2014-2017 C-Max Energi 3G to 4G modem update

[cr08]

Another fun little thing I discovered:

 

Although I work from home now so have no need for the Departure Times/Go Times, I did set it up just for fun through the app. This started with no Go Times information set in the car.

 

It appears that it added the data into Sync as I was able to confirm everything showed, but Go Times were still turned off despite the Departure Times toggled on in FordPass. Should have went off at 6AM this morning but I can confirm nothing happened at that time.

 

Also, unfortunately, FordPass doesn't offer specific temps and just has Cool/Medium/Warm/Off for the cabin temp options. 'Cool' seems to set it to 65F in Sync per my own findings. I'll have a play with the others.

Edited April 4, 2022 by cr08

[GeR2]

On 4/3/2022 at 9:52 PM, bookemdano said:

Most likely, yes. The string I mentioned before amounts to a four digit number that tells the modem what kind of vehicle it's hooked up to. For our vehicles it should be set to B842. The B means it's Sync3 (versus the older sync2 system), the 8 means it's a plug-in hybrid and the 42 indicates it's in North America and communicates using CGEA 1.2 parameters (basically what "language" it speaks). @David_Tucker4actually determined the correct values for that string several months ago by trial and error, before we even knew what the official Ford programming was (@oldbeyondmeasure confirmed the official programming for us in this thread a couple of weeks ago). David found that without the correct values in that string, the remote functions would either work partially or not at all.  So that's why I think it's possible that Ford didn't program the correct string into your modem.

 

If you contact Ford (either the FordPass people or your dealership), they likely would not understand the problem/solution framed that way though, as I don't think they really ever get into the nitty-gritty of changing specific values in the programming. They just use their IDS computer system to apply the proper programming to each module in the car. So for them they wouldn't be looking at that B842 string. They'd just be connecting the car up to their system and telling it to program the modem. So yeah if you approach Ford about this then you should just mention that since the remote functions aren't working you want them to re-program the module. They should understand that request.

 

I understand your trepidation about trying to do it yourself, and no worries if it's not something you feel comfortable with. After all, since you paid Ford for the modem it's really their job to fix it. But I wanted to mention it to you, because unlike some of the other nonfunctional stuff in FordPass, I don't believe the remote start/lock/unlock features will just start working on their own if they haven't worked at all since you had the modem installed. So I think you'll need to insist that they reprogram the modem at the dealership.

 

I have an OBD2 Bluetooth device and a Windows 11 laptop.  What are the risks of inspecting the data on the modem?  

[cr08]

On 4/4/2022 at 2:34 PM, GeR2 said:

 

I have an OBD2 Bluetooth device and a Windows 11 laptop.  What are the risks of inspecting the data on the modem?  

Virtually nothing when it comes to the TCU. At worst if some of the AsBuilt is configured incorrectly, the TCU just won't work. The rest of the car should (under 99.9% of cases, there could always be that 0.1%) remain functional and unharmed. As well, a misconfigured AsBuilt shouldn't brick the TCU. If it's misconfigured, just go back in and reconfigure it and try again.

 

There's a reason most of us here have been experimenting with these seemingly blindly. For the most part there's no harm in doing so.

 

That said, ALWAYS back up your AsBuilt programming to start with. ForScan provides a simple 'Save All' button to save this to file somewhere and you can go back and reload it later to restore it back to the way it was.

[cr08]

More details on the Go Times/Departure Times stuff after playing around with it:

 

Added a few more times in FordPass and they passed over to Sync and this time it turned on Go Times in the vehicle. I'll let it go and see if it operates the way it should.

 

Temperature translations:

Cool: 65F

Medium: 72F

Warm: 85F

Edited April 4, 2022 by cr08

[bookemdano]

On 4/4/2022 at 1:34 PM, GeR2 said:

 

I have an OBD2 Bluetooth device and a Windows 11 laptop.  What are the risks of inspecting the data on the modem?  

As @cr08 said, there is basically no risk to just inspect it. Forscan (the software we're using to do this) is very good about warning you before doing anything that makes any changes to the car. At this point all you're going to do is read the As-built (programming) of the modem, take a screenshot or photo of it and post it here. We can then tell you if it's correct or not and how to fix it if you want to.

