JDBlue Posted April 2, 2022 Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 I just did the install today. Got a TCU from flvpmods, the official ford antennae the F150 guys are using, and a bingfu cable. Removal was pretty straightforward, thanks to the docs you all posted. I also had to "rock" the big side panel back and forth. Also broke the connector the light that was on that panel, so disconnect that first! I thought I was safe but when the panel finally gave, it broke from the tension on the cable. I also took the advice and used one of the battery cover bolts and drilled out the antennae before mounting it there. As a total novice, it took 2 hours with all the guides you've posted. Thanks! So far, on the android Fordpass app, it can see where my car is located, but nothing else is working yet. Lock unlock almost worked once, but the a door was ajar. The app told me which door it was, so clearly it is communicating with the car. Looking forward to seeing what functionality pops up in the app! Thanks for all the help so far! bookemdano 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cr08 Posted April 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 A bit off topic, but this thread seemed apt to ask this considering a number of you have access and are comfortable with using ForScan. Those of you who have 2016+ models, especially with the full front/rear parking sensor and parallel park assist features equipped, I wonder if I could bother you to post the PAM (Parking Aid Module) part #'s as well as calibration levels? Also interested if ForScan provides an AsBuilt config option for the PAM for you. I've been digging back into the parking stuff with the Sync 3 retrofit on my '13. One feature I've been trying to add is the 'overhead sensor' display (example image below) but potentially a roadblock I may be dealing with is ForScan is not providing an option to modify the PAM AsBuilt which may have options that need to be changed. So far the parallel parking feature seems to work, although it's very rare for me to have the opportunity to use it here. I've only ever been able to mess with it once since my retrofit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTEX Posted April 2, 2022 Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 On 4/2/2022 at 2:27 AM, cr08 said: A bit off topic, but this thread seemed apt to ask this considering a number of you have access and are comfortable with using ForScan. Those of you who have 2016+ models, especially with the full front/rear parking sensor and parallel park assist features equipped, I wonder if I could bother you to post the PAM (Parking Aid Module) part #'s as well as calibration levels? Also interested if ForScan provides an AsBuilt config option for the PAM for you. I've been digging back into the parking stuff with the Sync 3 retrofit on my '13. One feature I've been trying to add is the 'overhead sensor' display (example image below) but potentially a roadblock I may be dealing with is ForScan is not providing an option to modify the PAM AsBuilt which may have options that need to be changed. So far the parallel parking feature seems to work, although it's very rare for me to have the opportunity to use it here. I've only ever been able to mess with it once since my retrofit. Had that complete feature set in my 2015 Ford Fusion Hybrid Titanium, but alas not on my 2020 FFE even though it is a fully loaded “Titanium” . .. sadly just another example of the “de-contenting” of the 2020 FFE.. I mention this because perhaps someone on the Fusion Hybrid forum may be able to provide what you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldbeyondmeasure Posted April 2, 2022 Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 On 4/1/2022 at 6:04 PM, JDBlue said: I just did the install today. Got a TCU from flvpmods, the official ford antennae the F150 guys are using, and a bingfu cable. Removal was pretty straightforward, thanks to the docs you all posted. I also had to "rock" the big side panel back and forth. Also broke the connector the light that was on that panel, so disconnect that first! I thought I was safe but when the panel finally gave, it broke from the tension on the cable. I also took the advice and used one of the battery cover bolts and drilled out the antennae before mounting it there. As a total novice, it took 2 hours with all the guides you've posted. Thanks! So far, on the android Fordpass app, it can see where my car is located, but nothing else is working yet. Lock unlock almost worked once, but the a door was ajar. The app told me which door it was, so clearly it is communicating with the car. Looking forward to seeing what functionality pops up in the app! Thanks for all the help so far! For me the Android app has been inconsistent, or even regressing. I have a 2017 C-Max Energi Titanium with Sync 3 (v3.0.20204); some of what I observe may be due to the car that I have and its equipment. Unlike several others who post on this forum, I have not upgraded to Sync 3.4 via Cyanlabs. That probably plays into this as well. Here is how the app is currently working or not working for me: Home screen: Remote unlock, remote start, and remote lock all appear to work. There is a "My News" box with a "Find a dealer" button. For a while, a charging banner would appear when the car was charging, but I haven't seen that for a while. When charging is complete, messages are appearing in the message center in the account menu from the home screen. Vehicle screen: shows time since last updated, location, odometer, battery gauge, fuel gauge, vehicle status button, and scheduled start button. Vehicle screen, status submenu: shows tire pressure warning button and oil life button. These appear to be working. Vehicle screen, charging submenu: Some time ago, I was able to set value charging at home through charge setting button, but now that capability doesn't appear; only "Departure Times" appears. It reports my current departure times and has a button to add more. However, I only charge at home these days, which might be affecting what this submenu offers. The current state of the charging menu appears to generate the most current discussion in this topic. Vehicle screen, driving data submenu: Journeys button is present. However, I do not record journeys