plus 3 golfer

No, no no. The transfer shaft must be spinning.? I believe ptjones described the noise he heard before his transmission was replaced.

LOL, OK. I thought you might still be on Ford’s early 2000s MY 5k / 6 month schedule. I believe shortly after the 2007 report I referenced on wear and OCI, Ford went to 7.5 k miles ( not sure when they went to one year) and eventually extended OCI to 10k / one year. I’ve used synthetics for many years: (Mobil Delvac) in my diesels since 1977, and Mobil1 in my gas vehicles since 2000. $20 EXTRA for synthetic is still too high. About twice a year Mobil has been offering a $12 rebate on a 5 quart jug of Mobil1 oil. Walmart generally sells it for around $25. So, watch for the rebate (someone will likely flag it on the forum), buy the oil and like fbov says, take it to whoever does your OC. Here’s the link to check Mobil promotions. https://mobiloil.com/en/promotion/mobil-promotions

Why are you changing every 5k miles? Did you know that wear rates and friction decrease as the OCI increases? At minimum stick with the 10k OCI as recommended by Ford. See publication link below by Ford / Conoco. Either oil is fine to use. https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/2007-01-4133/

I can’t recall whether this was posted before as there seems to be “renewed” interest in upgrading SYNC2. One can use FORSCan to enable Navigation in SYNC2 if you do not have it. Read the link below and also follow links in that thread. I have not done it as when I upgraded to 3.08 several years ago, Nav cards were going for about $75 on eBay, maps are not updated frequently enough, and I find Google / Waze phone apps very good. I see one can now get the A10 card for about $20-$25 on eBay. So, with an ELM327, extended version of FORScan, an an A10 card, one can install Nav for less than $100. https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=8368&sid=fe5e2589f3c0104bfd329e85e05f8055&start=10

Champion says 25% longer than platinum. 125k miles ? Maintenance schedules are generally very conservative to begin with (OCI, filter changes, spark plugs and so forth). The best way to determine when to change oil, filters, spark plugs is to “measure” ‘the performance of the item and estimate how such loss in performance will affect overall performance / additional future cost (difficult to do). For example, you can send oil samples for Used Oil Analysis. A UOA will likely cost more than a DIY oil change but oil performance can affect the “life” of ICE. With respect to spark plugs, one can visually check, measure leakage from tip to ground, and monitor misfires with scan tool. But, if one has to remove plug to evaluate whether to change at 100k miles, 125k miles, or 200k miles, one might as well just change them. Also, remember that ICE might only run for 70% of the total mileage. So, with iridium, it wouldn’t surprise me if one could get 200k+ vehicle miles or more on a set of plugs.?

I believe the main and likely only difference is that the 530s are iridium which among other different properties lasts longer than platinum. https://www.championautoparts.com/Parts-Matter/automotive-repair-and-maintenance/Spark-Plug-Materials.html Also, for those changing air filter, check the torque on your plugs. Read my post and compare my pic with other pic above showing oil on plugs.

Are you asking is there an emergency release inside the car in case the FOB or liftgate button on dash console for cars with a power liftgate fail to open the liftgate? There is no emergency release inside the car should the FOB or power liftgate button on dash fail to open liftgate.

One other point: There are invoice prices for options (I believe just factory installed ones) which are included in the XPlan cost. I don’t have the invoice option prices. But comparing an actual Titanium AWD with a FWD one, both with no other options, the XPlan cost difference is $1436 which means invoice for the $1500 MSRP AWD option would be about $1436/0.996 = $1442. The benefit of the XPlan includes being able to buy at a fixed price regardless of market conditions and to get occasional special incentive offers not available to the public. BMW has a similar program. Currently BMW is offering an $11,000 incentive on their I3s. Add in the $7,500 FIT credit, and one can get an 2020 MSRP $54,000 I3 REX for a net cost of $35,500 less any dealer discounts.

Two important details on the XPlan are 1) the price includes advertising, finance costs, transportation, fuel charges and Ford Motor Company or Lincoln Motor Company administrative fees and 2) dealers will be permitted to assess up to $100 in documentary fees unless otherwise provided by state or local laws or regulation. The dealership may not charge extra for these items. So, no building up the price with advertising fees, admin costs, and document fees. The Cost formula for the XPlan price for Ford products = Invoice - (0.4% X Invoice) + $275. Delivery Charge is then added to this price. In addition, XPlan customers can receive special offers from Ford which are not available to the Public in addition to the incentives shown below. So, here's the latest prices including incentives (all incentives may not apply) for the Escape except for the PHEV Escape.

I think the point is that the XPlan (discount price given by Ford to employees / retirees of many companies) yields a consistant basis for comparing vehicles. One can walk into a dealer and dealer must sell car at that price. Of course you can haggle for more off. Here's two snips of an actual vehicle showing the XPlan price and the Window Sticker.

I didn't realize that the Titanium Escape was also a Hybrid. I changed my above post accordingly. Yep, the PHEV is a great deal.

