plus 3 golfer

Because ICE may not be running all the time, there is a electronic vacuum pump which is the primary source of vacuum for the ABS. If it fails, the backup would be ICE vacuum, and software would keep ICE running in that event. Look at the attached pdf starting at page 180 on the ABS. If you don't have a DTC (vacuum low, vacuum leak detection), it's hard to justify replacing parts with the hope it fixes the noise. I've found the best way to use FORScan is to record data and then analyze the data via a spreadsheet comparing data when the issue (noise, brake pedal in) is present and not present. You could also record engine data when starting car and do the same comparing rough idle condition with normal condition. How many miles on your car? "Vacuum level sensors are used to monitor the vacuum being provided by the engine and vacuum pump, and isused to control the state of the electric vacuum pump. Failure modes sensed and detected include vacuum supplylow, and vacuum leak detection." OBDSM1503_HEV.pdf

Why? Are you having problems? If yes, put a couple of bottles of fuel injection cleaner in your tank (I like Techron). Also, use Top Tier gas.

Maybe try activating the ABS by driving at 40 mph and slamming on the brakes and see if a DTC is thrown, (CEL) or message pop up.

That thumping doesn’t sound normal to me. I’ve never heard it with foot on brake.I’ll look again at the manual for any tests that might be done continuously that might have a frequency of a few seconds. Maybe the solenoid valve is operating on / off and the push rod is being drawn into the master cylinder or the fluid pump is kicking on / off. Another potential use for the FORScan App to look at ABS data. There are other valves that control the pressure to the front / back brakes, dump valves and so forth. Dealer won’t do anything without a DTC showing.

You are not the first that the APIM was "deemed" to be the issue causing "no starts". You can check if dealer reset battery age by timing how long it takes for the radio to shut down after key off (don't open / close door). With battery age reset, the radio will play for exactly 10 minutes before the screen will show a message saying shutting down to conserve power (or something similar). If not reset recently, the time will be less than 10 minutes and some including my self have seen as low as around 90 seconds (battery age around 4 1/2 - 5 years old). The PCM determines how the 12 V battery is charged. It then sends a voltage set point to the DC/DC converter. There are PIDs that one can view via ForScan for the 12 V battery that show the accumulation of the Ah in and out of the 12 V battery among other data. The battery age reset function zeroes out these accumulators. So, the PCM algorithm can estimate the "remaining capacity" in the battery from the data and also determine the lost capacity of the battery from new. The algorithm then determines the "best / appropriate" set point voltages vs time.

With respect to the brake noise, OP, try posting question on the C-Max Energi Forum also and even the Fusion Energi Forum. Noise from the ABS is considered normal as a vacuum pump motor, fluid pump motor, and booster solenoid will be operated. Did the dealer scan for Diagnostic Trouble Codes? The ABS is considered a part of the OBDII monitoring because it controls regenerative braking which affects FE. If dealer found no faults, the noises are likely normal. So, are you holding the brake pedal all the way and the noise repeats every 10 seconds? If so, that could be the operation of the electric hydraulic brake fluid pump by the ABS module. I don't know the frequency of testing / monitoring to detect faults. What happens when you take your foot off the brake? no noise? How far are you pushing the pedal if not holding it in? and is the noise still there if not all the way in? There is the brake booster solenoid (see snip in above post) that will open to allow vacuum to draw the booster diaphragm and push rod towards the master cylinder piston, building hydraulic pressure. Air will rush in on the other side of the booster diaphragm.

Not quite, if the brake pedal is pushed far enough, the brake booster push rod is forced into the master cylinder and conventional friction braking occurs. Brake by wire is a necessity for EVs, PHEVs, and HEVs for regenerative braking purposes. But, I doubt there is any brake by wire system that does not have a mechanical link from the brake pedal to the master cylinder for safety. One can look up the NHTSA Standards and Rules that apply to braking and see what is required. Here's a snip on the how this is implemented in the C-Max.

Ok, I recorded about 20 PIDs while shifting to N and D, ICE on / off applying brakes to see when regen occurs. I plotted the data but it would take too long to clean up tp make it easy to understand, Bottom line: I saw no indication that regenerative braking occurs when in N. So, shifting to N and using friction brake may promote a normal rotor wear pattern so as not to fail a state inspection. I would think though that the frequency that one would have to do such might be several times a day or perhaps one should stop trying to get 100 % brake score. :) 1) Regenerative braking does not happen when in N whether ICE is on or off. 2) Pushing / delaying release of accelerator pedal when shifting from D to N does not start or affect regenerative braking. 3) When in N and ICE on, generator charges HVB whether moving or stationary. You can keep ICE on at around 1400 rpm by pushing accelerator pedal in. 4) Pushing brake pedal in N turns ABS from a status off to on. Hydraulic brake pressure increases and friction braking occurs. 5) Pushing brake pedal in when in D does not turn ABS status to on until maximum regenerative braking can not meet demand of driver. 6) Traction motor will immediately stop regenerative braking (simulating ICE braking when coasting) if shifting from D to N.