as I did not find the information helpful when I did. Service screen: I have not used this up to now. I just enabled vehicle health reports to be sent to me; I will have to see what comes from that. Map screen: shows the correct location of the car and my smartphone. I haven't used the other features here (fuel, charging, etc.). Hope this helps. JDBlue 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDBlue Posted April 2, 2022 Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 (edited) On 4/1/2022 at 6:04 PM, JDBlue said: I just did the install today. Got a TCU from flvpmods, the official ford antennae the F150 guys are using, and a bingfu cable. Removal was pretty straightforward, thanks to the docs you all posted. I also had to "rock" the big side panel back and forth. Also broke the connector the light that was on that panel, so disconnect that first! I thought I was safe but when the panel finally gave, it broke from the tension on the cable. I also took the advice and used one of the battery cover bolts and drilled out the antennae before mounting it there. As a total novice, it took 2 hours with all the guides you've posted. Thanks! So far, on the android Fordpass app, it can see where my car is located, but nothing else is working yet. Lock unlock almost worked once, but the a door was ajar. The app told me which door it was, so clearly it is communicating with the car. Looking forward to seeing what functionality pops up in the app! Thanks for all the help so far! I don't want to derail the thread, but somehow in doing this installation, a ton of stuff got screwed up on my car. Getting a bunch of DTCs now, and my interior lights do not work, the drivers side window controls do not work, and the front windshield wipers are not functioning properly. I removed the old TCU, the GM5T-14g087-ag module, replaced it with the H model that everyone is using. Followed the guide. I am guessing I somehow seriously screwed up something else in the car while doing this? I was crazy careful (except for accidentally ripping the wires from the light socket on the trim piece. Here are my DTCs, if anyone has any ideas. I have a 2014 with retrofit Sync 3 3.4 version. These were working fine before the TCU swap yesterday. ===BdyCM DTC B1390:87-2F=== Code: B1390 - Ambient Light Control Module Additional Fault Symptom: - Missing Message Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Body Control Module Freeze Frame #1: -EVENT_TIME: 239153492 s (Sat Nov 10 16:44:27 2035) - Event time -TOTAL_DISTANCE: 138090 km - Total Distance -MODULE_VOLTAGE: 14.3 V - Control Module Voltage -PWR_MODE_QF: Power Mode OK - Power Mode Quality Factor -PWR_MODE_KEY: Key Out - Power Mode Key State ===END BdyCM DTC B1390:87-2F=== ===BdyCM DTC B1287:11-6C=== Code: B1287 - Central Lock Switch Illumination Additional Fault Symptom: - Circuit Short To Ground Status: - DTC Maturing - Intermittent at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC - Test not complete Module: Body Control Module Freeze Frame #1: -EVENT_TIME: 239156052 s (Sat Nov 10 17:27:07 2035) - Event time -TOTAL_DISTANCE: 138090 km - Total Distance -MODULE_VOLTAGE: 12.8 V - Control Module Voltage -PWR_MODE_QF: Power Mode OK - Power Mode Quality Factor -PWR_MODE_KEY: Key Out - Power Mode Key State ===END BdyCM DTC B1287:11-6C=== ===BdyCM DTC B1D13:11-2F=== Code: B1D13 - Interior Lights Circuit A Additional Fault Symptom: - Circuit Short To Ground Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Body Control Module Freeze Frame #1: -EVENT_TIME: 239153989 s (Sat Nov 10 16:52:44 2035) - Event time -TOTAL_DISTANCE: 138090 km - Total Distance -MODULE_VOLTAGE: 14.3 V - Control Module Voltage -PWR_MODE_QF: Power Mode OK - Power Mode Quality Factor -PWR_MODE_KEY: Key Out - Power Mode Key State ===END BdyCM DTC B1D13:11-2F=== ===GWM DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Gateway Module A ===END GWM DTC None=== ===DACMC DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Digital Audio Control Module C ===END DACMC DTC None=== ===FCIM DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Front Controls Interface Module ===END FCIM DTC None=== ===TCU DTC U0100:00-08=== Code: U0100 - Lost Communication With ECM/PCM A Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Telematic Control Unit Module ===END TCU DTC U0100:00-08=== ===TCU DTC U0140:00-0A=== Code: U0140 - Lost Communication With Body Control Module Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Telematic Control Unit Module ===END TCU DTC U0140:00-0A=== ===TCU DTC U2101:00-08=== Code: U2101 - Control Module Configuration Incompatible Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Telematic Control Unit Module ===END TCU DTC U2101:00-08=== ===TCU DTC B1246:13-08=== Code: B1246 - GSM (Group System for Mobile) Antenna Additional Fault Symptom: - Circuit Open Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Telematic Control Unit Module ===END TCU DTC B1246:13-08=== ===PDM DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Passengers Door Control Unit ===END PDM DTC None=== ===DDM DTC U2013:87-2F=== Code: U2013 - Switch Pack Additional Fault Symptom: - Missing Message Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Drivers Door Module Freeze Frame #1: -EVENT_TIME: 239163603 s (Sat Nov 10 19:32:59 2035) - Event time -TOTAL_DISTANCE: 138090 km - Total Distance -MODULE_VOLTAGE: 13.0 V - Control Module Voltage -INCAR_TEMPERATURE: 124 °C - In car temperature -OUTDOOR_TEMPERATURE: 16 °C - Outside temperature -POWER_MODE: error - Power Mode Status ===END DDM DTC U2013:87-2F=== Edited April 2, 2022 by JDBlue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cr08 Posted April 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 On 4/2/2022 at 8:01 AM, JTEX said: Had that complete feature set in my 2015 Ford Fusion Hybrid Titanium, but alas not on my 2020 FFE even though it is a fully loaded “Titanium” . .. sadly just another example of the “de-contenting” of the 2020 FFE.. I mention this because perhaps someone on the Fusion Hybrid forum may be able to provide what you need. Only gotcha with that and why I have avoided inquiring people with other Ford models is with the C-Max being Focus based, it uses a 'Central Configuration' system vs AsBuilt modifications for some modules. Basically the BCM has