Bill-N

Speaking from recent experience, no need to pull any fuses. Just let the car sit unused for 2 or 3 days. 12V battery will die, taking the offending ACM with it. Jump start and all is well again. (What's the emoji for sarcasm?)

Why?

Sounds like the AC compressor to me. They make an awful clatter.

Mine are fine, too. Born 6/12, 70+k miles.

Only Mustang, Focus crossover to survive Ford car cuts https://www.detroitnews.com/story/business/autos/ford/2018/04/25/ford-cutting-car-lineup-earnings/34244867/

No. The touchscreen reset is needed only when the touch screen gets fouled up. So if it's working, leave it alone.

Don't forget to reset the battery monitor. I don't know how it's done, but others here do.

Just another data point: my cigarette lighter voltmeter showed 11.1V yesterday when I started the car. I leave the voltmeter plugged in all the time with no issues. Note the car was unlocked and in the garage, so this says nothing about minimum voltage needed to unlock.

What obob says is spot on. Get a 12v "cigar lighter" voltmeter to monitor the battery. Note, the two 12v outlets in front power off a few minutes after the car is turned off, and come back on when the door is opened. Use the under-hood connections to jump the car (as designed). IMHO, buying the car was not a bad idea. :) Cheers.

Since we're drifting a bit off topic, I've found bubble wrap held on with bungie cords (or the ever-popular duct tape) also works.

If the battery in the fob is original, then it should be replaced. I'm unaware of any fob-battery-low notification on the c-max.

I also had the recall done during the summer. So far, other than a couple of plastic hole plugs missing, I've had no problems.

I agree with Plus 3 Golfer. Highest voltage I've seen is 14.8 (based on the cheapest cigar-lighter-LCD-voltage-tester I could find on Amazon). I've yet to have a bulb burn out.

A couple of weeks after I had the transmission replaced on my 2013, I had a situation where the car wouldn't shift into gear. Dealer fixed it. I suspect that a clip or some such that fastens the shift cable to the transmission was broken or had come loose (or wasn't reattached properly in the first place). So. if the shift lever moves unusually easily, this might be the problem, in which case it's easily repaired My 2 cents.

Good to know. Thanks for the update.

Or foam insulation intended for water pipes. See Home Depot, Lowes, or local hardware store. Works great. :)

New one on me. I wonder if this is related to the recent door latch recall (16S30)? Was this recently done? Properly?

Agreed, The earlier CSP, 16B32, included the Fusion, so the C-Max is likely impacted as well. FYI, allowed repair time is less than an hour.

I don't think it should have cost anything to fix the problem (if the car is still under the 100k drive train warranty).

I should have said "start the engine." "Start the car" really doesn't quit fit any more. Cheers.

While the gist of Plus 3 Golfer's note is correct, technically the high voltage battery does start the car. But a good 12V battery is needed for that to occur.

I've had a similar experience and also wondered about 12V health. I think I'll have the 12V battery replaced before winter sets in. Also, fwiw, I think there's an illustration in the owners manual that show how to use the fob as a handle for the physical key and thus gain some leverage. But point taken re WD-40; I'll oil the locks soon. A dead battery would be bad enough without the added grief of a key broken off in the lock. Hope you and yours stay dry and safe.

I've not seen the problem. And they use lots of salt on the roads.

Should be easy. It's downhill all the way. :lol2:

Just to be clear, the front outlets only work when the car is on; they are turned off a few minutes after the car is turned off (like the radio). The outlet in the hatch is hot all the time.