 

So if you're interested, the first step would be to get Forscan installed on your laptop and a trial license.

 

1. Go to https://forscan.org/download.html and download "FORScan for Windows v2.3.46" (current version as of today's date).

2. After it finishes downloading, find the file and install it (I assume you know how to do this. If not, let me know)

3. After it installs, it normally places a shortcut on your desktop. Double-click it to run the program.

4. When it opens, you'll see a stack of 8 icons going down the left side. The last one is a steering wheel with a question mark in the center. Click on that.

5. The about screen should appear to the right. Look for the line showing your hardware key and copy it to your clipboard or write it down.

6. From your web browser, go to this page: https://forscan.org/support/prepare_trial_el_request.php?lang=en

7. On the support request page that comes up, fill out all of the requested fields (you can use a fake name but you must use a valid email address because they email the license to you). In the hardware ID box, paste or type in the key you obtained in step 5

8. Submit the form and wait. Usually they seem to process them within a half hour or so but may take longer. Check your inbox and junk folders in case it goes there.

9. The subject of the email will be "Free 2 month trial FORScan Extended License Registration Key" and it will come from no-reply@forscan.org. Click the link in the email.

10. In the web page that opens up, click the link that says "Download Extended License Key", which should download a small file to your computer.

11. Go back into Forscan > Steering wheel icon and click "Load License Key". It should pop up a box where you can go find the license file you just downloaded. Confirm you've selected the correct file and submit it. It should restart Forscan, and when you go back to the steering wheel icon it should say "Extended license. Registered to: <your name>. Valid until <2 months from when you requested the license>

 

That's it for getting the program installed and registered. Then you'll need to connect the OBD2 adapter to your C-Max, power on the car (can do it in accessory mode by starting the car without your foot on the brake pedal) and pair the adapter to your laptop (unless you've already done that). Once it's paired, within Forscan click the gear icon and go to the Connection tab. I think it's supposed to auto-detect if a bluetooth adapter is connected, but you can double-check it there. 

 

I'll stop here for now in case you have any questions.

Edited April 4, 2022 by bookemdano

[GeR2]

On 4/4/2022 at 2:17 PM, bookemdano said:

As @cr08 said, there is basically no risk to just inspect it. Forscan (the software we're using to do this) is very good about warning you before doing anything that makes any changes to the car. At this point all you're going to do is read the As-built (programming) of the modem, take a screenshot or photo of it and post it here. We can then tell you if it's correct or not and how to fix it if you want to.

 

So if you're interested, the first step would be to get Forscan installed on your laptop and a trial license.

 

1. Go to https://forscan.org/download.html and download "FORScan for Windows v2.3.46" (current version as of today's date).

2. After it finishes downloading, find the file and install it (I assume you know how to do this. If not, let me know)

3. After it installs, it normally places a shortcut on your desktop. Double-click it to run the program.

4. When it opens, you'll see a stack of 8 icons going down the left side. The last one is a steering wheel with a question mark in the center. Click on that.

5. The about screen should appear to the right. Look for the line showing your hardware key and copy it to your clipboard or write it down.

6. From your web browser, go to this page: https://forscan.org/support/prepare_trial_el_request.php?lang=en

7. On the support request page that comes up, fill out all of the requested fields (you can use a fake name but you must use a valid email address because they email the license to you). In the hardware ID box, paste or type in the key you obtained in step 5

8. Submit the form and wait. Usually they seem to process them within a half hour or so but may take longer. Check your inbox and junk folders in case it goes there.

9. The subject of the email will be "Free 2 month trial FORScan Extended License Registration Key" and it will come from no-reply@forscan.org. Click the link in the email.

10. In the web page that opens up, click the link that says "Download Extended License Key", which should download a small file to your computer.