a Central Configuration page to adjust various parameters and it disseminates these to other modules in the vehicle that need them. My best guess is this is why my PAM doesn't have an AsBuilt config which seems like it may be key to getting everything properly functioning with the Sync 3 retrofit. To the best of my knowledge, none of this applies to the Fusion and you guys can just modify the PAM AsBuilt normally and be good to go. Hence why I'm reaching out to 2016+ C-Max owners here. Those came from the factory with Sync 3 and will give me a much better idea how theirs are configured in this area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cr08 Posted April 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 (edited) On 4/2/2022 at 1:40 PM, JDBlue said: I don't want to derail the thread, but somehow in doing this installation, a ton of stuff got screwed up on my car. Getting a bunch of DTCs now, and my interior lights do not work, the drivers side window controls do not work, and the front windshield wipers are not functioning properly. I removed the old TCU, the GM5T-14g087-ag module, replaced it with the H model that everyone is using. Followed the guide. I am guessing I somehow seriously screwed up something else in the car while doing this? I was crazy careful (except for accidentally ripping the wires from the light socket on the trim piece. Here are my DTCs, if anyone has any ideas. I have a 2014 with retrofit Sync 3 3.4 version. These were working fine before the TCU swap yesterday. ===BdyCM DTC B1390:87-2F=== Code: B1390 - Ambient Light Control Module Additional Fault Symptom: - Missing Message Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Body Control Module Freeze Frame #1: -EVENT_TIME: 239153492 s (Sat Nov 10 16:44:27 2035) - Event time -TOTAL_DISTANCE: 138090 km - Total Distance -MODULE_VOLTAGE: 14.3 V - Control Module Voltage -PWR_MODE_QF: Power Mode OK - Power Mode Quality Factor -PWR_MODE_KEY: Key Out - Power Mode Key State ===END BdyCM DTC B1390:87-2F=== ===BdyCM DTC B1287:11-6C=== Code: B1287 - Central Lock Switch Illumination Additional Fault Symptom: - Circuit Short To Ground Status: - DTC Maturing - Intermittent at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC - Test not complete Module: Body Control Module Freeze Frame #1: -EVENT_TIME: 239156052 s (Sat Nov 10 17:27:07 2035) - Event time -TOTAL_DISTANCE: 138090 km - Total Distance -MODULE_VOLTAGE: 12.8 V - Control Module Voltage -PWR_MODE_QF: Power Mode OK - Power Mode Quality Factor -PWR_MODE_KEY: Key Out - Power Mode Key State ===END BdyCM DTC B1287:11-6C=== ===BdyCM DTC B1D13:11-2F=== Code: B1D13 - Interior Lights Circuit A Additional Fault Symptom: - Circuit Short To Ground Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Body Control Module Freeze Frame #1: -EVENT_TIME: 239153989 s (Sat Nov 10 16:52:44 2035) - Event time -TOTAL_DISTANCE: 138090 km - Total Distance -MODULE_VOLTAGE: 14.3 V - Control Module Voltage -PWR_MODE_QF: Power Mode OK - Power Mode Quality Factor -PWR_MODE_KEY: Key Out - Power Mode Key State ===END BdyCM DTC B1D13:11-2F=== ===GWM DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Gateway Module A ===END GWM DTC None=== ===DACMC DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Digital Audio Control Module C ===END DACMC DTC None=== ===FCIM DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Front Controls Interface Module ===END FCIM DTC None=== ===TCU DTC U0100:00-08=== Code: U0100 - Lost Communication With ECM/PCM A Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Telematic Control Unit Module ===END TCU DTC U0100:00-08=== ===TCU DTC U0140:00-0A=== Code: U0140 - Lost Communication With Body Control Module Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Telematic Control Unit Module ===END TCU DTC U0140:00-0A=== ===TCU DTC U2101:00-08=== Code: U2101 - Control Module Configuration Incompatible Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Telematic Control Unit Module ===END TCU DTC U2101:00-08=== ===TCU DTC B1246:13-08=== Code: B1246 - GSM (Group System for Mobile) Antenna Additional Fault Symptom: - Circuit Open Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Telematic Control Unit Module ===END TCU DTC B1246:13-08=== ===PDM DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Passengers Door Control Unit ===END PDM DTC None=== ===DDM DTC U2013:87-2F=== Code: U2013 - Switch Pack Additional Fault Symptom: - Missing Message Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Drivers Door Module Freeze Frame #1: -EVENT_TIME: 239163603 s (Sat Nov 10 19:32:59 2035) - Event time -TOTAL_DISTANCE: 138090 km - Total Distance -MODULE_VOLTAGE: 13.0 V - Control Module Voltage -INCAR_TEMPERATURE: 124 °C - In car temperature -OUTDOOR_TEMPERATURE: 16 °C - Outside temperature -POWER_MODE: error - Power Mode Status ===END DDM DTC U2013:87-2F=== Very strange. Communication errors and some lighting circuit errors. A few things I'd try: Try clearing the DTCs and see what returns. Maybe for good measure try disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and see what changes. Go back in and double check the wiring and harnesses where you were working (the harness under the driver side rear door may be a very good one to check) and verify no wires are pinched or cut. What did you do with the pulled wires on the rear lamp? If you left them as is or taped them off, I'd see if you can try to repair it. It could potentially be freaking out the BCM and causing erroneous codes. Last ditch effort: Temporarily return the old G TCU and see what changes there. If things return to normal, there may be some fault or incorrect programming on the new TCU? Just a hunch here. If reinstalling the old one works, I'd reach back out to flvpmods since they would have done all the setup and programming work ahead of time for you for the new TCU. Also, during any of these steps, it may be worth clearing out any visible DTCs and re-reading them. Various modules can be unhappy when messing around and throw DTCs that can stick around even after the initial cause is resolved. Those that are still active will, of course, stick around after. I may recommend doing the DTC read step a couple times to make sure you pick up everything. I know the antenna circuit code on the TCU on mine if I clear DTCs and re-read, it