drdiesel1

I don't have AT&T service. It sends information to my PC :happy feet: Setup an account here: https://phev.myfordmobile.com/content/mfm/en_us/site/login.html

I don't know. Try it ;)

Anytime the ICE is off and your car is moving, you're saving gas over a conventional car :happy feet:

I never identified anything on anyone's car....... What exactly is your problem and why do you continually rant and confuse the subject ? You have no clue what you're ranting about and the best I can tell, you just like to run off with your hair on fire :clapping: You don't need to listen, believe, do or concern yourself with anything I have to say, so go and grind your ax on someone else. Some people wont/don't like to hear anything they don't agree with and it seems like you don't agree with anything. Have fun! Oh! Toyota has no tech, so it's easy not to have problems if the car isn't equipped :lol: Toyota's are a pile of junk, IMO. Please don't compare my Ford with a crapwagon Toyota. There is none..........Ford is a better car with no question.

Yep! We call it, lot rot ;) That's died as in dead... Not the color dyed :victory:

The new Ford App :love_shower:

Just use the Quote button ;)

You can now use the New Ford App to get a low 12V battery alert ;)

By monitoring amperage and voltage loads, you can isolate the problem(s) After you find the source, then you can figure out why it's happening. They don't need to check code, at least until they find the source. You're working from the wrong end. Isolate the source of the draw first. If it's a control module, look at it and it's functions or it's direct relations to others.

It's not a mystery. It's an electrical problem and it can be isolated. It's not something that magically comes and goes with the tide.

Aren't dealers reassuring :clapping: :lol2:

This was done long before CR posted their BS........ It's an extension coverage period of the APIM

Mine is a Pico Lab Scope. It's a Digital Storage Oscilloscope. It measures voltage over time. You can add other accessories to measure cylinder compression, amps/current draw, exhaust pulses, secondary ignition KV, fuel pressure. You can watch crank sensors, cam sensors, valve actuation, relative compression, starter draw, voltage drop of any circuit or relays. Fuel pump waveforms while the pump is running. Anything that is an automotive electrical component can be tested, inspected and monitored while in operation. It's called dynamic testing. You can setup the scope to monitor anything and watch trends over given times. You could monitor the 12V battery voltage over a week. With a multiple channel scope, you can monitor the amperage draw at the same time. Most scopes are 2 and 4 channel. It gives you the opportunity to setup other inputs along with the one you might have a problem with. This comes in handy on intermittent stalling and hard start problems. Random electrical problems can be difficult to catch. With the scope, you can run a monitor and watch it for long periods, as long as you have the correct setup. Parasitic load testing is common practice on dead battery issues. Most of the time, I just use my Fluke DMM and wait anywhere from 20 to 60 minutes to find the systems draw. Anything over 35 to 40 M/A's is considered excessive. The C-Max 12V battery is only a 390 CCA battery. Most standard car batteries are around 600 CCA's and up. This will shorten the batteries capability when the system has a draw. Without a conventional starter to start the car, you never know the 12V batteries SOC, unless you measure it. This is why everyone finds it dead without notice. Conventional cars use the starter to start the engine and it loads the battery with a 150 to 250 amp draw while cranking. You physically hear it and can tell if it has a low battery, because the starter will crank slow, drag or just click. The hybrid is started with MG1 and it's power comes from the HVB. The only active role the 12V battery has, is to power the controllers and allow the HVB contacts to close when you push the power button on the dash or turn the key on an SE model. You don't get any feedback from it to know if the 12V battery is getting low, until it's dead :drop: Here's a scope capture image of the crank sensor, the cam sensor and a pressure transducer that is reading the piston travel in a 2004 Ford F150 that wont start. It's a reman motor and they improperly installed the timing chain. The shop had me program a new PCM for it. Didn't fix it :spend:

A lab scope will watch the system up to 14 hours per screen. I can set my lab scope to watch a car for 583 days, 24 hours a day. Why can't the dealers do the same ? .............To cheap to have the proper tools :drop:

RO/Repair Order...... DTC/Diagnostic Trouble Code(s)

And 11 miles for advertised range :lol2:

The "patch" updates as you call it are actually calibration file updates. They are automated flash programs. They are either installed or they are not. There's no in-between or partial programming. Once the newest file is installed, it can't be installed again. The 2 hours on the first update was probably due to multiple modules requiring updates. Mine had 5 module updates the first time, I updated mine. Sorry to hear about all theses issue's with your C-Max. Too bad the dealer isn't attempting to do a parasitic load test to find out what the actual amperage draw is. They could isolate and trace it to the fault by process of elimination. Good luck with it.

Is this really necessary ? Saying nothing would better, but if you must :baby:

Yeah, even a 3 kWh would serve well for extended EV times :happy feet: The 7.6 kWh battery was the draw to the C-Max for me. Toyota's 4.4 kWh battery was kind of useless to me. The car was 41K and it's a crap box, IMO ;)

The hybrid is a great car, but the plug in works for me. I'm at 101 mpg's on this tank. 820 miles on 8.11 gallons :yahoo:

No, I don't see them as lemmings. It' if they refuse to listen to common sense and try a simple test, I just don't get it. To be so stubborn about a problem and ignore an otherwise simple way to eliminate an unknown is just cutting off your nose to spite your face...... I don't understand. Isn't that why they post here. To try an resolve problems. It seems some just want to hate online and ignore any advice. I don't know it all, but I sure know common sense. Thanks, Jus! I'm not trying to be a problem, but it's happening anyways.

Yes, they are on the same can buss, but the TPMS isn't tied into the ABS/Traction control functions. It won't disable the drivers ability to control the TCS and disable it.

Yeah! I guess it's best to just :sing_rain: and ignore the logical way to approach the problem ;) Don't do anything to help yourself or the dealers service dept. to help eliminate other possibilities :drop: Don't worry, I won't try to help him or anyone else that's not open to it, anymore. Thanks :spend: I didn't come into this thread to argue... I tried to bring some logical information to a problem, I've handled many times before. I guess if you don't like my way of trying to get a message across or trying to get someone to think, just put me on your ignore list and we can all just be happy little lemmings and post about flowers and sunshine. Oh boy!

I doubt very much that the TPMS would have an affect on disabling the system. It's not integrated into the ABS/Traction control systems. It's a standalone system.