11. Go back into Forscan > Steering wheel icon and click "Load License Key". It should pop up a box where you can go find the license file you just downloaded. Confirm you've selected the correct file and submit it. It should restart Forscan, and when you go back to the steering wheel icon it should say "Extended license. Registered to: <your name>. Valid until <2 months from when you requested the license>

 

That's it for getting the program installed and registered. Then you'll need to connect the OBD2 adapter to your C-Max, power on the car (can do it in accessory mode by starting the car without your foot on the brake pedal) and pair the adapter to your laptop (unless you've already done that). Once it's paired, within Forscan click the gear icon and go to the Connection tab. I think it's supposed to auto-detect if a bluetooth adapter is connected, but you can double-check it there. 

 

I'll stop here for now in case you have any questions.

 

Thanks for the post.  I was able to save your tutorial to a word document.  I'll need some time to absorb this.  When I'm feeling adventurous (perhaps in a day or two), I'll be sure to post my questions. Cheers.

[JTEX]

Just in case other forum members are experiencing the same  . .. so you know it is not your setup . . .since last evening the Fordpass app (on iOS) is not getting any response from the backend for nearly all key actions including lock/unlock, charge state, charge schedule, etc.   Top of my app says it hasn’t been updated in 16 hours.  The bottom banner says “waiting to charge” with the time stamp for last night ?

 

Things I have tried:

-force close the app

-reset the iPhone

-delete Fordpass, reset the iPhone, download fresh Fordpass, and login

 

Some historical stuff remains (like going into Journeys I can see EV data from a brief drive yesterday morning), but anything interactive to the backend is down (like going to charge settings/setup preferred . . . ./ you get a hard red error banner at the top after “begin setup”)

[cr08]

Looking good on my Android phone this morning, no issues connectivity-wise.

 

In fact, I got the charge complete notification which is the first time I've gotten that so far! No charge logs or anything I can find in the app just yet.

 

I can also confirm the Departure Times worked as expected. Set for 6:30 this morning and somewhere around 5:30-5:45 it started doing stuff, my EVSE power usage started and held at the expected ~1200w til shortly after 6:30 and the HVAC blower was clearly going.

Edited April 5, 2022 by cr08

[JTEX]

On 4/5/2022 at 6:32 AM, cr08 said:

Looking good on my Android phone this morning, no issues connectivity-wise.

 

In fact, I got the charge complete notification which is the first time I've gotten that so far! No charge logs or anything I can find in the app just yet.

 

I can also confirm the Departure Times worked as expected. Set for 6:30 this morning and somewhere around 5:30-5:45 it started doing stuff, my EVSE power usage started and held at the expected ~1200w til shortly after 6:30 and the HVAC blower was clearly going.

Good intel . . .thank you!  

 

On the FFE 4G forum another user is having the same issue so perhaps this is just backend issues for iOS users.

Edited April 5, 2022 by JTEX

[JTEX]

On 4/5/2022 at 7:03 AM, JTEX said:

Good intel . . .thank you!  

 

On the FFE 4G forum another user is having the same issue so perhaps this is just backend issues for iOS users.

May have nothing to do with the platform . . .I just checked and AT&T 4G cell service is down (checked with 3 mobile devices) in my area so at least for now it appears the root cause is my FFE not being able to make contact with the Fordpass backend.

Edited April 5, 2022 by JTEX

[GeR2]

bookemdano:

 

I followed your tutorial.  I'm at the point where I downloaded the Forscan app and activated it with the trial key.  So far so good.  I'm going to try pairing it with my OBD2 reader as you mentioned at the end of the tutorial.  In the meantime, please post the next few steps in order to view the "String" value responsible for the lock / unlock / start features.

 

Edit:

Ok, so I was able to pair my OBD2 reader with my laptop while connected to my Cmax.  Forscan picked it up just as you mentioned.

Edited April 5, 2022 by GeR2

[bookemdano]

On 4/5/2022 at 11:12 AM, GeR2 said:

bookemdano:

 

I followed your tutorial.  I'm at the point where I downloaded the Forscan app and activated it with the trial key.  So far so good.  I'm going to try pairing it with my OBD2 reader as you mentioned at the end of the tutorial.  In the meantime, please post the next few steps in order to view the "String" value responsible for the lock / unlock / start features.