doesn't pop up immediately but maybe 10-15 seconds later if I re-read it shows. Just an FYI. Edited April 2, 2022 by cr08 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cr08 Posted April 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 (edited) On 4/2/2022 at 10:35 AM, oldbeyondmeasure said: For me the Android app has been inconsistent, or even regressing. I have a 2017 C-Max Energi Titanium with Sync 3 (v3.0.20204); some of what I observe may be due to the car that I have and its equipment. Unlike several others who post on this forum, I have not upgraded to Sync 3.4 via Cyanlabs. That probably plays into this as well. Here is how the app is currently working or not working for me: Home screen: Remote unlock, remote start, and remote lock all appear to work. There is a "My News" box with a "Find a dealer" button. For a while, a charging banner would appear when the car was charging, but I haven't seen that for a while. When charging is complete, messages are appearing in the message center in the account menu from the home screen. Vehicle screen: shows time since last updated, location, odometer, battery gauge, fuel gauge, vehicle status button, and scheduled start button. Vehicle screen, status submenu: shows tire pressure warning button and oil life button. These appear to be working. Vehicle screen, charging submenu: Some time ago, I was able to set value charging at home through charge setting button, but now that capability doesn't appear; only "Departure Times" appears. It reports my current departure times and has a button to add more. However, I only charge at home these days, which might be affecting what this submenu offers. The current state of the charging menu appears to generate the most current discussion in this topic. Vehicle screen, driving data submenu: Journeys button is present. However, I do not record journeys as I did not find the information helpful when I did. Service screen: I have not used this up to now. I just enabled vehicle health reports to be sent to me; I will have to see what comes from that. Map screen: shows the correct location of the car and my smartphone. I haven't used the other features here (fuel, charging, etc.). Hope this helps. This is 100% where mine is at as well. I just went through and compared notes on what I see with my app vs what you mentioned here and it's all identical. The assumption so far from multiple people is it is all on Ford's end and they still need to get FordPass fully functioning with these new features for us ( @bookemdano and I had a brief discussion on this stuff with F150chief over on the CyanLabs boards and that seems to be his thoughts as well. Did get some new and useful info on that front which I'll post below.). So it's largely a waiting game. Once again thanks goes out to F150chief over at CyanLabs for providing some more useful knowledge concerning these TCU's and the AsBuilt configs. You can read the whole thread as it is currently here: TCU HJ5T Asbuilt Discussion - Ford / AsBuilt Configuration - CyanLabs Official Community We had originally assumed the 754-03-xx blocks were just garbage or storage bits. But apparently these are additional configuration options to tell the TCU what various bits of data to pull from the vehicle and send back to Ford. 7D indicates the data should be pulled and sent back. 7C ignores that bit of data. Unfortunately there's no insight to what each individual bit corresponds to. Based on the discussion, it seems like it is harmless just to set everything to 7D to enable ALL THE THINGS and send it to Ford. It is still then up to them to populate and display this data on their end in the app. I have went ahead on mine and did just this and enabled all those bits. No new data just yet but as always I'll keep you posted if anything changes on this front. Just as a quick FYI on the AsBuilt stuff that I've briefly mentioned here previously: With ForScan, the last two bits in each individual block are checksum bits. So in the case of these changes to the 754-03-xx blocks, they won't show or even be able to be set to 7D. You can enter anything in these bits and ForScan will just recalculate what should be there when you go to write it to the module. Edited April 2, 2022 by cr08 JTEX 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bookemdano Posted April 2, 2022 Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 On 4/2/2022 at 1:27 PM, cr08 said: Very strange. Communication errors and some lighting circuit errors. A few things I'd try: Try clearing the DTCs and see what returns. Maybe for good measure try disconnecting and reconnecting the battery and see what changes. Go back in and double check the wiring and harnesses where you were working (the harness under the driver side rear door may be a very good one to check) and verify no wires are pinched or cut. What did you do with the pulled wires on the rear lamp? If you left them as is or taped them off, I'd see if you can try to repair it. It could potentially be freaking out the BCM and causing erroneous codes. Last ditch effort: Temporarily return the old G TCU and see what changes there. If things return to normal, there may be some fault or incorrect programming on the new TCU? Just a hunch here. If reinstalling the old one works, I'd reach back out to flvpmods since they would have done all the setup and programming work ahead of time for you for the new TCU. Also, during any of these steps, it may be worth clearing out any visible DTCs and re-reading them. Various modules can be unhappy when messing around and throw DTCs that can stick around even after the initial cause is resolved. Those that are still active will, of course, stick around after. I may recommend doing the DTC read step a couple times to make sure you pick up everything. I know the antenna circuit code on the TCU on mine if I clear DTCs and re-read, it doesn't pop up immediately but maybe 10-15 seconds later if I re-read it shows. Just an FYI. This is all sound advice. If it were me, I would start with swapping back in the old TCU, since that's the most recent change that was made. So completely disconnect the new TCU, reconnect the old TCU and then go in with Forscan and clear the DTC memory. You should know pretty quick if all/some of the DTCs come back. If they come back (and the car still isn't functioning properly) then you know the TCU itself isn't the issue. You can then work on the other stuff @cr08 pointed out (fixing the bulb, checking that you didn't crimp or abrade any wires when doing the swap or removing that !