drdiesel1

Never found it, but I wansn't actually looking for it. I'll need to check it out so I don't give out the wrong info. Thanks!

The TPMS will only afffect your ability to detect a low tire. The TCS on the C-Max can not be turned off. It's always on.

Yep! The AUTO climate control is designed to change zones based on temp settings. Nothing has been changed. It's just the way you are using it with different temps. You'll need to push the buttons to get it to the zone you wan't if it's not going to it in AUTO mode. This is normal. That's why they have the buttons. It's called manual mode.

My C wouldn't... Most new cars have traction control. The nanny won't let it ;)

Sounds like you should change your driving to match the car. After all, it is a hybrid :spend:

Did the RO have the stored DTC information on it ?

I'm not one of the lady's here, but it would be a good idea to keep the FOB separate for a few good reasons. #1 It's likely that the FOB could be activated without you knowing it from other keys/rings pressing on the buttons while in your purse or from the pressure as the purse is moved and knocked about. You could unknowingly unlock the car or even worse, roll down all the windows if the button is pushed for 2 seconds. #2 You don't need the key or the fob to get into the car, (unless you don't have the SMART access system ?) so why have it added to the other keys/rings just to make a bigger handful of stuff to deal with. (If you don't have the Smart system you're adding weight to the lock cylinder and adding potential damage to it) I have my house key attached to my FOB and keep it separate from all other vehicle keys. It's less hassle than carrying around a wad of keys and FOB's, plus the other Smart keys, FOB's can interfere with other signals. I've already see where other members have found their cars with the windows down the next morning. Some have posted about the hatch being open too ;)

I like how they can predict a cars reliability :drop: The biggest cause of this rating is the NAV/MFT system issue's. I haven't had any issue's with mine. I updated to 3.6.2 the day after I purchased my car. I think they need to reevaluate this rating. From the CS article: The vehicle with the top predicted reliability score was the 2014 Subaru Forester SUV, while Ford Co's C-Max Energi plug-in hybrid vehicle received the worst score, Consumer Reports said. Two popular models, Honda's redesigned 2013 Accord with a V6 engine and the 2013 Nissan Altima, scored too poorly for Consumer Reports to continue recommending them. One of the main problem areas in the survey was in-car electronics, including infotainment systems. Of the 17 categories tracked, the area generated the most complaints, including buggy systems with screen freezes, touch control lag or a reluctance to recognize a cell phone or other device. For instance, last year, Ford tumbled to nearly the bottom of the survey due to flaws in its touch-screen navigation and entertainment system, MyFord Touch.

CS has always favored imports and I believe they take manufacture money for good reports :secret: I never considered CS to be a worthwhile source for anything, especially automotive information :future:

I'm sure the engine isn't cut off immediately, either :victory:

I've never had mine use the engine unless the HVB was full. I guess it makes sense that it could use the engine in decel mode anytime it requires added drag to reduce downhill speeds beyond MG1's capability to control it. I've been on some steep hills too ;)

The eCVT has two rather large (MG2 is bigger then MG1) electric motors inside. They spin rotors to move the car and charge the battery. You're feeling the stored energy from those rotating masses. Normal ;)

DHA limits downhill speed by using MG1 as a brake. MG1 recharges the HVB battery. It has zero effect on the engine or rpm's, unless the HVB is full. When the HVB is full on a downhill grade with the DHA on, the system will spin the engine in decel/fuel cut mode to reduce vehicle speed. It uses the engines drag while off to control speed. The manual states not to use the DHA (down hill assist) all the time, so make sure to turn it off when not driving in hilly areas.

Maybe you should read the SSM, again ;)

Thanks. I try to keep up with the latest information on all vehicles. If its' something I own, then I make sure I stay well informed :victory:

By connecting to a 12V power source, you'll be draining the battery whenever the load is active. This might lead to a dead/discharged battery and will eventually cause battery failure due to a lowered SOC.

The Ford trans is their own design with patents from Toyota. Toyota traded for Ford patents and use rights. The problem is from lack of lubrication while the ICE is off. As I stated in my first post. The Energi's are exempt from this SSM due to the fact, they have an external ATF pump to circulate ATF while the ICE is off. Adding the pump would eliminate this condition. This trans has no filter. The trans is cooled and lubricated by the ATF only. Keeping it changed will reduce the amount of particulates circulating throughout the trans suspended in the fluid.

My USB thumb drive and my iPod were draining my battery. The thumb drive was being pinged all the time, even with the key off. I assume the iPod was charging during this time of module activity. I never tested it's parasitic draw. After unplugging them, my battery has been perfect. I tested it again yesterday after I recharged it to 100% SOC about 9 days ago. It would normally be down to 12.2 volts and 50% SOC within 4 to 5 days. It's been over 12.6 volts and 95% SOC for the last 9 days. I call that a fix :love_shower:

I will be servicing my trans @ 10K for the first round and probably ever 20K after that. Depends on the requirements shown by the ATF. I might even step it up to 5K on the first one due to this SSM information ;)

The Energi will give you EV mileage over total miles traveled. If you keep the lifetime history and change the oil @ every 5K on the ICE, you'll be better off. I plan on resetting my lifetime data after 5K when I change my oil. I did the first oil change at 1500 miles and 500 miles of ICE time. I don't like running my ICE more than 5K between oil changes. I'll also put a time limit on it. Probably about 6 months, due to acids in the oil. If left unchecked, the acid will eat at the seals and can cause oil leaks. It's not worth saving 10 bucks to have oil leaks or the possibility of sludge buildup from letting the oil change interval be pushed beyond the normal requirements of an ICE engine. Keep good data records so you can track it and protect your investment :spend: I log my service data on the Ford website.

CVTe is covered for 8/100K

This was not a problem for the Energi models... They have an external ATF pump for the extended EV range. If it was my car, I would add the external pump ;)

Bonus Bolt ='s A bolt that was dropped during production.

The AtoZ plan is Ford employee discounts on Ford products. I doubt you could get close without it.

I have the Ford AtoZ plan. After adding all the rebates, incentives and CA green cash totals. That's what I was able to get mine for :love_shower: My MSRP sticker was 35K