 

Edit:

Ok, so I was able to pair my OBD2 reader with my laptop while connected to my Cmax.  Forscan picked it up just as you mentioned.

Great!

 

1. In Forscan, click on the top-most icon (the car with the yellow i), then click on the Connect button (see arrow: 

2. This will initiate the connection with the car. On the right side of the window, you should see various events in the log. It establishes the connection, identifies the VIN/make/model and then it enumerates (detects) every module it finds--should be around 30 in all, give or take. As part of this process it will also display any diagnostic trouble codes that are found.

3. Once it's done detecting all the modules (usually the last one is IPC - Instrument Panel Control Module), it will ask you if you want to save the corrent configuration as a profile. I suggest you do this--there's no downside and in some cases it can come in handy. As part of saving it there is a text box for you to name the profile--just accept the default name unless you really want to call it something different.

4. Now that the car is connected, you'll want to find and click on the icon that looks like a computer chip (6th one down from the top/third one from the bottom).

5. You'll see a long list on the right side (that unfortunately isn't sorted alphabetically). Look in the list for: TCU  Module configuration (AS BUILT format) and click on it.

6. Look near the bottom left corner of the window for the little play button in a circle--like this:   Click on it.

7. Forscan will pop up a scary warning that "Changing configuration is potentially not safe". Remember that at this stage we're not changing anything, so there is nothing to worry about. Click the OK button to acknowledge the warning.

8. Forscan will query the module and get each block of the as-built (programming)--should only take a couple of seconds. What you should end up with is a screen with a bunch of rows of alphanumeric strings in little boxes. 

9. The very first thing you should do as a best practice is save a backup copy of this information. That way you will always have the original configuration in case you need to refer back to it or even revert to it. The way to take a backup is to click on the "Save All" button, which is near the bottom of the screen. When you click it, a box will come up where you can choose where you want to save the backup file and what you want to call it. You can just keep the defaults and hit OK.

10. Take a picture with your smart phone (or a screenshot if you know that process in Windows) of the entire as-built data, which should start with the line: 754-01-01 and end with the line 754-05-02.

11. Since we're not making any changes at this point, go ahead and click the little stop button in a circle--like this: .

12. It's a good idea to go back to the top icon (car with a yellow i) and then click the little disconnect icon (right next to the connect button you clicked in step 1. You can then shut the car off and pull the OBD2 adapter off the OBD2 port.

13. Upload the pic or screenshot you took of your modem programming here, or you can PM it if you don't want to post it. 

 

That's it. Let me know if anything is unclear.

 

Edited April 5, 2022 by bookemdano

[JTEX]

After nearly 24 hours AT&T fixed their regional outage so my FFE is now working on Fordpass again.   Even the charge notification now works (that’s how I knew the FFE was back online: I received a charge notification).   

 

So the lesson is that if you have been successful updating your vehicle to 4G (so most Fordpass functions work for you including lock, unlock, start, charge scheduling, etc.) and suddenly the Fordpass interactive functions are no longer working then the first thing to check is to determine if your vehicle is for some reason no longer connected to the ATT 4G network.

 

your vehicle functions<->your vehicle’sTCU & antenna<->AT&T 4G network<->Ford’s Fordpass “servers”<->Fordpass app on your device

[rtmoeller]

On 3/29/2022 at 1:28 PM, mextreme said:

Anyone else have the their local Ford dealer put a hold on doing the upgrades ?

 

I ordered the part and was in process of scheduling appointment to get it installed (depending on price I might DIY).

Anyways - I was told Ford put a hold on dealers doing the upgrade - due to software issues.

Rep mentioned that the recent upgrades at local shop had issues.

No timeline for when they will continue the upgrades.

 

Note:  I was also told if you don't return the order or a core within 30 days - you will loose the $200 core charge no matter what.

My dealer ordered the part and has it on hand but will not install it as they have the part for my car as "do not install" due to software.. I have a 2016 for Cmax Energi. 