@$%^ side panel, etc.) Good luck! Keep us posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bookemdano Posted April 2, 2022 Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 On 4/2/2022 at 1:41 PM, cr08 said: This is 100% where mine is at as well. I just went through and compared notes on what I see with my app vs what you mentioned here and it's all identical. The assumption so far from multiple people is it is all on Ford's end and they still need to get FordPass fully functioning with these new features for us ( @bookemdano and I had a brief discussion on this stuff with F150chief over on the CyanLabs boards and that seems to be his thoughts as well. Did get some new and useful info on that front which I'll post below.). So it's largely a waiting game. Once again thanks goes out to F150chief over at CyanLabs for providing some more useful knowledge concerning these TCU's and the AsBuilt configs. You can read the whole thread as it is currently here: TCU HJ5T Asbuilt Discussion - Ford / AsBuilt Configuration - CyanLabs Official Community We had originally assumed the 754-03-xx blocks were just garbage or storage bits. But apparently these are additional configuration options to tell the TCU what various bits of data to pull from the vehicle and send back to Ford. 7D indicates the data should be pulled and sent back. 7C ignores that bit of data. Unfortunately there's no insight to what each individual bit corresponds to. Based on the discussion, it seems like it is harmless just to set everything to 7D to enable ALL THE THINGS and send it to Ford. It is still then up to them to populate and display this data on their end in the app. I have went ahead on mine and did just this and enabled all those bits. No new data just yet but as always I'll keep you posted if anything changes on this front. Just as a quick FYI on the AsBuilt stuff that I've briefly mentioned here previously: With ForScan, the last two bits in each individual block are checksum bits. So in the case of these changes to the 754-03-xx blocks, they won't show or even be able to be set to 7D. You can enter anything in these bits and ForScan will just recalculate what should be there when you go to write it to the module. Yeah, asbuilt code is still pretty mysterious to me. Always interesting to learn from folks who know a lot more about how it all fits together. @oldbeyondmeasure likely already has 7D for all those bits, since I copied his asbuilt in total when programming mine (figuring that his is configured exactly how Ford intended for the C-Max). Still, this is good info to have posted here for future reference, as I'm sure we'll have other folks working on DIY TCU swaps in the future. Great job summarizing it! JTEX 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bookemdano Posted April 2, 2022 Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 On 4/2/2022 at 2:27 AM, cr08 said: A bit off topic, but this thread seemed apt to ask this considering a number of you have access and are comfortable with using ForScan. Those of you who have 2016+ models, especially with the full front/rear parking sensor and parallel park assist features equipped, I wonder if I could bother you to post the PAM (Parking Aid Module) part #'s as well as calibration levels? Also interested if ForScan provides an AsBuilt config option for the PAM for you. I've been digging back into the parking stuff with the Sync 3 retrofit on my '13. One feature I've been trying to add is the 'overhead sensor' display (example image below) but potentially a roadblock I may be dealing with is ForScan is not providing an option to modify the PAM AsBuilt which may have options that need to be changed. So far the parallel parking feature seems to work, although it's very rare for me to have the opportunity to use it here. I've only ever been able to mess with it once since my retrofit. It would be super cool to get that overlay if we can. I have a 2017 C-Max Energi Titanium (so it has the auto park, blis and rear cross traffic alerts). PAM - Parking Aid Module: Part number: CJ5T-15K866-BH Calibration level: CJ5T-15K866-BH Strategy: CJ5T-14C090-BH Calibration: CJ5T-14C091-BJ I also do not show an option to edit the asbuilt for the PAM module. The only option that shows up for it is firmware upgrade. cr08 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Tucker4 Posted April 2, 2022 Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 On 4/2/2022 at 3:37 PM, bookemdano said: It would be super cool to get that overlay if we can. I have a 2017 C-Max Energi Titanium (so it has the auto park, blis and rear cross traffic alerts). PAM - Parking Aid Module: Part number: CJ5T-15K866-BH Calibration level: CJ5T-15K866-BH Strategy: CJ5T-14C090-BH Calibration: CJ5T-14C091-BJ I also do not show an option to edit the asbuilt for the PAM module. The only option that shows up for it is firmware upgrade. I have this enabled on my 2014 C-MAX. I only have rear parking sensors. It required changes to as-built data in two places in the APIM (first change enables the overhead view of the little car onscreen, the second shows the graphical rear sensor levels when in reverse): 7D0-01-01 xBxx xxxx xxxx - changed 2nd digit to "B" 7D0-02-02 x3xx xxxx xxxx - changed 2nd digit to "3" My wife has the car with her until mid next week or I would take a photo. cr08 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cr08 Posted April 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 (edited) On 4/2/2022 at 4:22 PM, David_Tucker4 said: I have this enabled on my 2014 C-MAX. I only have rear parking sensors. It required changes to as-built data in two places in the APIM (first change enables the overhead view of the little car onscreen, the second shows the graphical rear sensor levels when in reverse): 7D0-01-01 xBxx xxxx xxxx - changed 2nd digit to "B" 7D0-02-02 x3xx xxxx xxxx - changed 2nd digit to "3" My wife has the car with her until mid next week or I would take a photo. Interesting! Strange thing is that I've been messing with these for a while and they