Bill-N

Took the car to a body shop. They fixed the window for $100.00. Had to "strengthen" the track as it would flex and allow the window to pop out. Only occurred when the window was down as that put much more mass at the lower end of the track. Cheers.

I have just one thought. The "new" fob might in fact be pretty old. Try replacing the fob battery with one from someplace that sells a lot of batteries. Hope this helps.

Just to be clear, the first line above is not mine. I did say, "Per my owners manual ..."

So called CoP, aka coil on plug. Meaning, I guess, that each spark plug has its own ignition coil.

Thank you for this post. I just had this issue while on vacation and was very fortunate to find a young mechanic who was able to get the window up until I could get home. Now the real question: short of replacing the door, is there a fix for this issue? Did/will epoxy or similar work? How about a pop rivet? Can it be re-welded? Any and all suggestions appreciated. Cheers.

That's my best guess, also.

Learn how to pull the fuse. Otherwise you'll be faced with a dead battery and inoperative car. I know, it's a bummer, but at least there is a work-around.

Since there's no regen when the transmission is in neutral, you may want to try braking in neutral occasionally just to give the brakes a bit of work to do.

Many thanks for the great pictures.

I believe this is the first fuel pump issue reported here. Also, the estimate for parts and labor sounds about right these days. I guessing the fuel pump is inside the gas tank which means removing the tank, disconnecting a bunch of hoses and wires, etc..... I'll be interested to hear the results. Cheers.

Changing the transmission is a big deal as the entire engine-transmission combo has to be removed from underneath the car. No more using a come-along attached to a tree limb (sigh).

Make sure your jumper cables are accessible with the hatch closed; there's no way to open it with a dead battery.

77,800 and still in :wub2: with the car.

Personally, I'm not a fan of the dial instead of a "gear" shift. And way too many buttons on the steering wheel. But otherwise, I might be in the market for the plug-in version (if I live that long). Until then, I still :wub2: my ice storm sel. Oh, and I'd love to have the heads-up display. Cheers.

I believe you press the pedal to the floor and hold it.

It's a hill-holder of sorts. It keeps the car from rolling backward after the brakes are released but before the car is moving forward. My '53 Studebaker had one but without the 1.5 second release. Cheers.

I recently replaced the drivers-side turn signal bulb and it was indeed a PITA. Question for the group: how is the wiring harness connector removed from the headlight assembly? I couldn't see or feel any tab to depress.

Maybe something like this will help. https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-3305-7-1-2-Inch-Utility/dp/B000NPT67A

What mount? Engine mount or something else?

Excellent suggestion as I've had my share of 12V woes. I'll do a bit more research. Thank you.

Yesterday, the pump in my Tire Mobility Kit broke. The motor ran, but the compressor quit. So now I'm in the market for a replacement tire inflator (no need for the "fix-a-flat" goo). Any suggestions? I'm leaning toward this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Compact-Portable-Compressor-Carrying/dp/B074DDJFTH/ Also. FWIW, here are pics of the inside of the inflator:

The internal combustion engine (ICE) is started by one of the High Voltage electric motors.

FWIW, I came across this on Amazon. Posted here just for info; I have no experience with this or any other such product. As they say, YMMV. https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R2XFHX0ZR1210Q/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B000ARPVOI

The software you want is called Forscan. Google it. Cheers.

Just a quick thought; might you have enabled EV+ mode?