[cr08]

So far my EVSE power usage has been quiet. I had the spike from yesterday morning around 6AM with the Go Times I had set. Deleted those. Vehicle has been plugged in and sitting at a full charge since then and my power usage graph is relatively flat. There's small spikes of up to 30-50W or so that that seem to last for maybe half a minute. They seem to correlate to my manual app refreshes, but no longer seeing the full 1200w spikes as if the whole car woke up like what I noticed before. Not sure if the conditions just changed or if something Ford changed on their end. Just thought I'd add that small update.

Edited April 6, 2022 by cr08

[cr08]

On 4/6/2022 at 12:26 PM, rtmoeller said:

My dealer ordered the part and has it on hand but will not install it as they have the part for my car as "do not install" due to software.. I have a 2016 for Cmax Energi. 

 

Thanks for the extra info. So seems like POTENTIALLY something being enforced across all dealers and not an isolated incident.

 

Makes me curious exactly what software issues they're concerned about and if it's just the missing features those of us here are already seeing and Ford wants to make sure everything is 100% for those going through the official process. If that's the case, maybe there's hope that they're actively getting this all sorted out now.

[GeR2]

On 4/5/2022 at 11:41 AM, bookemdano said:

Great!

 

1. In Forscan, click on the top-most icon (the car with the yellow i), then click on the Connect button (see arrow: 

2. This will initiate the connection with the car. On the right side of the window, you should see various events in the log. It establishes the connection, identifies the VIN/make/model and then it enumerates (detects) every module it finds--should be around 30 in all, give or take. As part of this process it will also display any diagnostic trouble codes that are found.

3. Once it's done detecting all the modules (usually the last one is IPC - Instrument Panel Control Module), it will ask you if you want to save the corrent configuration as a profile. I suggest you do this--there's no downside and in some cases it can come in handy. As part of saving it there is a text box for you to name the profile--just accept the default name unless you really want to call it something different.

4. Now that the car is connected, you'll want to find and click on the icon that looks like a computer chip (6th one down from the top/third one from the bottom).

5. You'll see a long list on the right side (that unfortunately isn't sorted alphabetically). Look in the list for: TCU  Module configuration (AS BUILT format) and click on it.

6. Look near the bottom left corner of the window for the little play button in a circle--like this:   Click on it.

7. Forscan will pop up a scary warning that "Changing configuration is potentially not safe". Remember that at this stage we're not changing anything, so there is nothing to worry about. Click the OK button to acknowledge the warning.

8. Forscan will query the module and get each block of the as-built (programming)--should only take a couple of seconds. What you should end up with is a screen with a bunch of rows of alphanumeric strings in little boxes. 

9. The very first thing you should do as a best practice is save a backup copy of this information. That way you will always have the original configuration in case you need to refer back to it or even revert to it. The way to take a backup is to click on the "Save All" button, which is near the bottom of the screen. When you click it, a box will come up where you can choose where you want to save the backup file and what you want to call it. You can just keep the defaults and hit OK.

10. Take a picture with your smart phone (or a screenshot if you know that process in Windows) of the entire as-built data, which should start with the line: 754-01-01 and end with the line 754-05-02.

11. Since we're not making any changes at this point, go ahead and click the little stop button in a circle--like this: .

12. It's a good idea to go back to the top icon (car with a yellow i) and then click the little disconnect icon (right next to the connect button you clicked in step 1. You can then shut the car off and pull the OBD2 adapter off the OBD2 port.

13. Upload the pic or screenshot you took of your modem programming here, or you can PM it if you don't want to post it. 

 

That's it. Let me know if anything is unclear.

 

 

I decided to give it a try this morning.  But, before I did, I spoke with FordPass tech support yesterday.  They ran me through the activation procedure after removing the vehicle from the FordPass app and performing a reset on the Sync system.  Long story short, the problem persists.

 

I followed your tutorial.  Somewhere in the first few steps, Forscan showed a message indicating that my OBD2 scanner "detected not enough performance of the adapter used".  It goes on to say, "The adapter is NOT recommended for this car".  Prior to this, it asked the year of my vehicle, and it had two options 1999 and 2000 (as far as I can remember).  Eventually, it detected the correct  make and model.  It also showed a warning message that said "Demo mode is active.  Switch to real mode?"  I tried twice, selecting yes and no.  Continue reading below.

