drdiesel1

If you shift out of D into N, it turns off the regeneration capability. Don't do that.

That's not a city MPG rating........It's their per tank rating. I would imagine it's similar to the C-Max rating of 620 on 20 bucks. Pretty meaningless, IMO. I would bet real world it's more like a combined MPG of under 35 as most are over rated. My 1999 Honda Civic could do that without even trying. IMO, these types of designs are more about gimmicks to get people to buy an over priced car with a shabby setup that costs next to nothing to produce. Most car buyers don't have a clue of what they're buying anyways, so why not sell a wannabee system to the uneducated consumer masses.

Got a picture of the offending item ?

I'm to the point I don't even worry about MPG's anymore. My readout is always around 80 mpg, so it's a moot point for me anymore. I still drive to get good MPG numbers, but it's become the norm to see 80 MPG on my display :happy feet: Oh! I don't let anyone drive my C-Max. The late braker has her own wheels. It's taken my 15 years to get her to stop warping rotors out every 2 years :yahoo:

With all the advanced technology, I would hope so. Solar is the next big oil and EV is the future :happy feet:

I wouldn't even think about something like this. 1st, they'll hack the car. The added labor will be much higher than the value. The parts will be much more expensive than the package availability from the factory. You might have interface problems with it. These systems are all CAN-Buss controlled and integrated into the vehicle. You can add this stuff, but labor kills the deal. The best thing to do is.......... BUY the CAR you want the way you want it. That way it's not cobbled together by some flat rate tech.

It can be done, but the more they add electronics the less likely it will. If I wanted a vehicle that I never had to replace, it would be a 1996 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L Diesel. They have 100% mechanical operated engine systems, so you can rebuild anything on it and keepergoing. The motor is good for a million miles or more before any major work is required as long as you perform the required service work to keep it in good condition. Other than that, it will outlive you :happy feet:

Nah! It's a cheap appliance and they enjoy waiting in lines to get the next one, ASAP! :lol:

:lol: :lol2:

From the link I gave earlier, it said 580 miles from 15.8 gal. 36.7 is what I came back with. IIRC, they stopped making it. I think the last year was 2013.

Only if you have the power lift gate. The key FOB has one too, but you probably don't have that ? You can change the lock functions by going into the programming mode. Go to the Ford Owner website and watch the video's for your car. Click this link and sign up. http://owner.ford.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=Owner/Page/HomePage

I don't think it's an issue. I might keep the car 5 years and replace it with something new then, if not sooner. The system it has works just fine. As long as it works the way it does now, it's a non issue for me. I have other things to worry about more than some BS about being ABANDONED ;) My Sony with Nav works just fine. My phone works great with the hands free system and my Bluetooth audio streams as designed. I certainly don't know what else you could ask for. My old windows 98 machine died years ago, so I replaced it with a new one. My windows 7 system is working, but I already updated to 8.1, so I guess the next OS is 10. I'm sure my PC won't be capable of running it, so I'll replace it to get the latest OS at some point in the next year or two. I know my C-Max won't last forever, so I'll keep up with the system it has. I usually replace my cars every 2 years anyways, OMG! It's an appliance and it has a shelf-life.

Erbiebe...... 1 post wilbersurfice :drop:

Yes.... Turn the AC off in the HVAC controller. Push the AC button and the AC compressor will stop running. And yes, it's by design to use the AC system while in defrost mode.

Here's a systems overview of the HVAC control. It wouldn't be very hard to find out what the actual fault is as long as it can be duplicated while the tech has the vehicle in the shop. Some quick voltage drop testing and monitoring will pinpoint the COF. I put red dots to indicate the main players in this diagram for the HVAC system.

So you're saying even with the car not running (accessory mode) HVAC on with the fan set manually (by pushing the fan speed button) the fan motor still surges ? If so, I would have the dealer check it,,,,,if you can duplicate the problem for them to see it. Show the tech not the S/A. The tech will be the one working on it, so it's best to have them see it for themselves.

