obob

If you have something like AAA, they might be able to get into the car. And perhaps try the other key.

C-Max Niro electric motor (188-141=47hp / 176-129=47 ft-lb) (139-104=35hp / 191-109=82 ft-lb) In a way, these numbers are not easy to compare without knowing more about the way they are used. Like the hp at the red line of the engine is not really that useful, though it may sell cars. Though it seems to me a more torquey electric motor would be useful for more efficient acceleration. There is a lot of stuff on the Internet about hp vs torque. Assuming your numbers and my reasoning are right - the Niro engineers chose a much less powerful gas engine and an electric motor with a lot more torque (47 vs 82). It seems like a good idea, especially for drivers that just drive the car without thinking too much about mileage techniques. And perhaps the transmission uses the electric motor so that it takes advantage of the high torque, lower horsepower. (I think the days of manufacturers fudging EPA number is greatly reduced)

Adding to fbov 1.5 bar thoughts I have used the 2 bar rule with success but for the last few months I have been mostly driving so I get the highest speed to get regen when the gas is on or else I coast. On the highway I estimate like 51 mpg though it is hard to say for I was doing a mixture of highway and suburban. So I am not speed limiting or bar limiting but regen limiting. I was surprised to get that high mileage on the highway for the motor runs a higher percent of the time compared to the 2 bar pulse and glide. When it is at this highest speed to get regen the engage screen shows no EV use so I kind of assume electric generation equals electric use. This highest regen speed means going up some hills when starting from a slow speed means a 1.5 to 1.75 bar acceleration. I use this when I am by myself in the car. It is a game I play and generally don't subject others to the full version of it. If challenging myself to get good gas mileage wasn't a game I play I would use the heater more. It really doesn't take that big a hit. My trip meter I am kind of using as a lifetime-like meter has 11K miles on it with 53 mpg. ( Though it now shows something like 1000 miles on 200 gallons for it does not display the 10Ks ) My lifetime is 47.4 though now most of my trips are short and with the cold I am frequently below that.

http://www.bose.com/prc.jsp?url=/automotive/bose_suspension/the_system.jsp http://www.bose.com/prc.jsp?url=/automotive/bose_suspension/the_solution.jsp I really think this is a great idea. Smart shocks. Programmable bump control and I can see how it is similar to noise cancellation. Here is Bose's truck seat product.

When I rotated my tires the first time the fronts, the old backs, were making lots of noise. The back tires on the 2013 wear badly. There is a very extensive message thread on that. I wanted Ford to align the back but the dealer wouldn't. I wrote Ford and at first they said they would pay for some of it, then another person took over my case and said if it is Ford's fault they would handle, call before taking it to the dealer. I called before taking it to the dealer 2-3times and an email and did not ever get a call back. I unrotated the tires and now just rotate the backs left to right. The fronts wear faster and I have replacements for the front. The back are still very good, though they do wear on the inside edge. I did have the tires reverse mounted to help with the evening out - that wasn't all that successful. My back tires now are pretty quiet using this procedure. By the way, to align the camber in the back hardware needs to be added, like a camber kit or an arm. After reading the thread below the adjustable arm seems a good way to go. My thinking on why I did not want the front tires to even out the previous back tires is that the noise is vibration and with the transmissions on the 2013 being as flacky as they are, and not sure if I put enough miles on the car to get the transmission to fail before the warranty runs out, I thought it would make the trans last longer. I am open feedback on that logic. You might want to read this, though my sound was more like a rumble than a thump. http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/5088-wheel-alignment-for-best-mpg/ I sense it is likely don't think they need to be replaced. If they are worn on one side it may be very easy to visually see.

https://carhowto.com/reset-oil-light-on-ford-c-max-after-an-oil-change/

http://www.automobile-catalog.com/tire/2017/2362820/kia_niro.html Standard tire size: P 225/55 R 17 (NOTE: THIS IS PROBABLY WRONG OR NOT ALL MODELS HAVE THIS SIZE ) http://www.topspeed.com/cars/kia/2017-kia-niro-ar169443.html year: 2017 make: Kia Model: Niro price: $ 25000 (Est.) Engine: inline-4 Horsepower @ RPM: 146 MPG(Hwy): 50 Torque @ RPM: 195 Displacement: 1.6 L 0-60 time: 10 sec. (Est.) Top Speed: 125 mph (Est.)