I know that if coasting in N (foot off accelerator and brake), there is no regenerative braking and no score. This makes sense because the regenerative braking with no brake pedal applied should simulate engine braking when in D and no engine braking when in N. It also makes sense that if one pushes the brake pedal while coasting in N, one should still get regenerative braking. Just look at ForScan and monitor brake pressure and current flow of the HVB. There may even be a PID for regenerative braking. If regenerative braking occurs, current will flow into the HVB. If brake pressure increases above a threshold amount, friction braking occurs. Next time out I'll test and record what happens. We know that there is a Brake over Acceleration software which I hope would work in all gears in case of issue with gear status. This may be why perhaps "With more experimentation it seems that if you shift to N before taking you foot off the accelerator, you don't get a score" - perhaps the algorithm kicks in and uses friction brakes. Brake Over AcceleratorThe brake over accelerator feature may not be active during low speed operating conditions. This enables unique drive maneuvers such as trailer tow, boat launch and retrieval or operation in hilly environments where the operator may require the application of both the accelerator pedal and the brake pedal during low speed maneuvering. The brake over accelerator feature will be active at speeds greater than 16 km/h (10 mph). In the event the accelerator pedal becomes entrapped, such as by an object lodging the pedal, the brake over accelerator feature will reduce engine power when the brake pedal is applied. The hybrid vehicles achieve a result similar to the brake over accelerator feature by reducing power if the brakes are applied while the accelerator pedal is pressed. Operators that rest a foot on the brake pedal when also applying the accelerator pedal may activate the brake over accelerator feature. The brake activation is detected by the PCM from the electrical brake switch. In addition to brake over accelerator comments, the customer may bring the vehicle in for repair to address concerns such as a hesitation/stumble or a lack/loss of power. In the event of a hesitation/stumble or a lack/loss of power concern, carry out normal vehicle diagnostics for the appropriate symptom code. If the brake over accelerator feature is suspect, the BRKOVR_ACTION, BRKOVRD_POSS and DIST_BRKOVRD PIDs will display a brake over accelerator event occurred. In the event the brake over accelerator feature is suspected as the cause of the customer concern, explain to the customer the details of the override system as described above. Additionally, make sure the customer is aware that resting a foot on the brake pedal while driving may cause the activation of this feature. This also results in activation of the brake lights on the vehicle while driving. For additional information refer to the Owners Literature.

The coolant temperature is an inferred value from the Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor. There is no coolant temperature sensor. Since it provide values from 88 C to 205 C it's likely OK. At normal operating range, CHT is about 7*F higher than the coolant temperature displayed based on my observations with ForScan. I assume coolant level is OK. After car has cooled down overnight. Do not start ICE. Check coolant temperature in ETM. If it's around ambient, then CHT sensor is likely OK. Make sure the coolant pump works. Start ICE and turn heater to MAX. ICE should run. Hot air should after a few minutes com out the cabin vents. Watch coolant temperature in ETM. Make sure grille shutters are open. Check if radiator coolant fan is operating. You may have to go for a drive to get coolant high enough for coolant fan or shut off heater. Changing thermostat and CHT sensor are not difficult and not very expensive. Thermostat is serviced from under car near oil filter but system needs to be drained. CHT sensor is on top of engine. Remove engine cover. See pic and note below. Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) Sensor Note: If the CHT sensor is removed from the cylinder head for any reason it must be replaced with a new sensor. The CHT sensor is a thermistor device in which resistance changes with the temperature. The resistance of a thermistor decreases as temperature increases, and the resistance increases as the temperature decreases. The varying resistance affects the voltage drop across the sensor terminals and provides electrical signals to the PCM corresponding to temperature.

