drdiesel1

It sounds like you have a problem with it. The dealer needs to escalate the status of your problem to Ford's technical assistance team and not keep the car for days while they gather information. Sounds like it might be a button or configuration problem. I would make the dealers tech look at another stock unit with you, to verify the operation between them. This will show the problem if it has one. Then they can't just blow you off again. I've done this with lots of customers to prove things out when they can't understand how to relate the problem(s) on paper. It's quick and easy and will make them feel better if something they think is a problem, isn't. If they can show me a real problem it's all the better. It's best for all involved and so simple to do.

Okay! I went and checked mine. It stays were I set it at. During my testing, I see where the setting notification shows an OK selection when you're pressing the dimmer button to change it. Make sure you press OK, after your have selected the light setting you've set. Otherwise, the system will probably just default to the last setting when the system is active. Give it a try and let us know if it works for you :victory:

Yeah... It's not always best to go to the dealers for this type of stuff. They don't really know how it functions and most owners know more. I'll update this thread when I look at mine. Hope I can help, somehow.

This might be related too. Nov 08 2013 4307 -2013 C-Max, 2013-2014 Escape, Focus - Body Control Module Ground, DTC U3008:13 Some 2013 C-Max, 2013-2014 Escape and Focus vehicles may exhibit DTC U3008:13 in Body Control Module (BCM). If DTC is present, a BCM ground issue exists and must be given priority over other DTCs or symptoms. A poor ground can cause low voltage to BCM, which could cause erratic, intermittent operation of several electrical components. Check ground circuits G107 and G301 on Focus and C-Max, G103 and G200 on Escape. To verify integrity of these ground circuits, use a suitable bulb to place load on circuits and measure voltage drop. With load present, manipulate wiring harness to check for intermittent fault. Repair any circuit that drops greater than 0.3 volts and re-test. Check pin fit in all BCM connectors with a flex probe. BCM replacement will result in repeat repair if ground issue is left unresolved.

I've never paid much attention to this. I'll check it and see, the next time, I drive it.

When you buy HID kits, they come with 2 balasts, 2 bulbs and 2 wire harness/plug pigtails. The kit will service the system based on bulb design. If your bulb design is a 2 bulb system with hi/low in the same bulb, then you only need 1 kit. Our C-Max has 2 separate bulbs. I pair is for low beam and the other pair is for high beam. We have a total of 4 bulbs. Therefore, you need two kits to have all 4 bulbs converted to HID's. Otherwise, you can just run the low beams with 1 kit and leave the high beams alone. It's all based on the vehicles design. Unfortunately, we have 4 separate bulbs and can't get away with 1 set for all :spend:

I think, I picked up the term Smart Key up from my Toyota :drop: Here;s what the OM has on it. Yes, Ford calls it the Intelligent Access Key. Thanks :) My Energi has the type 2

The image above shows my FOB. I have the sensors on my door handles. It's a factory designed system and comes from the factory as is. No add-on system. I don't know the exact term for it. I didn't bother to look it up. It's standard on my Energi. It's the next level up from they push button start system from what I understand.

Keyless entry isn't the same as the Smart Key system with the touch handle feature.

You need two HID pairs to run both hi and low beams.

What mode was the headlamp switch in when you reset the dimmer function ?

I think the remote start might be part of the Smart Key system package ????

Do you have a link to the site you checked. I think the SEL with MFT has this feature standard. If you looked at a parts and accessory fishe, you're probably looking at add on stuff for all FoMoCo vehicles ???

This is why I use a capped bulb, just like the factory design. Mine are 6000K.