 

 

I allowed it to proceed.  On step 5, it showed the Module list.  I could not locate the "TCU Module configuration (AS BUILT format)".

 

 

I'm not sure what to make of this, but I'm guessing it has to do with the OBD2 scanner.  What do you think?  If it is the OBD2 scanner, would you be able to recommend one that I can buy?  Preferably under $50.

[cr08]

On 4/6/2022 at 3:25 PM, GeR2 said:

 

I decided to give it a try this morning.  But, before I did, I spoke with FordPass tech support yesterday.  They ran me through the activation procedure after removing the vehicle from the FordPass app and performing a reset on the Sync system.  Long story short, the problem persists.

 

I followed your tutorial.  Somewhere in the first few steps, Forscan showed a message indicating that my OBD2 scanner "detected not enough performance of the adapter used".  It goes on to say, "The adapter is NOT recommended for this car".  Prior to this, it asked the year of my vehicle, and it had two options 1999 and 2000 (as far as I can remember).  Eventually, it detected the correct  make and model.  It also showed a warning message that said "Demo mode is active.  Switch to real mode?"  I tried twice, selecting yes and no.  Continue reading below.

 

 

I allowed it to proceed.  On step 5, it showed the Module list.  I could not locate the "TCU Module configuration (AS BUILT format)".

 

 

I'm not sure what to make of this, but I'm guessing it has to do with the OBD2 scanner.  What do you think?  If it is the OBD2 scanner, would you be able to recommend one that I can buy?  Preferably under $50.

 

Something I think both @bookemdano and I forgot about and is likely the issue here: Stock non-Ford specific OBD adapters only speak with the HS-CAN bus in Ford vehicles. The TCU is on the I-CAN/MS-CAN bus.

 

You can look for other cheap OBD adapters and look for ones that can do Ford MS-CAN. Some have physical switches to flip between HS and MS and ForScan will let you know when to do so when it needs to. If you don't mind bumping your budget a small bit, the OBDLink EX is a highly recommended adapter and will automatically switch between HS and MS as needed. They sometimes go on sale but I think the normal pricing is $59.99. That said, the OBDLink EX is overkill unless you plan to get into module firmware updates. The cheap adapters are more than enough for basic AsBuilt and diagnostic stuff.

Edited April 6, 2022 by cr08

[bookemdano]

On 4/6/2022 at 2:52 PM, cr08 said:

 

Something I think both @bookemdano and I forgot about and is likely the issue here: Stock non-Ford specific OBD adapters only speak with the HS-CAN bus in Ford vehicles. The TCU is on the I-CAN/MS-CAN bus.

 

You can look for other cheap OBD adapters and look for ones that can do Ford MS-CAN. Some have physical switches to flip between HS and MS and ForScan will let you know when to do so when it needs to. If you don't mind bumping your budget a small bit, the OBDLink EX is a highly recommended adapter and will automatically switch between HS and MS as needed. They sometimes go on sale but I think the normal pricing is $59.99. That said, the OBDLink EX is overkill unless you plan to get into module firmware updates. The cheap adapters are more than enough for basic AsBuilt and diagnostic stuff.

 

Indeed--yep I completely forgot about that. Even before picking up my OBDLink EX I was using an MX+ which also auto-switches.

 

@oldbeyondmeasure For $20 you can get a USB ELM327 adapter that has a physical toggle switch on it for interacting with the HS-CAN or MS-CAN buses. That's the cheapest route to go and they are plentiful on amazon, ebay, etc. Here's one example, or you can just do a search for ELM327 USB MS-CAN to pull up a bunch of identical Chinesium with different labels and price points ?.

 

But I concur with @cr08 that if you're willing to pony up $60 then the OBDLink EX is well worth having, especially if you eventually decide to get even more adventurous with Forscan! ? As a bonus, Forscan won't show you the scary "not recommended" message since it's on their recommended list.

 

The demo mode message you saw is normal the first time you connect. I don't think it will come back up since you switched it to real mode, which is what you want.

 

Good job getting this far! Sorry I led you astray on the type of adapter needed. 