Where was I blaming driving styles? I am wondering why the transmissions fail at what seems to be a wide mileage range. Based on the direction of rotation of the helical gears and the slanting of the teeth, the tangential (axial) torque on the shaft may apply more load towards the damper side of the case where the shaft bored the hole. We don’t know how the engineers determined the spec for the bearing but Ford engineers have been known to make errors. Perhaps, they failed to account for the frequency of certain driving styles which apply more thrust to the damper side more often and causing more wear. I am simply wondering why mileage varies when failure occurs. The supposition that there is a bad batch of bearings seems unlikely since the latest TSB covers 2013 through some 2016 MYs. Transmissions and virtually all part have a design life that should account for how the parts operate. When one looks at the parts diagram, one sees the three gears on the transfer shaft which all spin in the same direction. Note the direction of the teeth on the gears. Two of the gears in normal driving supply power and torque to the transfer shaft. The other gear is to the differential and experiences the drag forces on the car, in essence the road load HP. These forces on the gears will apply axial forces on the shaft in different directions depending on driving modes: EV (regen or propulsion), ICE on / off, and so forth. See the note below that Ford sent customers in 14b07 clearly stating “under certain driving conditions, the transfer gear assembly bearing may fail prematurely.” Ford note: Under certain driving conditions, the transfer shaft gear assemblybearing on your vehicle may fail prematurely. This can result inthumping, rubbing, or grinding noises from the transmission, andmay be accompanied by the illumination of the powertrain fault indicator in theinstrument cluster (shown above to the right).

I think the key to all of this is to monitor ones transmission for noise and "catch" the issue before it becomes catastrophic and requires transmission replacement. If caught soon enough, the repairs will likely be around $2500 as Ford sells a transfer shaft / gear assembly kit. MSRP of kit is around $740 with Ford dealers selling it for around $500+. Today, I very carefully listened for any noise from my 110 k mile tranny (especially in EV) and heard nothing. If these transmission begin to fail in droves, a preemptive approach may be a good choice for $2500. The question is at what mileage should this be done. I wonder if a scope could be inserted (perhaps through the fill port) to look at the transfer assembly. Let's hope Ford does the right thing and issues another CSP to extend coverage a couple more years and reimburses those that have paid for the repair.

I believe it is a defective design. Manufacturing issues should have long been corrected prior to 2017 when Ford issued TSB 17-0039. TSB 17-0039 includes cars built on or before 8/15/2015. This includes some MY 2016 vehicles. CSP 14B07 covered failures through 5/31/2016 regardless of mileage. Problem is Ford has to make the call and is choosing not to cover past warranty period. Shame on Ford for not covering the "clear defect" regardless of mileage with additional CSPs for 7 years of ownership. I believe MY 2013s have yet to reach 7 years of ownership.

Maybe you mentioned before but what did the noise sound like? Did it change when in ICE or EV only mode? Speed? Coasting? Regen braking? Or was it virtually the same since the problem is with the transfer shaft / gear assembly which spins when ever the car is moving. I wonder if torque applied from ring gear, traction motor or wheels makes a difference and perhaps driving style affects issue. For example, in high speed driving, ICE supplies virtually all the torque and in moderate speeds and use hypermiling techniques, there would be more cycling between ICE / EV modes. Although we don’t have a lot of data, it seems failures occurred over a wide range of mileage.

Woulda, coulda, shoulda. :) I'd probably be a billionaire, if ................ You just mentioned a car I would not own having "tried" to buy one for several years prior to my C-Max purchase in Dec. 2012. I had high hopes that each new Prius version / model as it came out (especially the Prius V in 2012) would meet my requirements but they all failed after a test drive. You made the decision to buy a C-Max. Look forward not backward in assessing what to do. ;) What if a 2015 low miles replacement transmission for $4 k would get you another 75 k miles (say 4 years). What would the depreciation be of a new Prius at 75k miles over 4 years - my guess at least 3X the $4 k and maybe more. That's likely at least $6-8 k banked (after accounting for sales tax on Prius and FE savings over the C-Max) to fund other maintenance items on the C-Max. Look at Edmund's true cost to own the cheapest Prius and the most expensive Prius for 5 years at 15 k miles per year. IMO, depreciation after 4 years and 75 k miles would approach the total 5 year depreciation. Depreciation (lowest cost) $4,963 $2,037 $1,928 $2,262 $2,141 Total = $13,331 Depreciation (highest cost) $7,695 $2,743 $2,596 $3,045 $2,885 Total = $18,964

