Bill-N

Wouldn't that be nice.

Focus Active Squashed? https://www.reuters.com/article/us-autos-trade-ford/ford-kills-plan-to-sell-chinese-made-vehicle-in-the-united-states-idUSKCN1LG22S

Have your dealer verify that all vehicle software is update to date. There were several updates early on that targeted this, and other, issues (look in the maint. forum). Cheers.

Pull the fuses. It's the Audio Control Module (ACM) that's haywire. Not pulling the fuses risks a dead 12V battery. Trust me, I know. :-(

It could be just a bad connection at the battery itself. Try loosening the battery cables, wiggle them back and forth on the battery terminal, then re-tighten. I had it happen many years ago. Cheers. PS: You didn't leave the lights on. They are supposed to turn off automatically.

Sorry, I have no idea whether or not Ford will authorize replacement of the transmission.

My experience is similar; once in 70K miles.

Engine and transmission are installed/removed as a unit. That's typical on the vast majority of cars these days (probably over the last 25 years or so).

Absolutely. There are over two dozen computers in the C-Max that must turn on and off in the proper sequence. A dead 12V battery is very likely if one or more of the modules fails to shut down properly. The APIM and ACM are the usual suspects. Cheers.

There's a warranty extension, 12M02, that may apply. Have the dealer check. Here's a reference: https://ford.oemdtc.com/1745/12m02-warranty-extension-covering-accessory-protocol-interface-module-apim-software-and-hardware-2011-2014-ford-lincoln Cheers.

Speaking from recent experience, no need to pull any fuses. Just let the car sit unused for 2 or 3 days. 12V battery will die, taking the offending ACM with it. Jump start and all is well again. (What's the emoji for sarcasm?)

Why?

Sounds like the AC compressor to me. They make an awful clatter.

Mine are fine, too. Born 6/12, 70+k miles.

Only Mustang, Focus crossover to survive Ford car cuts https://www.detroitnews.com/story/business/autos/ford/2018/04/25/ford-cutting-car-lineup-earnings/34244867/

No. The touchscreen reset is needed only when the touch screen gets fouled up. So if it's working, leave it alone.

Don't forget to reset the battery monitor. I don't know how it's done, but others here do.

Just another data point: my cigarette lighter voltmeter showed 11.1V yesterday when I started the car. I leave the voltmeter plugged in all the time with no issues. Note the car was unlocked and in the garage, so this says nothing about minimum voltage needed to unlock.

What obob says is spot on. Get a 12v "cigar lighter" voltmeter to monitor the battery. Note, the two 12v outlets in front power off a few minutes after the car is turned off, and come back on when the door is opened. Use the under-hood connections to jump the car (as designed). IMHO, buying the car was not a bad idea. :) Cheers.

Since we're drifting a bit off topic, I've found bubble wrap held on with bungie cords (or the ever-popular duct tape) also works.

If the battery in the fob is original, then it should be replaced. I'm unaware of any fob-battery-low notification on the c-max.

I also had the recall done during the summer. So far, other than a couple of plastic hole plugs missing, I've had no problems.

I agree with Plus 3 Golfer. Highest voltage I've seen is 14.8 (based on the cheapest cigar-lighter-LCD-voltage-tester I could find on Amazon). I've yet to have a bulb burn out.

A couple of weeks after I had the transmission replaced on my 2013, I had a situation where the car wouldn't shift into gear. Dealer fixed it. I suspect that a clip or some such that fastens the shift cable to the transmission was broken or had come loose (or wasn't reattached properly in the first place). So. if the shift lever moves unusually easily, this might be the problem, in which case it's easily repaired My 2 cents.

Good to know. Thanks for the update.