The PHEV seems to be priced about $1800 more than the Sport HEV but about $2000 less than the Titanium HEV after estimated FIT credit of around $6,000 on the PHEV and all current incentives. I can pick up an X-Plan virtually full loaded (no AWD) Escape Hybrid for $29,607 (window sticker $32,750 see link below) or a Titanium AWD HEV X-Plan for $33,394. The PHEV X-Plan price shows as $38725. Take off the $6000 and the net PHEV cost is $32725 or around $600 less than the HEV. In summary, the net cost of the three cars would be Escape Sport Hybrid FWD Loaded (XPlan with current incentives) $29,607 Escape Sport Hybrid FWD No Options (XPlan with current incentives) $26,518 Escape Titanium Hybrid AWD (XPlan with current incentives) $33,394 Escape Titanium Plug-in (XPlan with incentives and FIT credit) $31,475 Of course one can add additional options / accessories to the above prices. So, if we assume that HVB degradation with the active liquid cooling will be minimal on the PHEV, the PHEV Escape at this time is a no brainer if you want the Titanium version (I do). If one is going to keep the car for many years, the Plug-in additional cost over the Sport may (almost certainly will) pay for itself in fuel savings. https://www.windowsticker.forddirect.com/windowsticker.pdf?token=HiB6OueSn8QsdvbAmsi7ao7XuE4eJA0cmS%2FI%2BSPiFBNAQ2tF31XNa0EJn%2B7%2Bs5itGK7IzGYHCmy0siXoGuV8pKp7e0WMYSWHlSQtgL7E13rI12yik1TjtJSOWo%2Fd7Bnat7wmYG8M2OFYDvG9RvE%2BruMkuOjfIV0VTgsAutgfQM0%3D

I suggest you pay $25 and download the service manual as it's too cumbersome / time consuming to find what you need. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-C-Max-2013-2014-Factory-Workshop-Service-Repair-Manual/303449974294?hash=item46a7072616:g:d50AAOSwdnNdu4HJ

You need to search!! fbov has been posting about his new Escape hybrid and it does not have an eight speed tranny but the same design as the C-Max.

Here's a pic of mine which shows 3.08 installed. I still have version 3.10 ready to install but see no reason to install as I don't have any issues with 3.08.

Maybe cosmetic as plaintiff claimed. Ford claimed the linked lugnut lawsuit was “non-sensical”. Judge evidently agreed. https://www.autonews.com/regulation-safety/judge-dismisses-proposed-class-action-lawsuit-against-ford-over-lug-nuts

Go to System Information on the display and you can look at the software version. The first three digits will likely be 3.06, 3.08, or 3.10.

IIRC, the remote start works with the PATS and hence requires an RFR module / larger antenna that can transmit the signal a greater distance to the FOB for validation. With a normal FOB, the validation range is about 1 meter so car will only start with FOB in car. So, I don’t believe buying a remote start FOB will work without additional equipment even if you can program it into vehicle (may not be possible). You need two FOBs programmed into car for car to start. So, since one FOB is missing, I’d have Ford / qualified locksmith reset the FOB data in the car and then reprogram old FOB and add new FOB to the car. This will then prevent missing FOB from being used on your car. The reset will also wipe out MY KEY data. The new emergency key blank then needs cut.

Yes when braking and when coasting to simulate engine braking.

What Ecopias? Sounds similar to feeling I had with the Ecopia 422+ (even at 48-50 psi on the C-Max) although I didn’t then feel as “safe” as I do now with the AltiMax RT43s (virtually no mushiness perhaps do to higher load rating).

Here's the SSM:

Below is a thread and my post on connector water issue. Ford techs should have know about this issue in 2013. IRRC, there was a TSB / SSM on water in connectors.

I know some don’t think much of CR. Here is their take from testing headlights. “Both LED and HID headlights can produce a brighter, whiter light than halogens, and they illuminate the sides of the road well. But how far a headlight illuminates straight ahead, in the direction a car is traveling, is what’s most important, Stockburger says. In that respect neither HIDs nor LEDs have proved to be superior over halogens in CR’s testing.“

You have to remember that the first two generation hybrid eCVTs were designed and built by Aisin. The third generation used in the C-Max was “designed” by Ford. The three versions look virtually the same but the gear ratios are different and the traction motors have increased in HP with each generation. IIRC, the maximum speed in EV operation has also increased in each version and is now up to 85 mph in the C-Max. So, torque has changed on the transfer shaft. IMO, the bearing retainer on the transfer shaft on the damper side apparently is not holding as in failed transmissions, the transfer shaft / bearing has moved which results in bearing damage, tearing up the gear teeth, and ultimately boring a hole in the damper housing. Perhaps, the retainer on the latest version cannot handle a higher axial load under certain conditions. Bottom line, I don’t believe one can assume that because generation 1 was “ bulletproof”, that generation 3 is also.