The joys of ownership. :) These are the stories that makes one think about dumping a car once the warranty is up to capture whatever value is left in the car. KBB says my car at 110 k miles is worth about $4 k on trade. I only dump cars I don't like. I like my C-Max. :) Snowstorm is having his tranny (176 k miles) replaced presently with a used one with a warranty and IIRC for likely less than $4 k. SS should be reporting back any day now on the replacement. So, should one spend $4 k to replace a transmission on a car with 176 k or 157 k or should one cash out of a "good" 110 k mile C-Max for $ 4 k because of the risk of a transmission failure or other possible high cost in the future. The economic decision likely favors spending the $4 k as a $30+ k new car replacement will likely depreciate more than $4 k the first year and the risk of another large expense on the "fixed" vehicle for the next year is low. The "fixed" car now has several $000 in value and can be traded in an a year or two. Cars depreciate yet most fail to recognize this in the economic analysis of fixing to extend the life of a vehicle or not fixing. The financial decision is how fund a $4 k cost to replace a transmission. Many will likely not want to throw $4 k at a car with 156 k miles and others can't. Buying a replacement vehicle instead of fixing allows for financing over many years (spreading cash flow over time) and aversion of the risk of future high expenditures on the "broken" vehicle (allowing many to again sleep at night).

2013 C-Max has a crankcase oil vent separator and a cam cover oil separator. Why put a another after market system on? So, where did you find that the early C-Max is most likely prone to intake valve carbon caking? I monitor misfires and see virtually no variations in misfires detected since I got my first OBDII Smartphone App around 10 k miles (currently 110 k miles). "The PCV valve is installed into an oil separator that is bolted to the side of the block. The PCV valve is designed to last the full useful life of the engine and is not designed to be removed from the oil separator. The PVC valve is connected to the intake manifold hose using a quick connect. Because the PCV valve cannot be removed from the oil separator, the quick connect will be disconnected in the event vehicle service is required. Molded plastic lines are used from the PCV valve to the intake manifold. The diameter of the lines and the intake manifold have been increased to 0.625" so that inadvertent disconnection of the quick connect will cause either an immediate engine stall or will not allow the engine to be restarted. The crank case ventilation hose on the cam cover is connected to the air induction system using quick connects. The cam cover also incorporates an oil separator." - Ford 2013 MY OBD System Operation Summary for Plug In and Hybrid Electric Vehicles

$130 for the Tested Tough Max battery is good but $107 for installation seems high as it can't be any more than 1/2 hr job including resetting battery age. Again as I've said many times, if you have a windows laptop / tablet, you can download the "free" trial 2.3.21 beta, 2019-03-30 version of ForScan and reset the battery age. You'd need to buy an appropriate ELM327 adapter or less than $15 to plug into OBD2 port. You can also buy the iOS or Android lite version of the ForScan App for your smartphone for $4.99. So, for around $150 you can DIY and enjoy the PID data available with ForScan. IMO, ForScan is worth it just to monitor / set tire pressure. :)

If it's a friction modifer that increases friction to prevent clutches / bands from slipping / chattering, I wouldn't think one would want to dump that in the C-Max transmission. I would think one would want a "friction reducer" additive. Most are likely "snake oil". If your noise is related to the traction motor load (either EV or Regen), the gearing on the transfer shaft is likely wearing away / not meshing properly likely due to "play" developing in transfer shaft (IIRC, a batch of bad bearings in MY 2013) referenced in "thumping" TSB in recent thread. I doubt whether any additive will stop this process.

P05A1 Active Grille Air Shutter "A" Position Sensor Minimum / Maximum Stop Performance When the grille shutter actuator senses it is unable to obtain a fully open or closed position of the grille shutter, it sends a message to the PCM via the LIN . The PCM then sets the DTC when the fault is communicated for a predetermined amount of time.

Search the attached document for P26CA, P26D0, P26D3 and U019F all relating to the cooling system. P1703 - Brake Switch Out of Self Test Range Description: This DTC sets when, during the key ON engine OFF (KOEO) self-test, the brake pedal position (BPP) switch signal was high, or during the key ON, engine running (KOER) self-test, the BPP signal did not cycle high and low. Possible Causes: BPP circuit open BPP circuit short to ground BPP circuit short to voltage Stoplamp circuits open Stoplamp circuits short to ground Stoplamp circuits short to voltage Concern in module connected to the BPP circuit Damaged brake switch Incorrectly adjusted brake switch P1408 - EGR Flow Out Of Self Test Range Description: This test is carried out during the key ON, engine running (KOER) self-test only. The exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system is commanded on at a fixed engine speed. This DTC sets when the PCM detects the EGR flow is less than or greater than expected. Possible Causes: Electric exhaust gas recirculation (EEGR) valve stuck open or closed EEGR connector not seated correctly EEGR stepper motor VPWR circuit open EGRMC circuit open EGRMC circuit short to voltage EGRMC circuit short to ground Vacuum signal to manifold absolute pressure (MAP) restricted or leaking Mass airflow (MAF) sensor signal erroneous Carbon build up in the EEGR valve seat area P05A1 - Grille Shutter A Minimum/Maximum Stop Performance Description: Possible Causes: Diagnostic Aids: Refer to the Workshop Manual Section 501-02, Front End Body Panels to continue diagnosis. Application Key On Engine Off Key On Engine Running Continuous Memory All Refer to the Description, Possible Causes and Diagnostic Aids for the DTC. OBDSM1503_HEV.pdf