I would check my 12V battery. If the battery is low, this could be a result of the system trying to charge it. Low 12V system power will cause all kinds of problems. Do you have a 12V battery charger ? You'll need a way to check voltage and SOC on the 12V battery to know what's happening.

The green car with arrows is an indicator telling the car is READY to drive. Same as run mode on a conventional vehicle. The second one is showing you regenerative braking as it recharges the HVB from capturing energy from slowing the car down when you're using the brake pedal to come to a stop. You should find an owners manual and read it. There is a lot to learn. I suggest you read up on it.

What mode are you using ? Auto or Manual ? If it's in Auto mode when the issue occurs, try switching over to manual mode and set the fan speed manually and see if that changes it. Auto mode will run the fan speed at different speeds based on the load sensors input to the HVAC system. You need to test the system in manual mode before running to the dealer. If you can duplicate the issue in manual mode, then you have a problem. Otherwise, it's working as designed.

It has a small HVB that will allow the hang on motor to add assist on acceleration. I wouldn't call it a full on hybrid with a tiny battery. It's more of an assist hybrid lite. It's enough to give it start/stop capability and some added passing assist in a small amount. The system is more of an over sized alternator than an undersized hybrid system. A serpentine belt is what allows the system to to connect to the engine, so it's pretty much a joke IMO. Here's more info. The system includes an all-in-one motor/generator that replaces the alternator, connected to 32 lithium-ion cells jammed into a 65-pound battery pack located aft of the rear seat. Via a rubber belt, the electric motor/generator—built in China, with no permanent magnets—contributes a bonus 15 horses to the crankshaft, mostly under wide-open throttle.

Sweet! Glad to see it's possible to stretch it that far. I run 55 psi in my tires, all the time and run Royal Purple 0W20 full synthetic oil.

MG1 and MG2 are internal parts or the transmission and also part of the hybrid system. MG1 is the hybrid systems 12V system charge motor and the HVB regen motor through the inverter and battery control module systems. MG2 is the electric drive motor and therefore part of the transmission. They are the transmissions core units and without them, you go nowhere.

NO! It has a Hang-On, belt driven electric motor that has the capability to start the motor and regen battery power to the small HVB. Here's the GM info. about how great it is.... :drop: A claimed...36MPG is NOT very good for the added cost, IMO. The eAssist system uses power stored in the air-cooled, 115V Li-Ion battery and 15-kW motor-generator to provide an electrical boost in higher demand acceleration scenarios while also optimizing engine and transmission operation. For better fuel economy. Other eAssist highlights include: Regenerative braking which provides up to 15 kW of electricity to charge the battery.A taller final drive ratio for more efficient highway cruising.Automatic engine start-stop functionality. Aggressive fuel cut-off during deceleration to 0 mph.Intelligent charge/discharge of the high-voltage battery.Thanks to the Malibu Eco's eAssist technology, it is rated for 580 highway miles between fill-ups with its 15.8-gallon fuel tank.I could buy a Honda Civic for way less and get better MPG.

Don't forget....... When the dealer replaced your DC/DC converter, they had to have the battery disconnected. This will usually wipe out the KAM and your MPG's will start from ground zero. This is probably why you're seeing a drop in numbers. As the system plots and fills the memory blocks, you'll come back to the normal numbers. Starting with a reset KAM in cold weather will always show less mpg readings. Your base number is derived from the stored memory numbers and that included the warm weather driving as well. It will come back, but it will take some time. I've heard this same complaint over and over. Too bad the dealer didn't take the time to explain this to you after they worked on your ride. Memory wipes kill everything and the car will need to relearn/adapt to your driving habits and relearn everything all over. Have fun :happy feet:

The hybrid systems should be covered for 8 years. See you owners manual for that info. Every state has different requirements. CA has 10 years and 150K miles on my EV battery and 8 years 100K on everything else. Or you can go to the Ford website and get the info. from the online manuals.