[GeR2]

To cr08 and bookemdano:

 

 

No worries.  I was careful to disconnect before removing the ODB2 scanner.  Suffice it to say, all is well.

 

What do you folks think about this :

 

eBAy: "forscan elm327 obd2 adapter compatible with f150 f250 code reader code reader"

 

It looks similar to the OBDLink EX FORScan OBD Adapter you mentioned.  In addition, The merchant is close to me, so delivery should be quick.  

[bookemdano]

On 4/6/2022 at 5:01 PM, GeR2 said:

To cr08 and bookemdano:

 

 

No worries.  I was careful to disconnect before removing the ODB2 scanner.  Suffice it to say, all is well.

 

What do you folks think about this :

 

eBAy: "forscan elm327 obd2 adapter compatible with f150 f250 code reader code reader"

 

It looks similar to the OBDLink EX FORScan OBD Adapter you mentioned.  In addition, The merchant is close to me, so delivery should be quick.  

 

Should be fine for reading (and writing if need be) asbuilt data. I probably wouldn't use it to flash firmware, but that's not something you're going to need to do for this anyway. 

[oldbeyondmeasure]

On 4/3/2022 at 4:52 PM, GeR2 said:

A quick update on my 2017 Cmax Energi SE...

 

(A quick background for those that haven't read my replies in this forum)

I brought my vehicle into a dealer earlier this year to upgrade the 3G modem to 4G.  After about two months, the Ford Pass app started to work.  It isn't fully functional yet, but seems to be slowly "getting there".

The "Vehicle" screen seems to be working fine.  Just a few moments ago I noticed something new.  Interesting that is only shows on my Apple iPad and not my Android devices.  The home screen shows a message at the bottom indicating that the car is on charge and gives the option to view "Details".  Here are the screen captures:

 

 

 

So, yes, the folks at Ford are working around the clock.  I'm still waiting for them to fix the problem I'm having as per lock / unlock / start from the Home screen.  They removed driving data and charging features that I'm waiting to re-appear.  As you guys gain accessibility with (previously) non-functioning features, please keep posting them here.  I'm interested to know where everyone else is on this situation, I'm sure others are too.

On my Android app, this charging message appeared for a couple of weeks in early March and then went away. Perhaps it will appear again after my car charges overnight. Maybe I should try reinstalling the app. 

 

Edit, 4/8/2022 evening: as @GeR2 reports below, the charging message has returned this evening. I don't know if the app did that on its own (probably the most likely reason) or if attempting to charge my car at a location away from home triggered something on Ford's end. (I thought the charger was on the network that I sometimes use, but it wasn't.) 

Edited April 9, 2022 by oldbeyondmeasure
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[GeR2]

On 4/6/2022 at 9:25 PM, bookemdano said:

 

Should be fine for reading (and writing if need be) asbuilt data. I probably wouldn't use it to flash firmware, but that's not something you're going to need to do for this anyway. 

 

I placed the order.  I'll let you folks know when it arrives.

[GeR2]

Update about a callback from FordPass Tech Support...

 

Surprisingly, I received a callback from FordPass tech support.  The (non-advanced guide) agent that I spoke with came to the conclusion that my modem's software needs updating as they are showing "Failure Response(s)".  Activating came back as an error.  I'm not exactly sure what to make of this, but I was told that I would have to go to a dealer so that they may update it.  What do you guys think?  Is this a firmware issue, or is it the 4 digit modem string issue that you folks mentioned?  If you were in my situation, what would you do?

 

Edit:

I just now noticed that some features are back on FordPass...

 

Charge Settings: "Setup Preferred Charge Times", "Battery Charge Logs"

Driving Data: Under My Journeys, "EV Data / My EV Driving Data".

Vehicle / Battery Charge Status is back on my Apple iPad.

Edited April 8, 2022 by GeR2
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[cr08]

Yeah. I had all those features start showing up today including having the little bar at the bottom showing an active charge session. Nothing yet in the EV driving data though.

 

As far as the modem issue, I'd say wait and see what we can find out through ForScan once you get the new OBD adapter. We can provide more immediate confirmation and advice on the whole situation.