ArizonaEnergi

I think I used a hammer to smash it down, but may have had the same problem and ended up unbending it and trying again and getting a lower bending point. Good luck!

My guess it was used in the manufacturing process on the line to move what it's a part of around.

Ramps not needed. Just get some phonebooks or similar objects to support the hitch close to the bottom of the car and you should be able to get the bolts started on one side then the other. Don't forget to bend the tab first! And in the right direction!

I had never heard of these dots so I went out to look and there they are! I also never heard of someone putting external tape to cover them. I have 5% tint in back and think taping over these dots is unnecessary and OCD. I'd remove it. Here's a picture of the pattern.

I saw Consumer Reports special June 2014 Car Issue today and one reason is clear for the dip in sales and that is the lousy reliability rating CR readers have given the car. If I saw these ratings, and didn't explore further to find out what was behind them, I would have never bought the best car I've ever owned. Time will tell if Fords efforts to fix the dead battery problem and improve the MFT system will pay off for this car and the ratings improve. If not, Ford may dump the model in a few years, our resale values will plummet, and we will have all learned a hard lesson about buying the first year of a new model. (Foolish me, I thought Ford having the "C-Max" in Europe for a few years would have eliminated such problems. Tsk tsk.) BTW, CR doesn't disclose how many people those survey results represent. It could be 20 irritated Energi owners and 4,000 enthusiastic Prius owners. Their chart is suspect without that info, along with the details on the negative ratings.

2013 was very good but sales have crashed in 2014. What's going on?

No, I was thinking you could put the tire in it, but if that roof doesn't allow it then its moot anyway.

We took a 3,500 mile trip last year without a second thought (ok, maybe one) about not having a spare. I would guess I've driven about 200,000 miles since my last flat. The odds of having a flat is so low its just not a significant worry. The only reason we have a spare is the wife insisted, and logic and statistics don't stand a chance against that! Have you considered a roof rack/shell?

I agree on the pump only strategy. I also have a plug kit that I would use in a locatable/accessible puncture. A plug may also be a permanent fix.

Boy, they're not my Honda's Costco-replaced sensors are they! But who would buy anything from Ford if they could avoid it? Here's one at $31 that might work. http://www.amazon.com/VDO-SE10001HP-REDI-Sensor-314-9-Sensor/dp/B00CBQFE8E/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=046W0ZD5HYQ7C8SQEDDE

No it doesn't. A suitable jack and wrench can be bought at Harbor Freight. I, for one, would rather destroy a $15 TPS than endure a multi-hour ordeal with a tow truck.

No recall notice for my 12/20/2012 build-date car. It appears I missed the bullet on this one. "Ford and the seatback manufacturer also continued to review manufacturing records from the beginning of production (beginning of the 2013 model year) through November 2013 when corrective actions were fully implemented at the manufacturing facility."

Probably an odd stress on the glass caused it. Freeway shootings seem to happen with some frequency, but still rare. One happening now: http://cjonline.com/news/2014-04-08/kc-police-seek-fed-help-possibly-related-freeway-shootings

I don't think the recalls have been excessive, but haven't kept a list. My Honda Odyssey had a number of recalls, and so does every other car it would appear. Humans are prone to fail in any enterprise and to sue seems counter-productive to the introduction of new products. Count me out.

I was reading the manual today and noticed for the first time the air compressor included the sealant canister as an integral part, which has to be replaced after using it once. Other than having a plug kit, it might be a very good idea to keep a can of sealant in the car which costs about $8, vs. paying Ford $30 to replace theirs. http://www.amazon.com/Slime-10011-Tubeless-Automotive-Sealant/dp/B000C11PYW/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top Ford should provide those replacement canisters for free during the warranty period. After-all, it was their design decisions that eliminated the spare from these cars.

The Amps gauge seems to be working, showing negative numbers under acceleration and positive numbers while coasting or breaking, with "L" giving a huge positive number. Might be interesting in seeing how a stop under breaking compares to coasting in under "L" as far as regen is concerned. Amp: HV Battery current in Amps - HV Amps - 22480b - -200 - 200 - x1 - Amps - ((((Signed(A)*256)+B)/5)/10)*-1

Had a first longer drive with my new ODBII sender and Torque. There are a couple of default and input PIDs that aren't working, but otherwise getting some good info. HBATT is a provided display aka Hybrid Battery charge. SofC is input from code provided here and is not working due to missing parens on my part. Inside Temp flips back and forth between inside and 419F, but appears to be the same as HV Temp. All the rest on this screen seem to be working. I did find I had to exit the display screen and come back to get all of them to start showing data.

I got my Elm 327 today and noticed that it's red light stays on all the time (at least an hour) after the car is shut off. Is that what others have experienced and is it a good idea therefore to only plug it in when it's going to be used? UPDATE: Never mind. I see on Amazon that it does indeed stay on, but the draw is probably low. One person there recommended rewiring it to be supplied from an Accessory source rather than a Battery source so it would only be on when the car is on. Why do I suspect this would be a chore on the C-Max? I think I will just keep it unplugged - until I start forgetting! UPDATE2: I see pictures on Amazon of people installing small toggle switches in these things to turn them off. So that's an option.

Paul, I did some voltage monitoring last year and posted it somewhere here, but it basically confirms your findings. Upon opening the door the voltage drops from about 12.4 to 11.8 within a few seconds, but then starts climbing back up over a few minutes back to 12.3 or 12.4. Upon starting the car the HV battery provides charging voltage in the 12.6+ range. Here's the thread I did on battery voltage: http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/1566-what-is-your-12-volt-battery-voltage/

Ford Roadside assistance is for 5 years, or 60,000 miles, whichever comes first. http://owner.ford.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=Owner/Page/RoadsideAssistance

I'm jumping on this hobby today and ordering this $24 BT OBD2 device: http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2VZTJP6N0Z6QL

I noticed recently that the "N" symbol on the left side of the map screen rotates to always point in a northerly direction. Somewhat redundant since it also has a compass indicator but cool nonetheless. What's not so cool is the annoying blinking white circle around the vehicle location icon. Please Ford, get rid of this stupidity!

The little doughnut tire really doesn't take up too much room inside. I think someone posted a picture that you might want to search for.

The C-Max road test score of 83 was only exceeded by a very few cars in the same or similar categories. I haven't counted them, but it might be just 10-15 out of 200 or so vehicles in these catagories that have a higher ratings. For example, only 1 mid-sized SUV had a score of 83 and the 20 others were below the C-Max rating, with the next highest being 78. The highest compact-luxury rating was 80, for a BMW X3, and only one midsized luxury, the Lexus RX had a higher rating at 88. The other 10 were lower. We buy a car for a quality and/or functional experience, and the C-Max delivers on both levels!

It does! Thank you Rebecca.