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Bill-N

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Everything posted by Bill-N

  1. CPS: very unlikely Air Filter: definitely not Personally, I wouldn't worry about it. Cheers.
  2. No. The liftgate has an electric latch. So don't store jumper cables back there.
  3. For the benefit of some of the newer members, there's a manual (i.e. non-Forscan) procedure for resetting the battery age. Search the forum for details. But Forscan is more fun ? Cheers.
  4. To be clear, technical service bulletin 14-0151 was issued in August, 2014.
  5. Try the simplest (and cheapest) first: injector cleaner. Cheers.
  6. My body shop fixed mine by simply sliding under the rear bumper and, I assume, reconnecting the sensor wires. Took all of about 90 seconds. The wires had apparently been disconnected as part of minor collision repair. Sorry, I don't know the extent of the underbody splash guards. Cheers.
  7. On the 2013 SEL's, there's a backup sensor connector under the rear bumper; check it. Also, loss of rear parking aid function, again on my 2013, was an indication of a tired 12V battery. But in this case there were no notifications, just the infamous "dead car" syndrome. Cheers, Bill
  8. Might want to have the brakes checked, A shoe/pad hanging up can cause such symptoms. Carefully feel each wheel (not the tire) after you've driven 4 or 5 miles. If one or more is hot, you've a brake issue. Cheers.
  9. "Some 2013-2016 Fusion, MKZ and 2013-2016 C-MAX vehicles ..." I wonder if this isn't a missprint. Normally one would expect: "Some 2013-2016 Fusion, MKZ, and C-MAX vehicles ..."
  10. Sounds like your car may have daytime running lights, a feature common to fleet and Canadian models. There's software called Forscan that can change this setting (as can the dealer, of course). Cheers.
  11. Description Labor Operation Labor Time Reprogram the RGTM 13B06B 0.2 Hour(s) per the TSB
  12. FWIW, I found one of the symptoms of a failing 12V battery is a failure of the backup warning beeper to work. This in addition to flakey radio, etc.
  13. Agreed. And I've been wondering if one couldn't make something that would simply extend the fuse to a more accessible place.
  14. FYI, there's also a ground connection under the hood. I believe someone posted a picture on the forum.
  15. Took the car to a body shop. They fixed the window for $100.00. Had to "strengthen" the track as it would flex and allow the window to pop out. Only occurred when the window was down as that put much more mass at the lower end of the track. Cheers.
  16. I have just one thought. The "new" fob might in fact be pretty old. Try replacing the fob battery with one from someplace that sells a lot of batteries. Hope this helps.
  17. Just to be clear, the first line above is not mine. I did say, "Per my owners manual ..."
  18. So called CoP, aka coil on plug. Meaning, I guess, that each spark plug has its own ignition coil.
  19. Thank you for this post. I just had this issue while on vacation and was very fortunate to find a young mechanic who was able to get the window up until I could get home. Now the real question: short of replacing the door, is there a fix for this issue? Did/will epoxy or similar work? How about a pop rivet? Can it be re-welded? Any and all suggestions appreciated. Cheers.
  20. Learn how to pull the fuse. Otherwise you'll be faced with a dead battery and inoperative car. I know, it's a bummer, but at least there is a work-around.
  21. Since there's no regen when the transmission is in neutral, you may want to try braking in neutral occasionally just to give the brakes a bit of work to do.
  22. Many thanks for the great pictures.
  23. I believe this is the first fuel pump issue reported here. Also, the estimate for parts and labor sounds about right these days. I guessing the fuel pump is inside the gas tank which means removing the tank, disconnecting a bunch of hoses and wires, etc..... I'll be interested to hear the results. Cheers.
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