drdiesel1

Mine is the Energi model, not the Hybrid model.

As long as you're using a spot that won't bend anything, you're good. I use it when not using a lift. No problem. If you're worried about it, use a wood block between the jacks lift plate and the cross-member contact points.

I really wish the dealers had people that could at least perform the standard TSB search before wasting time on things. IDK if this is your problem, but this TSB should be researched before wasting time driving around with zero results. It's a simple practice, yet they seem to be oblivious to the obvious. It's not the full article, but it has the TSB info you'll need. Good luck with your problem and I hope this helps.

I was actually referring] to the Energy Use gauge that my NRG has......Sorry!

I don't know, but I've never heard of such BS. Repairs are usually required at the dealers, but not maintenance. Find your ESP policy or check with the seller. Read this... Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act

Use of the AC compressor will cause the gauge to read. Same as running the defroster. On the Energi, it reads when the coolant heater element is in use also.

That's the FL blue hair. That's what everybody calls the retired people down there. Don't sit at the bus stops ;)

Fixed your avatar image, Kelleytoons :victory:

Yeah, but his question was about Doing It Yourself.....A.K.A. DIY

No warranty can force you to have the oil changed at the dealer. DIY and keep records. We can tell if an engine is not serviced properly when it's taken apart, but it's best to keep all the receipts and log the mileage and dates to CYA.

How do I get/make 320 cbr sound files ? What's the ripper ? Will it change existing files downloaded from Amazon music ? Thanks!

They should be able to look on the Oasis system and know what's been done. Put your VIN in here and see if you have any outstanding actions available. http://www.etis.ford.com/home.do

If you don't have the electronic keyless system, there shouldn't be a problem with having the key near the car. Just don't leave it in the ignition.

You are correct, but the car will not drop to sleep mode within that short period of time. Some vehicles can take up to 40 min. Opening the door while the meter is setup could pop the internal fuse. I've seen this happen on more than one occasion in the shop. If you want access to the car, flip the door latches to the closed position. This will act the same as having the doors closed. Just don't pull on or touch the door handle because it will active the BCM. I would also caution not to bring the key within range of the vehicle, as it will most likely active the BCM as soon as it detects it's presents. You can not just unhook the battery and install the meter. You need a switch to open the circuit off the ground cable and allow the meter to carry the load. If you open the circuit without the switch and reconnect the meter, you're wasting your time. All the modules will sleep as soon as the cable is unhooked and only a few modules will reactive when the meter is hooked up. The switch keeps everything powered as normal and the meter maintains the circuit for memory feed when with ground cable is disconnected from the system through the switch. It's not like the old days when you could just hook up a test light after disconnecting the battery cable. The circuit must be maintained for proper test results when using the parasitic amperage draw test on a computer controlled vehicle. You can use either positive or negative terminals. It's exactly the same on either side. I made this drawing using the positive side. Just be very careful when working on the positive side. It's best to use the negative side, but sometimes access is a problem. Install the switch and close it. Run the vehicle around the block. Take the key out of the car and remove it from the area. Flip the door latches and leave the doors open. Install the meter between the switch and set it up for amperage testing. Open the switch and wait for it to time out and see what your reading is. It should be around 35M/A's or less. Some vehicles will go as high as 50 M/A's. Here's a drawing of the setup to put the meter inline without opening the circuit. Click on it to enlarge the image.

When the battery dies it can cause memory resets throughout the cars control modules. I wouldn't be too concerned about the radio being on from the jump-start.

I find this very odd. In another post you told us you were a service tech, yet you don't even know what the BMS is on your own vehicle ??

It sounds like a slow leak and when you park the car, it might cover the hole on rare occasions. Here's my take on how to find this. I use a spray bottle (old windex) with soapy water. Spray around the valve stem with the cap removed. Then move to the sidewall and rim lip area. You can do the tread on the car, but if it's a rear tire it will make it harder to do. On the fronts you can just move the car with the wheel turned and spot spray the tread. From what you're telling us, I would tend to think the TPMS seal could be a problem. The TPMS has an o-ring/rubber grommet between the sensor stem and the wheel rim. If it's not properly installed it very well could leak and change rates based on temperature changes.

OMG! :lol2:

If you purchase a service repair manual (or find something online ??) all the factory DTC's are available. Otherwise, you'll need the IDS for DTC definitions. Most factory scan tools have become PC based and all the DTC and repair information has moved into the digital information age, but the factory manual still has it. IIRC, Ford still offers a CD based service manual with the electrical info included for about 170 bucks. The car will give you the DTC, but the trick is to find the definitions and know what to do with it and how to diagnose it, properly. The key here is not to guess because you have a DTC. The DTC information only tells you what the PCM/BCM/EBCM, etc. has captured. The DTC isn't going to tell you how to fix it. Tooling and education is expensive, so if you plan to keep your car and can't DIY, buy the Ford ESP warranty.

Yeah, that's it...................... Make it IDIOT PROOF :yahoo:

While this isn't the end of the world, it sounds like your dealer is useless. Your copy of the repair order should have all the info. of what was done. It should also have any DTC information that was pulled from the car during the dealer visit. If not, your dealer is taking advantage of you. Anytime your car is worked on (especially for a CEL) all the DTC's pulled should be listed on your copy. If not, demand they supply you with this information before accepting the paperwork. Take it back and let them know you require all the DTC info pulled from your vehicle. This way, you can track if it's a fault that was not repaired from the last time. There are 100's of reasons the GEL light can come on, so don't be to upset over it. DO make sure your repair(s) are properly documented, each and every visit.

That's because you have the key FOB with you. Leave it outside of the vehicle and close the door with the car in Ready/Run Mode and it will honk 2 times when you shut the door, as long as the key is far enough away from the car. Try it. Exit the car and shut the door with it active.

I think he said she left the door open while out of the car.

Find the tire that's low and check it for nails/screws that could cause a slow leak. These are the most common cause of LTPMS activation.

The car honked the horn 2 times when she got back in and shut the door, but she didn't pay attention to it.