "full" will continue to decline to what the PCM (using BMS data) believes is the current battery capacity (new battery capacity of 43 Ah minus the BMS computed capacity losses over time from last BMS reset). IMO, BMS NOT RESET for new battery is why many people including myself have seen reading around 12 V +- a few tenths as their BMS was not reset after their battery was replaced. NOT RESETTING "negates" the benefits of a BMS - to extend the service life of the battery (mitigate sulfation) by 1) preventing overcharging and 2) keeping battery charged to near full capacity (43 Ah less capacity losses). Of course, we will never know how much life was added by doing the BMS reset but we do know that sulfation is the primary cause of batteries failing.?