drdiesel1

In colder climates there are a lot of people using grill blocks, but it will require you to have a Scan Gauge II so you can monitor coolant temperatures to make sure you don't cause any engine damage from an over heat situation. Cold engines us a lot more fuel. The grill blocks will help maintain higher engine temperatures and allow the vehicle to operate in a normal way. It's the same thing with diesel engines. You tune the grill block off to the cars max maintianed/average temperature of around 200°F by using the scan gauge II and monitoring that PID to make sure it never gets higher than 230°F. IT will bring your MPG's back to a more normal level, but remember that short trips will always kill fuel economy no matter what modifications you do to keep engine temps up. It needs to run to make heat and until warmed up the fuel consumption will be higher. Look around the site and you'll find a lot of info. on this subject.

Why not use a static battery and charge it with a plug in charger. This car isn't equipped with a standard alternator. You could plug the charger into the AUX outlet and charge it while you're driving. Otherwise, you'll need to get better data on the 12V charging system to see if it can carry that extra load.

Don't forget about the Atkinson cycle of these engines.

Yeah! Tires should never blow-out when your kid slams them into a curb. I bet you had the standard door label air pressure too. Sounds like the kid needs to learn how to drive because you'll never find a tire that's kid proof. I'm sure it was 10 mph too :lol2:

Kumho has limited LLR tires, but I've never researched them for the C-Max. I used some on my Prius-C, but quickly traded that car in on the 13 C-Max. I didn't notice a change form the stock tires at all. Are you saying you don't like the Michelin's ?

I wouldn't worry to much about it. It's not like it's something they can't sort out and it isn't making the car unreliable or unsafe. Yes, it's annoying, but the car is a very great set of wheels and you would be unhappy without it. I know, I was for 4 months and had to buy another one. Last time I let that happen. Give them some time to fix it and you'll be glad you did :wub2:

Don't bank on it :spend:

No SubWooooooffer ;)

I understand that, but adding a high-flow AF isn't doing anything without an unrestricted outlet from the engine. It's like adding a cam to a hot rod and keeping the same stock intake and exhaust. It's a waste of time and money. Opening the exhaust flow will make the AF flow better. Sure, you might gain something, but until the other end is matched it's an unbalanced setup and your not getting the full affect.

If you want better airflow from that K&N filter, you'll need to modify the exhaust system too. Air in can't increase unless the air out can too ;)

It's about wasting money to buy a useless code reader :drop: and they won't read all the DTC's that can trigger the MIL to come on. You're uniformed.................. :spend:

My 2014 NRG with the Sony/Nav system only had two settings. It's driver or all seats. No stereo or surround settings.

https://owner.ford.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=Owner/Page/LogInPage&BackToLogin=Owner%2FPage%2FAccountHomePage&mode=force

Thanks! I see the other was a PDF on the hybrid system and it was free. Just imagine trying to read that HVAC DTC with a generic tool, if you can't even find it. It's my point. Those code readers are blind to these systems and people who use them think they have no DTC's stored, but the light is still on. I see this a lot on vehicles that come into the shop. The owner says the MIL is on, but there are no codes stored. I use the factory tool and pull up 5 codes and they're surprised. Happens a lot ;)

Yes, I believe the new 4 series and even the M4's use it.

What happens when you turn the audio system OFF ? Is the noise gone ? Isn't the system only active with the audio system ON ?

Okay! Find this one B10AF:19 ;)

That's actually Ford Motorcraft information. Was that FREE ?

That's pretty good..........Can you elaborate on where you were able to get that info ? Do you have a Ford manual or some other data base info ?

Here's a little test for the code readers. What are these DTC's related to ? Can you find any info on these. I know they can't read them, but, I just thought I would see how much info anyone can find without paying for it. These are Ford C-Max proprietary DTC's. Click to view:

Unfortunately this is incorrect information. It's completely false and you shouldn't make such erroneous and misleading statements making others think it's possible. I can assure you and everyone else, it's NOT POSSIBLE with cheap code readers.

Unfortunately, I can't recommend anything other than the Factory IDS for 100% coverage. I have the IDS, the Snap-On Verus Pro and an Auto Enginuity as well as some others, but the only one guaranteed to read 100% of the systems DTC's and data is the Ford IDS. I know the AE should read 90% plus, but I've never compared them to know for sure. The Snap-On Verus won't and it's a $10K tool. The problem with aftermarket scan tools is related to the need to try and cover all vehicles. The IDS only covers Ford/Lincoln Mercury products. It's a guaranteed 100% coverage. The next one would be the AE. They seem to have a lot more coverage than anyone else's tool and you can buy the generic scan tool and add the manufacturer of choice to get the enhanced data information for the specific selection of brand(s) It's probably the cheapest way for an owner to cover the vehicle(s) they own without buying into a system for $10K that covers all vehicles up to about 80%. People think the cheap code readers will read all PCM, DTC's, but that's 100% totally incorrect. They will read misfire and emission DTC's because that's what's mandated by the US DOT. Everything else is proprietary and only tool manufacturers that are willing to pay for the rights to access (snap-on, AE, ETC.) will read that information. It's the same as DTC definitions. Notice you can't find much for those proprietary DTC's anywhere. It's the same thing. You need to pay for it. All Data, Mitchell and Identifix all pay and have subscription based data bases to access that information for repair shops to gain access to the factory information. Other than that, it's not worth spending money on code readers unless you only want to read misfire and emission based DTC's. Factory is always best. It's never cheap and that's another reason to leave it to the professionals, unless you're a true DIY'er that's willing to spend at least $3K. Don't forget all the control modules that aren't part of the PCM. Here's a topical system diagram. Have fun reading DTC's and data from these control modules with your $10 generic code reader. Click on this image and have a look.

Yes, the P0000/P1000 will clear when the monitors run after about 50 miles of driving. If you don't have an IDS, you won't know if the others have cleared because cheap code readers are not able to read all the systems.

OMG!

Your S/A is an idiot. Driving the car won't clear DTC's. You need to take it back to a competent dealer.