I've not changed brakes on my C-Max. But, looking at the Service Manual, I see nothing that should cause issues and the procedure looks like all the other rear brake jobs I've done. I've never used a piston retractor tool. I simply disregard the warning in the Manual: NOTICE: Do not pry in the caliper sight hole to retract the pistons as this can damage the pistons and boots. And sometimes have to use a c-clamp to push the piston all the way in especially when replacing rotors and pads. Parts stores use to lend tools like a piston retractor when purchasing from them. Don't know whether they still do. I don't see how sanding could ever work on the rotors as it would be hard to get a sander "flat" on the surface of the disc all the way around. I'd just spend the $100 rather than likely wasting a lot of time with poor results. SS? Have no idea but sounds expensive. Another reason I love AZ: No state required periodic inspection of cars and no emissions inspections since I do not work / live in an air quality control area.

Sure sounds like the hole is related to the "thumping" TSB. Damper housing develops hole from contact with transfer shaft. Oil then leaks out of transmission into damper area and leaks past engine / damper housing mating surface. Look at the parts list and breakdown of transmission for the transfer shaft / gears (which connects ring gear and motor to final drive ring gear) that I attached previously. 5. Remove damper housing and transfer shaft assembly. Refer to WSM Section, 307-01. 6. Inspect the damper housing for transfer shaft contact or wear. Is contact or wear present on damper housing or transfer shaft?

The centrifugal clutch is just a damper between the engine and transmission that reduces vibration and harsh engagement with stiff springs when ICE starts. Smart to replace. https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/Ford__/CLUTCH-ASSEMBLY-Clutch-Friction-Disc-DISC-ASSEMBLY---CLUTCH/52358769/DG9Z7550A.html Look at pic #3 in post 31. I believe that there is a disc / pressure plate inside such that if the torque difference between engine and transmission exceeds the spring forces holding plates in place, the plates will slip slightly until torque is equal thus reducing any vibration or harsh engagement. Here's what Ford Mechanic says: "That is a called a damper, it is designed to slip briefly in the event there is a shock. It does not work like a normal manual transmission clutch which I assumed you were asking about. The only time we see damper failure is when there is a leak from above causing slippage, this also results in the damper showing sever hot spots. Is your engine flywheel mounted damper showing any fluid contamination or hot spots, if so then the damper can be your failure but not the cause if there are leaks."

Overheating is certainly an issue with battery degradation when charging PHEVs or EVs especially with an air cooled battery - just ask Phoenix area Leaf owners. There are several months where night time lows don’t drop below 90F and garage temp may not fall below 95F. IIRC, Li-Ion battery cell temps want to be below 130F. Add 240V level 2 charging with 30 Amp circuit and one is charging at 7.2 kW and air cooled would likely be insufficient to prevent significant degradation. Active liquid cooled is more expensive plus the cell have to be protected from the liquid and hence won’t be in direct contact with the cells as air would be for heat transfer. So, the question is can the liquid cooling keep cell temperatures low enough when charging at 7.2 kW at high ambient temps. Charging at 120V takes too long and not very efficient. Perhaps, there’s a point in between to balance charge time, charge level, charge efficiency, and operations for minimal degradation. But how many “hoops” does the average owner want / have to jump through to preserve their HVB. Just go to the Energi forums. I would not buy the Escape PHEV as I believe this overheating degradation will be an issue especially with faster charging. To an extent, the overheating degradation issue can be “hidden” from the customer by installing a larger battery and limiting charging to significantly less than 100%. So, the usable EV range will stay fairly constant over the life of the vehicle. The “iCE” age will continue until HVBs are a commodity and one can pull up to an “energy” station and get a recharged “energy capsule” as Ford envisioned 60 years ago. A 40 mpg FHEV is fine for me at this time. :)