Wikiipedia "Its aerodynamic design helped lower the drag coefficient of the Ioniq down to 0.24"

1. With a .29 drag coefficient I wouldn't expect consumer reports highway rating to be that good. (the C-max DC is .30 as I recall, the 2016 prius and testa model S is at .24, 2. This car began selling in Korea this year (info from Wikipedia) so it is in the zone of getting bugs out as far as I am concerned. 3. That world record might have something to do with not many people wanting to invest the time to drive to the other side of the country. I would think a 2016 prius should be able to beat that easily. I have a friend who just drives conservatively and gets 68 in the no heater needed months and 61 with her 2016 prius now. A couple fuelly people are in the mid seventies. http://www.fuelly.com/car/toyota/prius/2016/krousdb/418301 This person's best tankful is 85 (1020 miles between fill ups) with 70% city.

http://www.kia.com/us/en/content/vehicles/upcoming-vehicles/2017-niro/overview "Available at dealers late Dec 2016/early Jan 2017" I may keep my C-Max until I can get a self driving car that is small but big like the C-Max and gets decent mileage like the C-Max. (and has the first year bugs exposed and fixed.)

Earlier in the year I recall seeing a $99 coupon though I don't see it now, just to emphasize the looking for coupons. I saw it on my dealer's website but often there is an overlap between their coupons and Ford coupons. Here is a link to coupons on the ford site. Not much going, but it changes. http://owner.ford.com/maintenance/service-coupons-and-offers.html By the way, Nice price on the link to the battery in Plus3golfer's link. It may give a price point on getting the dealer to lower the price.

Interesting. That my compensate for the risk of getting a first model year car. (Like my 2013 C-Max)

seal on linkage to right front wheel leak is starting to leak. There is another one that looks the same near the motor and it is dry. Not sure if it is bad enough for dealer to replace. It is only visible with cover off bottom. ( Noticed it doing an oil change. ) Picture attached.

Ouch. Getting a brake job you didn't need. Ouch. Paying 600 for less that one hours work and less that 100 in parts. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Disc-Brake-Pad-and-Rotor-Kit-Select-Pack-Single-Axle-Rear-fits-13-15-Escape-/162039193647?fits=Model%3AC-Max&hash=item25ba49e02f:g:IcQAAOSwKfVXEMzb&vxp=mtr You could by start calling the dealer with the info you now know. You might be able to get something out of them. Sometime I get a "how did we do email" after I get work done from the dealer and also sometime by Ford.

My front tires are getting near replacement marks. The gas mileage seems to go up probably because of the smaller circumference and the decreased rolling resistance. I have new Michelins for when the time seems right.

I wonder if there is a point on the trans where the progression could be monitored, easily heard through a long screwdriver or microphone of some kind, while jacked up with the wheels engaged. ( The long screwdriver works by putting the metal end on the trans in different places and putting my ear to the other end. It worked well for me on my last vechicle's trans that was bad. )

To me there is an implicit assumption that leather seats will be a source of pleasure, not frustration. Sounds to me Ford needs to fix that seat right, not some partial kludge.

Thanks, I will test that out.

I have one, a cheaper one. The one thing I don't like about it is that I have to remember to unplug it from the 12V outlet for it remains on after I remove the key. I am thinking now maybe one of the other outlets might turn off with the key ? Anyone have any insight on that ?

When my tires were newer, gravel from a parking lot I used regularly use would get stuck in the treads. It was kind of small gravel. Maybe that has something to do with it. Now that my tires are worn, that is not a problem.

I use the RCA plug frequently. I haven't had a problem with breaking cables, though I try to be careful when putting a cable in or taking it out mostly out of concern for the socket for replacing a cable is really cheap relative to a broken socket on a phone or some other device.

I have an SE so I have a key. I would think leaving the key on with the lights turned off would work. The car engine will start to recharge the battery every so often. There may be some insights here: http://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/topic/5360-drive-in-disappointment/?hl=drive-in

I witnessed something like this on the New Jersey Turnpike. I think it was more like an axle breaking than a lug nut thing. I also have had a loose wheel from lug nuts. I had lots of warning. The tire got really noisy.

I wouldn't be surprised, in the design goal to make things small and light, it would be a nightmare for a dealer transmission guy to take that transmission apart and put it back to factory specs. May require special instruments.

Any thoughts on why Ford was so stubborn in denying the claim ? I still suspect dealers get some reward for not doing work.