Some use grill blocking to reduce warm up's and help keep it warm longer. Reduce you heater temps. I use 78° for both A/C and heat to reduce demand on the system. As meantioned, use heated seats if you have them. Check your tire pressures too. I run 51 (tire rating) in mine. As the temps drop, so will tire pressure. Change your oil and use 0W20 full synthetic oil. I did @ 500 miles and now have 4000. My ICE is no longer loud when it kicks on. Add some Techron to the tank to clean the fuel system and carbon deposits. Charge your 12V with a micro processor charger to keep it @ maximum SOC. I charge mine at least every 3 months. Cold weather will require more frequent service and help reduce damand.

I use to drive in the snow 30 years ago. Now it's just dealing with the fog sometimes. Most of the time out here, we need the light to see far enough ahead to avoid animals at night. HID's with a properly capped bulb are an excellent investment in safety, IMO ;) YMMV!

I've never found any that I've been happy with. All the bulbs that produce a brighter light usually have a much shorter life. I've never had good luck with them in my motorcycles and quit spending the extra money on a 55 watt bulb pumped up to 75 watts. They don't produce better coverage or light, and burn out much sooner IMO. I replaced my bulbs with true HID's and have never looked back. They last forever. Have a better, brighter light and don't have some oddball tint that makes my car look like a Hooptie K-Mart, blue light special :lol:

I also use the trip 2 data. Using a log book to record EV miles is the only way to track true ICE mileage that I know of. I don't know if the IDS can track just ICE mileage or not ? I've never looked for that data. Next time I' m using it, I see what I can find.

This is what I get per tank when using it as a plug-in :love_shower:

No. I used it as a hybrid for the first week without plugging it in. I wanted to verify the MPG's. When I don't plug the car in, it's the same 1.4 kWh battery capacity as the hybrid. Nothing is different now that they updated the hybrids with the Energi's software to control EV speed and reduce the warmup times and shutter controls. The Energi has an extra 300 lbs of battery to carry around. I don't do a lot of freeways driving either.

Yes, I use my own digital gauge. I recently bought 4 of the same brand and model. 1 for my car, 1 for my motorcycle, 1 for my tire machine and 1 for a spare in the garage. I have a few analog gauges as well, but I prefer the digitals over them. When I verified my cars mpg capability using it as only a hybrid, I was able to get 54 mpg. That was new with less than 500 miles on the ICE and matched my tests with the dealers demo for 4 hours of driving. My ICE has about 1400 miles now. I changed my oil @ 500 ICE miles and brought the tire pressures up to 51 psi. I've never retested after breaking in the motor and changing tire pressures, but I think it will be at least another 1500 ICE miles before the motor has completed the break-in period. The best I was able to get with my 2013 Prius C, was 53 mpg under the same conditions, but with the higher pressures and more ICE break-in time. It had 4000 miles on the car and probably 3500+ ICE miles with 46 PSI. The C-Max has proven to be the better car overall and with better MPG's too. My Energi is the SEL trim. The Prius C was a craker box on wheels and had very limited EV time. I've also noticed after the 1400 miles on the ICE and using the Royal Purple 0W20 full synthetic, my ICE is very quiet when it kicks on.. :wub2:

I plan on using trip 2 with a logbook to keep track of my total EV miles. I plan on using my trip 2 data to keep track of ICE miles. That way, I can change my oil every 5K or 6 to 8 months. I don't plan on letting my oil go past either of those parameters. I'll just reset trip 2 every 5K of ice time. Kinda like an oil life monitor. Oil contains acid's that can and will cause damage to seals that will lead to oil leaks. It's not worth saving 20 bucks to have oil leaks.

I run 51 (tire rated) psi in my tires and use Royal Purple 0W20 oil. I never drive over 65 on the freeways.

Scan Gauge II isn't a scan tool. It will read some codes, but it's an actual gauge for reading data pid's. You can monitor the HVB's SOC, it's temperature, cabin temperature, 12V battery voltage, ETC.

When the sensor detects the lack of daylight, it's designed to activate the headlamps. So when you pull into the garage, they will come on by design. The headlamps will only come on with the wipers set to the low or high wiper switch settings. Not in rain sense/auto mode.