Bill-N

Or foam insulation intended for water pipes. See Home Depot, Lowes, or local hardware store. Works great. :)

New one on me. I wonder if this is related to the recent door latch recall (16S30)? Was this recently done? Properly?

Agreed, The earlier CSP, 16B32, included the Fusion, so the C-Max is likely impacted as well. FYI, allowed repair time is less than an hour.

I don't think it should have cost anything to fix the problem (if the car is still under the 100k drive train warranty).

I should have said "start the engine." "Start the car" really doesn't quit fit any more. Cheers.

While the gist of Plus 3 Golfer's note is correct, technically the high voltage battery does start the car. But a good 12V battery is needed for that to occur.

I've had a similar experience and also wondered about 12V health. I think I'll have the 12V battery replaced before winter sets in. Also, fwiw, I think there's an illustration in the owners manual that show how to use the fob as a handle for the physical key and thus gain some leverage. But point taken re WD-40; I'll oil the locks soon. A dead battery would be bad enough without the added grief of a key broken off in the lock. Hope you and yours stay dry and safe.

I've not seen the problem. And they use lots of salt on the roads.

Should be easy. It's downhill all the way. :lol2:

Just to be clear, the front outlets only work when the car is on; they are turned off a few minutes after the car is turned off (like the radio). The outlet in the hatch is hot all the time.

I think it's a very nice feature. To paraphrase the manual, when the vehicle is in reverse (and the rear wiper is turned "off"), the rear wiper operates in concert with the front wiper.

It's my understanding that each and every fob has a unique "address". Thus the car can be programmed to impose certain restrictions based on the fob used. If I'm right, this means that if you buy a new fob, the car will need to be programmed, or "trained," to recognize the new fob. I wonder what the max number of fobs is and who does the "training"? The dealer probably.

No issues when I changed the battery in my fob (other than getting the fob open; what a pain).

Yes, they should. But apparently, they don't. :sad:

Thanks for the reminder. Mine was about empty.

The original service bulletin made note of the transmission problem in vehicles in taxi service (search the maintenance forum), so I doubt that high-speed driving was the cause. As I understand it, the replacement transmission uses an upgraded bearing(s), and to my knowledge, there have been no similar problems with the replacement transmission. If someone has had a problem with the replacement, please let the forum know. Cheers.

That's my experience also. But it does seem as though the time-to-turn-off is getting shorter; probably going to need a new 12V battery soon.

I hate to say this, but if taking a different car is an option, I would recommend you do so. I had two incidents (documented elsewhere in the forum) about a month after the transmission was replaced that required the vehicle to be towed to the dealer. Note, the problems were rather easily fixed and were related to the replacement process not the new transmission.

Most of the dead battery problems were resolved with various software updates. Make sure you have all of them installed. Also, 4 or 5 years on the 12v battery is about par for the course. See if you can persuade the dealer to replace it since repeated full-discharge events are really hard on the battery.

Sounds like a plan.

FWIW, received my parts-are-available letter a couple of weeks ago. Haven't had the fix yet, so no info as to how long it takes or what's involved.

http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/2017-ford-c-max-hybrid-test-review

You installed Sync 3 on your 2013 C-Max? How?

I had two problems caused by transmission replacement, both of which required the car being towed (and are documented elsewhere in the forums). First issue was the shift cable became detached. Second issue was the car becoming comatose after parking; it would neither turn on nor turn off! Both problems showed up within a couple of months following replacement and were promptly fixed. This was two years ago. New transmission has performed perfectly since then. So yes, there's cause for concern following major surgery, but nothing that can't be handled. Cheers.

Per my owners manual, 3rd printing (emphasis mine): The [110V] power point is not designed for electric devices such as:• Motor loads, such as vacuum cleaners, electric saws and other electricpower tools, compressor-driven refrigerators, etc.....