haven't made a difference. I have had the sensor 'blocks' on the rear view camera since the beginning without issue. Just no overhead car display. In addition to these, I have had the following set: 7D0-02-02: xxxx-1xxx-xxxx 7D0-04-02 xx03-xx (I did have this set to 08 at one point while trying to sort this out, though this will be different for yours only having the rear sensors) Similarly in the BCM I have this set, but it will obviously vary with your feature set: I've refreshed everything so will do a few drive cycles and see what happens. Edited April 2, 2022 by cr08 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTEX Posted April 2, 2022 Report Share Posted April 2, 2022 On 4/2/2022 at 1:41 PM, cr08 said: This is 100% where mine is at as well. I just went through and compared notes on what I see with my app vs what you mentioned here and it's all identical. The assumption so far from multiple people is it is all on Ford's end and they still need to get FordPass fully functioning with these new features for us ( @bookemdano and I had a brief discussion on this stuff with F150chief over on the CyanLabs boards and that seems to be his thoughts as well. Did get some new and useful info on that front which I'll post below.). So it's largely a waiting game. Once again thanks goes out to F150chief over at CyanLabs for providing some more useful knowledge concerning these TCU's and the AsBuilt configs. You can read the whole thread as it is currently here: TCU HJ5T Asbuilt Discussion - Ford / AsBuilt Configuration - CyanLabs Official Community We had originally assumed the 754-03-xx blocks were just garbage or storage bits. But apparently these are additional configuration options to tell the TCU what various bits of data to pull from the vehicle and send back to Ford. 7D indicates the data should be pulled and sent back. 7C ignores that bit of data. Unfortunately there's no insight to what each individual bit corresponds to. Based on the discussion, it seems like it is harmless just to set everything to 7D to enable ALL THE THINGS and send it to Ford. It is still then up to them to populate and display this data on their end in the app. I have went ahead on mine and did just this and enabled all those bits. No new data just yet but as always I'll keep you posted if anything changes on this front. Just as a quick FYI on the AsBuilt stuff that I've briefly mentioned here previously: With ForScan, the last two bits in each individual block are checksum bits. So in the case of these changes to the 754-03-xx blocks, they won't show or even be able to be set to 7D. You can enter anything in these bits and ForScan will just recalculate what should be there when you go to write it to the module. i can now confirm those other blocks make a major difference as after just changing on my 2020 FFE to the identical blocks of ALL of the TCU blocks as shared from that was done by a Ford dealer I now have ability to set “Preferred Charge Times” (formerly called “Value Charge in MFM and still in SYNC). So every bit matters ? Charge level notification is yet to work, but the banner now at the bottom seems sufficient. Note after making these changes to the TCU, I reset the TCU & and the APIM. Then I did a SYNC reset. So now all good so far on my FFE as long as the 12V battery issue doesn’t come up again. cr08 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDBlue Posted April 3, 2022 Report Share Posted April 3, 2022 On 4/2/2022 at 12:21 PM, bookemdano said: This is all sound advice. If it were me, I would start with swapping back in the old TCU, since that's the most recent change that was made. So completely disconnect the new TCU, reconnect the old TCU and then go in with Forscan and clear the DTC memory. You should know pretty quick if all/some of the DTCs come back. If they come back (and the car still isn't functioning properly) then you know the TCU itself isn't the issue. You can then work on the other stuff @cr08 pointed out (fixing the bulb, checking that you didn't crimp or abrade any wires when doing the swap or removing that !@$%^ side panel, etc.) Good luck! Keep us posted. Thanks to you and cr08, most of the issues are resolved. I did everything you all suggested, and spent a few hours going over the car looking for anything I might have screwed up. Disconnected battery even. In the end it was a fuse. So I reconnected the new TCU, and just going to leave the car disassembled for a while until I start putting it back together again. Then I will tackle these last few things few DTCs that are APIM and TCU related. Thanks again! cr08 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David_Tucker4 Posted April 3, 2022 Report Share Posted April 3, 2022 On 4/2/2022 at 5:25 PM, cr08 said: Interesting! Strange thing is that I've been messing with these for a while and they haven't made a difference. I have had the sensor 'blocks' on the rear view camera since the beginning without issue. Just no overhead car display. In addition to these, I have had the following set: 7D0-02-02: xxxx-1xxx-xxxx 7D0-04-02 xx03-xx (I did have this set to 08 at one point while trying to sort this out, though this will be different for yours only having the rear sensors) Similarly in the BCM I have this set, but it will obviously vary with your feature set: I've refreshed everything so will do a few drive cycles and see what happens. I can't speak to the settings for auto park assist since I don't have it. But the 5th digit in 7D0-02-02 is a "1" for Sync2, and a "B" for Sync3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cr08 Posted April 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2022 (edited) On 4/2/2022 at 8:40 PM, David_Tucker4 said: I can't speak to the settings for auto park assist since I don't have it. But the 5th digit in 7D0-02-02 is a "1" for Sync2, and a "B" for Sync3. Holy crap... That did it. That C1MCA threw me given I know this is a CGEA vehicle. Thanks for that! Will definitely be adding this to my notes. I'm still planning on trying to get a rundown of features that can be enabled on these vehicles with simple software tweaks such as this one. Edited April 3, 2022 by cr08 David_Tucker4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cr08 Posted April 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2022 On 4/2/2022 at 8:06 PM, JDBlue said: Thanks to you and cr08, most of the issues are resolved. I did everything you all suggested, and spent a few hours going over the car looking for anything I might have screwed up. Disconnected battery even. In the end it was a fuse. So I reconnected the new TCU, and just going to leave the car disassembled for a while until I start putting it back together again. Then I will tackle these last few things few DTCs that are APIM and TCU related. Thanks again! Awesome to hear. Glad it was something simple. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bookemdano Posted April 3, 2022 Report Share Posted April 3, 2022 (edited) Awesome! Will definitely work on getting the parking overlay enabled. I haven't done a whole lot of asbuilt tweaks, but the two that have been most useful to me: Adding global close (automatically closing all windows by holding the lock button on the fob for 5 seconds). Of course we already had global open from the factory, but this is a lot more useful as it avoids the need to get back in and start the car just to roll up a window that was left down. Disabling the SUPER-annoying double honk when trying to exit the car with the key while it's running. I understand why it's good to notify the driver in a situation like that, but Ford should have used a beep or something more subtle--honking the horn is obnoxious. I've felt the need to apologize numerous times to people that I wasn't intending to honk at them. Pretty much the only other change I made recently was removing Sirius from the sources list. I don't subscribe and never intend to, so it's nice to not have to see it when cycling through audio sources. It would be great to get a spreadsheet of *working* asbuilt tweaks for the C-max. There are some very comprehensive ones out there for other Ford models but a lot of the tweaks won't work for our cars. Edit: Got the parking overlay working per the asbuilt changes posted by @cr08 and @David_Tucker4. Just experimented pulling into and back out of my garage and seems to work great. Cool! Edit 2: After some weirdness last week (only successfully synced 1 out of 10+ times I tried), I was able to sync two charging locations to the car from FordPass this morning with zero issues. Edited April 3, 2022 by bookemdano JDBlue and cr08 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTEX Posted April 3, 2022 Report Share Posted April 3, 2022 (edited) On 4/2/2022 at 4:41 PM, JTEX said: i can now confirm those other blocks make a major difference as after just changing on my 2020 FFE to the identical blocks of ALL of the TCU blocks as shared from that was done by a Ford dealer I now have ability to set “Preferred Charge Times” (formerly called “Value Charge in MFM and still in SYNC). So every bit matters ? Charge level notification is yet to work, but the banner now at the bottom seems sufficient. Note after making these changes to the TCU, I reset the TCU & and the APIM. Then I did a SYNC reset. So now all good so far on my FFE as long as the 12V battery issue doesn’t come up again. I did not want to edit the above since it is all correct, BUT I learned the “preferred charge times” may be a bit buggy on the back end. BACKGROUND: A key “ahah!” when I got this to work after fixing all those other blocks was that finally my home location appeared in previous locations so I was finally able to make the settings (name my location, pick two sets of times, etc.). Once that was done it did supersede the ValueCharge settings in Sync (i know this because in SYNC I set the start time to 12:01am whereas in the app it does not allow minutes so 12:00am). BUG APPEARS: Later on I decided I wanted to change the second of the two preferred charge times, but it will not allow one to edit. So I figured I would delete the location and start over. Big mistake as then I could not get the location to return. So next step was to figure out how I can prompt the system to get that location to return. SOLUTION: It is a bit wonky from a user experience perspective, but if you have lost your preferred charge location to get it to return you must complete a charge now (seemed obvious so I had already done that), BUT additionally disconnect from the EV charger, start the car, drive a foot forward and back, turn off car. The location will now appear and you can redo your preferred charge settings and also toggle between a preferred time and charge now just like with MFM. BTW: Charge logs now works too. Edited April 3, 2022 by JTEX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeR2 Posted April 3, 2022 Report Share Posted April 3, 2022 (edited) A quick update on my 2017 Cmax Energi SE... (A quick background for those that haven't read my replies in this forum) I brought my vehicle into a dealer earlier this year to upgrade the 3G modem to 4G. After about two months, the Ford Pass app started to work. It isn't fully functional yet, but seems to be slowly "getting there". The "Vehicle" screen seems to be working fine. Just a few moments ago I noticed something new. Interesting that is only shows on my Apple iPad and not my Android devices. The home screen shows a message at the bottom indicating that the car is on charge and gives the option to view "Details". Here are the screen captures: So, yes, the folks at Ford are working around the clock. I'm still waiting for them to fix the problem I'm having as per lock / unlock / start from the Home screen. They removed driving data and charging features that I'm waiting to re-appear. As you guys gain accessibility with (previously) non-functioning features, please keep posting them here. I'm interested to know where everyone else is on this situation, I'm sure others are too. Edited April 3, 2022 by GeR2 Image Correction cr08 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bookemdano Posted April 4, 2022 Report Share Posted April 4, 2022 On 4/3/2022 at 6:52 PM, GeR2 said: A quick update on my 2017 Cmax Energi SE... (A quick background for those that haven't read my replies in this forum) I brought my vehicle into a dealer earlier this year to upgrade the 3G modem to 4G. After about two months, the Ford Pass app started to work. It isn't fully functional yet, but seems to be slowly "getting there". The "Vehicle" screen seems to be working fine. Just a