Bill-N

Changing the transmission is a big deal as the entire engine-transmission combo has to be removed from underneath the car. No more using a come-along attached to a tree limb (sigh).

Make sure your jumper cables are accessible with the hatch closed; there's no way to open it with a dead battery.

77,800 and still in :wub2: with the car.

Personally, I'm not a fan of the dial instead of a "gear" shift. And way too many buttons on the steering wheel. But otherwise, I might be in the market for the plug-in version (if I live that long). Until then, I still :wub2: my ice storm sel. Oh, and I'd love to have the heads-up display. Cheers.

I believe you press the pedal to the floor and hold it.

It's a hill-holder of sorts. It keeps the car from rolling backward after the brakes are released but before the car is moving forward. My '53 Studebaker had one but without the 1.5 second release. Cheers.

I recently replaced the drivers-side turn signal bulb and it was indeed a PITA. Question for the group: how is the wiring harness connector removed from the headlight assembly? I couldn't see or feel any tab to depress.

Maybe something like this will help. https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-3305-7-1-2-Inch-Utility/dp/B000NPT67A

What mount? Engine mount or something else?

Excellent suggestion as I've had my share of 12V woes. I'll do a bit more research. Thank you.

Yesterday, the pump in my Tire Mobility Kit broke. The motor ran, but the compressor quit. So now I'm in the market for a replacement tire inflator (no need for the "fix-a-flat" goo). Any suggestions? I'm leaning toward this: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Compact-Portable-Compressor-Carrying/dp/B074DDJFTH/ Also. FWIW, here are pics of the inside of the inflator:

The internal combustion engine (ICE) is started by one of the High Voltage electric motors.

FWIW, I came across this on Amazon. Posted here just for info; I have no experience with this or any other such product. As they say, YMMV. https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R2XFHX0ZR1210Q/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B000ARPVOI

The software you want is called Forscan. Google it. Cheers.

Just a quick thought; might you have enabled EV+ mode?

Wouldn't that be nice.

Focus Active Squashed? https://www.reuters.com/article/us-autos-trade-ford/ford-kills-plan-to-sell-chinese-made-vehicle-in-the-united-states-idUSKCN1LG22S

Have your dealer verify that all vehicle software is update to date. There were several updates early on that targeted this, and other, issues (look in the maint. forum). Cheers.

Pull the fuses. It's the Audio Control Module (ACM) that's haywire. Not pulling the fuses risks a dead 12V battery. Trust me, I know. :-(

It could be just a bad connection at the battery itself. Try loosening the battery cables, wiggle them back and forth on the battery terminal, then re-tighten. I had it happen many years ago. Cheers. PS: You didn't leave the lights on. They are supposed to turn off automatically.

Sorry, I have no idea whether or not Ford will authorize replacement of the transmission.

My experience is similar; once in 70K miles.

Engine and transmission are installed/removed as a unit. That's typical on the vast majority of cars these days (probably over the last 25 years or so).

Absolutely. There are over two dozen computers in the C-Max that must turn on and off in the proper sequence. A dead 12V battery is very likely if one or more of the modules fails to shut down properly. The APIM and ACM are the usual suspects. Cheers.

There's a warranty extension, 12M02, that may apply. Have the dealer check. Here's a reference: https://ford.oemdtc.com/1745/12m02-warranty-extension-covering-accessory-protocol-interface-module-apim-software-and-hardware-2011-2014-ford-lincoln Cheers.