few moments ago I noticed something new. Interesting that is only shows on my Apple iPad and not my Android devices. The home screen shows a message at the bottom indicating that the car is on charge and gives the option to view "Details". Here are the screen captures: So, yes, the folks at Ford are working around the clock. I'm still waiting for them to fix the problem I'm having as per lock / unlock / start from the Home screen. They removed driving data and charging features that I'm waiting to re-appear. As you guys gain accessibility with (previously) non-functioning features, please keep posting them here. I'm interested to know where everyone else is on this situation, I'm sure others are too. Your lock/unlock/remote start buttons aren't working at all? If that's the case then I strongly suspect that the Ford dealer did not program your modem correctly. Specifically the 754-01-01 block in your modem's as-built is probably set to an incorrect value. While it's true that some features in FordPass are still a work-in-progress, and sometimes it takes several days for data from your car to show up, the remote control functions usually work right away once the car is successfully authorized. If they're not working after all this time then I believe the module doesn't have the right programming. You may want to return to the Ford dealer who installed the modem and make them re-program it for you. If you don't want to do that and are willing to pick up an OBD2 bluetooth or USB adapter (plus have a Windows laptop at your disposal) I'd be happy to walk you through how to check that value and correct it if necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeR2 Posted April 4, 2022 Report Share Posted April 4, 2022 On 4/3/2022 at 6:40 PM, bookemdano said: Your lock/unlock/remote start buttons aren't working at all? If that's the case then I strongly suspect that the Ford dealer did not program your modem correctly. Specifically the 754-01-01 block in your modem's as-built is probably set to an incorrect value. While it's true that some features in FordPass are still a work-in-progress, and sometimes it takes several days for data from your car to show up, the remote control functions usually work right away once the car is successfully authorized. If they're not working after all this time then I believe the module doesn't have the right programming. You may want to return to the Ford dealer who installed the modem and make them re-program it for you. If you don't want to do that and are willing to pick up an OBD2 bluetooth or USB adapter (plus have a Windows laptop at your disposal) I'd be happy to walk you through how to check that value and correct it if necessary. I'm hesitant to modify the settings on my own. I'm going to call FordPass tech support and ask for their opinion. If it is a programming issue, then I will call my dealer. Out of curiosity, is it as simple as changing a single value in the modem's software? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bookemdano Posted April 4, 2022 Report Share Posted April 4, 2022 On 4/3/2022 at 10:35 PM, GeR2 said: I'm hesitant to modify the settings on my own. I'm going to call FordPass tech support and ask for their opinion. If it is a programming issue, then I will call my dealer. Out of curiosity, is it as simple as changing a single value in the modem's software? Most likely, yes. The string I mentioned before amounts to a four digit number that tells the modem what kind of vehicle it's hooked up to. For our vehicles it should be set to B842. The B means it's Sync3 (versus the older sync2 system), the 8 means it's a plug-in hybrid and the 42 indicates it's in North America and communicates using CGEA 1.2 parameters (basically what "language" it speaks). @David_Tucker4actually determined the correct values for that string several months ago by trial and error, before we even knew what the official Ford programming was (@oldbeyondmeasure confirmed the official programming for us in this thread a couple of weeks ago). David found that without the correct values in that string, the remote functions would either work partially or not at all. So that's why I think it's possible that Ford didn't program the correct string into your modem. If you contact Ford (either the FordPass people or your dealership), they likely would not understand the problem/solution framed that way though, as I don't think they really ever get into the nitty-gritty of changing specific values in the programming. They just use their IDS computer system to apply the proper programming to each module in the car. So for them they wouldn't be looking at that B842 string. They'd just be connecting the car up to their system and telling it to program the modem. So yeah if you approach Ford about this then you should just mention that since the remote functions aren't working you want them to re-program the module. They should understand that request. I understand your trepidation about trying to do it yourself, and no worries if it's not something you feel comfortable with. After all, since you paid Ford for the modem it's really their job to fix it. But I wanted to mention it to you, because unlike some of the other nonfunctional stuff in FordPass, I don't believe the remote start/lock/unlock features will just start working on their own if they haven't worked at all since you had the modem installed. So I think you'll need to insist that they reprogram the modem at the dealership. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cr08 Posted April 4, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2022 One additional piece of info discovered regarding the TCU AsBuilt stuff, specifically those 754-03-xx blocks: 754-03-06: ****-xxxx-xxxx This is unique from the others in that it specifies some form of HEV/Hybrid data update/polling frequency. It appears to be in either seconds or minutes? The default that others have seen with their official upgrades (per their AsBuilt's already documented in this thread) is 0078 which is 120 (sec/mins). 7D7D would put this up to like 31000 or so. Also a new AsBuilt DB for these H TCU's has been posted over on the CyanLabs site: TCU-H Database - CyanLabs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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